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HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft


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I second that. Welcome back.

 

Mort

Current Build - Caldercraft Victory

 

Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William 

 

Waiting to be Launched -  Bluejacket Constitution

 

 

Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society

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And again, welcome back Stergios!  In case you didn't figure it out yet, hit the "More Reply Options" button.  I think the photos load the opposite way to the way they used to, so you want to load the first picture you want to see first.  She looking very nice by the way with the black painted.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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I place myshelf between two options. To leave the hull as it is, painted in mettalic black despite that glossy appearance, and to cover it later with a matt varnish (winsor & newton, galleria) wich in my tests gives a matt and cloudy overcoat finish....

I think I'll start the coppering and I'll see about the varnish during the progress of the copper application. I believe that the semi-glossy hull suits better the copper... 

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Hi Stergios, welcome to the coppering club!  Looks like a nice startm you've made.  If I may make a suggestion, I bought some CA glue debonder in case of emergencies, it does a really nice job of removing CA glue if you get the odd smear on the plates and is very easy to use.  It also does a nice job cleaning up finger tips!

 

I just added to my log answering your question on the cleaner.  After I finished the coppering I did use a metal cleaner for copper to clean off the fingerprints as these had already started to tarnish.  It was a simple procedure, dulled the copper a bit and returned it to the more pinkish colour.  I did this before posting my final picture so you can see the effect is not dramatic, but I took comfort knowing that it should oxidize more evenly which is the look that I want.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Reading the text on the tube, 'mirror finish' and 'gloss formula' will mean you will have a very shiny end result, maybe too shiny!  The product I used just cleaned the surface and did not give a polished finish as I doubt they would have looked that way in real life. Its probably just down to personal taste.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Reading the text on the tube, 'mirror finish' and 'gloss formula' will mean you will have a very shiny end result, maybe too shiny!  The product I used just cleaned the surface and did not give a polished finish as I doubt they would have looked that way in real life. Its probably just down to personal taste.

...any brand to suggest, Jason?

Thanks

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I'll post the info on my log when I get home, maybe it is also available in the great Hellenic Republic.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Reading the text on the tube, 'mirror finish' and 'gloss formula' will mean you will have a very shiny end result, maybe too shiny!  The product I used just cleaned the surface and did not give a polished finish as I doubt they would have looked that way in real life. Its probably just down to personal taste.

..that's the why I left the hull uncovered with any kind of varnish, for the moment.

I want to see whether the "something glossy like" admiralty's metallic black is in accordance with the polish and finish of the copper plates. After that I'll take my final decision on using the matt varnish for the paint and for the copper too (metal suitable varnish, here).

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Hi

I personally haven't applied any varnish to the coppering. I will be letting it tarnish naturally. It depends if you want a shiny copper hull or not.

 

Stergios, I'm taking the same approach as Jim, just leaving it to tarnish naturally.  You're making good progress, looking nice, especially the contrast with the wood and the black paint.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Leave out the varnish is my thoughts as well - you can never be sure you have covered it adequately anyhow - net result wil be some tarnished streaks.

Norman

 

 

Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck.

Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake.

Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon.

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Hello to everybody and many thanks.

Jason, that black paint was too glossy in my opinion.

I have applied a layer of matt Winsor & Newton varnish (1:2 in ratio to clear water (water for injection)).

I think the black paint now looks better especially on a period war ship.

Edited by Stergios
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Coppering of the hull is almost finished (I think...).

I'm trying hardly to manage and fit in shape the plates just below the waterline, is a very painfull story.

Have you tried any special tool for this procedure except the universal heavy cutter?

Thanks again.

 

PS: The alternative option is to create the so called "dressing-belt" with plates just to run neatly below the waterline....  

post-944-0-71764100-1362995128.jpg

post-944-0-35436600-1362995131_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stergios
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I think I will not like coppering, I mean I am lucky that my ship dont need one

looks good, but I cant imagine how hard it is

nice work stergios, more pics please

Current builds:

Hermione la Fayette - Artesnia latina 1:89

HMS Victory - Corel 1:98

 

Completed builds:

San Juan Nepomuceno - Artesnia latina 1:90

San Francisco II - Artesnia latina 1:90

Victory cross section - Corel 1:98

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Any additional suggestion on waht method/toll to use to trim neatly these minor protruding edges?Thanks again.

I used a pair of fine scissors to cut the plates to shape. Any protrusions I used a flat blade needle file and small careful strokes....

Jim
-----
Current builds:

HMS Snake
HMS Hood
Mechanical Solar System

Completed builds:

HMS Ballahoo

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Same as Jim.  I tried to keep the overlap to a minimum, and found that if you lay the plate in place and simply use a fine marker pen to draw the profile,a dn cutting with scissors, you can get a pretty good initial fit with little effort.  Definitely second Jim's comments, use gentle strokes once the plate is glued as it doesn't take much to pop one off - minimizing the amount you need to remove in this way really helps.  Once you are very close, you can even use fine sandpaper to get a smoother edge if necessary.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Your Snake is looking very good. The coppering is coming along nicely as well. Have you considered using a dremel with a high speed metal cutting disk to cut the extra copper off?

Thanks,

 

Patrick

 

YouTube Channel for fun: Patrick's Scale Studio

Finished: Model Shipways US Brig Niagara

Current: I Love Kit USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54

 

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday"

- John Wayne

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I found it was easy enough with the soft copper to roll a slight edge over the timber at then the final plate hides that ccut edge - produces a more realistic seam then.

Norman

 

 

Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck.

Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake.

Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon.

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Thank you all, so much

I do appreciate your everyday's help during my "coppering" steps.

Finally I've found that using a good pair of scissors and a flat diamond file is the best way (to me) to handle the rest of copper tiles....

Pics to follow...

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