Jump to content

HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794


Recommended Posts

Happy New Year t you too mate.

 

Very (VERY) nice work on those channels, brackets and guns Jason.  Those are very neatly executed brackets and look just right.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

OC, Carl, Rob, Thomas, Mike, Dave, Pat and all the likes...definitely helps keeping one moving forward!

 

Finally, have all the guns in position an the breeching ropes in place.  Amazingly time consuming, no more need be said, and glad its behind me.  I did allow myself the small concession of using a ringbolt for the less visible guns, and went with a ringbolt and ring for those visible in the waist area.  Despite the latter being more 'correct', the jury is still out on whether the results totally warrant it at this scale as the eyebolts only version seems acceptable to my eye (comparison photo below).   As usual, dilute PVA was used to help keep the breech ropes in position and to try give them a sense of weight.  Photos seem to call attention to all the little dings and dents that seem unavoidable and thankfully not really noticeable during normal viewing.

 

A very simple jig was used to help keep lengths consistent.  When using rings, I found that opening up a ringbolt using a small metal point and reclosing was easier, faster and predictable than opening up the ring itself.

 

IMG_2161.thumb.JPG.01c5e241d35b2ba5d1864c9a80a73705.JPGIMG_2159.thumb.JPG.d43acac6ccb4d913e85d7f3b4f02515a.JPGIMG_2168.thumb.JPG.148b785ce9010d570d6d54b4877c4fda.JPGIMG_2170.thumb.JPG.e42ae82e3d9eb83059da557319f51c2f.JPGIMG_2176.thumb.JPG.0bce29abf3e1692d75bd6b5b92b6f99a.JPGIMG_2174.thumb.JPG.b61063aa4819a809849a79e25c299900.JPGIMG_2173.thumb.JPG.c943e923f1e2fc4dd022b559633d59d3.JPG

IMG_2167.JPG

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is seriously nice work Jason; she is looking good with her 'teeth' added.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Stunning work Jason!

I really like your attention to details. Not to mention how good she looks fully armed !

Simon

 

Current build:

Royal Yacht, Duchess of Kingston by Vanguard Models

Mercury by Victory Models - scale 1:64 - (99% scratchbuild) - on hold

 

Finished: Bluenose by Amati - scale 1:100

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wonderful work, Jason! And your attention to detail is amazing. It is a rare treat to see this kind of detail on the trunnion mountings!

 

Thomas

Current Built:   Model Shipways  Syren  (US Brig 1803)

 

Last Built:        Anfora (kit bashed)  Ictineo II  (1st steam powered submarine 1864)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone for continued interest, kind comments.and likes...

 

Block Stropping:

I've started stropping blocks for the hauling tackles.  I'm opting for a double-single block combination, although I've read that doubles were only used on 32lb'ers.  What I think this really means is that the tackle consisted of 2 double blocks.  For a mid-range 18lb'er, a double-single seems appropriate and makes engineering sense.

 

This seems yet another painfully slow repetitive process!  With this progressing in the background, will be intersperse with other sundry items.  Whilst not too difficult once the approach has been proven, clumsiness never quite seems to diminish.  Overall, happy with the way these turned out which is really testament to the fantastic blocks that Syren produces.  The picture below is the result of 3 solid evenings work....sufficient for the waist guns.

  1. Hooks were threaded with 0.3mm Syren line, and secured using 4 alternating overhand loops using tan Uni-thread (barely visible given its so close in color, but is what was also used for the breech rope seizing).  For the 1/8" double block, the strop was twisted through 90 degrees while securing to ensure the appropriate alignment with the block.
  2. GS-Hypo was applied and left to dry before trimming off excess Uni-thread
  3. Line held in position around the block and then secured with a simple overhand loop
  4. Dilute PVA applied to the overhand loop and the stropping around the block.  Was very liberal with this as it is not visible when dry, and anything that provides additional security seems silly to ignore.
  5. Trim excess stropping line once PVA has dried

IMG_2179.thumb.JPG.02b23f4cb27d56a1a1d30cbd83a85500.JPGIMG_2178.thumb.JPG.c8f174fee4e553a218502ece216336c6.JPG

 

Waist Beams:

First off, a correction needed to be made to the interior bulkhead to correct the position of the beam at the front of the main mast.  The position of these had been taken literally from the plans very early in the build and it was clear that they are not in the appropriate position relative to the mainmast.

 

Secondly, needed to finally decide how to deal with the supplied walnut beams.  These have a pretty rough grain and require a lot of cleanup to get nice smooth curves after removing from the sheet.  Following the scheme shown on the contemporary models (painted red with upper natural face of boxwood), thin strips of overwide boxwood strips were liberally glued to the top of the beam,  gradually sanded back and painted when flush.  The lamination is virtually undetectable, and it also helps ensure the walnut grain is minimised.  Filler can be used in any stubborn imperfections.  Although a bit of a cheat, I just couldn't face cutting my own from box, and quite honestly, I doubt I could get satisfactory results with tools at my disposal.

 

IMG_2180.thumb.JPG.a29239d7cf57c023fa747d59f04b5123.JPGIMG_2177.thumb.JPG.501d839d213b98e527233e98a56f3c8c.JPGIMG_2181.thumb.JPG.89f67ffddba9c6effb7c947acef83a37.JPG

 

Sub-Deck alterations:

Increasing the thickness of the beams also has the benefit that the top of the beams are flush with the sub-deck.  Hoping this means that the gang boards can now be planked with the sub-deck providing a solid base, but remaining invisible from normal viewing angles.  Slots were cut into the sub-deck to accommodate the laminated top surface.  Picture hopefully self explanatory.

 

In position, the next required adjustment is revealed.  The waist opening in the sub-deck has perfectly parallel sides.  After studying various deck plans, it appears more appropriate for the gangboards to follow the line of hull (i.e. planks are constant width throughout their length).  The approximate width of the gang boards were estimated from the AOTS plans and transferred to the deck.  The hashed area indicates what will need to be remove.  In actuality, more will be removed to set it back from the actual edge of the planking proper.

 

Back to stropping more blocks....

 

IMG_2182.thumb.JPG.6952a4a6826518d8c89b24886a2da3f7.JPG

Edited by Beef Wellington

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good start there Jason; your officer appears to be keeping a watchful eye to ensure these do not go 'adrift' :)

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Super work  jason.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone for the very kind words and likes....we've reached another "phone a friend" moment to assist with my indecision:

 

Hauling Tackle rethink:

A previously described, looking to assemble hauling tackles off the ship.  Initially planned to use 0.3mm Syren line for the block stropping and 0.2mm for the tackle fall to get a little size contrast.  While initially happy with the result, after making some of these up and staring at them I can't help but feel the 0.2mm is undersized.  A tackle was made up with 0.3mm line to experiment, this is a little harder to work with the frapping but think a suitably repeatable processes is possible after experimentation.  Once made, they are very easy to hook into place, and seem to sit nicely even without dilute PVA.

 

So, which size do you think looks most appropriate?  While still a little undecided, I'm now leaning toward the 0.3mm, and suspect 0.25mm (if available) would be spot on!

 

After rigging the tackles and mounted in the serving machine, the frapping then becomes more manageable.  The final turn is simply fed through the previous turn and is held in place by friction quite securely.

 

IMG_2185.thumb.JPG.40d0aa23262aa97f374a9e81f2089494.JPG

 

The comparisons:  The 0.2mm tackle fall below:

IMG_2188.thumb.JPG.2e97f54403ec67deaf0e9b91b0781d03.JPG

 

The comparisons:  The 0.3mm tackle fall below (the line has not been trimmed yet)

IMG_2189.thumb.JPG.f865431e271780ae1ca5fd5107fa5e0f.JPG

 

And side by side (0.3mm on the left, 0.2mm on the right)

IMG_2187.thumb.JPG.ddfe4b704cb09daf00320f0cffe9d033.JPG

Edited by Beef Wellington

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wonderful job on this gun Jason ! I also prefer the 0.3mm line version that fits better with the breeching ropes.

Thank You for sharing your beautiful work.

Jean-Paul

 

'You are not carving a bear with a chain saw here folks',

Chuck Passaro, ´Queen Anne Style Barge´ manual of instructions

 

Current builds :

 

Finished build :

 

Next on list :

  • Santa Maria boat - Korabel (Ukraine) - 1:24
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice work Jason, I prefer the 0.3mm as well.

 

Just noticed how nice the trunnion capping pieces are on the carriages.  Did you make these?  If not where did you get them?

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all for the speedy replies.  Going to go down the 0.3mm route.   After making the post I realized that it was the time already invested that was giving me pause.  After hearing your opinions, the demons have been purged.

 

Pat - The cap squares are the PE parts provided in the kit, they seem to work quite well.  These were rather fiddly to introduce the curvature, and I wasn't able to quite get the hard angle it ideally should because of  the thickness. but think they are passable at viewing distance.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Hi all,

 

Well finally been able to get some things done that tangibly move things forward.  The area around the mainmast is one of the more interesting and complex areas to get situated.  All of these items were scratchbuilt, which of course resulted in the usual re-does as the geometry is critical to get right as the pump axel and cranks need to align with minimal tolerances.

 

Capstan and aft coamings now glued into position, the deck beam needs to be modified to allow the capstan to be positioned appropriately.

IMG_2246.thumb.JPG.0e2512760db52ea4ed0942f0944da344.JPGIMG_2252.thumb.JPG.39dd0ce8a99b990f38ecbd61c369841a.JPG

 

Little bit of rework on the pumps, the simulated leather washer I had previously painted kept jumping out at me and was a little too 'in your face'.  Stripped this off and went with what seems to be a more traditional modeling approach to use layer of wood to simulate the gasket and plug. Here they are in final position.

IMG_2244.thumb.JPG.aa115e075777f7ce5b0fdfb3c0d1c0a8.JPG

 

The main jeer bitts were then positioned first once the pumps were in place to finalise the dimensions of the middle pump brakes.  The kit supplies some PE for these, but knew that these would never be satisfactory and have been planning to make my own.  The supplied wire is around 0.8mm, so 1mm square styrene sections were drilled and cut to give a little more of an authentic look to the winches.  To say this process is delicate and frustrating is an understatement - once drilled, the there is barely any structural strength to the styrene around the hole.  The aft winches were made in one piece which allowed them to be aligned relatively easily and secured using thin CA which worked quite well.  Once glued, the styrene was then gently filed to give a hint of the actual shape.

IMG_2247.thumb.JPG.951fb849ab43e431298714be70dbe454.JPG

 

Rhodings were made out of boxwood and painted, to my eye this gave a little better scale look.  The stanchions had been made previously, and notches cut into the deck beam to allow these to be secured.

IMG_2251.thumb.JPG.32444e3c338454bd6d5bd8d4dc762446.JPGIMG_2250.thumb.JPG.78a0dbb5301235deb5c505b44a74c2ee.JPG

 

The stanchions were finalized and installed...making the second curved bracing element to be the same as the first took a lot longer than expected.

IMG_2242.thumb.JPG.9685f5b0112710c1b19c13406906028b.JPG

 

The layout of the main topsail sheet bitts dictates that the winches need to made separately reflecting actual practice.  These longer winches proved much more challenging than the shorter ones, and many were attempted before 2 acceptable ones were completed.

IMG_2253.thumb.JPG.ce6569075d9a1b76ca283a77becfbda9.JPGIMG_2254.thumb.JPG.82a04c22f1c24114bd686a61228fad54.JPG

 

Elm tree pumps were shaped from boxwood stock, and the PE fittings came from an extra set I found left over from my Snake build.  These were fun items to make up, but will not be finally fixed just yet as they are very delicate.

IMG_2249.thumb.JPG.2e1e9c43c1515e73ad6c672057525632.JPG

 

Overall shots with everything in place shows just how crowed this area really is.  Overall, very happy with how this ultimately turned out.  The main topsheet bitts align underneath the deck beam at the forward end of the quarterdeck.

IMG_2255.thumb.JPG.4da179f727cfae852a9d3013b7937c70.JPGIMG_2256.thumb.JPG.1dd8286139778d19db1289d369fac291.JPGIMG_2257.thumb.JPG.ced65be4c9d22325f563b66b6c306e66.JPGIMG_2259.thumb.JPG.b11bac23870077b0b625307e57e8d7cf.JPG

 

Overlaying scaled copy from AOTS, one can get a good sense for the reason for the scuttles in the quarterdeck which would have been necessary to be able to remove the various pump shafts.  I'm considering modding the quarterdeck to allow these scuttles to be left open to allow the pump mechanisms to be better seen.

IMG_2258.thumb.JPG.87c5d73332604f7bfc76c7f44142e024.JPG

 

Edited by Beef Wellington

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice BW; extremely well executed workmanship.  I like your idea of leaving the scuttles open as that is some nice detail to view (if not obscured by the rigging etc when you add it?)

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lovely to see an update from you, stunning work

Its all part of Kev's journey, bit like going to the dark side, but with the lights on
 

All the best

Kevin :omg:


SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS.
KEEP IT REAL!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On the build table

HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Kevin - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Feb 2023 

 

 

HMHS Britannic by Kevin 

SD 14  - Marcle Models - 1/70 - March 2022 -  Bluebell - Flower Class - Revel - 1/72   U552 German U Boat - Trumpeter - 1/48  Amerigo Vespucci     1/84 - Panart-   HMS Enterprise  -CAF -  1/48     

Finished     

St-Nectan-Mountfleet-models-steam-trawler-1/32 - Completed June 2020

HMS Victory - Caldercraft/Jotika - 1/72 - Finished   Dorade renamed Dora by Kevin - Amati - 1/20 - Completed March 2021 

Stage Coach 1848 - Artesania Latina - 1/10 -Finished Lady Eleanor by Kevin - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1/64 - Fifie fishing boat

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wonderful work. Always a pleasure to follow the progress of the project. Inspiring and motivating ! Thank you

Jean-Paul

 

'You are not carving a bear with a chain saw here folks',

Chuck Passaro, ´Queen Anne Style Barge´ manual of instructions

 

Current builds :

 

Finished build :

 

Next on list :

  • Santa Maria boat - Korabel (Ukraine) - 1:24
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Pat, Carl, Kevin, Jean-Paul and 'the likes' for not forgetting me! 

 

Update on a modification made right back at the start of the build.  I had initially planned to add a bowsprit step to achieve 2 things: a little more 'interest' on for the upper deck for those peeking through gun ports and a more robust engineering solution to the attachment of the bowsprit.  Both of these are still valid, but a third reason has also just become apparent to make me very glad I decided to mod this.  Bottom line, I can't quite see myself moving forward and rigging 'Jason' at this point, which would still be a long way off if past progress is any indication.  However, I would like to leave that option open for the future, and this allows me keep moving forward without making any sort of final decision.

 

Some angled 'wedges' were added to the first deck frame to match the angle of the bowsprit step which was then glued into place.  A pin was then inserted at the center position of the bowsprit position.  Maybe went overboard on securing this, but don' think you can be too careful, it was pinned at the bottom, PVA glue secured to the beam, and then pinned into the beam.  While positioning all this it was important to keep checking the clearance over the figurehead, I'd worked through this already when making the original modification and luckily no further complications arose.

 

IMG_2261.thumb.JPG.20f325aadd2453d2b69bdd7930204b61.JPGIMG_2269.thumb.JPG.ff1f3d2b08bf47d88af058cff72c20a6.JPGIMG_2267.thumb.JPG.f930b52098cd1638517f6c301a603114.JPG

 

A hole can then simply be drilled into the end of the bowsprit, and once the aft end is appropriately angled, this sits very snuggly and securely even without glue.  The benefit is that this is removable and replaceable even with the fo'c'sl deck in place.  I've made up a 'stub' that will probably be used for now, and also a dowel that can be made into a bowsprit should I also go in that direction.  The fore bits are also now glued in position with a few other details which will likely be lost when the fo'c'sl goes on, but its fun to experiment.IMG_2265.thumb.JPG.84caed3d6445514d12989e4ca544a858.JPGIMG_2266.thumb.JPG.983f87af1b8810f40136233993c2160e.JPG

 

In other news, there was some months ago an addition to the Wellington family, her name is Mazie, and shes a loveable 14 week old 'Whoodle' (Wheaton terrier/poodle mix).  While she has many particular skills, dockyard assistance is not currently one of them...

IMG_2268.thumb.JPG.ca5d428a2378ec6fac04f0bcc270917b.JPG

Edited by Beef Wellington

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well build Jason,

love that model....

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Link to comment
Share on other sites

great job. very very impressive.

 

mort

Current Build - Caldercraft Victory

 

Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William 

 

Waiting to be Launched -  Bluejacket Constitution

 

 

Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks everyone, need to record a few things before moving on too much further:

 

Tackles:

Boy, these blighters take time.  I will definitely not be fully rigging each gun, but will look to rig those fall into possibly the 'noticeable in the background' category.  Here's the method I found works best for me.  Apologies for the photos, an iPhone is really not the best at trying to photograph tiny objects suspended in the air.

 

A hook was threaded with 0.3mm Syren line and some overhand knots tied to seize this securely.  Drop of GS Hypo cement to keep secure before trimming excess.  The long ends are then placed around the block and loose overhand knot tied.

 

IMG_2280.thumb.JPG.cfb9d44c2c0e8e306fdb7aae2e0b0875.JPG

 

A length of line for the tackle fall is then inserted into the loop and then threaded back through itself as for a false splice.

IMG_2281.thumb.JPG.9aeb2d984ab616ce45478fe29eb75e9d.JPG

 

Pulling the overhand know tight around the block, and simultaneously tightening the false splice secures the knot around the block.  Another small drop of GS Hypo cement on the false splice helps keep this secure, and placing the end of the stropping line into 'helping hands' helps keep the knot tight while the cement dries.

IMG_2282.thumb.JPG.e41ec2431549c0488baa4ab3595094ea.JPG

 

Slightly weighting the tackle fall line (in this case with tweezers) allows the alignment if the block to be tweaked before the cement sets fully.  Thin thread can then be seized around the splice to secure it, I find alternating overhand knots gives a pretty secure and easy result.  Once more, another drop of GS Hypo on the seizing helps ensure this doesn't unravel once trimmed.

IMG_2283.thumb.JPG.6991493cd387d0bc193a7ad89fc4a5d4.JPGIMG_2284.thumb.JPG.53d7f8ae29e53484860f2e1caa239b9c.JPG

 

IMG_2279.thumb.JPG.f4fdf597e24b1868b18469177d8e96e5.JPG

 

Once completed, I use some dilute PVA glue on the stropping prior to trimming off any excess as some additional insurance as it is a frustrating experience for these to break when frapping.  The tackle falls were then fed through the previously stropped double blocks, and then frapped on the service machine as per a previous post.  The last turn was secured simply by feeding back through the prior turn and pulling taught.  The completed tackle can then be placed where needed and some dilute PVA applied again to the whole tackle - special attention was paid to ensuring the tackle fed through the frapping was secured with glue.  The entire tackle can then be removed once dry and the excess line trimmed.  Its a simple matter to hook these back into position.  Et voila!

 

IMG_2278.thumb.JPG.dfede56e1ed13a13bb61d3a0d78a6616.JPG

 

Stove:

The stove has also been given a little more TLC and is now glued into position.  Handles for the boilers were added, as well as rails which were made from brass rod.  The rails were the treated with some JAX 'Brown' to darken it a little a keep it in keeping with the colour of the copper still.  As described in a previous post, I've followed TFFM simulating wooden battens under the custom base plate rather than simulating tiles, they would not been seen in any event once the main riding bitts are in place.  Temporarily putting the fo'c'sl deck in place shows that much of this will be obscured even if the various gratings are made removeable which I plan to do.

 

IMG_2287.thumb.JPG.b14b4309e8ba1fa2bba39d24c969a689.JPGIMG_2288.thumb.JPG.8daa58380288c77429771b1440fd06ce.JPG

 

In closing, a quick summary of the 3D printed stove.  With a little work I'm happy with the way this turned out.  Comparison to the kit supplied version shows the dimensions to be a little more authentic, and the detailing is much more pleasing than the approximations on the supplied white metal parts.  To be fair, no work was done to pretty this up, but I'd certainly recommend this as a simple 'upgrade'.

 

IMG_2285.thumb.JPG.fb205c215b024c85a9e0853df9b299a5.JPGIMG_2286.thumb.JPG.9d9b13d4841885b91a1a8db02be433ff.JPG

 

 

 

Edited by Beef Wellington

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spectacular work Jason; very nicely presented tackle and the stoves are a work of art!

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

great job. a quick thought. why not cut away part of quarter deck and fore castle? don't plank them entirely, partially. it's a pity to cover/hide such nice work. you can even go as far as not mounting any boats mid ship.  build them and mount them on the display base along side or being towed astern.

 

any way keep up the great work.

 

mort

Current Build - Caldercraft Victory

 

Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William 

 

Waiting to be Launched -  Bluejacket Constitution

 

 

Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...