Jump to content

HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794


Recommended Posts

Hi Jason

Just re-found this log and seems I posted on it way back in 2014 when you found a bowed frame. After a long hibernation from MSW, I return to find a stunning outcome to date. Absolutely superb model making - so very crisp and well detailed. No part of my Fly model would stand that level of macro photography and very few other kit models here would either. It looks 1:1. Thanks for sharing! I'll keep up from now on.

 

A quick question - what diameter is your anchor cable? I'm guessing it is Syren rope? The answer may already be in your log...

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Alistair - yes, it is the Syren rope, and from memory it was the largest diameter Chuck produces which seemed to fit the bill nicely.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

The Ekeing and Cathead supporter:

 

The Ekeing is a detail as presented in the kit that consists of a simplified approach consisting of cat head supporter and ubiquitous white metal moldings.  I was determined to make this as prototypical as I could as shown on the plans.  Studying numerous contemporary models, this is a detail that seems to vary quite a lot, and I'm unsure whether this varied significantly from ship to ship, or whether the model builders took their own simplified approaches.   The following photos of Minerva helped a lot in visualizing this complex shape consistent with the original plans (photos are my own taken at the Rogers Collection).IMG_1598.thumb.JPG.adef156cba17f2ad06ba1a3750d765da.JPGIMG_1599.thumb.JPG.15a841328d0c685747e048cb46e08249.JPG

This was a very humbling experience and definitely one of the more challenging pieces to make, requiring many hours of fiddling and sanding.  In short (!) , the Eking and cathead supporter needs to meet the following criteria:

 

  • Narrow from 3mm to approx 2mm at the middle rail to butt into it cleanly
  • Follow the curve of the hull
  • Extend the graceful curve of the middle rail up to the cathead when viewed from the side
  • Be positioned such that the cathead sits snuggly against the top of the main rail, and is perpendicular to the hull
  • Follow a smooth curve outboard from the cathead to the lower rail, the ekeing curving forward almost immediately below the cathead
  • Pass just upward of the outboard hawse hole, but cross the inner....(differing from Minerva above)

 

I had a couple of abortive attempts which while failures, were very helpful in helping me understand the approach described in TFFM Vol 2.   The best piece of advice here is focus on one curved face at a time.  A cardboard template was made to approximate the profile (this was initially estimated using the spare metal molding strips which work well for this).   (Note:  In the photos below, the various rails have been cut out to allow placement of the final rail.  (When the template was made this had not been done which made this a little more challenging and subject to approximation)

IMG_3378.thumb.JPG.0085421f1a9bddd63d13a2b6cea75e40.JPG

The profile of the hull at the bow was taken using a profile gauge and transferred to block of balsa.  The ekeing template was transferred to some 5mm pear sheet and cut out leaving quite a bit of excess.   The hull profile was then introduced onto the inward face.  The shaped balsa block helped a lot in this exercise to allow frequent validation.

IMG_3385.thumb.JPG.e9610e0d37150c9c65a998daf9553be5.JPGIMG_3371.thumb.JPG.b22f76fa2c9b30ec963ad6b8d7c054ce.JPG

Once the inner profile had been finalised, the card template could be used to fine tune the shape.  This has to be transferred onto the curved surface that will sit against the hull, and it important to remember that the profile on the outboard face will be different because the shape will follow perpendicular to the interior face (i.e. the hull).  Some excess was still left here to allow additional fine tuning.

IMG_3372.thumb.JPG.c2ffb2208439b159f02b6f3cdd939bb5.JPG

The top of the profile was then thickened using some more 5mm pear, and the cathead supporters roughly shaped and glued into place.  The cathead supporters were attached perpendicular to interior face, not the exterior face.  This rough structure can then be further fine tuned, again using the template on the inner surface and ensuring that the top and bottom face are perpendicular to this along its length.  Following the advice in TFFM, The sternmost face was worked first, and once finalized, the inside curve was worked using the outside as a guide.  Once these had been completed, the outboard curve following the underside of the cathead supporter was introduced.

 

The lower version shown below still required a lot of fine tuning on the model.

IMG_3376.thumb.JPG.53704302dc74440300682b7c23d07db3.JPG

Once happy with the shape, the position on the model could be determined, and the decorative rails cut to allow the ekeing to sit flush against the hull.  This was definitely a little nerve wracking and will require a little touch up when all is said and done.  (The outer surface profiling was not introduced until after this work had all been done and position finalised - these still require some finishing as these photos embarrassingly highlight...)  The end of the ekeing also needed to have the shape of the hawse hole introduced onto its lower edge to open that up.IMG_3384.thumb.JPG.1b8a4881119bd3d8df719191eab589ab.JPGTo allow the position to be determined, the catheads also needed to be madeup.  The "cathead" decorations on the end was made from polymeric clay and followed the very nice original example originally on Trincomalee and other contemporary models - they look a little more acceptable at a distance!  Not much else to comment on other than the dimensions and decoration were estimated from the original plans and inspired by contemporary models.  These will get further attention in due course.  The upper rail is still just pinned in place and will require the top to be shaped prior to final installation.

IMG_3382.thumb.JPG.8dfb52d0ef4cd78a42c205502db9fb47.JPGIMG_3381.thumb.JPG.e78e6e75907a895a0730d667ae4a7c01.JPGIMG_3383.thumb.JPG.6f589137d01e7265287951f0851dbc45.JPG

Overall, I'm very pleased with how this came together, the various lines seem to flow quite nicely when viewed from the side which was a goal entering into this. The plansheer, ekeing, catheads and upper rail are all still dry-fit at this stage....but think I can move forward with more confidence.IMG_3380.thumb.JPG.5278b80ea8810ac93e352aeee139dbdc.JPG

 

Edited by Beef Wellington

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Truly inspiring work - totally incredible in fact. I am in awe. Can't imagine getting there but a joy to see unfold here.

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well done Jason, a truly wonderful looking HMS Jason and awe inspiring workmanship and it makes me feel that I must try harder. Thank you for sharing this build with us and very grateful for your help in what is not the easiest of builds. I look forward to  seeing your next project.

Edited by DaveBaxt

Completed     St Canute Billings            Dec 2020

Completed    HMS Bounty Amati          May 2021 Finished

Currently building HM Bark Endeavour  

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, this is an epic build Jason!  Really amazing work.  👏

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Amazing work Jason and a great to see your thoughts behind the process

David

David

 

Previous Builds

HM Cutter Hunter Mamoli 1:74

Baltic Ketch Scotland - Corel 1:64

HMS Fly - Swan Class ship sloop - Victory models 1:64

HMS Diana - Artois Class Heavy Frigate - Caldercraft - 1:64

 

Current Build

HM Cutter Trial 1790 Vanguard Models 1:64

18th Century Merchantman Half Hull - NRG-1:48 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...
Posted (edited)

Its scary to note that my last update was 9 months ago, much has dragged me away from keeping current with other's builds on this wonderful site, and making progress myself.  While not much, this brings me up to date.

 

Head Grating:

This caused much pondering!  Like everything, this had to be scratch built. and wasn't quite sure whether I could pull of the gracefully curved gratings that grace many period models.  In the end, this turned out to be a highly enjoyable little project.  The main framing elements were built following the layout and dimensions of previously assembled components.  The outside angled edge follows the curve of the main headrail, and the inside a foreshortened version.  No real secret other than use of lots of templates and continual trial fitting.  The larger framing elements were joined with a simple box joint for strength, the battens were individually shaped and glued end on.  Once completed, the front of the seats of ease were attached to simplify final installation.

IMG_3658_0.thumb.jpg.b51264fd5e27262a7794c8d9cda786e9.jpgIMG_3670.thumb.jpg.40cf2527762a287ad9eac48b2408508f.jpg

Catheads, fo'c'sl plansheer and breasthook:

With the gratings finalised, it was possible to install the catheads with some confidence.  The breasthook was cut following dimension estimates from contemporary models (as much as possible) Prior to that however, the fo'c'sl plansheer was finalised, which required the underside where the catheads are located to be slightly angled to allow for the upward slope of the cathead given the overlap of the plansheer, and to ensure it sits flat.

IMG_3667.thumb.jpg.6585a7fc2e8ebe92a5743021333a4bd4.jpgIMG_3668.thumb.jpg.52dec1c70709646bfebc81a4ce9fda0b.jpg

Timberheads:

It was necessary t get my head around how I was going shape the timberheads, and figure out what was possible, so that I could both get some practice in shaping these and maximise the chance that these could be kept consistent and of an acceptable appearance.  I did not want to have to redo the head rails as these had taken many hours to make.  After some experimentation, the following approach seemed to provide the most consistent results for me.  2x5mm pear was used.

 

From left to right:

  1. Preventer cuts were carefully made using a jig and #12 Exacto blade
  2. The edges were cut back gently to roughly preform the shape.  I found the wood surface had a tendency to break off even with care so there were losses.  Wipe on poly was applied at the cuts at this stage to both prove better visibility for further shaping, and also to harden the edges that had been formed
  3. The sloped  faces were further refined, again carefully using a #12 Exacto blade, sanding sticks and microfiles.  The top is deliberately made a little overlong as it makes shaping easier
  4. The top is reduced to final dimension...
  5. The overall height is reduced to final dimensions (in this case 10mm)

IMG_3663_0.thumb.jpg.8f00ce73f24341bcaaf25709c78c376e.jpgFinalisation and installation of the main rail and grating:

The main rail could now be finally dimension and shaped.  As identified in TFFM, it did prove necessary to shape for rear outside profile to ensure it fits nicely to the cathead.  I couldn't find much in the way of detail here, but the AOTS Diana book shows a slight wedge of wood sitting between the hull and the head rail.  I decided to add two small wedges to ensure the headrail is fully secured to the hull.  The plansheer also had to be nicked to allow it to sit properly.

IMG_3665.thumb.jpg.b7102f294c8e6b59dcfba7391882212e.jpgIMG_3666.thumb.jpg.90b404fc36dbb30b7a4b73b548bac641.jpg

And with everything finally installed...I am greatly relieved and pleased with the way this has turned out as this proved to be a most challenging, but ultimately satisfying, adventure.  The fore seats of ease have been made up and will ultimate slot into the grating, but these will not be installed until the placement of the boomkins is determined as everything is very tight in this small area.

IMG_3672.thumb.jpg.9314fc8846f0aa1e68e143c09d0a13de.jpgIMG_3673.thumb.jpg.fd9fa15b9a0af3423ea244aa8336b35c.jpgIMG_3674.thumb.jpg.b989c61bf63e5d1c64cb7053809476f0.jpgIMG_3675.thumb.jpg.83658b7434547225146433087ef2206b.jpgIMG_3676.thumb.jpg.05fcb38823423dfe3253dee32bc195ea.jpgIMG_3677.thumb.jpg.9063aab661cc94c3cb9ffb71ca390f6c.jpgIMG_3678.thumb.jpg.b12fc9e617fa552d1727ad877af16313.jpg

Edited by Beef Wellington

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great to see this update Jason; your build continues to impress.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Jason, It's great to see you back. I know I am not alone in thinking you've not only provided a fantistic build log, but also a beautiful looking ship. Having read through every build, saving photos and taking notes over the last few weeks, I think I confused myself and hadn't realised you hadn't added the head gratings and thought you had finnished. I am really wishing I had another 20 years of model making ahead of me to get anywhere near the standard you have achieved. She is truly a work of art and am looking forward to the upcoming installments. As you are moving forwards I seem to be going in reverse but am looking forward to hopefully learning from your log once I start progressing in the right direction. She is truly a beauty. Well done.

David.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Absolutely stunning Jason. It's good to see you back in the shipyard.

 

David

David

 

Previous Builds

HM Cutter Hunter Mamoli 1:74

Baltic Ketch Scotland - Corel 1:64

HMS Fly - Swan Class ship sloop - Victory models 1:64

HMS Diana - Artois Class Heavy Frigate - Caldercraft - 1:64

 

Current Build

HM Cutter Trial 1790 Vanguard Models 1:64

18th Century Merchantman Half Hull - NRG-1:48 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...