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Beef Wellington

HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794

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6 hours ago, Beef Wellington said:

in retrospect I'm happy with the decision to install the channels and brackets first as I'm pretty sure there would have been collateral damage to cannons during installation. 

Oh dear... I may well become the test case for that theory... my guns are installed and I haven't begun the channels yet.

 

Those brackets look perfect!

 

Happy new year Jason!

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Happy New Year t you too mate.

 

Very (VERY) nice work on those channels, brackets and guns Jason.  Those are very neatly executed brackets and look just right.

 

cheers

 

Pat

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OC, Carl, Rob, Thomas, Mike, Dave, Pat and all the likes...definitely helps keeping one moving forward!

 

Finally, have all the guns in position an the breeching ropes in place.  Amazingly time consuming, no more need be said, and glad its behind me.  I did allow myself the small concession of using a ringbolt for the less visible guns, and went with a ringbolt and ring for those visible in the waist area.  Despite the latter being more 'correct', the jury is still out on whether the results totally warrant it at this scale as the eyebolts only version seems acceptable to my eye (comparison photo below).   As usual, dilute PVA was used to help keep the breech ropes in position and to try give them a sense of weight.  Photos seem to call attention to all the little dings and dents that seem unavoidable and thankfully not really noticeable during normal viewing.

 

A very simple jig was used to help keep lengths consistent.  When using rings, I found that opening up a ringbolt using a small metal point and reclosing was easier, faster and predictable than opening up the ring itself.

 

IMG_2161.thumb.JPG.01c5e241d35b2ba5d1864c9a80a73705.JPGIMG_2159.thumb.JPG.d43acac6ccb4d913e85d7f3b4f02515a.JPGIMG_2168.thumb.JPG.148b785ce9010d570d6d54b4877c4fda.JPGIMG_2170.thumb.JPG.e42ae82e3d9eb83059da557319f51c2f.JPGIMG_2176.thumb.JPG.0bce29abf3e1692d75bd6b5b92b6f99a.JPGIMG_2174.thumb.JPG.b61063aa4819a809849a79e25c299900.JPGIMG_2173.thumb.JPG.c943e923f1e2fc4dd022b559633d59d3.JPG

IMG_2167.JPG

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Very nice work on those guns Jason, I got off lightly having only a dozen on my little Cutter.

Love the natural drape you’ve achieved on the breeching ropes , and impressed that you went with the proper hitch for the ring bolt seizing.

 

Your little jig for rope length will prove useful for me in the very near future.

 

B.E.

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Thanks everyone for continued interest, kind comments.and likes...

 

Block Stropping:

I've started stropping blocks for the hauling tackles.  I'm opting for a double-single block combination, although I've read that doubles were only used on 32lb'ers.  What I think this really means is that the tackle consisted of 2 double blocks.  For a mid-range 18lb'er, a double-single seems appropriate and makes engineering sense.

 

This seems yet another painfully slow repetitive process!  With this progressing in the background, will be intersperse with other sundry items.  Whilst not too difficult once the approach has been proven, clumsiness never quite seems to diminish.  Overall, happy with the way these turned out which is really testament to the fantastic blocks that Syren produces.  The picture below is the result of 3 solid evenings work....sufficient for the waist guns.

  1. Hooks were threaded with 0.3mm Syren line, and secured using 4 alternating overhand loops using tan Uni-thread (barely visible given its so close in color, but is what was also used for the breech rope seizing).  For the 1/8" double block, the strop was twisted through 90 degrees while securing to ensure the appropriate alignment with the block.
  2. GS-Hypo was applied and left to dry before trimming off excess Uni-thread
  3. Line held in position around the block and then secured with a simple overhand loop
  4. Dilute PVA applied to the overhand loop and the stropping around the block.  Was very liberal with this as it is not visible when dry, and anything that provides additional security seems silly to ignore.
  5. Trim excess stropping line once PVA has dried

IMG_2179.thumb.JPG.02b23f4cb27d56a1a1d30cbd83a85500.JPGIMG_2178.thumb.JPG.c8f174fee4e553a218502ece216336c6.JPG

 

Waist Beams:

First off, a correction needed to be made to the interior bulkhead to correct the position of the beam at the front of the main mast.  The position of these had been taken literally from the plans very early in the build and it was clear that they are not in the appropriate position relative to the mainmast.

 

Secondly, needed to finally decide how to deal with the supplied walnut beams.  These have a pretty rough grain and require a lot of cleanup to get nice smooth curves after removing from the sheet.  Following the scheme shown on the contemporary models (painted red with upper natural face of boxwood), thin strips of overwide boxwood strips were liberally glued to the top of the beam,  gradually sanded back and painted when flush.  The lamination is virtually undetectable, and it also helps ensure the walnut grain is minimised.  Filler can be used in any stubborn imperfections.  Although a bit of a cheat, I just couldn't face cutting my own from box, and quite honestly, I doubt I could get satisfactory results with tools at my disposal.

 

IMG_2180.thumb.JPG.a29239d7cf57c023fa747d59f04b5123.JPGIMG_2177.thumb.JPG.501d839d213b98e527233e98a56f3c8c.JPGIMG_2181.thumb.JPG.89f67ffddba9c6effb7c947acef83a37.JPG

 

Sub-Deck alterations:

Increasing the thickness of the beams also has the benefit that the top of the beams are flush with the sub-deck.  Hoping this means that the gang boards can now be planked with the sub-deck providing a solid base, but remaining invisible from normal viewing angles.  Slots were cut into the sub-deck to accommodate the laminated top surface.  Picture hopefully self explanatory.

 

In position, the next required adjustment is revealed.  The waist opening in the sub-deck has perfectly parallel sides.  After studying various deck plans, it appears more appropriate for the gangboards to follow the line of hull (i.e. planks are constant width throughout their length).  The approximate width of the gang boards were estimated from the AOTS plans and transferred to the deck.  The hashed area indicates what will need to be remove.  In actuality, more will be removed to set it back from the actual edge of the planking proper.

 

Back to stropping more blocks....

 

IMG_2182.thumb.JPG.6952a4a6826518d8c89b24886a2da3f7.JPG

Edited by Beef Wellington

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Thanks everyone for the very kind words and likes....we've reached another "phone a friend" moment to assist with my indecision:

 

Hauling Tackle rethink:

A previously described, looking to assemble hauling tackles off the ship.  Initially planned to use 0.3mm Syren line for the block stropping and 0.2mm for the tackle fall to get a little size contrast.  While initially happy with the result, after making some of these up and staring at them I can't help but feel the 0.2mm is undersized.  A tackle was made up with 0.3mm line to experiment, this is a little harder to work with the frapping but think a suitably repeatable processes is possible after experimentation.  Once made, they are very easy to hook into place, and seem to sit nicely even without dilute PVA.

 

So, which size do you think looks most appropriate?  While still a little undecided, I'm now leaning toward the 0.3mm, and suspect 0.25mm (if available) would be spot on!

 

After rigging the tackles and mounted in the serving machine, the frapping then becomes more manageable.  The final turn is simply fed through the previous turn and is held in place by friction quite securely.

 

IMG_2185.thumb.JPG.40d0aa23262aa97f374a9e81f2089494.JPG

 

The comparisons:  The 0.2mm tackle fall below:

IMG_2188.thumb.JPG.2e97f54403ec67deaf0e9b91b0781d03.JPG

 

The comparisons:  The 0.3mm tackle fall below (the line has not been trimmed yet)

IMG_2189.thumb.JPG.f865431e271780ae1ca5fd5107fa5e0f.JPG

 

And side by side (0.3mm on the left, 0.2mm on the right)

IMG_2187.thumb.JPG.ddfe4b704cb09daf00320f0cffe9d033.JPG

Edited by Beef Wellington

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Wonderful job on this gun Jason ! I also prefer the 0.3mm line version that fits better with the breeching ropes.

Thank You for sharing your beautiful work.

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Very nice work Jason, I prefer the 0.3mm as well.

 

Just noticed how nice the trunnion capping pieces are on the carriages.  Did you make these?  If not where did you get them?

 

cheers

 

Pat

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Thanks all for the speedy replies.  Going to go down the 0.3mm route.   After making the post I realized that it was the time already invested that was giving me pause.  After hearing your opinions, the demons have been purged.

 

Pat - The cap squares are the PE parts provided in the kit, they seem to work quite well.  These were rather fiddly to introduce the curvature, and I wasn't able to quite get the hard angle it ideally should because of  the thickness. but think they are passable at viewing distance.

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