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Beavers Prize by Mike Y - 1:48, 1777, POF (Hahn style)


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I was finally able to go through your log Mike.  Your model is amazing.  The work is clean and neat and precise.  If you can get your hands on some apple use Fiebings and you will love the result

David B

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Nice progress, Mike.

 

Michael: the type of hand-vise shown is a jeweler's and watchmaker's vise Check eBay for similar items.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Mike,

 

very very nice progress. Your model is looking fantastic.

 

Why don't you use simple oil color? I've made different tests as preparation for my build and happy with the results. It's important to use a good quality color (Schminke, Lucas ar two German brands for example). Than you can work with very thin layers of color

Edited by AnobiumPunctatum

Regards Christian

 

Current build: HM Cutter Alert, 1777; HM Sloop Fly, 1776 - 1/36

On the drawing board: English Ship Sloops Fly, 1776, Comet, 1783 and Aetna, 1776; Naval Cutter Alert, 1777

Paused: HMS Triton, 1771 - 1/48

"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it." Salvador Dali

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Mike,

Nice model....enjoying your build log.

John

 

Member: Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

Current Builds: Tugboat Dorothy  Newport News Shipbuilding Hull #1 (complete)

                            Iron Clad Monitor (complete) 

                            Sardine Carrier which I will Name Mary Ann (complete)

                            Pilot Boat John H. Estill Newport News Shipbuilding Hull #12 (my avatar)

                    Harbor tug Susan Moran

                    Coast Guard 100' patrol boat

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Hello Mike,

 

Just caught up to your present point of progress in the build.  You're doing some exceptional modeling here.  Very nice - I'll be following.

 

Gary 

Current Build   Pelican Eastern-Rig Dragger  

 

Completed Scratch Builds

Rangeley Guide Boat   New England Stonington Dragger   1940 Auto Repair Shop   Mack FK Shadowbox    

 

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Thanks everybody for likes and comments!

The transom is slowly progressing, but due to pre-christmas chaos I am not sure I will finish it this year.. :)

 

Why don't you use simple oil color? I've made different tests as preparation for my build and happy with the results. It's important to use a good quality color (Schminke, Lucas ar two German brands for example). Than you can work with very thin layers of color

The honest answer is "because I am really bad in painting and know nothing about different types of paint". Most of the models where I saw really nice wales used wood dye, so I decided to go this way. There are enough variations even with dyes, if I will start trying various paints - I will end up overcomplicating it and getting crazy with dozens of test pieces spread around my apartment :) 

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 I will end up overcomplicating it and getting crazy with dozens of test pieces spread around my apartment 

 

You mean your little corner! Actually, it isn't yours anymore since your daughter took possession :)

 

You can use either acrylic, or oil based often diluted with white spirit. Acrylic dries fast without a retardent, oil based needs a longer time to cure. both have their ad- and disadvantages. A matter of practice and I presume preference ...Im getting a go at acrylic, since I've not worked with it before. I've worked with oil, gouache, water colour, the model oil paints. So far I do like the acrylic, but it has it's limitations, as does any type of paint. You should take into account that wooden boat building is not just about the wood, metal fittings, and cordage, but paint and stains too probably pains to you ;) You'l find a way!

 

IT is so much easier ...

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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My daughter has her own table, but we build on mine, it is larger and all tools are closer :)

 

Will try acrylic as well! :) I guess in depends on the desired look. I do not want to imitate ebony 1:1, I actually like when black wales are a little bit fuzzy, in this case the grain raised by water based dye is a feature, not a bug. Acrylic will hide the grain? Will see. Scrap wood experiments are a way to go!

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  • 2 weeks later...

The log is not abandoned, just a very slow building due to an upcoming Christmas and everything related to it.

 

Notches lined up:

post-5430-0-28824800-1481668051_thumb.jpg

 

Whoopsie, forgot that wings are at an angle. Argh, redoing this piece again from scratch.

post-5430-0-78025100-1481668052_thumb.jpg

 

Two curved things are in place, one to go and then I can fair it nice and flush:

post-5430-0-82388600-1481668053_thumb.jpg

Edited by Mike Y
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Semi-offtopic: got a bit distracted from the build with an idea of doing some small-scale woodworking (jewerly boxes, that kind of stuff). Part of the plan is to also build a nice display case for the Cromwell. The model looks quite nice even when not finished, plus in the case it would be better protected from dust. Plus it is better to build a case while you have an itch to do it :)

 

Ordered few boards of some basic hardwoods - walnut, cherry, maple. While the wood dealer is milling them to desired dimensions, took some small piece of scrap to practice with milling my own wood. This was a walnut from the edge of a trunk, with a bit of sapwood.

 

Everything is sooo out of scale :( My tools are tiny. So I can only build tiny boxes.

The piece I got was not square and not symmetrical. Obviously, I do not have a jointer, so squared it on a table saw.

post-5430-0-21871700-1482076625_thumb.jpg

 

Of course, the saw is too small, so finished squaring with a plane. Which was also super small. That felt, hm, awkward for sure! :D:rolleyes:

post-5430-0-68773500-1482076626_thumb.jpg

 

Resawing this piece into planks on Proxxon bandsaw was just pathetic. Super slow even on a max speed and the sound was disgusting. The bandsaw was definitely not up to the task.

 

But after passing it through planer the wood turned out to be beautiful. Very deep walnut pores and grain, but guess that is a feature?

That contrast of sapwood and heartwood is striking, something I can use on some box to create a nice effect if matching the boards correctly.

 

post-5430-0-49242800-1482076622_thumb.jpg

 

Walnut on stained white oak.. I turning into a wood junkie...

post-5430-0-58451500-1482077320_thumb.jpg

Edited by Mike Y
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Mike

Too bad you are half a world away as I'd offer up time with my tools in my play room.

I completely understand and appreciate the feeling of discovering the beauty hidden inside ordinary wood.

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

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How can one not be a wood junky, Mike?   I've done some jewelry boxes also my Admiral...   a few "big boy" tools are good to have.  But not too many as they get in the way.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Wanted a featherboard for the table saw. Magswitch looked really good: https://www.amazon.com/Magswitch-Table-Feather-Universal-Model/dp/B001DSZ7EC

But I forgot that my table top is aluminum, not iron. So magnets are not working on it :(

So I bought this attachment, because I really liked the material (and it also includes all the hardware, bolts and knobs)

https://www.amazon.com/Magswitch-Vertical-Featherboard-Attachment/dp/B006SJH0SW

 

It was, obviously, too large for my saw, so I shortened it a bit, cutting off a long middle section and gluing the remaining parts with epoxy, reinforced with a wooden block inside the featherboard:

post-5430-0-09212800-1482592698_thumb.jpg

 

After squaring and shortening the bolts, it was a perfect fit and it works like a charm:

post-5430-0-27608300-1482592699_thumb.jpg

Edited by Mike Y
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A good looking modification Mike. You can probably use the other piece and build a top finger board to hold down the work as well.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Finally finished the transom.

Last set of notches (aka "macro is brutal")

post-5430-0-56873200-1482786526_thumb.jpg

 

Horizontal piece also got some of them, on a weird angles:

post-5430-0-65507700-1482786525_thumb.jpg

 

Glued in, treenailed and masked for fairing:

post-5430-0-77739500-1482786527_thumb.jpg

 

Fairing was easy, because the smooth curve of the transom allowed to use the plane:

post-5430-0-70596300-1482786528_thumb.jpg

 

Faired. I made one mistake, one joint is too shallow, so can't fair this junction properly - the wood is too thin and will fall off :(

Too late and painful to fix, decided to leave it as is. Eventually this will become a part of the quarter gallery, so it will be less visible:

post-5430-0-49655800-1482786751_thumb.jpg

 

Put the oil on it (that was fun, so many surfaces to carefully oil and so many are crossing each other). Can't wait for it to dry, sorry for reflexes due to wet oil! :)

Note that due to a different grain orientation, oil resulted in different colours for different groups of timbers. Light "along the grain", medium dark "diagonal grain" and very dark "cross grain". It is all made literally made of the same piece of wood, I promise! Wood is magic :)

Not everything aligned as it should, but I started with a not very symmetrical transom, at least haven't made it worse. Will pay much more attention to the proper alignment in the next build!

post-5430-0-77169100-1482786530_thumb.jpg

 

post-5430-0-65702700-1482786532_thumb.jpg

 

post-5430-0-65050900-1482786531_thumb.jpg

 

Now I am taking a short break - will shift attention to the jewellery box I promised to admiral, and then will come back to this log with a display case for the model. The model is far from being complete, but it does not stop from displaying it properly, and will definitely help to keep the dust off.

Edited by Mike Y
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Beautiful work, Mike.  I agree, the macro is not our friend. Everything from here is just fabulous.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Nice work Mike, I have to agree with Druxey, and although the journey is long it is full of rich lessons for the future.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Nicely done, Mike. The oil definitely enhances the wood. Good luck on the jewelry box. It'll look great.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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It's a very good work. The mistake you made will less visible as you say. The fact you talk about it, is due to your high level of exigence, and this is a good thing. Thanks for sharing.

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Thanks for the nice comments and likes! :)

 

Finished a draft version of the display case sketch. Would appreciate the critics, it would be cheaper to correct the design issues now than later! 

 

Basic characteristics: 100cm wide, 80cm high and 30cm deep (40' wide, 31' high, 12' deep). Plexiglas (3mm thick) would be used instead of glass (for safety and weight reasons). No glass on the back side, it would be mounted to the wall and the background would be a white wall.

Made out of the same swiss pear as the model. The frame would be made out of square pear stock 2x2cm (13/16').

 

Here is the overview first:

 

Front: 

post-5430-0-82533000-1483136970_thumb.png

(yes, I love scarf joints :D)

 

Isometric:

post-5430-0-81483600-1483136977_thumb.png

(Please ignore the joints in the back, I had no energy to draw them properly, but they be a mirrored copy of the front joints).

 

The load bearing part is hidden by the "skirt", and is made out of thick plywood bolted to the wall with Big Strong Bolts. Any sort of electrical stuff would be hidden in that cavities as well.

Plywood is covered by the pear "skirt" with a model description carved on it (or inlayed).

post-5430-0-46145300-1483137041_thumb.png

The top part of the case would be attached to the wall as well, with hidden screws, but will not take any weight.

 

Tricky part is the the way it would be opened. Since I will keep model in it and get it out every time I want to work on it, the opening mechanism should be easy to use (multiple times per week). Also, due to asymmetrical nature of the model, I want guests to be able to get it out easily to see the other side.

So the front window is detachable and is held by strong magnets. That means that front frame is split into two parts - one is 1cm thick and hold everything together, and another is also 1cm thick and holds the front glass. 

 

Front frame joints look like this (a bit complicated, but it is a sort of decorative joint, I want it to look nice)

post-5430-0-62916200-1483137468_thumb.png

 

Or a multi-colored version of the same joint, each color is a different wood piece:

post-5430-0-68573600-1483137471_thumb.png

 

There would be a groove inside front part of the front frame, to provide an additional support for the top glass and its frame, since otherwise it would be only supported from sides and will sag over time.

 

Would appreciate corrections if I forgot to over-think something in this design! :) Is the plexiglas thick enough? I accounted for the wood movement, grooves for the glass are deeper to allow wood to shrink and breathe a bit. 

Is the base construction strong enough?

Edited by Mike Y
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Looks like you'll be getting some awesome practise in with you're milling machine!

 

I understand the front framed plexiglass panel being held by magnets so it can be removed easily.

I suspect the plexiglass will keep the wood frame from warping.

Possibly a thin felt gasket glued on the inside edge to keep the dust out?

 

I confess I like your design.

 

You could employ a more traditional floating base... a open backed box that slips over the strong support that is bolted to the wall.

That way if someone looks underneath they see a finished face.

A set of strong magnets (or screws) could secure the "box" to the "support".

Edited by AON

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

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I like it. A great way to show off your woodworking and joinery skills. The case should compliment the model. 

John

 

Member: Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

Current Builds: Tugboat Dorothy  Newport News Shipbuilding Hull #1 (complete)

                            Iron Clad Monitor (complete) 

                            Sardine Carrier which I will Name Mary Ann (complete)

                            Pilot Boat John H. Estill Newport News Shipbuilding Hull #12 (my avatar)

                    Harbor tug Susan Moran

                    Coast Guard 100' patrol boat

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