Jump to content

Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale (POF)


Recommended Posts

This next sequence shows the rear bands being reshaped with the second die and using the vice and chuck to assist.

 

IMG_4757x1024.thumb.jpg.ebbb2e45f2e4f23eb677f4666c4b3a65.jpg

 

IMG_4772x1024.thumb.jpg.fa76d4bcbf9096db9cf96001c0be5b51.jpg

 

IMG_4773x1024.thumb.jpg.c8b2cae6164d924e28334f7f0c274498.jpg

 

IMG_4774x1024.thumb.jpg.b38bdc5ff3f923469fc31596a8d11ec7.jpg

 

IMG_4775x1024.thumb.jpg.9499519f5798abae810652d29473ffc0.jpg

 

IMG_4776x1024.thumb.jpg.7a29a308dd0aa14d9d837e28957887c0.jpg

 

After reshaping you can see the difference. the forward one has not been reshaped yet.

 

IMG_4768x1024.thumb.jpg.9a4076940b2d1e45028968648b7609bb.jpg

 

When they were both shaped it took two tries to get them reassembled, the first attempt was well soldered but the bands were crooked to each other by just enough to be a problem. so a second re-soldering worked.

IMG_4782x1024.thumb.jpg.5fa7620b634fe3a15e65b380dc1f92e9.jpg

 

After cleaning the assembly up a lot more the result looks good.

 

IMG_4792x1024.thumb.jpg.a5dd9abe9e1470afd82640f23b968e34.jpg

 

IMG_4794x1024.thumb.jpg.5e1ec019613f7b36c5ece4f4a711e497.jpg

 

Now to mate the front pieces and we are ready to put all this lot back together.

IMG_4797x1024.thumb.jpg.e29a0354b6da4bf62bfaa5d1d1997ede.jpg

 

As I mentioned earlier the saga continues.

 

Michael

 

 

 

Edited by michael mott
add picture

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent metal work Michael

Regards

Paul

The clerk of the cheque's yacht of sheerness

Current build HMS Sirius (1797) 1:48 scratch POF from NMM plans

HMS Winchelsea by chuck 1:48

Cutter cheerful by chuck 1:48

Previous builds-

Elidir - Thames steam barge

Cutty Sark-Billings boats

Wasa - billings boats

Among others 😁

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Jim, yes it was a solid piece that I machined. here is the result of the work this evening. I finished off the front clamping plates for the gooseneck and re rigged the mast, it took a while because i changed the mechanical advantage on the gaff by swapping out the pulleys.

 

IMG_4804x1024.thumb.jpg.542a324ffce50f607237420784c6aa90.jpg

 

IMG_4805x1024.thumb.jpg.a6152c85967aed64d07b0161ebba8d7e.jpg

 

I changed the ropes that are in the dead eyes to a tan colour as well. next up is to finish the sliding canopy.

 

Michael

 

 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beautiful, I might have to try a larger scale small boat next, although the wife might not be to happy 😁

That brass work looks fantastic, are you leaving as brass colour or will it be blackened

Regards

Paul 

The clerk of the cheque's yacht of sheerness

Current build HMS Sirius (1797) 1:48 scratch POF from NMM plans

HMS Winchelsea by chuck 1:48

Cutter cheerful by chuck 1:48

Previous builds-

Elidir - Thames steam barge

Cutty Sark-Billings boats

Wasa - billings boats

Among others 😁

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good morning Paul I have not decided that yet, making it black implies that it would be iron. obviously if I leave it brass coloured it would imply bronze or brass and keeping it bright or just allowing it to patina naturally are also options. These questions lead to all those other questions which address the moment that one wants to capture with the model. The issue of do I weather it or not. It is a model of an imaginary cutter based on the fishing smacks and cutters of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, that has been adopted as a pleasure craft perhaps one that has been restored. I also want to sail it as a practical model in a simple way without all the complexity of radio control. Basically an elaborate pond yacht. 

At this point I am leaning more to just leaving it to age naturally.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Druxey interesting that you mention the chuck being used that way.  My Mill Drill uses a large crank to raise and lower the head which is heavy I had been using the Clarkson collet head to shape the steel and switched to the drill chuck to drill some holes. normally I would have put a solid bar of brass or steel into it to push down and use it to act as a hold down or punch. But closing the jaws accomplished the same task. I have used the same method many times on the lathe using the chuck in the lathe tailstock as a press of sorts.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the likes and visits.

 

I put the rest of the canvas holding strips on today which meant making another 27 screws. then also the capture strips for the hatch itself a little bit of clean up on those tomorrow and then on to finishing the hatch boards or perhaps some doors.

 

 IMG_4814x1024.thumb.jpg.dc433204a2dbdc02e3cd303a4f4d3133.jpg

 

IMG_4818x1024.thumb.jpg.f9ea0c476694a5afc1c10ffd7dc76011.jpg

 

IMG_4819x1024.thumb.jpg.cffc63698d7a58ffc682228f06511a21.jpg

 

IMG_4825x1024.thumb.jpg.a6083d40a50c766c53fe9d06f2ca4675.jpg

 

IMG_4830x1024.thumb.jpg.76000b26453ccbb2daa2a8f3c5b47171.jpg

 

I really must get those other two glasses into the skylight. Also I had to un-jam the roller reefing gear which had locked up because there was some moisture that had gotten into the shaft which was ordinary drill rod and not stainless. It was easy enough to polish up the shaft once it was taken apart.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll have to visit this log more often; Druxey keeps beating me to the superlatives ;) :)

 

That IS some impressive metal work Michael.  I like your idea of just letting it gain a natural patina; but, as always, the final decision is yours.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

The other comment  I have  is that your roller reefing is identical to a couple of vessels I sailed on - ( keep your reef strops out of the cog!)

I have a question for you then, I am considering what type of fixing method to use on the boom, John Leather in his book "the Gaff Rig" talks about the Americans tended to use a rail fixed to the spar with small blocks to provide a smaller element to lace the foot lacing rather than wrapping it around the boom. While the English used a foot rope in a groove or slides in or on a track.

 

What was your experience?

 

Thanks to all for your kind comments, I am really enjoying the working on the cutter again.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, SpyGlass said:

I would hate to speak heresy but why did you go for a roller ? They could be quite  difficult in use ,I preferred standard reef points  with maybe a set of lazyjacks

I am pretty sure that I modeled the roller reefing from the cutter Carlotta. I chose the roller reefing because I thought it looked neat, this is a model and i am not having to deal with the vagaries of actually having to reef. In real life 1:1 my preference is for a loose footed sail anyway, that way the sail can more easily take the airfoil shape all the way to the boom.

 

I have just finished making a rail like the one on Carlotta from a strip of old growth fir with rings that are less than a 1/32nd apart. I did not take any pictures while using the table saw. I will have some later.

 

Michael

Edited by michael mott
adding a link

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Michael, I hope you don't mind some more comments on aspects of this discussion:

Roller reefing isn't hard to use, & it does allow more shades of adjustment (eg: to balance the rig) than reefing points. I don't think lazyjacks are possible, I think it means the topping lift goes to a rotatable fitting at the boom tip. I'd just add that you can still adjust the aerofoil shape of a gaff main without a loose foot - the luff tension & also the peak halyard will both have an effect.

 

Mark

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mark thanks for your thoughts and you are correct of course, I would still contend that it is easier on a small craft with a loose foot though.

Kurt I'm not sure about that case....more of an alcove I think, it certainly wont fit on top of the piano.

I did do a couple of experiments before heading off to a meeting this evening I need to shape the cut outs of the rail that will attach to the top of the boom.

The first picture the rail is just resting on top of the boom, I cut out the slots on the table saw.

 

IMG_4839x1024.jpg.5ea5024481b4115f3192cadbf17f732d.jpg

 

The second shows the first attempts at shaping the opening using my Mini Mill.

 

IMG_4845x1024.thumb.jpg.0b7e3da94789ba4fd46458e1f27adcfe.jpg

 

That's all for now.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/31/2018 at 10:50 PM, michael mott said:

I really must get those other two glasses into the skylight. Also I had to un-jam the roller reefing gear which had locked up because there was some moisture that had gotten into the shaft which was ordinary drill rod and not stainless. It was easy enough to polish up the shaft once it was taken apart.

 

Michael

 

Michael,

Have you considered using car wax on the shafts?   Since she'll be sailing, I hope you can prevent the rusting.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Mark I think that I will be OK on the roller reefing, I had not used any lubricant at all when I first put it together.

 

I worked on the rail for the top of the boom today. After yesterday's dodgy try out with the mini mill I opted for a more tranquil method and made up a shaped sanding stick it was a much faster and safer option. this rail is 36 inches long and only 5/32" by 1/4" in cross section. I used the big mill vice to do the clamping.

IMG_0261x1024.jpg.7a8b49fc1211ee4271fc4fa28d1d3eb7.jpg

 

IMG_0262x1024.jpg.0f65a3bc1e8515e32e85182b36450151.jpg

 

IMG_0258x1024.jpg.4fd20e7c00a460c205e52b0d76b586c5.jpg

 

I had to change the paper once it is 220 grit.

 

Next up was to file down the end of the boom to fit the rolling main sheet fixture.

 

IMG_0266x1024.jpg.c80e2a3c9e48b40d07effc0bd83a69eb.jpg

 

I used one of the drafting templates as a guide for getting the end reduced and round.

 

IMG_0268x1024.jpg.a8f3083d642ade5536bf8e6f6930725b.jpg

 

IMG_0269x1024.jpg.ae16af12211a525fc8c4284c8855ed39.jpg

 

the next shot is fuzzy but shows the end fitting in progress the rod in the center is 1/8th diameter with some surplus 3/8 sealed ball races slipped into a 3/8 hole bored into the end of the boom with a forstner bit  guided by a collar jig. then a brass retaining collar to keep the wood together sort of like a chisel ferrule.

 

2041047653_Capture0272.JPG.fdba8400c5feddd90451cf01e4cbad3b.JPG

 

The rod spins like a top.

 

Michael

Edited by michael mott
spelling correction

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I decided on not using the ball races they were a bit over the top. So inserted and fixed a brass plug and used a retainer plate to hold the end collar on there is enough clearance that the collar rotated smoothly.

 

IMG_0276x1024.jpg.94309e97c93b59bbd534c7e039fab6e0.jpg

 

IMG_4858x1024.thumb.jpg.965872bb049877adf9d144084785fe7b.jpg

 

Off to the year end party at the yacht club.

 

Michael

 

 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Michael,

 

I am just catching up on your log after some time away. I am very impressed by your willingness to rework things until they meet your very high standards. A lesson for us all.

 

A quick question regarding the rail on the boom. Were you using the sanding block on a rail previously roughed out on the mill, or was that a new rail shaped entirely with a sanding block? If so, how did you index the slots?

 

Great work!

 

Mark

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good afternoon Mark

in answer to you question I though a simple sketch might help with my answer.

 

1731299293_indexingcombcleat.thumb.jpg.1579ba3dbf8e7a78d57f70238f0b67e4.jpg

 

After cutting the strip that was to become the comb I switched over to the sled on the saw. beginning with the right hand end of the strip I set the strip over about 5/8th of an inch (I just guessed the distance) and having the blade set high enough to cut about 3/32 depth I made the first cut.

Then made incremental cuts net to it until I had cut approximately 1/4 inch slot. then I penciled a line on the sled at "a"

Next I moved the comb again to the right until the edge of the slot was approximately 3/8th of a inch further to the right and marked another line "b"

started the cutting all over again until the next slot lined up with line "a" indexed it to line "b" and so on.

It was slow but worked well and my fingers were tired from all the gripping.

 

There was minimal break out or fuzz on the exit side of the comb because of the support on the fence of the sled. The blade is new and I am very happy with it's performance The blade is an HSS N/F SAW 200 D x 1.2 K x 5/8 B A-Toothform 180 teeth.  I had it custom made at ALL BLADES CANADA INC for $82.91 Canadian. it is basically a slitting saw 8 inches in diameter with 180 teeth I cannot cut through thick wood because it heats up too much and warps, but when I use it with a zero clearance insert and cut up to 1/4 it gives a glass smooth finish.

 

I hope this helps answer your question.

 

Kurt, yes the intention is to sail her here is a picture of the water test some time back, there was 66lbs of lead ballast in her with still 2 inches to go to get to the waterline. so I will need to use the trolley when I launch her to sail.

IMG_3862x800.jpg.66fc6a1622bf33fa45ba95db52d74973.jpg

 

IMG_3863x800.jpg.87d8e4bf124d190a1524a5435d189525.jpg

 

IMG_3866x1024.jpg.d5ee6e39a553edd43d3e9bf96e958ff1.jpg

 

IMG_3909x800.jpg.567319f7d13b0d29b9e464e16382d59e.jpg

 

I have struggled with the whole radio control issue but have decided to free sail her like the old pond yachts. I am not going to sail her a lot just enough to know that she sails.

 

Michael

indexing comb cleat.pdf

Edited by michael mott
spelling

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I mounted all the screw in the comb cleat today. 31#1 roundhead screws were converted to oval head of .085" diameter with a .062 body.

 

IMG_4922x1024.thumb.jpg.6650ed8347b613675421cb08cb84fe29.jpg

 

I used some card double sided taped to the mill vice jaws to clamp the boom.IMG_4934x1024.thumb.jpg.20f4ed8fd1f2365aeb10ea4885888fe9.jpg

 

I used a beveled burr by hand to form the countersink.

 

IMG_4937x1024.thumb.jpg.442b09af5020d3171c2dc5627a0a2cee.jpg

 

IMG_4941x1024.thumb.jpg.51568ab32640866f8a766355efdd1cfd.jpg

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lovely work; the fine attention to detail makes it difficult to see what the actual size is.

 

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, michael mott said:

I mounted all the screw in the comb cleat today. 31#1 roundhead screws were converted to oval head of .085" diameter with a .062 body.

 

IMG_4922x1024.thumb.jpg.6650ed8347b613675421cb08cb84fe29.jpg

 

 

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

Nice work Michael. 

 

Would it be possible for you to elaborate on how you converted #1 RH screws to Oval Head?

 

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Jim, in the morning I will do a step by step sequence of pictures.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...