Jump to content

Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale (POF)


Recommended Posts

Spy, Yes they will be running back-stays with banjo blocks.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spy , thanks that would be great.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spy

Tell me more about the Equinox, is she a modern Yacht or an older one that has been restored?

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Spy for the extra information The picture would be good.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A little more work on the topmast rigging.

First I did an eye splice then served it.

 

IMG_8936x1024.jpg.2967e587e8c64b178beb044c3f060c84.jpg

 

It was a bit tight slipping the eye over the sheave at the top but with a bit of fiddling it all worked out a little easier when I lowered it after my arms started to ache.

IMG_5134x1024.thumb.jpg.e96474b8280836a586d93cdd937ef13a.jpg

 

I need to push the cap back down.

 

IMG_5131x1024.thumb.jpg.2e6bf45acd824d33fdb053d28c16bdb6.jpg

 

I also put the jib Forestay up and realized that it will need to be set up differently because it will attach to the bowsprit traveler that can be positioned along the bowsprit. The steel part will need to be shortened as it is too long because the halliard for the forestay is at the limit and there is no room to adjust it as the length is shortened moving toward the bow.

 

IMG_5135x1024.thumb.jpg.ae5577b20ea2af95466372f22c54e522.jpg

 

It is beginning to get busy up there.

 

IMG_5130x1024.thumb.jpg.0befe6f13458c12812bdb71522098cee.jpg

 

 

A shot at the cranse iron at the tip of the bowsprit. presently there is a double block with a becket but it need to be changed to a single block with a becket, The one I have is too small. the topmast forestay is set through a single block and will cleat off at the bow somewhere. It is belayed to the post next the the bowsprit at the moment while I determine where to cleat it.

 

IMG_5127x1024.thumb.jpg.1bfb7feae1ddea9a9a01d3b329c5028c.jpg

 

IMG_5128x1024.thumb.jpg.847ef4324f7d9161b2c7400b7b153470.jpg

 

Michael

 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love this metal-work, looks like the real cast thing !

 

One thing that occurred to me: the open end of the shackles looks a bit wide, which results in the shackled being pulled in an oblique direction to the bolt; in real life this could result in the bolt being bent, so that one cannot unshackle it anymore ...

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am very much enjoying your updates Michael; a great display of masterful modelling.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, wefalck said:

One thing that occurred to me: the open end of the shackles looks a bit wide, which results in the shackled being pulled in an oblique direction to the bolt; in real life this could result in the bolt being bent, so that one cannot unshackle it anymore ...

An interesting observation I did look at a number of prototype pictures of shackles and it doen't seem to be an issue with many of the situations that I looked at. From and aesthetic point of view thoughIt might look better.

 

Thank you Doris for you kind words.

 

Thanks Pat for looking in and you compliments.

 

I worked on the bowsprit traveler after looking at a lot of them on the web. I used some 3/16 brass rod first I annealed it then wrapped it around a rod in order to create a ring.

IMG_5140x1024.thumb.jpg.83aab72f248fd364d0d3b47b40e9d455.jpg

 

IMG_5139x1024.thumb.jpg.5b179b4176d25885566f0e40543f8b94.jpg

 

The using the jewelers saw cut across the area where the double layer is, I did this twice because I was not happy with the first attempt. I was not able to close up the gap satisfactorily. The second one silver-soldered and cleaned up is in the front.

 

IMG_5142x1024.thumb.jpg.310cebab9d3deeeb19048a2771d14cf3.jpg

 

Next I cut a length of thin leather to sew around and stitched it without skewering my fingers Yea!

 

IMG_5143x1024.thumb.jpg.4d0b8123921b6a07025cfc5691b40a2e.jpg

 

IMG_5144x1024.thumb.jpg.6b35c80597eb64d8b01dc8e2af5079a1.jpg

 

Next I trimmed off around the edge and then folded some 1/16th diameter rod into a hook and eye, I will probably revisit this tomorrow.

 

IMG_5146x1024.thumb.jpg.90ed612d5d2595b8695c4719004ff12e.jpg  

 

I will need to undo the cranse Iron in order to slip the traveler on after ensuring that the hook is going to work properly. 

 

IMG_5148x1024.thumb.jpg.1ea306d56d65b716696bb8ba4fb83257.jpg

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Michael,

yes I would like to try and find some time for another visit. Right now tied up with work and professional studies in the evening. I have 2 weeks off at Christmas to catch up with family, work on HMS Wivern ship in bottle and eventually get back to the Preussen SIB. I’ll PM you closer to the 25th.

 

As always outstanding work and nice fix to the dead bar and consultants. There was never a doubt in my mind that you wouldn’t resolve the problem.

Jeff

A mighty fortress is our God a bulwark never failing!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all for the fine comments.

I mentioned yesterday revisiting the hook.... well one thing led to another, I know that's what they all say.

 

First thing was to machine down some more 3/16 (.1875) to .140 this is reduced the ring from a scale 1 1/2" diameter to 1 1/8" diameter. then annealed it and bent up a new ring.

 

532378577_capture5150.JPG.74eaa8a6089e340113b35582603456b9.JPG

 

Next the ends were annealed again and flattened.

 

1589724538_Capture5152.JPG.8b3ba06f3910723085028234cabb5ca2.JPG

 

The flattened ends were then folded up with some round nosed pliers after another annealing.

 

301419385_Capture5155.JPG.83abcbaab6d744438f6aac7c61708877.JPG

 

The folded ends were cleaned up with a file.

 

494061381_IMG_5156x1024.thumb.jpg.0aa807c099d2f58285f133ede9cb5be8.jpg

 

45879538_Capture5157.JPG.9332ad3418933150376fc2e2fdbf2554.JPG

 

Then a new leathering done using the same thin leather and some light thread. 

 

945813792_Capture5166.JPG.193ad47496f52871610d52ae562a3c99.JPG

 

I was not happy with the results and so stripped off the leather and used a thicker leather.

 

376962891_Capture5167.JPG.27cd977e3ae7e2b414a8f27406c854b1.JPG

 

This worked much better that I expected and laid much smoother around the ring.

 

1761793935_Capture5170.JPG.fb05b16eeaee9f3d129df1c5f520512a.JPG

 

The holes needed to be drilled because I was so caught up with getting the leather work done, that I forgot to drill them first.

 

30107871_Capture5172.JPG.40965e3f25c0bc2fc0fbc35c9240c21b.JPG

 

Next a retaining bolt and a couple of nuts from some 1/8" hex stock and threaded 1x72.

 

233729908_Capture5178.JPG.4aca5e5f42c0b6a46684fe288956afdd.JPG

 

and a hook

 

813805942_Capture5180.JPG.6cebf787e8bc5bdda8f5612376bcf7a4.JPG

 

I needed to modify the end of the bowsprit to add a sheave to pull the traveler back and forth. Also added a brass strengthening ring once the sheave was fitted.

 

IMG_8940x1024.jpg.6d28ae151b708c6eccd79ad48aba51c5.jpg

 

Threaded up the traveler line and tied it to the traveler.

 

IMG_8945x1024.jpg.d978fa0ae8e9b6f0251dfa182c5e5745.jpg

 

Lastly pulled the traveler out to the end of the bowsprit.

 

IMG_5187x1024.thumb.jpg.a2955d0986be436aa3dc1e3d04bc6aa6.jpg

 

A long day but I am pleased with the outcome. So now the jib stay is operational.

 

62585555_IMG_5189x1024.thumb.jpg.f0764000b1bdb92fb2640338832daddf.jpg

 

Tomorrow I need to clean up the shop which looks like a hurricane went through.

 

Michael

 

Edited by michael mott
spelling.

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Outstanding Michael - I can’t think of anything further to say - simply, outstanding!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lovely job on the brass, Michael. If you find it hard to get leather to take the shape you want it to, try moistening it (with e.g. a spunge and luke warm water), shape it around the form, and let it dry. It is what a lot of saddlers do for amongst others certain parts of a saddle, runners, and some loops

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMG_5187x1024.jpg

A truly beautiful job on this pilot cutter!  As others have noted, the metalwork is spectacular.

 

Just a few comments from an old "pilot cutter type" sailor which I hope may be helpful:

 

As you can see, there will be chafing between the leather of the jib traveler and the seizings on the whisker stay splices. Keeping it all as simple as possible and as free from chafe and chances for hang-ups and tangles is to be desired. This style of traveler poses the inherent problem of binding when running in and out the spar. As the traveler sheet pulls the ring, the ring will tend to "lay down" on the spar and bind

 

There are a number of ways to deal with the jib tack hook and the bail for the traveler "messenger lines" (or whatever one calls them,  ... "different ships, different long splices.")  Some are as basic as a "U" welded to the traveler ring. Classically, the sheet bail is shaped like a somewhat elongated "U" shackle with the ring running through the "eyes" of the "U" shackle. The ring also runs through the eye of the jib tack hook which is positioned between the two "eyes" of the "U" shackle with the ring running through all three "eyes." This permits the bail and the hook to rotate on the ring independent of each other.  Instead of a "U" shackle, a short bar or other forged fitting is often designed so that the ring runs through a center hole in the bar and "eyes" at the fore and aft ends of the bar are available to shackle or splice on the messenger lines running forward and aft of the ring connection. This is a preferable arrangement, IMHO, because it does not require the bail to reverse its lead, fore or aft, depending upon which way the ring is being pulled on the bowsprit which, with a bail, will run afoul of the jib tack hook one way or the other when the messenger line is pulled. 

 

Where the ring is not solid and is bolted together at the top, the bail and hook is arranged similarly to how it is done when on the ring alone. The "eyes" of the bail can be outside of the "tabs" or "ears" and the hook between the "tabs" or "ears," with the bolt running through the eyes of the bail, the tabs on the ring, and the hook eye. Alternately, if a bar is used instead of a bail, the bolt goes through the middle hole on the bar. Another common design which permits easy removal of the traveler ring, is to break the ring at both the top and bottom, with "tabs" or "ears" as you have them pictured above both at the top of the ring and at the bottom of the ring. At the top will be a bail and the hook and, if one wishes a second messenger line to complicate the rigging, a second messenger line can be attached at the bottom of the ring which can come in very handy to overcome any binding or hang-up when sliding the traveler ring in and out the bowsprit.   Double messenger lines will, of course, require another turning block below the cranse iron and the question of whether redundant messenger lines are worth the trouble will depend on the size of the vessel more than anything else.

 

Yet another version of the fitting is to use a "T"  or triangular-shaped metal plate with three holes. One hole half way between the corners of one side of the triangle, or at the intersection of the vertical and horizontal "legs" of the "T" has the ring or ring joining bolt run through it. The hook and the two ends of the messenger lines are attached to the other three holes at the extremities of the piece. This is the simplest solution of all.

 

In earlier times, the tack hook tip was "bent and balled" to permit mousing, which is required to keep the tack cringle from coming adrift of the hook. In later times. "pigtail" or "S" hooks of various designs which reduce the chance of the cringle shaking free, have been employed.

 

The rings are not properly leathered with the plain seam stitch shown. The leather's width was cut to the match the circumference of the ring, or be a tad shy of it, then wet down and sewn together with a "baseball" stitch, stretching the leather so that the edges met exactly and the leather shrunk tight. This was a stronger stitch and finishing the seam in this way prevented fouling. This would also resolve the chaffing issue with the whisker stay splice serving seen in the photo above. I expect that using a thinner piece of leather (it may be planed thinner on the inside face) stretched and shrunk in place will avoid "scrunching" as the leather goes around the curve.

 

While I'd defer to some more authoritative source than my own recollection, I've never seen a sheave in the end of a bowsprit in conjunction with a cranse iron. The sheave in the end of a bowsprit is common for small craft with reefing bowsprits which set headsails flying and do not carry whisker stays. In such, the line to which the headsail tack is attached runs through the sheave in the end of the bowsprit and down to a turning thumb cleat and back up to a cleat on the bow rail. This arrangement can be set up with, or without a bowsprit traveler. This is the standard arrangement in Irish hookers.

 

bowsprit-thumb5796644.jpg

(Below) "Bent and balled" tack hook, un-moused, as tack is not attached. (Bowsprit reefed.)

5594120-bow-sprit-of-a-traditional-oyste

fc9c5e26cf7c9ed9171eabe2168a27bc.jpg

1170x600_76_26293535459c37409d7dd3.jpg

(Below: Irish hooker showing "jib tack + bobstay" rigging run around thumb cleat on starboard cutwater and up to the bow bitt.

galway-hooker-2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

imageproxy.php?img=&key=8f45093723bba175imageproxy.php?img=&key=8f45093723bba175Bob thanks for the compliment about the quality of my work I appreciate it a lot.

1 hour ago, Bob Cleek said:

There are a number of ways to deal with the jib tack hook and the bail for the traveler "messenger lines" (or whatever one calls them,  ... "different ships, different long splices.")  Some are as basic as a "U" welded to the traveler ring. Classically, the sheet bail is shaped like a somewhat elongated "U" shackle with the ring running through the "eyes" of the "U" shackle. The ring also runs through the eye of the jib tack hook which is positioned between the two "eyes" of the "U" shackle with the ring running through all three "eyes." This permits the bail and the hook to rotate on the ring independent of each other.  Instead of a "U" shackle, a short bar or other forged fitting is often designed so that the ring runs through a center hole in the bar and "eyes" at the fore and aft ends of the bar are available to shackle or splice on the messenger lines running forward and aft of the ring connection. This is a preferable arrangement, IMHO, because it does not require the bail to reverse its lead, fore or aft, depending upon which way the ring is being pulled on the bowsprit which, with a bail, will run afoul of the jib tack hook one way or the other when the messenger line is pulled.  

I'm afraid you lost me here bob. I am a visual type learner and a picture of what you are explaining would be really helpful.

 

 

1 hour ago, Bob Cleek said:

The rings are not properly leathered with the plain seam stitch shown. The leather's width was cut to the match the circumference of the ring, or be a tad shy of it, then wet down and sewn together with a "baseball" stitch, stretching the leather so that the edges met exactly and the leather shrunk tight. This was a stronger stitch and finishing the seam in this way prevented fouling. This would also resolve the chaffing issue with the whisker stay splice serving seen in the photo above. I expect that using a thinner piece of leather (it may be planed thinner on the inside face) stretched and shrunk in place will avoid "scrunching" as the leather goes around the curve.

In making my decision to do the leather the way I did was basically because all the examples that are clear on the net and the Commercial travelers for sale appear to be done this way. as these are from the net  sorry I don't know how to shorten the address without using the link in the header 

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjn_Yf57ITfAhU9CjQIHettDjEQMwhFKAowCg&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.unlikelyboatbuilder.com%2F2015%2F06%2Foil-or-varnish.html&psig=AOvVaw0EGuwX9M6x0i_Yv6PWhW_u&ust=1543967409551916&ictx=3&uact=3

IMG_4151x1024.jpg.4ce2310d8ee35da9e9e0855cb7f38271.jpg

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjn_Yf57ITfAhU9CjQIHettDjEQMwh8KDQwNA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.blackwaterleather.co.uk%2Fre-leathering-a-bowsprit-traveller%2F&psig=AOvVaw0EGuwX9M6x0i_Yv6PWhW_u&ust=1543967409551916&ictx=3&uact=3

 

IMG_1625-1024x668.jpg.03bdd5face723234c0827dab65f716fa.jpg

 

And in the second picture you posted  the ring is covered in leather the same way.

 

1 hour ago, Bob Cleek said:

While I'd defer to some more authoritative source than my own recollection, I've never seen a sheave in the end of a bowsprit in conjunction with a cranse iron.

Again Bob I used examples that I have looked at on the net for my inspiration as in this example on Polly Agatha relaxing at Cowes

 

1492409597_Capturerelaxingatcowley.JPG.d897960ccfda3a426089032a7187897b.JPG

 

or in this example of Betty in Amsterdam

19262033_Capturebettyatamsterdam.JPG.3a1ddcc9d66057b55b5522c321f22aac.JPG

 

or in this example on Integrity built by Stirling recently.

312346749_Capture06aloftfwd.JPG.212794d0760621ae1664f2328f71fe88.JPG

and finally this well crafted example on  White Rose from ClassicBoats

 

1483645572_IMG_8974fromwww.classicboat_co.ukwhiterosemevagissey..jpg.a564becbf8de0ce6b99e057fea572280.jpg

 

I certainly agree that there is a possibility of chafing of the leather as it gets close to the end of the bowsprit perhaps I need to make the ring a little smaller as in the example above. what is interesting about this example is that the sheave is on the bow side of the cranse iron whilst in the other example it is ahead. I don't need to say much about the way the leather is stitched although the baseball stitch would possibly be more aesthetically pleasing.

 

Perhaps I shall try it on a smaller ring sometime.

 

Michael 

 

 

 

Capture06aloft fwd.JPG

Edited by michael mott
picture placement.

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting information, Michael! It seems that sheaves in the end of bowsprits with cranse irons is a more common phenomenon than I realized. Being on the west side of the Pond, I don't have the same number of pilot cutters to use as a sample. I'm still troubled by their running the traveler line past the cranse iron and its attendant hardware, though. That's a significant chafe occasion going past all those fittings and its an important line. If it chafes through, there will be hell to pay under sail.

 

As for the stitching, it appears that they've opted for a straight stitch because it can be done on a machine with less time, skill, and expense, as the examples appear to be. I'll stand fast on the point that the two-needle "baseball" stitch makes a neater, stronger, and more long-lasting job of it.  It seems a lot of what's seen today wouldn't pass muster in times past. Just because there's a picture of it on the internet doesn't necessarily mean anything more than that is how somebody else did it.

 

If you spend some time running the traveler in and out under tension as would occur when setting the headsail flying, I expect if the arrangement is prone to hanging up and fouling, it will be readily apparent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's interesting to see that the design and construction of the traveller ring has not changed in well over 200 years! 

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone for the informative and complementary input.

Well somebody said at some time in the log way back that I was like a dog with a bone.....😀  The saga continues.

I thought about the baseball stitching a lot in the last day, and gauntlets are always compelling so thanks for that Bob.

 

A new ring slightly smaller in Diameter.

IMG_5215x1024.jpg.2684524fa61cf5daf16426b34ca28049.jpg

 

After three times flattening and annealing

 

IMG_5219x1024.thumb.jpg.7cc29257f6e43b2e3f72c0b43fc62f53.jpg

 

Folding and drilling tapped 2x56 to clamp it together. and a strip of quite thin leather from a salvaged bit of clothing. to check the length.

 

IMG_5221x1024.thumb.jpg.e1cfb287ce272d9733c6515dec460a87.jpg

 

The strip was marked with 2mm increments and a small awl punched holes.

 

IMG_5225x1024.jpg.77c96830d41bf7784fcd8f98a6a5d567.jpg

 

After reading and watching some demos on the web I was ready to start, the one caution was to use blunt needles so I dulled a couple of fine needles for the job.

 

First threading.

IMG_5231x1024.thumb.jpg.70d29271e719f2602cb0f04c7fd15546.jpg

 

Last and tied off.

IMG_5234x1024.thumb.jpg.eb48336d3e40de5d6a33b135268fa32f.jpg

 

Mama ring, Papa ring, and Baby ring.

IMG_5237x1024.jpg.02a8206eba17646e963be4a5dceb7608.jpg

 

I used the hook off the second Traveler on the new one. The leather and threads have been waxed I stained the treads a little to tone them down.

 

IMG_5239x1024.jpg.eb206f7c29425422536005ec79c46eea.jpg

 

Reinstalled

 

IMG_5240x1024.jpg.36a6e5de4430fc0a66d337ff536cef11.jpg

 

IMG_8945x1024.jpg.2dbf1211694a2d9222e07a8195d92953.jpg

 

IMG_8948x1024.jpg.6e3b8218fecb6b36246ec0bf311423f2.jpg

 

And here it is clear of the bowsprit shrouds.

 

IMG_8952x1024.jpg.e881cdac04d77b2f580022ebd07c7756.jpg

 

I'm done with this puppy and will be movin' on.

 

Michael

 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Michael,

those leather cladded traveller rings look great  !

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Worked on the topmast shrouds and finished the dead eyes for them.

 

folded up some .051" rod

 

IMG_5299x1024.thumb.jpg.23f541d9193debedc9cff1dc94148f4b.jpg

 

Flattened them

 

IMG_5300x1024.thumb.jpg.b858dc1c016b740e5737a7961bf6b87a.jpg

 

Silver soldered them

 

IMG_5301x1024.thumb.jpg.9be726c301db9ee1440e669250c13b12.jpg

 

Bent them up and fitted them

 

IMG_5306x1024.thumb.jpg.ee7afc1ac0cdc11f0a9eb3fda2df0ecd.jpg

 

The port side shroud was too long and I had set the whipping with crazy glue... an hour later with multiple soakings in acetone I was able to get the whippings off and re position the upper deadeye. it was a tedious job.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...