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HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype


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Thank you very much.   My guess is that yes the cutter would have had a king plank possibly...but I have never seen one on a contemporary model or on a plan.  So rather than guess what it would look like I went with a straight up center plank the same size as the others.  These were very small ships so either way would work in my opinion.   

 

Chuck

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On coiling ropes 

Working on a yacht for the past 30 years I have coiled a few. Been right hander and most importunely the LAY of the rope dictates which way the rope naturally coils. They all go clockwise So be very careful if the ones on the right of the canon coil to the right with the tail on the bottom Correct, and the one on the left coil anti clockwise with the tail on the top WRONG. If the tail is on the bottom the rope pulls cleanly from the top. if the tail is on the top the rope pulls from the bottom and gets tangled ,Not so good.

I sit from afar and watch this beautiful work been created, so we can try with our dull minds and tools the replicate (the tools can be sharpened)

Chuck Thank you so much for all your hard work 

Andy

Current Build

HM Granado CC

Past builds

 HMS Chatham CC, HM Convulsion CC,  Duke William German Kit, Fair American LSS, The Wright Flyer MS

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Thank you all very much.....got tired with the repetition of making cannon carriages today....soooo

 

 

I had prototype keel parts cut out for a while and they were staring at me.....so one project that is slowly getting started is a kit prototype for a Queen Anne style Admirals Barge or Shallop 1700ish.   I am testing some wood choices and here is a look at the keel assembly in cherry in comparison to the Cheerful for size...its 1:24 scale.

 

Cherrytest.jpg

 

drawingshallop.jpg

 

Now back to those carriages...sorry to digress but I had to get that out of my system ....it was bugging the heck out of me just looking at the parts sitting on the table.   ;)

 

Chuck

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just a small update even though I have been working on her steady.   The guns on the starboard side are completed.   The deck rings for the inhaul tackles were added as well.

 

galleystack.jpg

 

Then I made the galley stack. This was pretty straight forward.....four thin pieces glued together.   Measurements were taken from the plans.   When it was all glued up I sanded the four sides even more to thin it down a great deal.  The thickness of the walls were needed to look like metal so the thinner the better.  It was painted black and then treated so the finish looked like the cannon.   Hopefully it looks different than the wood parts painted black.

 

galleystack1.jpg

 

galleystack2.jpg

 

galleystack3.jpg

 

Finally I made the mast coat.  It is a bit of self indulgence.  I realize it wouldnt look like this in actuality but many times they are shaped like this on contemporary models.   I prefer it over seeing those pie-shaped wedges.  I think that looks very clunky.   You can see in the photo how it looked before and after.  It started out as a plain washer of boxwood.  The I shaped it by hand with the two files and emery board.

 

mastcoat.jpg

 

Next up is the pumps and winch.... 

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Playing catch up on this build Chuck. The ropes look great....very natural. Question about the red carriage trucks.

Forget that question....I plowed back to #647 where you addressed the issue of truck color.

My two cents, for what it's worth.... black trucks break up all that red and add definition to the profile of each truck.

 

Going through your log makes me want to build her again....much slower of course.

 

Cheers

Dave

Edited by SawdustDave

Sawdust Dave -

Current build - USS Constitution 1:60th (scratch)....

Visit my blog site - All previous builds.... http://davesmodelships.blogspot.com

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Chuck,

aahhh, this is another masterpiece of yours. I like it very much.

My workshop is down due to a previous move.

Time to get moving again and finalise the longboat.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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One question though:

How on earth did you extend the length of the day...... seems like you have 28 hours cycles in comparison to us regulars.... ;)

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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You are one talented SOB to turn that boxwood ring into the mast coat you've shown..without a lathe. My hat's off to you.

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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Chuck,

I need the blueprints for the timemachine...... you don't have enough with time to deal with that so let me take over and sell it for you. :P

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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Thanks Greg

 

The lathe is still packed up in a box.  Whenever I think I need it, I am too lazy to set it up and read the instructions.  Its faster and easier for me to just use the needle file and emery board.   One of these days I will get around to unboxing that thing to try it out.

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The ropes are fantastic also because are slightly different so looks realistic

 

Fantastic work overall

Edited by Leo-zd
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Thank you very much!!!

 

I have started on the pumps today.

 

Basically I started with a 3/16" square and used the 7/10/7 ratio to convert it to an octagon.   You can see how I carefully marked the blank and then filed the piece to shape.   The end was drilled out afterwards.

 

elmpumps.jpg

 

I also laser cut the handle from 1/64" thick boxwood.  The handle bracket was made from 3/32" thick stock.   The bracket was tapered where it attaches to the pump tube.  Then it was notched out with a fine file to make it look like a fork.  The handle will fit into this.  But first I must paint the pieces and then assemble them.  Maybe tomorrow.

 

Chuck

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Thank You very much.  The pumps have been completed.   You can see that I decided to paint them red.  Most people leave them natural but I figured I would go all in with the painted look.   The same is true for the pump handles and bracket.  These were made of either wood or metal.   Because most folks leave these natural I figured I would paint them black and make them look like metal.  This is how they were treated on the contemporary model of Surly. 

 

elmpumps.jpg

 

elmpumps1.jpg

 

pumptemplates.jpg

 

 

All of the pieces were painted before assembly.  Then I used some heavy paper to make the reinforcing band.  Those who have these plans will also notice that I have only used one band.   Yet on the plans there are two.  I have once again seen so many variations of elm tree pumps I figured I would show it both ways.  Those building Cheerful can decide which they prefer.

 

1. transfer the 7/10/7 template lines to each side of the 3/16" square pump tube.  Carefully file the tube to an Octagon using the lines as a guide.  Drill and bore out the top of the tube to a depth of about 3/8".  Carefully use a bit that will leave the pump tube walls not too heavy.

 

2. File and shape the bracket for the handle.   The part that sits against the pump tube is tapered thinner so it fits on one facet of the octagon.  Use a slotting needle file 1/32" thin or less to file the slot in the top to a forked shape.  This will accept the handle.

 

3. Place a 1/16" x 1/16" strip in a dremel to round it off. Using an emery board this takes only a minute.  This will become your pump spout.  Drill a hole into the end before parting off a 5/64" long spout.  Glue it to the pump tube.  All pieces can be painted first.

 

4.  Using some card stock strips wrap it around the tube as shown on the plan to simulate the metal reinforcement band.  One ore two is fine.  The top band should be carefully placed so the notch in the bracket accepts it at the the right height on the tube. So measure its location from the plan.

 

5. Glue the bracket into position.

 

6.  Insert a length of 24 gauge black wire into the hole on the end of the handle.  Like an eyebolt.  Insert the end of this long wire into a pre-drilled hole in the bore of the pump tube.  Adjust the length of the wire until the other pivot-hole in the handle site in the bracket nicely.  The handle should be in the downward position to be correct.  

 

7.  Finally insert a small length of 28 gauge black wire into the bracket hole and through the handle to lock it in position.   Snip it off on both sides so it stand proud of the bracket's surface just a little bit. 

 

elmpumps3.jpg

 

elmpumps2.jpg

 

Now its time to start on the winch!!!

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Chuck,very nice pumps. Like the reddish color.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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Absolutely clean and neat.good work. I like the shade of red.

Regards, Scott

 

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

 

Completed builds:

1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli  -  1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli  -  1:54 Adventure, Amati  -  1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL

1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli  -  1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel  -  1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

 

Awaiting construction:

1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL  -  1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

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No I dont bother with that.   The split is really tight.   You cant really see the seam so I dont bother with that.  I never apply so much tension on them that they would open up.  

 

Chuck

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Tip from a jeweler: after forming the ring, if you bend it back and forth a couple of times so the ends bypass, it will work harden the ring slightly, so it will resist deforming a bit better.

 

post-24574-0-63683600-1461081414_thumb.jpg                      post-24574-0-94288200-1461081418.jpg

 

First, bend one way.                                                                              Then bend the other way.  

                                                                                                              Do this at least 2 or 3 times.

 

 

 

post-24574-0-33707200-1461082926.jpg

 

Finally, close the ring.

Edited by JDClark

John

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thanks Chuck.  Especially since the current batch are mostly for cannon, there should be little strain on them if any.

JD, is this true for brass and/or copper rings?  If so, I will try this.  I think it will become useful when later rings will experience some stress.

 

Thanks,

Richard

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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Richard,

 

Non ferrous metals will work harden up to the point where they fracture, so you only need to do this bending a few times. The hardening only happens in the area that is being bent, and it only makes the area marginally stronger. Don't expect this process to create hard rings. You can make rings out of hard brass wire, or even silver wire if you need strength, but then you have to allow quite a bit for spring-back when you make them.

 

John

John

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