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HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype


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Chuck,

 

I know what you mean. I was just thinking the other day that I like the size of the parts when working in this scale. When I have my Cheerful rigging plans open though, and see the size it will be, I do look around the house and wonder where I'll put the finished model!

 

Erik

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Chuck,

 

your rigging so far looks lovely, as well as cutter and masting

wunderbare Arbeit !!

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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I agree that turning in deadeyes and seizing them is a chore, Chuck. Have you tried setting things up temporarily, figuring out where on the shroud the deadeye turns in, mark it, remove the shroud and do the turning in and seizing off-model? I find it makes life much easier doing this on the bench rather than operating 'in air'.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Thanks.   Yes Druxey I have tried it that way but old habits die hard.   I am just most comfortable doing it this way.  Its not too bad but just a bit finicky.  Luckily there are only eight to do.   But I am happy with how they turned out.

 

Chuck

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Shrouds are completed.  I also added the lower backstay on the port side.  The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32").   You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side.  It is built up from three laser cut layers.

 

Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang.  The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head.  They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.

 

shroudgang.jpg

 

Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.

 

lowerbackstay.jpg

 

lowerbackstay1.jpg

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I concur with Sawdustdave.....

 

Rob

Current build:

Build log: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25382-glory-of-the-seas-medium-clipper-1869-by-rwiederrich-196

 

 

Finished build:

Build log: of 1/128th Great Republic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13740-great-republic-by-rwiederrich-four-masted-extreme-clipper-1853/#

 

Current build(On hold):

Build log: 1/96  Donald McKay:http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4522-donald-mckay-medium-clipper-by-rwiederrich-1855/

 

Completed build:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/475-196-cutty-sark-plastic/

The LORD said, "See, I have set (them) aside...with skills of all kinds, to make artistic designs for work in gold, silver, and bronze, to cut and set stones, to work in wood, and to engage in all kinds of crafts."

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Precision indeed, but still short of capturing Chuck's work.
Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious might come a little closer in my mind.

Edited by SawdustDave

Sawdust Dave -

Current build - USS Constitution 1:60th (scratch)....

Visit my blog site - All previous builds.... http://davesmodelships.blogspot.com

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Chuck,

You should ask your Public Library if they'd be willing to display your work. That could inspire some younger folks that might never have seen a model ship at the level you build them.

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Chuck

While the model as a whole is wonderful, I especially enjoy seeing your attention to detail.  For example the eyes in the channels are not standing too proud as seen on many other models, but rather are set more deeply as they should be.   Very well done!

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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So frustrating to me at my age (74 yrs young).  As I stated to Chuck once after his observation that I needed to slow down.
A person of my age struggles with the one factor beyond his control.... TIME.
Building to Chuck's standards does require lot's of that one element, which means, in my case, I might never finish the ship I've been working on for over three years now.  Or it means I might never even begin that next ship I hope to build while my health allows.
No excuses.... it's just a trade off.

 

Note:  This doesn't imply that I think I can build to Chuck's level.

Sawdust Dave -

Current build - USS Constitution 1:60th (scratch)....

Visit my blog site - All previous builds.... http://davesmodelships.blogspot.com

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I understand what you are saying Sawdust Dave. However, one can hedge one's bets by building a cutter rather than a 74 when one is 74!

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Excellent point Drux....no argument here.
You know me well enough by now, after a dozen ships of all sizes (including the Cutter Pilsbury built as a gift to my ear surgeon), I am personally drawn to large historic ships.  
Chuck's Winchelsea, along with the Connie definitely meets that criteria. 
Haven't decided.
 

Edited by SawdustDave

Sawdust Dave -

Current build - USS Constitution 1:60th (scratch)....

Visit my blog site - All previous builds.... http://davesmodelships.blogspot.com

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Thank you for the kind words guys.

 

The lower backstays are completed so next up was to make the sling and then add the mainstay.

 

loweryardsling.jpg

 

The sling for the lower yard is served its entire length.  I used .035 dark brown rope.  It has a thimble seized to it with a hook made of 22 gauge wire and eyes formed on each loose end.  After determining the length for the loose ends I formed the eyes and you can see how the eyes close up the sling by being inter-twined.  I originally thought it would be easier to make the sling off the model.   Which it was.  BUT there were trade-offs.  This meant that I had to unhook all of the blocks on the mast to get it in position.  That wasnt too bad BUT afterwards I discovered that the sling wasnt long enough to get around the forward spreader.

 

loweryardslingrigged.jpg

 

This was bad.  I either had to cut the sling off and make another one...rigging it in place.....OR, try to carefully remove the forward spreader.  I ended up removing the spreader without any damage.  BUT I wouldnt recommend this to all the Cheerful builders out there.  Best to rig it in place.

 

The main stay was rigged from .054 dark brown rope.  It was served around the masthead only down to about 1/2" below the splice.  Thats right....a splice rather than a mouse.   This was very common on cutters of the period and appears much more often on contemporary examples than the one or two found with a mouse.

 

mainstay.jpg  

 

The other end of the stay had the 5-hole deadeye turned into it.  The lanyard was rove through it as usual but the loose end was taken up around the stay once and then finally seized to the stay as shown.  I used very fine fly-tie thread for this.  It finished it off nicely.

 

mainstay1.jpg

 

Now that the main stay is completed I can go back to all these loose ends at the belaying points and re-tension the lines.   After that I will cut off the excess and add rope coils....

 

mainstay2.jpg

 

mainstayrigged.jpg

 

Next up....ratlines!!!!!

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Really beautiful workmanship on the rigging Chuck.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Hi Chuck,

 

I just ordered some 1.5mm thin walled brass tubing. How do you cut it without crushing it? Thanks.

 

Best,

John

Member:

Connecticut Marine Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

Model Ship World

"So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby

"If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you”

 

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Insert some wire the same size as the I.D. of the tube.  Then roll an xacto blade over it.  See this video even though they didnt stick a wire into it.....thats the best way though.

 

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If it's a short length of tube, the wire will capture it and prevent the piece from flying off into the 5th dimension.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Thanks Chuck and Druxey. Best, J.

Member:

Connecticut Marine Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

Model Ship World

"So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby

"If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you”

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I added the sheer pole.  It is lashed to the outside of the shrouds above the deadeyes.  I painted it black but it could have been left natural also.  It is just a 1/32" x 1/32" strip with the edges rounded off a bit.

 

Then I started the ratlines with .012 rope.  You dont want to go heavy with these. The outside shrouds are simple square knots.  But I used clove hitches on each inside shrouds.  I urge folks to use them rather than simply tie a knot on all four shrouds.  The lines hang much better.  Its easy to do.

 

clovehitch.jpg

 

ratlines.jpg

 

I used a card with both horizontal lines and lines to show the shrouds.  Its not enough to just use horizontal lines.   Having the shrouds drawn on the card will make it easier to watch your progress.  You dont want to gradually pull the shrouds in.  That hourglass shape for shrouds on a model is the kiss of death.  This helps you keep them straight and not pull them in as you progress.  I found it better to leave the ratlines a little loose rather than pull them tight and I try to shape them after its done.  

 

ratlines1.jpg

 

Only some watered down white glue was applied on the knots of the outer shrouds only.   The two inner shrouds have no glue at all.  I waited until a series of rows were complete so I could adjust them before adding the glue.  You can also see that I finally cut off all the loose ends at the belaying points after re-tensioning the lines and I added rope coils to the belaying points.

 

ratlines2.jpg

 

Now its time to start the ratlines on the starboard side.  Yay for me.  Merry Christmas everyone!!! :P

 

Chuck

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Lovely work, Chuck! Clove hitches are definitely the way to go, although you should point out to beginners that the ends are square knots (which you have also done extremely tidy on your model). 

 

Best wishes for a Happy New Year and look forward (hopefully) to seeing some progress on Winchelsia in 2017.

Greg

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