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HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype


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HI Chuck,

 

Following the Cheerful has been great! I want to thank you personally for everything I've learned here (btw, I'll post some pic.s of my my thimbles in a couple of days).

 

The big question is are we now ready to see your 32 Gun Frigate Winchelsea (however you pronounce it)? I know I'm not alone in wanting to follow the build. It's definitely on my "bucket list" and I can't wait to see it move to completion.

 

Best wishes for a very happy New Year,

John

Member:

Connecticut Marine Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

Model Ship World

"So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby

"If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you”

 

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Chuck,

 

Your photos have once again given me the one reason I miss living n NJ, that is attending a meeting and seeing Cheerful in person.   Love the traveler rings.  Looks like a rod in a tube then shaped, soldered and blackened.   Close?    Your  Cheerful shows big vessels are not the end-all to having an impressive model.

 

Allan

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Thanks Allan

 

Yes the traveler ring is not made from wire that is usually the case.  It is made from 1mm brass tube.  Its easier to use and looks better.  You cut the rings like you would if you were using wire.  Just wrap around a dowel and then cut with a saw.   Then a small length of 24 gauge wire is inserted into the tube to close it up...you can push it pretty far into the tube so no solder is even required.  But first you should slide your shackle and hook onto it and then close it up....those are also made from 24 gauge wire.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am about to make the two yards for Cheerful and the center of each is eight sided.  So I am going to start with a square stick and then turn it into an Octagon.  I will round off the ends  and taper them afterwards.    I am using the 7/10/7 template to mark the stick so I can create the eight sided shape.  

 

When I was preparing my square stock I thought that everyone would probably benefit from the template I am using and created.   It will save you time so you dont have to make one.  Attached is a PDF template that is prepared with the correct ratios.   I have been using it all along to make the masts and other spars.  Its a very handy template to have.

 

seventenseven.pdf

 

Chuck

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I wish I had seen that traveller ring before I tried making one Chuck, far superior than the one I made.  I wish I has your forethought to think ahead, but alas my bowsprit had already been assembled and I would have caused more issues trying to fit it.  I will order a couple though, they are great looking travellers (and hooks).  I did utilise your plastic ones in areas on low stress, and they worked a treat. 

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Thanks for posting the template Chuck. That will come in handy.

 

Everything is looking terrific on the build. 

Joe Volz

 

 

Current build:

Model Shipways "Benjamin W. Latham"

 

 

Completed  builds on MSW:

Caldercraft HMS "Cruizer   Caldercraft HMBV "Granado"   Model Shipways "Prince De Neufchatel"

 

 

 

 

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Chuck, your rigging, particularly the way you secure blocks to spars and rigging, is so neat  and without the messy knots one sees on other models.  Could you produce a brief tutorial for those of us who are "out in the boondocks" with no local modelers' club to share techniques? Any help would be much appreciated.

        Walt  Haynes

        Walterboro, SC

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Thank You very much

 

I basically use a lot of simple square knots.  I try not to complicate things.  Half the battle is using the right sized line.  As soon as time allows I will try and put something together.

 

Chuck

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I've just spent the last two evenings reading this log from the start.

 

It is absolutely staggering. The level of detail and precision is absolutely outstanding. It is a real honour to see a true master craftsman at work. Very, very inspiring.

 

Many thanks, Chuck, for sharing with us!

Phil

 

Current (first) build: 18th Century Longboat

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I just went back and looked at your rigging for the dead eyes and the overall level of tidiness and size of all the various line and rope is very inspiring.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Steve,

 

Below is a link to a free animated knot site. It has videos of any knot you've ever heard of and ten times more of ones you've never heard of. I find it indispensable for rigging. For example it shows a number of ways to tie a constrictor knot which in many applications is superior to a clove hitch while looking virtually the same.

 

Best,

John

 

http://www.animatedknots.com/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.png&Website=www.animatedknots.com

Member:

Connecticut Marine Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

Model Ship World

"So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby

"If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you”

 

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.  

 

The deadeyes were turned in and set-up with the usual methods.  I dont particularly care for this aspect of rigging.  Especially getting that first seizing done just above the deadeye.  Its an awkward one as its oriented differently but it is important because it creates that shape of the shroud doubling you strive for.  The lanyard was rigged with .018 light brown rope and not glued permanently.  This was done once again so I can easily re-tension the shrouds after all the standing rigging is completed.

 

attachicon.gifshrouds1.jpg

 

 

I agree that turning in deadeyes and seizing them is a chore, Chuck. Have you tried setting things up temporarily, figuring out where on the shroud the deadeye turns in, mark it, remove the shroud and do the turning in and seizing off-model? I find it makes life much easier doing this on the bench rather than operating 'in air'.

 

Hi Guys

Stunning Work Chuck Ive loved following the build - as a newbie here I feel like I'm walking where angels fear to tread suggesting this but thought I might share something which is sort of between both your and druxey preferences just a simple way to hold lines till you want to permanently fix them without using glue or marking them.

 

When I started rigging I found I needed at least three hands until I came across some various sized electrical heat shrink tubing. I used it for taking the strain during shroud seizing and just adjusting and holding any lines fixed or running in position till you were ready to finally tie them off.

 

post-21889-0-68390200-1485404531.jpg

 

Just cut two or three pieces of tube - thread the line or rope thru then around the block or deadeye then back up thru the tube. Move them to a position above or below where you want to place the final seizing. Hit them with a hair-dryer to whatever tension you want - easy or tight slip or no slip and when you've finished the final seizing take a no 11 blade to the rubber and it falls off with no marks or need for clean up.

.

Apologies for the Photo its from my Billings candidate for a Viking burial. Cheers Pete

Edited by PeteB
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That is a great idea Pete; very useful in several application.  Thanks for sharing.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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  • 2 months later...

I know I am going a bit in reverse here, but I managed to rig the yards and complete all of the rigging today.  I will have more detailed photos as I sort them out but since I havent posted in a while I thought I would show the model as it stands now.   All that remain to be done are the anchors and buoys and the entry way stanchions.  Plus a little clean up.  But I still try to sneak in some model time even though it has been crazy nuts lately.

 

The yards were made from square stock....taken to octagon and then the outsides tapered and rounded off.   Once painted black the blocks and stirrups and horses were added along with the other half of the sling.

 

The same was done to the topsail yard.  I will have plenty of more detailed images of the rigging once Mike drops by with his camera.   He doesnt know this yet but I plan on asking him to help me photograph this stuff.  Photographing rigging with a point and shoot is impossible.

 

Anyway here are the photos.  The flag is just a test and I am living with it for now as I try new things.   I like it but I dont know how much.   Its printed on tissue paper for wrapping gifts with my inkjet.   Then its sprayed thoroughly with flat clear fixative.   It is soaked pretty good and molded before it completely dries.  This stiff may be too thin though...but lets see what others think once they see it in person.  It does shape nicely with various size paint brush handles.

 

loweryardrigged1.jpg

 

rigging completed.jpg

 

rigging completed1.jpg

 

 

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She looks great Chuck; the rigging colour in particular is top notch (especially as seen in the close up photos).

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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I think the last time I saw her,  there was no rigging.........so, you've made quite a bit of progress :)      she looks awesome!    I like the flag too.......not too thick and hangs nicely......not very transparent either.   wonderfully done Chuck! ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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If you look at contemporary paintings, ensigns and flags are translucent. The material had a very loose weave, as surviving examples show. You've imitated the effect very well in my opinion, Chuck. Excellent! And the rigging looks great as well.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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1 hour ago, druxey said:

You've imitated the effect very well in my opinion, Chuck. Excellent! And the rigging looks great as well.

Chuck I am just going to echo Druxey.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Lovely work, Chuck. Are you going to have a horse for the foresail? Just interested!

 

Tony

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14 hours ago, Chuck said:

I will have plenty of more detailed images of the rigging once Mike drops by with his camera.   He doesn't know this yet but I plan on asking him to help me photograph this stuff.  Photographing rigging with a point and shoot is impossible.

I'm ready when you are, Chuck.

 

Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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This is a beautiful model.  Chuck has been bringing Cheerful to our meetings and, I've seen the progression.  The detailing is exceptional.  Great job Chuck.

 

Tom

Tom Ruggiero

 

Director Nautical Research Guild

Member Ship Model Society of New Jersey (Past President)

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This is looking great Chuck. I do was hoping you could give a few more details on how you printed the flag. Was the tissue paper designed for Ink Jet or were you able to rig it? The process start to finish would be a great addition to our data since sooner or later we all run into making flags to fit our models.

 

Bill

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

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Thanks guys.

 

The flag was made from the tissue paper you use to pack a gift with.  Its white....you can buy this stuff anywhere but this particular stuff is very thin.   I dont have a brand because I literally went into some old boxes we use to wrap up Christmas presents and took some out of the box.  But you should experiment with different brands and thicknesses.

 

I basically use a jpg. image of the flag which has been sized in Microsoft word.  You could skew your flag ahead of time in the program to make it easier to shape but I didnt do that.  I just printed out the standard rectangle.  

 

First you print out the flag on normal paper so you can see where on the paper the flag will print.  Then you carefully tape the tissue paper over that image on all four sides...the tissue paper being slightly larger than the flag.  Then print the flag again after placing the paper in your printer again.

 

Cut the flag free from the tissue paper after it dries.  Cut it right along the edges with no white space showing.   This next step is important.  The tissue paper is so thin that the ink will soak through to the other side but NOT entirely.  So the first thing you need to do is flip the flag over and spray the REVERSE side with some Krylon Matt fixative.  Dont be afraid to spray too much.   This will facilitate the ink soaking through to the back side further and it will look like it is literally printed on both sides.   Then after it dries flip it over and spray the front side.

 

Shape it to suit with various size dowels.  You can also spray the fixative more to really soak it because this makes it easier to shape...you can do this several times if need be.  Once dry it holds its shape.

 

Then I poke a hole with a sharp awl in the two corners so I can lash it to the flag halliard.  Done!!!:)

 

Hope that explains it well.

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will it bleed through to give you the two sided effect?

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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