sfotinos Posted December 28, 2014 Share #151 Posted December 28, 2014 So I have decided that a Byrnes is in order. For those of you that have them, did everyone purchase the "deluxe" saw? Meaning with the tilting table, micrometer stop, extended fences? Basically a saw with all the works? Or is the best bet just getting the saw? Also where are you purchasing blades? Let me know. Thanks Shawn Roman and GLakie 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted December 29, 2014 Share #152 Posted December 29, 2014 Shawn, I can only answer one of your questions: Blades are from Thurston. http://www.thurstonmfg.com/cut-off-saws.html And if you haven't done so, head here for some excellent tips: http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php GLakie and Roman 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted December 29, 2014 Share #153 Posted December 29, 2014 (edited) So I have decided that a Byrnes is in order. For those of you that have them, did everyone purchase the "deluxe" saw? Meaning with the tilting table, micrometer stop, extended fences? Basically a saw with all the works? Or is the best bet just getting the saw? Also where are you purchasing blades? Let me know. Thanks Shawn Shawn, get as much saw as you can afford. Considering that Byrnes makes such a fine tool, look at it as an investment. I have all but the tilt table and it is in my short wanted list. What you think you will not use today, who knows you may end up using it or not in the future; however you will have a complete Byrnes machine that is truly unique. I do not think you will ever lose your money on these and to someone else, it will only make it more desirable that you have the complete Byrnes table saw; in case you decide to sell it or will it to your children. As Mark said the blades are made by Thurston but you can get them from Byrnes. Roman Edited December 29, 2014 by Roman GLakie and flying_dutchman2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLakie Posted December 29, 2014 Share #154 Posted December 29, 2014 Like Roman said. Sooner or later, you'll find a use for the extras, so get what you can swing now. I ordered everything except the miter-extension and the tilt-table, but those things are definitely on the list of future purchases. In fact, I've already come up with a use for the tilt-table. Gonna test it for cutting the bevel in the Connie's waterways. Cheers and Happy New Year to everybody! flying_dutchman2 and Roman 2 Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtropp Posted December 29, 2014 Share #155 Posted December 29, 2014 (edited) I guess I run counter to the majority opinion. I have the Byrnes Saw and did not go overboard buying extras for the saw. I did get the extended rip fence and a few zero clearance inserts to match the various blades used, but I consider those part of every day operation. I had decided to wait until I had a need, and skills, before spending a couple hundred dollars on the rest of it. So far the need has not come up as so far I have other tools that fill in, i.e., micrometer, brass spacers, etc. So instead I used the money to buy the Byrnes thickness sander which has already gotten a fair amount of use. Richard Edited December 29, 2014 by rtropp GLakie and Roman 2 Quote RichardMember: The Nautical Research Guild Atlanta Model Shipwrights Current build: Syren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted December 29, 2014 Share #156 Posted December 29, 2014 Richard, I think your opinion is very much in line with most of us. The Byrnes tilt table is a relatively new thing compared to the saw itself. When I first purchased mine it was not available but I did get the micrometer and the fence extension. The taper attachment and a handful of blades came later. I cannot imagine most owners of the Byrnes saw did any different. It is fair to say; grow the machine as your needs grow! Yet it is a good thing if you have the means to get the whole kit in one shot. Roman GLakie and flying_dutchman2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeaidanh Posted December 29, 2014 Share #157 Posted December 29, 2014 i have used the tilt table to cut the angles on the gun port hatches for my gun deck cross section. The kit solution was to make them up from three laminates and file the bevels. Sod that for a game of soldiers! Mine were made from solid and cut on the Byrnes saw. Thank you Jim. Mike. GLakie 1 Quote Previous Build: LA gun deck cross section. Previous Build: Lancia Armata. Panart 1:16 Previous Build: HMS Pickle. Jotika Build. HMS Triton cross section 1:32. Shelved awaiting improved skills: Chuck"s Cheerful. Current build. Tender Avos. HM cutter Alert. : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted December 29, 2014 Share #158 Posted December 29, 2014 I have the extended fence option and use it most of the time. I got my saw long ago before the tilt away fence was std. so I retrofitted it by getting the new ***'y from Jim and returning the original. Anybody with an older version should get this upgrade - in my opinion. I have the tilting table and have actually used it very little. However, it was a life saver when I had to cut a bunch of 1/2 x 3/32 strips with 45 degree bevels on the long edges for a set of barge covers for a 1/72 model barge for a legal job on a tight schedule and the tilt table paid for itself on the time saved vs sanding accurate angles on about 6 ft of strip wood. The tilt table is a bit awkward to use unless you cut some wedges to match the angle you are cutting and put these wedges under the saw base making the table level with the bench top - in effect, tilting the saw (this tip came from Jim). Kurt GLakie 1 Quote Kurt Van Dahm Director NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD www.thenrg.org SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS CLUBS Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago Midwest Model Shipwrights North Shore Deadeyes The Society of Model Shipwrights Butch O'Hare - IPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flying_dutchman2 Posted December 29, 2014 Share #159 Posted December 29, 2014 Here is a website that sells a drill press with all types of accessories and the material is made of aluminum and is reasonably priced. Would love to have this. It accepts any dremel. http://www.vanda-layindustries.com/ Marc GLakie 1 Quote Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better" Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLakie Posted December 29, 2014 Share #160 Posted December 29, 2014 Oh great! Just had to show me something else I just can't live without now huh? Something else to add to the list now. Better go out and find more beads and baubles for the Admiral. Cheers gjdale, mtaylor and flying_dutchman2 3 Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flying_dutchman2 Posted December 29, 2014 Share #161 Posted December 29, 2014 This is a tool I will get as there are so many things I can do with. Some may say that the dremel motor does not have enough HP, but for my that is Ok. I like all the milling attachments for it. Last night I bought the drill press stand from Dremel on ebay. I wonder if there are any milling accessories available. I researched this but cannot find anything. It is also possible I am looking in the wrong place. But if it isn't available I will get this tool. Marc GLakie 1 Quote Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better" Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLakie Posted December 29, 2014 Share #162 Posted December 29, 2014 Last night I bought the drill press stand from Dremel on ebay. I wonder if there are any milling accessories available. I researched this but cannot find anything. It is also possible I am looking in the wrong place. But if it isn't available I will get this tool. Marc Might as well take the plunge then Marc. As far as I know there are no extra attachments for the Workstation. But after thinking about it for a minute, think I will just get the Dremmel one and get a small drill press and throw an X-Y attachment on it. Cheers and have a Happy New Year flying_dutchman2 1 Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flying_dutchman2 Posted December 29, 2014 Share #163 Posted December 29, 2014 Might as well take the plunge then Marc. As far as I know there are no extra attachments for the Workstation. But after thinking about it for a minute, think I will just get the Dremmel one and get a small drill press and throw an X-Y attachment on it. Cheers and have a Happy New Year I just looked at it again and I like it and yes, the X-Y attachment is a must, will read up on it more. What I like about it that it is made of Aluminum as well (just like the Byrnes tools). This is more in my price range and I can use it for other hobbies as well. Marc GLakie 1 Quote Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better" Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLakie Posted December 30, 2014 Share #164 Posted December 30, 2014 Can't speak for anyone else, but for my purposes, it will only be used for wood. Light use only. Cheers Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainbob Posted December 30, 2014 Share #165 Posted December 30, 2014 Just remember guys that the dremel and other Rotary tools are made to take downward presure not sideways, where as mills will take both, best regards John. I agree a mill is better but doesn't a cut off blade on the Dremel cause a sideways force? Bob flying_dutchman2 and GLakie 2 Quote Every build is a learning experience. Current build: SS_ Mariefred Completed builds: US Coast Guard Pequot Friendship-sloop, Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard, Spray, Grand-Banks-dory, a gaff rigged yawl, HOGA (YT-146), Int'l Dragon Class II, Two Edwardian Launches In the Gallery: Catboat, International-Dragon-Class, Spray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yambo Posted January 2, 2015 Share #166 Posted January 2, 2015 I agree a mill is better but doesn't a cut off blade on the Dremel cause a sideways force? Bob It does, but it's always good to remember to let the cutting tool do the work and not apply too much pressure - whether it be cut off discs, saws or sandpaper. flying_dutchman2 and GLakie 2 Quote If I'd known I was going to live this long, I'd have taken better care of myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainbob Posted January 2, 2015 Share #167 Posted January 2, 2015 It does, but it's always good to remember to let the cutting tool do the work and not apply too much pressure - whether it be cut off discs, saws or sandpaper. Or mill bitt. Bob Quote Every build is a learning experience. Current build: SS_ Mariefred Completed builds: US Coast Guard Pequot Friendship-sloop, Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard, Spray, Grand-Banks-dory, a gaff rigged yawl, HOGA (YT-146), Int'l Dragon Class II, Two Edwardian Launches In the Gallery: Catboat, International-Dragon-Class, Spray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flying_dutchman2 Posted January 6, 2015 Share #168 Posted January 6, 2015 As for the japanese saws, the Vaughan saws are quite good. Have a look at the site here, and also notice the 'Perfect Guide' on the last page. I picked up a returned one (with the saw too) on Amazon for $25. It works very well for finish carpentry such as moldings. I think I'm going to modify it with the magnetic tape too because it will make it easier to use and reduce the chance of damaging the sawblade. http://www.vaughanmfg.com/shopping/Departments/Bear-Saw-Hand-Saws.aspx?sortorder=1&page=1 I went to the Vaughan and purchased three Bear Hand saws (Japanese saws). Fine, Med & Coarse TPI. I am sold. Have used it one various projects. You get a straight cut downwards, no getting stuck in the wood. I let the saw blade do the sawing, all I do is move the saw forward and backwards. [in forestry - graduate school - when I taught the timber harvesting classes, first rule of the first day: Hold the chainsaw on the angle you want a cut and let the chain do the job. You have to have a sharp chain to do this] I want to thank you for the suggestion. I am very happy with them Marc GLakie and Roman 2 Quote Current Built: Zeehaen 1639, Dutch Fluit from Dutch explorer Abel J. Tasman Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better" Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t5956ws Posted January 10, 2015 Share #169 Posted January 10, 2015 Maybe this is off topic but how does anyone think the new "Microlux digital" stack up against the Byrnes table saws? Pricing is comparable. Almost $400 us. flying_dutchman2 and GLakie 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjdale Posted January 10, 2015 Share #170 Posted January 10, 2015 If the price is comparable, go with the Byrnes. You won't regret it! If the price is not comparable, go with the Byrnes. You won't regret it! flying_dutchman2 and GLakie 2 Quote Grant ____________________________________________________ Current builds: African Queen - Radio Control / Live Steam Previous builds: The Shipyard at Foss' Landing (Diorama), Hannah - Ship in a Bottle, NRG Capstan Project, 1869 Allerton Steam Pumper, Medway Longboat , Alfa Romeo Spider Gran Touring (Pocher) , Da Vinci Flying Machine, 1949 Chris Craft 19' Racing Runabout - Dumas - Radio, Bomb Vessel Granado, 1742 - Cross Section - Scratchbuild, HMS Victory (Mamoli 1:90), Cutty Sark, Armed Pinnace, Bounty, Santa Maria At another place: Stephenson's Rocket (OcCre 1:24) (click the title to follow the link) In the Gallery: Lancia Armata 1803, Bomb Vessel Granada, 1742 Cross Section, 1949 Chris Craft 19' Racing Runabout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLakie Posted January 10, 2015 Share #171 Posted January 10, 2015 Just got the notification from Donna that mine's on the truck and scheduled for delivery sometime Wednesday. Cheers mtaylor, Roman, flying_dutchman2 and 2 others 5 Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shihawk Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share #172 Posted January 10, 2015 Lucky sod !!!!!,,Enjoy Roman and GLakie 2 Quote HMS Victory by Shihawk. Billing 1-75 wood finish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Blarney Posted January 10, 2015 Share #173 Posted January 10, 2015 Having thought it over, I think I could get by without it, if I'm not doing production work. For most modelers, speed/convenience of production is not so important as the finished piece of 'lumber'. I'll see if I can develop handtool methods that could work, with reasonable precision. What are the most usual stock dimensions of model 'lumber'? Is it about 12-16" long, 3/4" thick, and about 3/32" thick? What's the thinnest lumber needed? captainbob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLakie Posted January 11, 2015 Share #174 Posted January 11, 2015 Lucky sod !!!!!,,Enjoy Oh I don't know about luck as it was a couple months of saving my pennies so I could make it happen. "All good things----" right? I fully plan to be developing efficient hand-tool operations for most of my model-making other than milling planks and a little joinery cutting. Gotta have something to do when the power goes out. Cheers flying_dutchman2 and shihawk 2 Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted January 11, 2015 Share #175 Posted January 11, 2015 Having thought it over, I think I could get by without it, if I'm not doing production work. For most modelers, speed/convenience of production is not so important as the finished piece of 'lumber'. I'll see if I can develop handtool methods that could work, with reasonable precision. What are the most usual stock dimensions of model 'lumber'? Is it about 12-16" long, 3/4" thick, and about 3/32" thick? What's the thinnest lumber needed? Bob, I'm milling planking... 1/16 X 1/8, 1/32 X 1/8 and 3/32 X 3/16 (all dimensions in inches). I'm using my table saw as there isn't any other way to do this that I can see. The wood is ebony and swiss pear. As much use as my MicroLux has had, if I were buying a new saw today, it would be a Byrnes. Just for the precision. There a coupe of problems with the MicroLux.. That little motor gets really hot in production type sawing. I usually take a break every 15 minutes or so to let it cool by running it for 5 minutes under no load. I guess I'm just being finicky on that. But the other hang up is the movable arbor. If lets you cut angles. I'm not sure about the new version, but on the old one, the guage isn't accurate and setting it for 0 degrees or an angle requires a bit of fiddling. Same for the mitre.. Mines off 1/2 degree. Not much until you're trying to cut wood to butt up against another piece. like a coaming. I've had to do a fair amount of "bashing" and calibrating of the thing that I wouldn't have had to with a Byrnes. GLakie and flying_dutchman2 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shihawk Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share #176 Posted January 11, 2015 Glakie , your right i should not call it luck , you had the b---s to go ahead and buy it ,where as i,m fuffing about wondering if i will use or need it . Of -course i,ll use it and needing it probably does,nt really come in to it . I won,t use it every day or even every week but then what tool can boast that, and when i need to cut something accurate i,ll have it there . I probably should not have called you a sod either but over here it,s just a saying ,i hope you took it the way it was meant And i still think it looks great even i never use it ?? Boyd GLakie 1 Quote HMS Victory by Shihawk. Billing 1-75 wood finish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLakie Posted January 11, 2015 Share #177 Posted January 11, 2015 Hey no harm, no foul, Boyd. I've been called a lot worse. As far as needing it, it's just a preference to replace all of the basswood on the Connie, and in this case, will be a lot of milling. Cheers shihawk 1 Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Blarney Posted January 11, 2015 Share #178 Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) Hmm, it seems that I've created a challenge for myself. Well ok, but right now I'm installing new arbor bearings in a 1956 Yates American table saw - a battleship-quality instrument But what I'll tell you about what I've noticed, is that although a tablesaw is wonderful, but other times it's a waste of time to set up and it blows dust everywhere. I'd guess that for many modelers, that they have limited space to pursue the craft, and maybe they'd like to enjoy the craft with other persons in the room, who might not be enthusiastic or comfortable in a big shop environment. Edited January 11, 2015 by Bob Blarney Roman, cristikc, GLakie and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgbot Posted January 11, 2015 Share #179 Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) When I use mine I do not get much dust it has been a year since I have used it. When I go back to Chicago I will be wearing a dust mask and use a vacuum to take care of the dust. Dust removal is important. If you are catching either a cold or from something else. You should be careful. David B Edited January 11, 2015 by dgbot flying_dutchman2 and GLakie 2 Quote Work in progress USS Maine in cardstock.http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7446-uss-maine-by-dgbot-hmv-card/#entry220003 Completed Blockade runner Teazer http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6063-blockade-runner-teazer-by-dgbot-card-stock/#entry175967 Completed The Monitor Lehigh http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6920-the-monitor-lehigh-by-dgbot-card-model/#entry203680 Completed Kingston Class MCVD http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/10-kit-build-logs-in-progress/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLakie Posted January 11, 2015 Share #180 Posted January 11, 2015 Dust removal is very important. Especially here in my place as I'll be doing all my milling and modeling in my apartment. I have a very efficient shop vac with a 5 horse motor and adapters for almost all of my power tools, and this thing would suck a golf-ball through a garden-hose. When I run my Bosch 5 in random orbit, the dust left behind is virtually zero. I get way more dust in the place from hand-sanding alone. Also noise isn't an issue because the walls are sound-proofed and all the floors are 1 foot thick concrete. Cheers dgbot and WackoWolf 2 Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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