HMB Endeavour by shipaholic - Eaglemoss - 1/51

[mikec]

Very nice work. I am working on the tops . Yours look fantastic. Re the fuzz-I run all my ropes through a watered down solution of white glue (wood glue) I apply some glue and water to my thumb and fore finger then pull the rope through a couple of times. You can do this now before you apply black paint. Another thing you can do is run the rope quickly over a candle flame. Experiment first though. This will burn off the fizz.

[shipaholic]

Thanks Mike, yeah I'm using a cigarette lighter on the fuzzy rope, works okay. I'm continuing on with the shrouds today, turning in the deadeyes.

[shipaholic]

More pics of the shrouds going on

[S.Coleman]

The shrouds are coming alone nicely. Are these left natural or painted black?

[shipaholic]

The shrouds will be painted black. The starboard side dead eyes are already painted

Edited April 11, 2015 by shipaholic

[mikec]

They look brilliant, very realistic. What size deadeyes are you using please?

[shipaholic]

Thanks Mike. I'm using the 5mm deadeyes supplied with the partwork

[Captain Slog]

The shrouds will be painted black.

Glad to hear you will be colouring your shrouds black.

 

Looking very neat indeed and also notice you have served the leading shroud against wear from the sails, nice touch.

 

Cheers

Slog

[shipaholic]

Thanks Slog, yes I'm trying to make the rigging as accurate as possible - the first shroud was always served.

[DaveRow]

Coming along very well Steve.

I'm a million miles behind you're build, but one day will get there.

Dave R.

[shipaholic]

I wasn't happy with the angle of the bowsprit, it wasn't quite steep enough. So I unshipped it and sanded a bit off the heel where it sits on the deck. While I was at it I also sanded the black paint off the deadeyes and hearts and varnished them. Many contemporary models built in the 18th century have deadeyes that are lacquered instead of painted black. I think that when you have everything to do with the standing rigging painted black you can't see the detail very well. I might sand all the deadeyes that I have already painted and lacquer them. I want this ship to look more like a contemporary model.

Very happy with how the fore shrouds look at the mast head.

Edited January 10, 2015 by shipaholic

[shipaholic]

A bit of a diversion from doing the shrouds today. I built a binnacle. Just a simple one like the one they use for display purposes on the replica vessel

[mikec]

Masterful work.what size thread are you using for the shrouds please?

[shipaholic]

Hi Mike

The thread is 1.18mm (from Chuck Passaro). I worked it out thus;

 

ships of 300 tonnes had shrouds 7 inch circumference

 

7 x 25.4 is 177.8 mm divided by pi to give diameter is 56.6 mm. Divide by 51 (scale) gives 1.11mm

 

Chucks thread is good for shrouds, it's cable laid

 

Cheers

Steve

[mikec]

Thanks heaps Steve, I am closely following your excellent rigging work. I have been using Chucks rope as well. I will order some for the shrouds immediately.

[shipaholic]

Mike, now I need your advice, can you give me the size of the hooks and barrels you used for your swivel guns

Edited January 11, 2015 by shipaholic

[mikec]

Hi Steve, Amati hooks part number 4406-02. for 5mm deadeyes. They come in laser etched set of 10. 

[mikec]

Re swivel guns, I used Chucks swivel guns, they are 18mm.

Refer to B.E,s excellent build as to how to make the swivel mounts.

[shipaholic]

Thanks Mike

[shipaholic]

Hi everyone

 

I am just looking to start making the topmasts and just discovered a mistake in the AOTS. 

 

On page 88 there are the drawings of the topmasts and they are labelled as 1/8" = 1ft. The topmast drawings are actually 3/16 = 1ft.

 

If you measure the main topmast length on page 83 at 1/16" scale it is about 64mm

 

So at 1/8" scale it should be twice as long ie 128mm. The main topmast in the drawing on page 88 is 194mm long - three times as long so it must be 3/16" scale

 

I double checked by measuring the topmast on my AL Endeavour (which is 3/16" scale) and it is indeed 194mm long

 

Cheers

Steve

Edited January 18, 2015 by shipaholic

[DaveRow]

Hi Steve,

I agree something is not right there.

I am hesitant at scaling directly off plans unless I have a reference to check against.

I have been dabbling into the masts recently - interested to check this out.

 

The AOTS Main Topmast on page 83(1/16" = 1 ft) scales approx. 39' 6"

As a check I looked up Ray Parkin HMBE and on page 34 he has a table of Masts and Yards(Woolwich Yard).

The Main Topmast is at 13 yds &19 inches = 39' 19"(40' 7") reasonably close ?.

Should we work with this these lengths, and the proportions of size of the view on page 83. ?

 

AOTS p88 - scale of 1/8"=1' scales at 61' which is no good - and don't trust the scale on the page.

Correct you are at 3/16"=1' scales approx. just under 41' - pretty close to the Parkin table size of 40' 7"

Good pickup Steve.

 

Dave R.

[mikec]

thanks Steve, I already picked this up just yesterday, as I too have just stated the top masts. 

[mikec]

Good work Steve, you and I are pretty much up to the same stage, I saw your warning after I noticed Pats posting. I have been cross referencing my scaled up drawings to the eaglemoss plan sheets as double-checking system, and that is how i picked the error up. Lucky for Pat it was picked up before he started making all the ratlines...

[BANYAN]

Nice pick up Steve, I wish I had been as diligent

 

Nice work on the shroud whippings - far better than mine. 

 

cheers

 

Pat

[shipaholic]

I built another skylight (companion as it was called) because the previous one didn't look right, and didn't fit with the description given in the refit in 1768 - "Companion on the quarter deck to be framed with sash light all round & sash & grating on the top"

I am still trying to sort out what to do about the binnacle, whether to use the one I built or go with one like in the AOTS that arches over the skylight. I have never seen any photo or drawing or any other ship model that has a binnacle that resembles the one in AOTS.

[mikec]

Sorry but I dont think that is right at all. The grating on top would refer to a metal grill that "protects" the glass. Remember, the purpose of this is a sky light, which is to let in as much light as possible to the cabin below. Look at the Victorys sky light.

[shipaholic]

Hi Mike

 

Yes I think the skylight would have been like the one on the Victory but the top sash may have been covered with a grating to protect it during sailing. That's the way I have built it, just like yours but with the grating on top. Here's a pic of an 18th century model showing a grating on top of the skylight. Also on the replica vessel they put a grating on top of the skylight when at sea.

[shipaholic]

Robin

Yes I agree, the Endeavour might have had two binnacles, a small one either side of the skylight.

[mikec]

Hi Steve, thanks for the explanation. That makes total sense. Love your build, and I will probably do the same now.

cheers Mike

[shipaholic]

Today I was fitting the tackles and recoil ropes to the final two cannon (I kept putting it off because its so fiddly) and I had a thought about how the tackle and recoil rope should be rigged. I think it makes more sense to have the recoil rope above the tackle rope. I have already rigged all the other guns with the recoil rope under the tackle.

If anyone has info on which is the correct configuration I would be grateful.

Cheers

Steve

Edited April 6, 2015 by shipaholic