Ulises Victoria Posted March 7, 2013 Share #31 Posted March 7, 2013 This is the first I've heard of a CA allergy. I've noticed myself that after a day of rigging my ship, using CA in very very small amounts to stiffen lines or prevent unraveling before cutting, that I have trouble sleeping due to nasal congestion. It goes away in about 24 hours. My typical technique for using CA is to put a single drop on a piece of clear plastic, then use a pin to transfer a small amount to a thread end about to be trimmed. I also dip a thread end into the CA to keep the end from unraveling. Is it possible that even this small amount on could cause an allergic reaction? I guess I do use my fingers to wipe off excess from the pin or thread. I use diluted PVA (white Elmer's) to hold knots tight. Any alternatives to using CA to prevent ends from unraveling? Andy. What I like best is using flat (matte) Testors dullcote lacquer. A mini-drop will dry flat and totally invisible and will hold your knots without making the thread brittle, or leaving a shiny or white spot, as sometimes happens with CA. There may be an acrylic equivalent but this has worked wonderfully for me. I try to avoid CA in my shipbuilding at all costs. Not because of allergies, mind you. I just don't like it much. Quote There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT. Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina. Last finished projects: Royal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90; Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models. So much to build, so little time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamarvalley Posted March 7, 2013 Share #32 Posted March 7, 2013 Thanks Larry. Who knew? Another 'tool' in the arsenal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lb0190 Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share #33 Posted March 7, 2013 Thanks Larry. Who knew? Another 'tool' in the arsenal. Your welcome. That is whats so nice about this forum, so much infomation and everyone is willing to share. I hope it works well for you. Quote Regards, Larry ---------------------------------------------------- Current Build US Brig Niagara Completed Builds George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat Future Builds 18th Century Longboat by MS HM Cutter Cheerful Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normanh Posted March 7, 2013 Share #34 Posted March 7, 2013 This link for all the info you need on CA http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate Quote Norman Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck. Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake. Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamarvalley Posted March 7, 2013 Share #35 Posted March 7, 2013 Larry, I found the titebond transparent at Rockler Woodworking. The guy said they carried it for quite a while... never noticed it before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lb0190 Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share #36 Posted March 7, 2013 That's good to hear. I contacted titebond and they told me no one in Florida carries that product - amazon was the easy solution for me. Quote Regards, Larry ---------------------------------------------------- Current Build US Brig Niagara Completed Builds George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat Future Builds 18th Century Longboat by MS HM Cutter Cheerful Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardt Posted March 7, 2013 Share #37 Posted March 7, 2013 (edited) Hi Guys, As you well know, Larry and I are trying to develop some reference material on adhesives and you will be introduced to the result in due course. We will be calling on your knowledge and input in due course and I thank those who have already expressed some of their views in the meantime. However, I am concerned about the information requested pertaining to medical issues. We are not qualified to comment on this and it will not form a part of our research. However I can provide some background on what I know and accept to be truthful: The substance emanates from research into low m.w. esterification conducted by the Eastman Chemical Co. about 80 years ago. An accident with one of the intermediate products landed in the eyes of a lab technician whose eyes were immediately glued closed from, as it was later discovered, the presence of water that activates the adhesive properties and even the minimal pressure exerted by the closing eyelids that set up sufficient pressure to promote adhesion. The only action that could be taken was to open the eyes by surgery. This story was told to me a long while back by a senior staff member of Eastman and I had no reason to disbelieve him. Alarmed as Eastman may have been, they immediately saw the potential value of the substance and it was put on the market soon afterwards and was called Eastman 910. More recently it would appear that patents expired and there was a prolification of new producers with similar products. These are what we call CA (cyanoacrylate) adhesives. Slight modifications by the new manufacturers led to the production of products with varying degrees of viscosity. Selective additives also produced substances with gap filling properties and other desireable properties that make them attractive to hobbyists. The thin very mobile product was the first and the initial application was, ironically, medically related because it was used to seal wounds instead of using sutures in certain instances. I am not aware of any specific toxicology studies and other than a temporary reaction to contact with the skin, it does not seem to have any lasting negative effects. This is not the the case with inhalation of the fumes and I urge all to avoid this under all circumstances. There are many reports of allergies that should be brought to the attention of your doctor. I am also led to believe that fumes generated by burning CA are particularly dangerous. In this respect, many modellers make a small fork from grinding back the eye of a needle to produce two tines. This is useful to lift and transport a small droplet of the material. There is no harm in this but do not burn the excess off the needle and inhale the smoke. I urge you to use the substance in the smallest possible quantity of the material and never take the bottle to your model. Always use a suitable disposable surface from where you can lift the required quantiy. The fumes of the material are suffocating and reaction to the smallest trace in the atmosphere will alert you to its presence. Take due care. Richard Edited March 7, 2013 by richardt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shazmira Posted March 9, 2013 Share #38 Posted March 9, 2013 Hi has anyone found a cure to CA allergy? I only have to use for a couple of minutes and I suffer for the next 2 days Maltbyguy. If I use super glue or crazy glue I too suffer from allergy symptoms. My throat and sinuses completely close up up on me making breathing difficult. I have used the CA glue from pro adhesives, the same one from the link Long9ron posted on the first page of this thread; I have of course, regardless of how careful I was managed to get this CA glue on my skin and have suffered none of the usual reactions to it that store-bought super glue causes. So as lamarvally sggested, it is possible that the "specialty" glue has different components or at least a different mixture that makes a difference. I have also found I do not have the same allergic reaction to the glue used to put on fake fingernails....however, I am not so sure that particular glue has the permanent holding power of CA glue, but could be used to hold quickly in place while a PVA glue was used for the permanent bonding. Quote Robbyn If you risk nothing, you risk everything! Current builds Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0 AL San Francisco II Mordaunt (Euro Model) Completed Builds 18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro In the closet Battle Station Al Charles Morgan (1980s version) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
realworkingsailor Posted March 9, 2013 Share #39 Posted March 9, 2013 I've found one thing that helps with the respiratory issues of CA is air flow. I have a ceiling fan that I keep running when I'm doing some major CA work like coppering. There are many different grades of CA, most of the cheaper ones at hobby shops or hardware stores are more volatile and allergy inducing. I've heard (but can't confirm) that the surgical grades of CA are better for people with allergies. Of course you could take Yon's approach and go with a full on respirator and rubber gloves. Andy Quote Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati Current Build: USF Confederacy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normanh Posted March 17, 2013 Share #40 Posted March 17, 2013 The strange fact is CA is not classified as either hazardous for industrial uses in both the USA and UK for health and safety purposes - check on google! Quote Norman Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck. Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake. Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamarvalley Posted March 17, 2013 Share #41 Posted March 17, 2013 Well, an object doesn't have to be listed as hazardous for an individual to have an allergic reaction. For example... felines... not listed, yet I still suffer. All in all however, there is a difference between allergy and irritation. CA glue is obnoxious in odor and even though I don't 'react' to it when I use it, I crave some fresh air afterwards to clean out the lungs, especially if I have to use the activator. I'm fine but it's not a pleasant product to breathe and just like Andy said, air flow is really helpful to help spread those fumes around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lb0190 Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share #42 Posted March 17, 2013 Virtually any material (solid, liquid, gas etc.), must have an MSDS (material safety data sheet) made available by the manufacturer (in the USA, I'm not sure how this may apply elsewhere). As an example if a paint manufacturer makes 50 different colors of the same type water base acrylic, they must have an MSDS for each color. This includes a separate MSDS for every brand and every type item. This is the best source to get information regarding the safety of use for an item. Below is a link for one type brand of CA glue, http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/msds/ca-adhesives-msds.pdf In my opinion it's always useful to read MSDS for a substance you plan on using. It's not uncommon for some people to become sensitized to some material, causing an allergic reaction even with a minor exposure. In many cases it's caused by heavy or long term exposure, but that is not always the cause. In case your bored silly and would like to read about it, here is an interesting link: http://blogs.howstuffworks.com/2010/07/09/how-sensitization-works-becoming-allergic-or-sensitized-to-common-chemicals-can-be-a-nightmare/ The main thing is to be safe and take precautions as needed. I apologize for being on the soapbox... Quote Regards, Larry ---------------------------------------------------- Current Build US Brig Niagara Completed Builds George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat Future Builds 18th Century Longboat by MS HM Cutter Cheerful Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_engr Posted March 18, 2013 Share #43 Posted March 18, 2013 Larry, et. al, This is a very interesting thread. For one, I am probably newer to wooden ship building than most here, so I count everyone as a valuable resource. Second, this topic of CA/glue allergies or reactions is a first I've heard of, and I wonder how prevalent it is amongst us hobbyists. This is definitely something that one should consider when taking up a hobby or using an unfamiliar material/chemical (makes me more paranoid about using my Blacken-It, therefore precautions will most certainly be taken). (Also, I wonder if there are wood or material reactions for people as well, since a lot of woods come from foreign locations....) As for me, I usually use CA glue for the majority of my build (good/bad??), but I need to try some alternatives so I have more tools at my disposal and have more flexibility. I like the idea of the forked sewing needle- I'm getting tired of picking dry glue from my fingers!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSiemens Posted March 18, 2013 Share #44 Posted March 18, 2013 (edited) A little discussion about CA versus wood glue came up in my modeling club the other day. Some one said that they heard that CA glue comes apart after ten years. I didn't get a definitive source but has any one heard anything similar? It would be a real pain if all my ships were to start falling apart ten years from now. Edited March 18, 2013 by DSiemens Quote Daniel We're ship in bottle builders, it's an occupational hazard. www.siemensbottlingco.blogspot.com http://www.bottledshipbuilder.com Current Builds: Bermuda Sloop Wood Krafters Pirate Ship Completed: 20 Gun Frigate Olympic 470 Bermuda Sloop Super Mini Queen Anne's Revenge German Cutter Mercury Santa Maria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rameyke Posted March 18, 2013 Share #45 Posted March 18, 2013 What I like best is using flat (matte) Testors dullcote lacquer. A mini-drop will dry flat and totally invisible and will hold your knots without making the thread brittle, or leaving a shiny or white spot, as sometimes happens with CA. There may be an acrylic equivalent but this has worked wonderfully for me. I try to avoid CA in my shipbuilding at all costs. Not because of allergies, mind you. I just don't like it much. Vallejo paints makes an acrylic version of this in both their Model Color and Game Color lines. It comes in a dropper bottle too. So its really easy to apply directly where you want it. I have used their paints in my other hobbies and think they are great. I have not tried it on rigging, but I imagine if Testors Dullcote works, then the Vallejo Model Color Matte varnish would do well with easier clean up and no smell. Quote Current Build: US Brig Syren by Model Shipways Previous Build: AL Swift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shazmira Posted March 18, 2013 Share #46 Posted March 18, 2013 The question is, does it hold as glue does a part that needs to be attached to the ship? Quote Robbyn If you risk nothing, you risk everything! Current builds Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0 AL San Francisco II Mordaunt (Euro Model) Completed Builds 18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro In the closet Battle Station Al Charles Morgan (1980s version) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
augie Posted March 18, 2013 Share #47 Posted March 18, 2013 A little discussion about CA versus wood glue came up in my modeling club the other day. Some one said that they heard that CA glue comes apart after ten years. I didn't get a definitive source but has any one heard anything similar? It would be a real pain if all my ships were to start falling apart ten years from now. Dan- CA glue does NOT fail over time unless it is not applied correctly to begin with. I have been using it for over 20 years on RC model aircraft which take a LOT more stress then our ship models and have never had a stress failure. In fact close scrutiny of the damage caused by unanticipated ground contact (AKA crash) indicates that the wood itself will fail before the glue joints. Quote Augie Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64 Previous Builds : US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery) Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery) Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988 Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976 Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSiemens Posted March 19, 2013 Share #48 Posted March 19, 2013 Dan- CA glue does NOT fail over time unless it is not applied correctly to begin with. I have been using it for over 20 years on RC model aircraft which take a LOT more stress then our ship models and have never had a stress failure. In fact close scrutiny of the damage caused by unanticipated ground contact (AKA crash) indicates that the wood itself will fail before the glue joints. That's very reassuring. Thanks. Quote Daniel We're ship in bottle builders, it's an occupational hazard. www.siemensbottlingco.blogspot.com http://www.bottledshipbuilder.com Current Builds: Bermuda Sloop Wood Krafters Pirate Ship Completed: 20 Gun Frigate Olympic 470 Bermuda Sloop Super Mini Queen Anne's Revenge German Cutter Mercury Santa Maria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonborger Posted April 1, 2013 Share #49 Posted April 1, 2013 I use CA gel based and c23 balsa cement. The CA gel is much easier to use than the liquid form, and it doesn't sink into the grains to the same degree. For planking I put CA gel on the middle of the planks and the c23 along the edges. Wiping off the extra c23. Seems to work well. Quote Kits owned: Mamoli Royal Louis, Mamoli Friesland, Mamoli HMS Victory 1:90, Occre Santisima Trinidad, Constructo HMS Prince Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wthilgen Posted April 11, 2013 Share #50 Posted April 11, 2013 I use Elmer's carpenter glue (white), CA (super glue) and wooden tooth picks for application. I small amount of glue in condiment dispensers I get from Burger King. I keep my CA glue in fridge (ice box for you aged ones). Pour small amount in dispenser, make sure it is room temp before applying. Same goes with paint. Quote Current Build: La Nina, Latina - Wood / 1:65 On The Shelf: San Francisco II, Latina - Wood 1/90, U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic / 1:96 (Remake), H.M.S. Bounty, Latina - Wood / 1:48, H.M.S. /Mayflower, Latina - Wood / 1:64, La Pinta, Latina, Latina - Wood / 1:65, La Santa Maria, Latina - Wood / 1:65, Completed: San Francisco / Cross Section, Latina - Wood / 1:50, Coastal Submarine, Revell - Plastic / 1:144, Cutty Sark Wall Plaque, Revell - Plastic / 1:50, H.M.S. Victory, Revell - Plastic / 1:146, H.M.S. Bounty, Constructo - Wood / 1:50, Oseberg, Billings Boats - Wood / 1:25, Clipper Ship (Sea Witch), Unknown - Wood / 1:46, U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic / 1:96, Man Of War, Scientific - Wood / 1:50, Robert E. Lee, Scientific - Wood / 1:45, PT-109, Revell - Plastic / 1:72, U.S.S. Enterprise, Revell - Plastic / 1:720, R.M.S. Titanic, Revell - Plastic / 1:720, Numerous other wooded tall ships and boats from companies named: Ideal, Dumas, Pyro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter Biles Posted May 7, 2013 Share #51 Posted May 7, 2013 When I was in the navy, I got sensitive to fiberglass activator. I had been doing fiberglass repairs to their boats for about 9 months. I began to have a prickly sensation everytime around my nose, and in the hair on the back of my neck and around my ears which originally I attributed to the glass particles I sanded out of the boat. After several months more I began noticing that every time I opened the activator bottle to activate some resin, I would get hit with those symptoms immediately. It felt like my hair became prickly. Eventually I mentioned it to my chief petty officer in charge of my shop. One day not long after, another chief and the tool room attendant had me involved in conversation in the tool room and the chief was working in his office on the other side of a partition. I began feeling that irritation, and started scratching my hair and blowing my nose, and out walks the chief with a bottle of activator he was closing. He decided to check me out. By then my eyes were itching, and I was beginning to esperience nasal congestion. He took me out of the building for some fresh air. It was then that we moved all fiberglass work outside. He put me in a supervisory capacity and had me try to teach the skill to 9 other people. He put me on rubber gloves when I handled any of the stuff, and a respirator around the training. I soon got a change of assignment within the department. Epoxy has never affected me that way, yet, so I just steer clear of fiberglassing. I too am not very comfortable when I use any CA. It is a little too close to the earlier experience for me. I favor safety precautions. Walter Biles thibaultron 1 Quote Current: America Schooner https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/10887-america-schooner-pof-by-walter-biles-radio-pof-scale-148-from-blue-jacket-plan/ Prior: MERIDEA https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/140-meridea-by-walter-biles-radio-34-scratch-cad-of-boat-at-usn-severn-river-repair-station-ca-1969/ SAMSON First build: Scratch POF Spanish Galleon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brick75 Posted October 3, 2013 Share #52 Posted October 3, 2013 For some reason, CA glue (Permanex Super Glue) not bonding planking to the frames. Need quick dry adhesive to bond the planking where clamping will not fit. Any ideas?? Brick75 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsolka Posted March 17, 2015 Share #53 Posted March 17, 2015 This is a great forum. I'm new to ship models, and didn't even know that there is the whole world of gluing products and techniques. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jparsley Posted April 11, 2015 Share #54 Posted April 11, 2015 I'm having a problem with ca thick and thin adhering my first layer of planking to my second layer it just won't stick Any ideas what's wrong both are bare wood one Ramon wood the other I believe is walnut Quote USF Constellation 1/85 AL Jparsley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornet Posted April 11, 2015 Share #55 Posted April 11, 2015 (edited) Brick75 and Jparsley. Buy or make yourself some planking screws and use titebond or quick dry PVA when planking. CA is more trouble than it is worth when planking. Home made planking screws shown on thread below. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3734-planking-screws-moved-by-moderator/ Edited April 11, 2015 by hornet Quote Hornet Current Build: - OcCre Shackleton’s Endurance. Completed Ship Builds: Caldercraft - HM Bark Endeavour. (in Gallery) Caldercraft - HMAV Bounty (in Gallery) Caldercraft - HM Brig Supply (In Gallery) Aeropiccola - Golden Hind - Constitution Clipper Seawitch (maker unknown - too long ago to remember!) Corel - Victory Modeller's Shipyard - A Schooner of Port Jackson - In Gallery - Brig `Perseverance' - In Gallery - Cutter `Mermaid'- In Gallery - Sirius Longboat (bashed) - In Gallery - Sloop Norfolk - In Gallery Completed Cannon: - French 18th Century Naval Cannon - Napoleonic 12 pound field piece - English 18th Century Carronade Non Ship Builds - Sopwith Camel - Artesania Latina - Fokker DR1 - Artesania Latina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Page Posted April 12, 2015 Share #56 Posted April 12, 2015 WOW! At last a great adhesive forum. Since we all use them youi would have thought it would have popped up faster but who cares its here and for a newbie it has really helped. My hands are getting bad with arthritis and Dupentry Contraction but I still love to build and tips given have helped me from getting all glued up and enjoying the craft a lot more. What is Fish Glue and Liquid Hide Glue? Where would you find it? Great Forum and thanks for starting it. Page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightingale Posted May 17, 2015 Share #57 Posted May 17, 2015 A concern I have with all foods as well as the paints, glues etc. we use in every day life is the frequency the manufacturers change the ingredients without warning. what is non toxic today is toxic to some tomorrow. White glue for now is a lot safer to use than many or most or the alternatives. I'm to old and to new to this wonderful hobby to be restricted because of an unknown toxic material use in my production. My shop is an enclosed 10x10 room. I have a fan blowing air from a small opening in the window toward me with an exhaust fan above me. Stay informed and I thank each and every one for a wonderful site. ....Nightingale lb0190 and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzy Madd Posted July 20, 2015 Share #58 Posted July 20, 2015 Now I can see why I have to spend so much time cleaning up excess glue! It looks like you put just the right amount on, whereas I slap it on, for fear of not getting enough in the right place. I try to clean it up before it hardens, but the clamps squeeze some out when they are tightened, and then make access for cleaning difficult. I assume the the white residue you get when surplus glue hardens will look bad when the varnish goes on, so I try to remove it. If you over clamp any joint you'll get what's called a dry joint in joinery. Basically no glue left in the gap. It can be eased by further clamping. But this is just creating suction and wishful thinking. Best is to ensure an even coat old loyalty cards or credit cards are ideal. Then clamp until you get and even amount oozing out. If it's PVA. Let it set until like cottage cheese. Then scrape off. That way it's less likely to smear. Also for PVA and the dreaded CA acetone will clean it up so as to remove the chance of staining. Also in thirty odd years of cabinetmaking I found using a damp cloth as recommended to clean PVA just made the stai bigger. And it was better to cut it of at the rubbery stage. IMO mtaylor, thibaultron and Canute 3 Quote Ongoing builds, SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie) Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis) Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzy Madd Posted July 20, 2015 Share #59 Posted July 20, 2015 WOW! At last a great adhesive forum. Since we all use them youi would have thought it would have popped up faster but who cares its here and for a newbie it has really helped. My hands are getting bad with arthritis and Dupentry Contraction but I still love to build and tips given have helped me from getting all glued up and enjoying the craft a lot more. What is Fish Glue and Liquid Hide Glue? Where would you find it? Great Forum and thanks for starting it. Page Fish glue also called isinglass and animal or hide glue are traditional glues used from the dawn of joinery. Both are easily found on the web. Titbond and franklins do a ready mixed version that's had good reports. Or you can buy it the old way as small pearls and soak in water and heat to no more than 80c. Then you have about thirty seconds to get it on the wood and get it clamped. Before it sets like glass. But it can be loosened and even removed by heat/steam. For a first time user ID stick with the ready made. Use it like PVA. Sticks like epoxy. Basically the same for fish glue. But as always every glue has its purposes. If you have an old fashioned hardware store near you they will be your best bet as they will know what they sell and how to use it. As well as the next best. But 90% of the time hide glue. The rest PVA or PVA and water. And unless it's metal to metal don't use CA. As it crystallises over time and fails. And degrades with moisture such as humidity. And will wick or soak down any porous material ruining it. Or just runs of hard surfaces. It's only good for what it was invented for. Sticking soldiers back together before evak to a MASH unit. In Vietnam. Then it doesn't work long. IMO thibaultron and Canute 2 Quote Ongoing builds, SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie) Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis) Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbshan Posted July 20, 2015 Share #60 Posted July 20, 2015 (edited) A couple of items: Fish Glue and Hide Glue are made from, you guessed it, fish and hides, as well as hooves and antlers. Hence a dead horse is 'sent to the glue factory'. The collagen in them, when processed properly, acts as an adhesive. They were used in cabinetry, and when I was in College we used hide glue sometimes on theatrical scenery, to hold the canvas to the wooden framework. CA doesn't fail to hold, it more dissolves things like cloth and thread, so go ahead and use it on your rigging, but I'll refrain, if you don't mind. Edited July 21, 2015 by jbshan Canute 1 Quote Joel Sanborn http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9953-lexington-by-jbshan-dlumberyard-164-from-the-seaways-practicum-by-clay-feldman/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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