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primer in spray cans?


vossy

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hi all, has anybody had experience with using primer in rattle cans for plastic models? apparently tamiya make a thin primer which is supposed to be ok. have an air gun on the way but the build i'm following used crc primer from a rattle can. any help greatly appreciated.

 

link to build log  http://www.florymodels.co.uk/trumperter-1200-bismark-1/

 

i'm an industrial/commercial painter by trade so have vast experience with spray systems but as far as rattle cans go i find they mostly splutter and clog up and you can't get a good even flow. perhaps tamiya thin is different or stefans crc?

 

cheers chris

 

 

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Tuffarts summed it up nicely. 

 

I use the gray for a first and sanding pass, or under flat black, the white for finer detail and under brighter colors. 

 

All Tamiya TS (water borne lacquer) spray cans yield a nice, fine spray, but also work well when decanted (spray though a soda straw into a cup) and used in an airbrush. 

 

Just don't leave airbrush parts in lacquer thinner too long while cleaning, as it will eventually eat the o-rings... (ask me how I know :( )

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Tamiya does sell Mr. Surfacer 1000 in a spray can and its great stuff.  I cannot get Mr. Surfacer easily and prefer to use automotive spray primer from the auto store.  It comes in light gray, dark gray, black, and white and both fine and heavy filling application.  Never had any problems on styrene or resin. 

 

Current Builds:  Revell 1:96 Thermopylae Restoration

                           Revell 1:96 Constitution COMPLETED

                           Aeropiccola HMS Endeavor IN ORDINARY

Planned Builds: Scientific Sea Witch

                            Marine Models USF Essex

                            

 

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hi all, has anybody had experience with using primer in rattle cans for plastic models? apparently tamiya make a thin primer which is supposed to be ok. have an air gun on the way but the build i'm following used crc primer from a rattle can. any help greatly appreciated.

 

link to build log  http://www.florymodels.co.uk/trumperter-1200-bismark-1/

 

i'm an industrial/commercial painter by trade so have vast experience with spray systems but as far as rattle cans go i find they mostly splutter and clog up and you can't get a good even flow. perhaps tamiya thin is different or stefans crc?

 

cheers chris

Tamiya fine white or gray primer is one of the best primers there is. I use it quite a bit (white) - it has great coverage and works very well. Never any need to heat it or the like. When I am lazy on some models, I use that as white in some areas. Dries very smooth. Excellent stuff. Both the white and greay can't be beat - I have used them on a lot of models, and also have used them to great success on planes that require a NMF finish - if you have ever used Alclad products, you  know that they demand a smooth surface...

 

Mr. Surfacer (made by Gunze-Sangyo) is only available in spray in the 1200 form. I have heard good stuff about it, but have only used Mr. Surfacer 500 as of yet (and applied it with a brush).

Edited by Spaceman Spiff
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Ahoy Chris :D

 

One of the biggest mistakes people make is not shaking the can enough. The hot water trick is good but if the paint is not properly mixed its worthless. If you can still lift either one of your arms its not shaken enough.  

 

I use an airbrush now but when I used rattle cans I would tape them to a long sawsall blade and run the tool for at least 5 minutes. Before this brainstorm I would go for long walks with my spray can. I am not sure I would recommend the walk method today.  

 

Proper shaking makes a big difference in the particle size, finish, splatter and clogging. Works for the color coat too. Heat it and you can achieve coats only an airbrush can top. Well someone whose good with an airbrush and that's another can of worms.

 

Another mistake which I am sure you know about but I will mention it for others is how far away you spray from your work. This distance will change depending on the weather and where you paint. You want the paint to be wet when it hits the model. If its drying in the air and then landing on your kit you will get what's called "orange peel". Your paint will look like the surface of an orange. Too close too thick. This is especially important for primers and flats that dry fast.

 

Good luck, its a beautiful kit

Edited by JPett

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-model-shipways-rattlesnake-ms2028-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/939-1949-chris-craft-racer-by-jpett-dumas-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

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g'day all,

               would just like to say thanks to everyone who has replied to my question about primers in spray cans. your

insights are greatly appreciated. i have ordered the mk1 design super deluxe upgrade kit for this build and hopefully

it will arrive later this week or early next week. i can then begin to put the pe eyebrows and steps on the hull and then

the moment of truth for the rattle cans (assuming i can get tamiya grey super thin primer from melbourne). am also

scouring the net for a good quality affordable airbrush and compressor (which i reckon is probably even more important

than the gun itself - certainly a lot more expensive). a bit of a problem for us aussies is the crap dollar exchange rate

we have at the moment. don't know about other aussies here but i buy a lot of stuff from overseas specially a place i found

in the uk called snmstuff. seriously it was cheaper postage from the uk to aus for 68 dollars worth of goods than from melbourne

to ballarat (where i live) for the same order (exactly the same order). the uk postage was 3 pounds, the australian postage to

send it 100 km was 11 dollars. also it took only 7 days to get to my door from the uk. i very highly recommend them. anyway i

digress.

 

cheers chris 

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g'day tuffarts, i use bna a lot as you say they are cheap and quick. unfortunately their range of tamiya

primers is out of stock and has been for quite a while. bna is where i finally got the mk1 upgrade kit

(which i believe is currently sitting at the sunshine west mail centre). hopefully they renew their paint

cans soon.

 

cheers chris

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I've used their red on plastic and resin kits, no problem with adhering. Good brick color and OK for some lower hulls of ships (IJN, AFAIR). And it's a thin coat. :)

 

Of course, I only spray this stuff outside and mask/glove up.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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There is a car primer that is good for plastic, in fact for plastic only and grey/white are the main colours, but for most subjects that's all you need.

 

This though is only  in UK at Halfords store.

 

Not sure if its over the pond.

 

foxy :piratebo5:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tamiya primer is the best rattlecan primer for models but it's also overpriced. I use it (as well as primer applied from an airbrush) on smaller detail areas. You can use regular primer, just get sandable filling primer. There is a type sold at walmart that says it's for plastic and it seems to work great.

Edited by channell
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