Peaksol Posted January 22, 2015 Share #1 Posted January 22, 2015 I am building wooden model houses. In my current project i need a number of planks of width 0.02". For this tiny dimension i am using boxwood. To rip the planks i have a proxxon ks 230 mini table saw. I am struggling to achieve the exact width. It starts out correctly but gets thinner or thicker along the length. I have tried both to saw the thin plank between the blade and the fence and to have the plank "open" on the outside of the blade. Is this saw suitable for the task (i have a challenge) or is this a tool problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyCity Frankie Posted January 22, 2015 Share #2 Posted January 22, 2015 I have no experience with table top hobby saws, but on a full size table saw I would say you need featherboards, which are easy enough to make from scrap: http://www.google.com/images?client=safari&rls=en&q=featherboard&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ei=yXvBVKqcMau1sQSr_IKYAQ&ved=0CCkQsAQ mtaylor 1 Quote Quote Niagara USS Constitution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael mott Posted January 22, 2015 Share #3 Posted January 22, 2015 What sort of blades are you using? Michael Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted January 23, 2015 Share #4 Posted January 23, 2015 Peaksol, I don't have a Proxxen but a Micromark which is similar. Here's my method: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9312-need-advice-with-byrnes-saw/?p=274646 It's repeatable and consistent. Just make sure that the blade doesn't get hot since it will distort. tkay11 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaksol Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share #5 Posted January 23, 2015 Thanks all for feedback! I am using a slitting blade. My fingers are my featherboards, maybe a bit dangerous but it works...... When I read the instructions, I see that I may have done the error of pressing sideways towards the blade rather than only pressing sideways before the wood piece reaches the blade. The methods I have tried are both the Bill Sorenson method and the other one. What remains to try is the tape or similar to make more space for the ripped plank between the blade and the fence. An update will come when I have tried that with the correct pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaksol Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share #6 Posted January 27, 2015 I tried a thin piece of wood glued to the fence. See pic no 1. Here I rip a 1" X 0,2" boxwood down to 0,2" X 0,02" Then I made a small and right size block to apply the pressure correctly. I also changed the blade. It was dull. After this it is quite accurate and consistent, although it becomes slightly thinner along the length. I also made a mini-mini construction to rip further from 0.2" X 0.02" down to 0.02" X 0.02". See pic no 2. The "featherboards" are boxwood, the rest of the construction is scandinavian pine. GuntherMT 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgbot Posted January 27, 2015 Share #7 Posted January 27, 2015 Sounds like uneven pressure on the piece being cut plus using a slitting blade you have to be consistent with the feed rate so the blade does not warp or shift on you. I am using a Preac all the time and this is what I found out with slotting blades. They were designed for cutting metal and are very thin. David Warner of Warner Woods gave a demo on sharpening his slotting blades and this helped keep everything running smooh also helped with the accuracy of the cut as well. David B Quote Work in progress USS Maine in cardstock.http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7446-uss-maine-by-dgbot-hmv-card/#entry220003 Completed Blockade runner Teazer http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6063-blockade-runner-teazer-by-dgbot-card-stock/#entry175967 Completed The Monitor Lehigh http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6920-the-monitor-lehigh-by-dgbot-card-model/#entry203680 Completed Kingston Class MCVD http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/10-kit-build-logs-in-progress/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted January 28, 2015 Share #8 Posted January 28, 2015 I agree with what David said. Also, your block on the fence is too far back. It should end just past the front edge of the blade. I reset my block depending on how high the blade is out of the saw. The blade should be about 1/16" above the top of the wood. What seems to be happening is the back of the blade is causing the plank to rise up and be thinned down after the cut. It's a trial and error process to find out what works best for you. Just make sure to keep your fingers away from the blade.. getting cut by them tosses blood everywhere and they hurt a lot. I found out the hard way during a moment's inattention. Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dziadeczek Posted January 28, 2015 Share #9 Posted January 28, 2015 (edited) Try using a thicker blade. If you are using a very thin slitting blade, it gets hot very quickly and soft - subsequently it bends and you get uneven cuts. Thicker blade won't heat up quickly, will stay cooler and will cut evenly, even though you'll waste a bit more material due to thickness of blade. Edited January 28, 2015 by Dziadeczek mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgbot Posted January 28, 2015 Share #10 Posted January 28, 2015 (edited) On the Preac the blade is thin. As result I was careless and cut my finger. A fine slice and I learned about using a push stick or block even on something as small as a 3 inch blade. You can do some damage to yourself. End result on both the Preac and the Byrnes saw I tend to use push blocks. David B Edited January 28, 2015 by dgbot mtaylor 1 Quote Work in progress USS Maine in cardstock.http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7446-uss-maine-by-dgbot-hmv-card/#entry220003 Completed Blockade runner Teazer http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6063-blockade-runner-teazer-by-dgbot-card-stock/#entry175967 Completed The Monitor Lehigh http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6920-the-monitor-lehigh-by-dgbot-card-model/#entry203680 Completed Kingston Class MCVD http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/10-kit-build-logs-in-progress/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Griffith Posted January 28, 2015 Share #11 Posted January 28, 2015 Good tips, all. Jeff at the Hobby Mill also has a great tip: see http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php on this forum. Good luck, keep your fingers clear of the blade and have fun. Duff dgbot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.