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Is there a better #11 blade handle


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Is there a better handle for holding the #11 blade?  X-acto and other similar holders are not doing it for me. I wear them out and the blades get loose.  I believe the issues are that the machining is not fine enough and the tolerances are too great.  Keep in mind we only spend between 6 and 11 bucks which problably also explains it.   So, is there a better knife handle out there waiting for my money.

 

Phil

Phil Roach

Former Director, Nautical Research Guild

Member Shipmodeler's Guild Southwest Florida

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Phil,

 

I use scalpel blades and scalpel handles.  I've had my current scalpel handles for many years.

 

Just a tip - don't buy from a surgical supply house - they charge like wounded buffaloes; some hobby shops sell genuine scalpel blades and handles, itherwaise you can get them a bit cheaper (for the same product) than at surgical suppliers by going to a veterinary supply place.

 

John

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A scalpel handle is the only thing for scalpel blades. Tip: use a pair of pliers when changing blades: it's much safer than fingers!

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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The Tamia knives are great 

There is 2 in there range, 1 is called the designer knife this is the smaller of the 2 

The other knife(not sure name) is slightly smaller than the #11, but it is sharper out of the box and holds an edge well (It is made in Japan).

The designer knife is smaller but has a metal clamp.

I use both constantly, and the blade replacements are cheap enough if bought from right supplier.

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Is there a better handle for holding the #11 blade?  X-acto and other similar holders are not doing it for me. I wear them out and the blades get loose.  I believe the issues are that the machining is not fine enough and the tolerances are too great.  Keep in mind we only spend between 6 and 11 bucks which problably also explains it.   So, is there a better knife handle out there waiting for my money.

 

Phil

Swan Morton has or had a handle covered with some kind of blue plastic.

A lot easier to handle and much more comfortable.

post-184-0-92030400-1424021963_thumb.jpg

Edited by Gaetan Bordeleau
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I know this is going to open Pandora's Box, but I use the old Exacto knifes in a rubber handled holder and never had a problem of the blade slipping, etc. I don' t remember where or when I got this holder, but it should not be that unusual.

 

What I do want to mention is that I don't change blades that often. I find it easier and quicker to give the edge and tip of the blade a quick touch up with a diamond coated 'brush'. It works for me B)

post-246-0-35134700-1423972552_thumb.jpg

 

Jay

 

Current build Cross Section USS Constitution  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10120-cross-section-forward-area-of-the-uss-constitution/

Finished USS Constitution:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/103-uss-constitution-by-modeler12/

 

'A picture is worth a  . . . . .'      More is better . . . .

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Jay,

Not sure where you got that particular one but I picked up one that looks just like it at Harbor Freight yesterday. It's in a "deluxe hobby knife kit" with three other holders and about 25 types of blades. It's on sale at mine for $14 USD. Don't think the blades will last long, good aftermarket blades are readily available.

 

I particularly like the little rubber nubbin on the side that keeps it from rolling off the bench into ones foot!

 

Jerry

Edited by justsayrow

 

====================================

Currently building: Model Expo AMERICA, A/L KING OF THE MISSISSIPPI

 

Completed: Mamoli Victory cross-section, Revell LSM (Plastic, in memory of Dad), A/L SANSON tug, MS Longboat (awesome model Chuck!), Dumas 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing runabout, A/L SWIFT, MS ELSIE, Constructo ELIDIR (now LOUISE), Midwest Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack, Amati 1:80 Yacht ENDEAVOUR, Mamoli CONSTITUTION cross section, Revell VIIc U-boat (1:72 plastic), lotsa other plastic ships 

 

Next up: who knows - there are too many to choose from!

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Phil:

I have switched over to scalpel handles and blades.. The metal handle is much preferred over the plastic handle but the guy who recommended I switch swears by the plastic handles.  Ebay has these for less than $10 each and you can also get the blades on ebay.  The blades shown are Swann-Morton #25a.  A #11 surgical blade is nothing like the X-Acto #11's.  The jeweler's tool category will be your best category to search on ebay.

 

Also, somebody said to use pliers to change the blades.  Heed that advice.  Do not try it with any fingers you want to use for several weeks.  No need for sterilized blades unless you try to change blades using your fingers.

 

Kurt

post-177-0-65865700-1424015145_thumb.jpg

Kurt Van Dahm

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Greetings Phil,

 

I have X-Acto handles that are at least 25 years old and they still hold blades about as well as when new. I think the difference is that X-Acto tools were exclusively made in the USA back then. It is my understanding that some (maybe all) of their stuff is made in China now, which explains the drop off in quality. I will gladly pay more for items made in USA, or Europe, or Japan for that matter, if available. In my opinion, most items made in China are junk and not worth the powder to blow them to hell. I wish suppliers were more forthright about where their products were made. I have been disappointed many times when I receive a product and find the dreaded words "Made in China" on it.

 

wq3296

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I vote for a genuine surgical No. 4 handle.  It will also hold Nos. 10, 15, and 12 blade styles.  And as mentioned above, always use a tool to grasp the blade while changing.

 

Incidentally, I find that a new No. 11 blade is very useful for removing splinters. Wipe the blade with rubbing alcohol.  If the end of the splinter is above the skin, then usually a scalpel blade can catch it and pull it out.  If not, don't squeeze the skin; just gently cut straight down with the scalpel to expose the splinter, and use the point of the blade to extract it.  Another useful implement is the tweezer from a Victorinox Swiss Army knife (really!) 

 

If a splinter is buried underneath the skin, or is 'through-and-through' a finger, then do not wait --- seek help immediately at the Emergency Department of your local hospital.   Inflammation from the foreign body  will make it much more painful to extract the splinter, and inflammation will greatly prolong the healing process. (if you don't believe me, then ask me how I know this).

Edited by Bob Blarney
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I frequently see someone say "I just swipe it across my whetstone and it is as good as new"....And I have looked for a good demonstration on how to sharpen a blade (knife, chisel, whatever) and have tried all the techniques and still have dull blades.  I'd love to see a simple foolproof method of sharpening #11 blades, sprue cutters, chisels and scissors.  Any one want to try...or suggest one they swear by???  O suggest a mechanical sharpener that works,,,,Please and thank you.

 

 

Tom

 

Guess I need to edit this....I understand that the technique for sharpening a chisel is different than the technique to sharpen a blade which is different than sharpening sprue cutters.  But there must be ways than can done with simple straight instructions probably with pictures [0)

Edited by twintrow
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Ahoy Phil :D

 

I put a single wrap of Tamiya tape where the knurled lock down knob meets the handle. This is all it takes to prevent it from backing off, keeping the blade firmly in the jaw.

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-model-shipways-rattlesnake-ms2028-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/939-1949-chris-craft-racer-by-jpett-dumas-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

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Get a good leather strope with gold polishing compound. This extends the life of all my blades. I also do what JPett does with the tape.

Pandora's box is officially opened

Eric

 

Current build(s) ;

AL San Francisco II

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/862-san-francisco-2-by-eric-al-190-sport29652/

 

MS Rattlesnake

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/868-rattlesnake-by-eric-model-shipways-164-sport29652/page-2

 

Sitting on the shelf : MS Constitution, MS Sultana,

 

Wish List : MS Essex, Confederacy, and Syren, and a Victory kit by someone ?

 

"80% of the time it works every time."

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Well, I guess the votes are in.  There is no better X-acto handle than the ones I have.  However, not being able to resist the urge to buy something today, I put my money down on a Tamiya Hobby Knife Pro.  Its twice or more than and X-Acto.  Perhaps its actually made in Japan.   I have also decided that I will explore the surgical options.  Its hard to beat  the #11 for price.   I toss my blades very often.  I learned along time ago that a dull blade was a danger to my health.

 

Phil

Phil Roach

Former Director, Nautical Research Guild

Member Shipmodeler's Guild Southwest Florida

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Well, I guess the votes are in.  There is no better X-acto handle than the ones I have.  However, not being able to resist the urge to buy something today, I put my money down on a Tamiya Hobby Knife Pro.  Its twice or more than and X-Acto.  Perhaps its actually made in Japan.   I have also decided that I will explore the surgical options.  Its hard to beat  the #11 for price.   I toss my blades very often.  I learned along time ago that a dull blade was a danger to my health.

 

Phil

You will be happy with the knife, it is made in Japan so quality is great.

Surgical blades are sharper but they are also more fragile and tend to break if used with too much force.

The Tamia blades are good compromise between sharpness and strength.

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Phil,

 

You don't "steel" your blades to keep them sharp?   I wish I could find it (maybe it was before the crash) but Dan Vadas had a post about using the back of an old blade to steel the one lost it's sharpness.   Takes a few minutes and the blade lasts a long time.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I think the purpose of the steel is to unroll the cutting edged of a knife.  When you use the edge it actually curls over or rolls over.  The steel takes the curl out.  Some one told me this once and I am not able to check the source tonight.

 

Phil

Phil Roach

Former Director, Nautical Research Guild

Member Shipmodeler's Guild Southwest Florida

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Oh... I don't let mine go "blunt"... every 4 or 5 cuts (strokes?), I re-steel it.   Seems to work and Danny says used one blade for quite awhile.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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My Admiral, the Chief Cook, steels her Henkels knives when she uses them. I think I could shave with some of them. :D

 

And a master doll house furniture builder friend of mine (his stuff is very high end) uses Excel knife blades. Says the Xacto ones are brittle (true) and so are the scalpel blades. And he hones his blades to a razor edge. :)

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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in fact you need at least 2 knives 

 

1 with the #11 blade, exacto is far behind and needs much more pressure to cut

 

1 with a thicker  blade when you need to apply greater strenght, and there are many choices

and this one you have to hone it yourself and diamond is the fastest way to hone

 

#11 and exacto blades are hones very differently, I have a picture somewhere taken to the microscope to show it

I will try to fond it

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I compared the weight and Exacto blade is 30% heavier than #11.

Both blades are sharpen on both sides and can be use as easily with right or left hand

Usual  knife blade  is sharpen 1 side only

Exacto blade has a second sharpening  angle

 

So what happens when somebody sharpens an exacto blade?

The second angle of the blade disappears and then

the shape of the exacto cutting blade is in the same style as #11...

 

photo 1 blade exacto #11

photo 2 blade exacto top #11 bottom

post-184-0-23357100-1424106441.jpg

post-184-0-81601600-1424106451_thumb.jpg

Edited by Gaetan Bordeleau
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I bought a pack of #11 scalpel blades from Amazon.  The cost for a pack of 100 was not that much $10 and they are sharp right out of the box.  But they are also more flexible and they will not take the beating an exacto will.  but for my work they are perfect.  After a few swipes on the cutting board a couple of strokes on a leather strop with compound they last for a long time.

David B

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I dont know about how anybody else would do it, but at $10 per 100 for blades that have a machine-made edge, then I'd use new blades as needed.  

 

I might (but more likely might not) save the used blades for a slow winter afternoon, to whet them into sharpness.  It's more likely that I'd  go outside and knock the icicles off the eaves, and then make a hot cup of coffee and read a good book.  

Edited by Bob Blarney
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I have some of the Z blades. They are slightly larger but no thicker. The blade seems to have a little better edge to it. Also if you look close at the picture the blade edge has a little curve to it near the end. I am still undecided as to if it is any better. I don`t particularly care for the curve in the blade.

 

post-4600-0-94703600-1424135818_thumb.jpg

 

Mark

current build - HMS Vanguard - Model Shipways

 

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Got my Tamiya Knife handle and blades in the mail yesterday.  I have not used it yet but I have the following observations thus far.

 

1.  The handle is longer and seems a bit heavier than my largest X-acto handle.  Most of the weight and strength of the handle is in the end of the handle at the knife end.

 

2.  The handle is a hard black plastic with metal fittings comprising the collet for the blade.

 

3.   Although the Tamiya brand is printed with white letters on the handle, the manufacturer is imprinted or branded in the plastic handle.  The Manufacturer is OLFA Japan.

 

4.  The biggest difference is how the blade is held in the handle.  The flat portions of the blade are not sandwiched between the flat portions of the collet.  Instead the blade is clamped on the two edges of the shank (the part with the hole) of the blade.  There is also a spring type spacer that prevents the halves of the collet from being able to mate flush on the other axis, which I think prevents you from bending the collet if you tighten it too much.  This I think insures that he mating surfaces of the handle with the blade stay parallel to the shank of the blade so as to ensure full contact with the blade on both edges.  Although I have not used it yet, the blade seems very secure.  I am sure that some basic engineering concepts are at work in the blade holding design.

 

5.  The Blades have a slightly different design.  The shank (again the part with the hole) is longer, therefore providing more mating surfaces on the edges than other blades.  The blades are stamped as being made by OLFA.

 

6.  Just so happens I had the following #11 type blades in my tool box:   Excel, X-acto, and Testors.  They will all fit into the handle and seem secure, although their shanks are slightly shorter than the OFLA blades.

 

7.  I did not look long, but I could not find more than a five(5) pack of replacement blades which increases the cost of the blades significantly.  This will be a big draw back for me because I toss my blades often.  Believe it or not, a sharp blade is safer than a dull one.

 

 

This is what I know for now.

 

Phil

Edited by roach101761

Phil Roach

Former Director, Nautical Research Guild

Member Shipmodeler's Guild Southwest Florida

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I use a handle I found in a hobby shop years ago.  It tightens from the back and is rubber with a hexagonal shape at the end so it does not roll around.  As a result of being tightened in the back the blade is secure and will not loosen up.

post-227-0-00314000-1424295359_thumb.jpg

David B

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