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Pride of Baltimore II by AndyMech - Model Shipways - 1:64


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Finally some more progress - I've created and installed the sampson posts and the windlass.  Both are glued on deck.  I would like to run black thread down from the pump handles to the windlass to simulate the wire, but it's fairly tricky work.  Maybe I can blacken some brass wire for the same effect and glue in place.

 

 

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That looks good. I think the blackened brass wire would do the trick. I keep some blackened annealed steel wire around for such items.

 

Russ

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nice bit of progress Andy.......all the little deck stuff will really add to the overall layout ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Well Andy I took the weekend off to visit the Tall Ships America exhibit in Charleston and took a short excursion on the Pride of Baltimore II. My wife and I had a great time and, since it was the POB II I thought of you often. If I ever do get my Connie done I think I will follow in your footsteps and try the POB  myself. :)

 

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  • 1 month later...

I'm back.  To answer modlerbob's question (above), I do not plan on installing the props.  It's not really my vision of the ship.

 

Minor additions to the deck - the cavel and mooring blocks, the pin and cleat platform at the bow, two small ladders (shown here side by side just for the photo) and finally I did the catheads and supports.

 

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Finally catching up on some of the comments - thanks all for the nice words.  As to modlerbob's other question about finishing as the actual POB II, I'm not sure.  I may leave off the tiny, tiny lettering the plans specify as I can't hand-paint it, and finding and gluing small letters just doesn't seem worth it.  I'm basically OK with leaving it "unnamed" as it were.  

 

The deck furniture is not yet installed and glued into place, mainly to allow me still work without snagging things.  The catheads are glued, don't really have a choice there, but working the masts into place around the other furniture seems difficult, so the deck is nice and clean right now.  Some exceptions, but there you go.

 

Now that I'm back home (long story, don't ask), I hope to make small bits of progress on the weekends, re-kindle my work and try to remember how to do what I've already forgotten. 

 

Andy.

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Andy:

The deck looks very good. I like the details especially the kevels and cleats along the bulwarks. Just be sure they are properly fastened. You do not want these coming loose during rigging and belaying. :)

 

Russ

 

 

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glad your back as well.........your progress definitely picks up where you left off ;)     looks very nice!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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  • 1 month later...

Still moving slowly, but glued in the pinrails today.  I always have trouble getting the pin in straight line, and I guess this effort is no exception.

 

Andy.

 

 

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Your model is coming along nicely. The pin rails look good. My only worry is that they would come loose during rigging. I like to dowel or pin those to the side whenever possible. Gives extra strength where it is needed.

 

Are you going to paint or tone the pins? Bluejacket has a brass brown toner that works well.

 

Russ

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I am a little worried about it holding up to the rigging.  They feel pretty solid to me now, but I will take another look at some means of reinforcing it.  As for color, to be honest, I'd not thought about it.  The rigging will hide it a little, but painting it wouldn't be too difficult.

 

Thanks for the thoughts,

 

Andy

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Not sure this is a new idea, but here is what I came up with for making stronger pin rails.

 

59accb84bd7c2_PinRail1.jpg.e1a9689034d98f6101da987ca721b840.jpg  59accb8a0d462_PinRail2.jpg.8b57b6e21a2fa1774727753443fe0ad7.jpg

 

I use L shape stock.  The bottom part, which provides a base for anchoring, is virtually invisible once mounted on the bulwark.

 

 

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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Hola Andy:

It's good that you have returned to the POB II. In fact I've spend almost a year since I begun mine "Pride".

 

I think the important thing is not the time but the fun produced modeling and all the activities related to this hobby. In your case you are doing a splendid job and the POB II is getting really well.

 

Saludos, Karl

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  • 8 months later...

So, it's the end of May, about 9 months since my last update.

 

I completed the fife rails:

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And the rudder:

 

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For the rudder, I left both the wood and the brass unpainted, at least for now.  I did blacken the chain and CA glue it to the eyebolts.  Hopefully I won't bump it and knock it off doing the rest of the build.

 

None of the deck fitting are glued into place, as I'd like to leave it clear as possible for putting in the masts eventually.

 

If anyone has done this kit, I'm wondering what the brittania fittings for the chain pipes, near the windlass, look like.  The instructions are particularly vague with no drawings of the chain/ropes around the windlass or how the whole thing fits together.  I'd like to finish that next, or work on the cannons.

 

Thanks for bearing with me and my slow progress.

 

Andy.

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I found a picture after doing a Google Search - I won't post it here as I'm not sure of the copyright, but I'll update my model and show a picture of that when completed.  I guess, to do the chains right, I will need to finally drill the hawse holes, something I've been avoiding as it's a tricky thing.

 

Andy.

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hello Andy....good to see your back at the table  :)    no reason to think you'd have too hard a time.........you've done very well on the model so far.  looking forward in seeing your progress ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Hola Andy:

Nice to see you again. 

I finished my POB II 6 months ago and you can see the photos in the forum. Maybe they can be of some help.

 

Saludos, Karl

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Oh, I reference your build and photos all the time.  They’re a great help!

 

Andy.  

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  • 1 month later...

I finished up the windlass and anchors.  To do them, I had first drill the hawse holes on port and starboard, which was a little tricky, but managed.  I put the windlass itself on two supporting planks, which is a simplification of the instructions, but looks ok in my opinion.

The anchors wouldn't blacken, so I had to paint them.  Mounting the tying in the anchors was pretty easy, then run the chain and rope to the windlass, and finally glued the chain/rope to the chain pipes.

 

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Finally, I used thread instead of wire for the windlass connector, as working with fine wire seemed pretty impossible.P1060567.jpg.4d4d5d1cfa4ec7ecf24315a169993727.jpg

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nice progress Andy :)   is there a reason for the rope and chain?   did the kit supply eyelets or something for the hawse holes.  I have a bunch of those darn things.  you can find them in a craft store....it would make the holes look better.   sorry if I sound picky,  but you've done such a super job on her so far,  I find it hard that you've settled on mere holes drilled through the bulwarks.   I have a bunch of 'em........I can send you some if you'd like :)   PM me with your addy ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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  • 1 month later...

The reason for the rope and chain is simple - that's the specification in the plans, and in photos of the ship.  I'd post it here, but am unclear on copyright for it.  And, no, I found no eyelet for the hawse holes, and it's too late now to add them, as the rope/chain is already threaded through.

 

Thanks for the thoughts, but I'm not too keen on re-work for them - it was hard enough getting them to their current state.

 

Currently working on the cannons.  I was thinking of putting them in a "stowed" manner instead of pointing through the gunports, just for something different.  I found a nice photo of that a while ago, but can't find it again, so we'll see.  I'll get pictures up when it's done.

 

Andy.

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  • 6 months later...

September of last year.  Wow.  I've not given up, despite the long delay.

 

So, first thing done is the ship's boat.  This is a bread-and-butter construction, sanded down and stained and painted.

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The oars where shaped from single pieces of wood strips, sanded and stained again.  Pretty fun to make, now that I think about it.

 

Andy.

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I also assembled the cannon carriages.  The cannons themselves are painted black, the carriages are from laser cut wood, painted red (of course).

 

Now, most ship builders, myself included, usually mount the cannons in a ready-to-fire mode, pointing out the ports, elaborate rigging, etc.  However, I saw some photos of the modern Pride, at sea, and the cannons were stowed sideways, and lashed to the bulkhead/railing.  So, in the interest of doing something different, I decided to mount them that way on my model.

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I also then made and glued the cannon port doors, in the closed position:

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