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H.M.S. Victory, Heller, 1/100, Onward and Upwards.


Izzy Madd

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I am assuming that the Heller Victory and Heller Soleil Royale use the same quality of parts for their 1:100 scale kits.  For my Soleil Royale I am using the lower masts as is.  They seem sturdy enough.  Even the top masts seem to be ok.  Anything above that I will be replacing with wood.  The plastic is too bendy.  The bowsprit and any yards that are molded in two halves I am using but I am filling them with brass rod to stiffen them and add weight.  Upper yards I have not made a decision on.  When I get to that point I'll determine if they are too flexible.  Studding sail booms will remain plastic.  There will be no rigging on these for my build.

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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Here the difference between Heller and wood - the jib boom:

 

800_Victory-jibboom_9557.jpg

 

800_Victory-jibboom_9559.jpg

 

I think too, the lower mast will do the job - especially if stauffed with wood or metal - , but I will replace all the other sections.

 

XXXDAn

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

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Here the difference between Heller and wood - the jib boom:

 

800_Victory-jibboom_9557.jpg

 

800_Victory-jibboom_9559.jpg

 

I think too, the lower mast will do the job - especially if stauffed with wood or metal - , but I will replace all the other sections.

 

XXXDAn

Nice to see a very graphic description there.

 

I was considering adding "something to the centre of the lower half. For as you say weight and strength.

 

I was wondering if anyone had tried acetal. For the upper parts.

 

I was intending to use it mainly for the deadeyes as its black already and no grain to cause flexing when drilling. And with a very fine texture I think it should work due to its high stability even when heated by friction of turning.

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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"I was wondering if anyone had tried acetal. For the upper parts."

 

Just try out and show :-)

 

XXXDAn

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

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Seeing as I haven't even started yet I thought I'd pay some attention to making better ropes.

 

Well to make a short story long. Either I couldn't decide on how many strands I might use ore I was bored and it kept growing. Personally I blame the kids. I knew I should not have left my 2 year old grandson near the maccano...:-)

 

post-18378-0-74944700-1428524883_thumb.jpg

 

And before anyone asks it can do anywhere between two and eight strand in unilatereral as well as lining and braid twelve around a core up to 3mm.

 

Only slightly over board?‽ :-/

 

Well the parts were there and I got carried away and it has a gear ratio of 28:1 so It will either burst into flames, melt or implode. Either way it will be fun. Just keep the fallout shelter and extinguisher to hand

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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And it might just be a case of... And here's another quote but a nice simple one. Don't want to out do the master.

 

A case of "the enigin's canne take any more cap'n" and a small clue for those under thirty. It may just blow all the dilithiam crystals.

 

 

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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Izzy,

 

I'm not sure but I think you've go one too many gears.... this might account for the drain on the dilithium crystals.

 

post-76-0-68260300-1428528326_thumb.jpg

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Izzy,

 

I'm not sure but I think you've go one too many gears.... this might account for the drain on the dilithium crystals.

 

attachicon.gifpost-18378-0-74944700-1428524883.jpg

That one is there to enable a stable tension, ie pulling from three different sides, if I make a rope from just three strand. By using the two other gears at the top of the image against the main drive gear. And the two either side of that gear are there for the same reason except to use four strands.

 

The fun begins when you thread twelve of the thirteen simultaneously. As four twist one way and eight the other if this is done at the same time as laying a worm rope vital that this is twisted again in the opposite direction. Then you end up with a very complex braided, of a sort, rope that's as flexible as an iron bar. Even in miniture.

 

So well spotted but not as you thought an error just an over zealous need for ultimate usability.

 

All I've got to do now is find some 1mm wire stong enough to stand the torque but soft enought to make very "interesting" hooks...

Edited by Izzy Madd

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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Izzy,

 

I'm not sure but I think you've go one too many gears.... this might account for the drain on the dilithium crystals.

 

attachicon.gifpost-18378-0-74944700-1428524883.jpg

I'm supprized no one has asked the most obvious question "how are they held on?"

 

As there are no bolts and no cotter pins. Yes it will have a front plate. Removed so as to show my insanity, sorry ingenuity. I've even manage to create a rope walk to a scale ⅓ of a mile. That is three and a half meters that folds up when not in use. All I've got to do is see if Bolton a watt are still making steam engines to drive it.‽

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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And if this summer you hear of a bloke found tangled to death by his own imploding ropewalk it's probably me.

 

Now where did I put that box of matches, can of petrol and the TNT?

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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On the subject if the great Vicky. I was watching a documentary about the Chatham Dockyard. And they had a huge 5+ meter long model of her used in the film "That Hamilton Woman". The thing that struck me and has all along is the lines along the sides don't follow any obvious landmarks. Such as '3" above and below the gun ports. But this model did. I know movies even British ones do whatever they like. But why are the lines so 'random' for want of a better word? Because if I remember right, very little chance of that but never mind. The yellow/orang/umber stripes stop part way through some of the gunports so that the top is black and the bottom is the other colour.

 

Does any one know why?

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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Another thing bugging me. Why are the hammocks put along the edges of the deck in the open where they are highly likely to get soaked. And after a hard day slaving over a hot canon the lat thing you'd want is a soggy bed‽

 

Or is it as it looks a rudimentary attempt at defences against small arms fire or may be even grape shot?

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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I suspected you had a faceplate for your ropewalk because of the 4 additional holes.  Thanks for the explanation of the extra gear.  That makes perfect sense to me.

 

 

On the subject if the great Vicky. I was watching a documentary about the Chatham Dockyard. And they had a huge 5+ meter long model of her used in the film "That Hamilton Woman". The thing that struck me and has all along is the lines along the sides don't follow any obvious landmarks. Such as '3" above and below the gun ports. But this model did. I know movies even British ones do whatever they like. But why are the lines so 'random' for want of a better word? Because if I remember right, very little chance of that but never mind. The yellow/orang/umber stripes stop part way through some of the gunports so that the top is black and the bottom is the other colour.

Does any one know why?

 

The ports don't follow the waies, they follow the deck.  Thus the yellow stripe is between the wales and follows them.  If you look at the real beast, some of the lids actually have the extra thickness so that when they're closed the main wale is unbroken.

 

 

Another thing bugging me. Why are the hammocks put along the edges of the deck in the open where they are highly likely to get soaked. And after a hard day slaving over a hot canon the lat thing you'd want is a soggy bed‽

Or is it as it looks a rudimentary attempt at defences against small arms fire or may be even grape shot?

 

That's part of what they were, defense against small arms fire for the gunners.  In foul weather, a canvas tarp was put over them (on some ships) and on others, the hammocks went below.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I suspected you had a faceplate for your ropewalk because of the 4 additional holes.  Thanks for the explanation of the extra gear.  That makes perfect sense to me.

 

 

 

 

The ports don't follow the waies, they follow the deck.  Thus the yellow stripe is between the wales and follows them.  If you look at the real beast, some of the lids actually have the extra thickness so that when they're closed the main wale is unbroken.

 

 

 

 

That's part of what they were, defense against small arms fire for the gunners.  In foul weather, a canvas tarp was put over them (on some ships) and on others, the hammocks went below.

 

Thanks for all that. Especially the paint job. As the gunports are mor striking it just seems more natural to follow what's ther which they have but not the ports. So it's harder to tell from most images.

 

I'm glad the explanation for the ropewalk spinner was clear. Now can you explain it to me :-). I've been doing some maths as regards the torque needed to turn it and it's only 0.2 lb/ft. So I think I'll get away with the design as I'll only be doing thin ish ropes but I enjoy knot work in full size so now I can at least make short lengths and perhaps lay them out an a knot board to go along with the nautical theme. As for the face plate all that does is hold the shaft from wobbling the only thing actuall holding them in place is a M3 bole through the back of the tube which goes right through and the gear at the front. So if I have to change a gear it out with the hammer...

 

It's supprising how strong glues are once they've cured. I went to a tool show at the beginning of the months and was asking a chap about his glue and if it was waterproof. He's said so long as you put two coats on but you have to wait until the first coats fully cured. That would be about four to six weeks...! I just hope it stick well as the guarentee will have run out before the first lots set.

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi,

 

Just a quick question for anyone who'll answer please

 

Did I read somewhere that the victory had teak decks? And if so did this also hold true for the Cutty Sark?

 

Only I've got about twenty 50mm strips of teak veneer 2.800mm long. Which would look great colour wise even if it's to dark for reality.

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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Quick update on the rope walk.

 

While it's not fully finished. It is a working item not just needs mounting

 

post-18378-0-19790200-1430743396_thumb.jpg

 

Just a shame all the fun goes on inside.

 

post-18378-0-17397100-1430743486_thumb.jpg

 

And before anyone asks. Yes they are upside down. Thanks to apples latest updat/downgrade. Nearly as bad as ebays...

Edited by Izzy Madd

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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Hi,

 

And welcome the greatest beauty contest this side of the Tardis. Why the Tardis. Well it seem that despite the rumours that I'd abandoned a young highland lass by the name of Nannie. In favour of some one called Little Willy. The rumours are unfounded to the point the I've enlisted the good Doctor to help. As you can see below...

 

I'm afraid you'll have to excuse the poor image quality but they insisted upon soft focus at this time of night.

 

post-18378-0-40665100-1430953282_thumb.jpg

 

post-18378-0-60664900-1430953301_thumb.jpg

 

It's always when someone turns around you get the best picture ah well

 

post-18378-0-24974000-1430953316.jpg

 

post-18378-0-19634600-1430953327_thumb.jpg

 

After much coaxing I did get them to pose for a last time.

 

post-18378-0-15137400-1430953343_thumb.jpg

 

post-18378-0-88236400-1430953359_thumb.jpg

 

And as you can see double yes we now have two Nannies. Thanks to the Doctor. Who nipped back to the future. Or forward to the past!‽ which ever but there they are. While big sis sports the right coloured tail it's clear that little sis has caught a much darker horse. So which witch is which? Well they are both of course just one is 1/130 and the other is 1/350. So we are still moving forward. It's just the ladies keep disappearing just as I'm about to do their hair or sort out her/their Cutty Sarks. And it's taken until now to get them both ready and in the same place at the same time. You can never rush a lady never mind two.

 

So let's hear it for the girls

 

Wolf whistles are allowed as being PC is banned on my log

Edited by Izzy Madd

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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Interesting thoughtfull work there Izzy, like i have said before - it is amazing what you can achieve with a plastic kit out of a box - some bits and pieces - tolls and a lot of patience ;)   in my younger days :rolleyes:  i have built Her ladyship Vic  in a few different forms, from a ship in a bottle, the Airfix version and later the Part Works one by De-Ag,   the last one was part made and i had a build going on on here on the earlier forum :rolleyes: before it all went ...up.

 

I lost my build and a lot of parts due to a house move.

 

 

OC

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Hi, does any one know the sizes of the original blocks. As I'm trying to make some but don't know how big they should be.

 

Please help.

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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Comments please.

 

Be brutally honest no hurt feelings as I'm trying to get the design right before setting up the process.

Any criticisms accepted just leave you funeral request at the bottom of the page

post-18378-0-02905000-1431280235_thumb.jpg

post-18378-0-36502300-1431280467_thumb.jpg

post-18378-0-39242800-1431280578_thumb.jpg

post-18378-0-37370500-1431280621_thumb.jpg

Edited by Izzy Madd

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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On a completely different tack.

 

And no disrespect to the chap(images curtesy of The Daily Mail). As its the lighting and the daft pose they put him in.

 

Is it just me or does this guy look like a cross between Joe 90 and Brains from Thunderbirds?

 

post-18378-0-39057000-1431281732_thumb.jpg

 

Every time I see this image I want to look for the strings...

 

And for those that had a less than full education, ie born too late.

 

Here's Joe 90.

 

post-18378-0-44129300-1431282123.jpg

 

And here's brains. Pre cartoon version...

 

post-18378-0-12479400-1431282160_thumb.jpg

 

And before anyone asks yes it's the weekend and yes I've been tapping the admiral...

Edited by Izzy Madd

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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I can see the guy having finished calking and realizing that the tie is stuck within the seams ...

 

... as long as it keeps it watertight ;-)

 

XXXDAn

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

 

Forgive my absence as after seeing Joe 90 every time I searched for anything to do with Vicki. I decided to take a short break in Lilliput and try to learn how to make a block and stripped eye. While I'm sure Dafi's got things well covered and is probably churning blocks out by the thousands. I'm quite pleased with my first effort at a working block. I say working, as my eyesight splaying up and telling if a smooth brass wheel 0.75 thick is turning is beyond me. But the lines move through free enough. Just need to use the thinner thread for the whipping. I think but still I like it. See what you think...

 

post-18378-0-61890500-1432568308_thumb.jpg

 

post-18378-0-83303300-1432568322_thumb.jpg

 

post-18378-0-78276600-1432568336_thumb.jpg

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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Hi,

 

Can someone please direct me to some info about the block sizes used on HMS Victory.

 

Only I know that they are made to a certain formular(the wheel is 10% wider than the rope, the wheel is three times that in diameter, and the block size derived from the wheel size).

 

But surely something like the navy must have had fairly standard size blocks. But what were the dimensions?

 

Or failing that the rope sizes?

 

I realise that it's probably in one of the books I have. But with my dyslexia/laziness I'm struggling my way through the books very slowly. As I need to re read several times to grasp what is being said. So if someone could just guide me towards the right source at least please.

 

Izzy

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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Hi,

 

Can anyone help.

 

I'm looking for a set of plans for the Billings Boat kit "Norden".

 

I've just bought it but it's only got the new style instruction not the plan. And I find it far easier to work from the plans. Also they look good.

 

So any help PLEASE

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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Hi,

 

Can someone please direct me to some info about the block sizes used on HMS Victory.

 

Only I know that they are made to a certain formular(the wheel is 10% wider than the rope, the wheel is three times that in diameter, and the block size derived from the wheel size).

 

But surely something like the navy must have had fairly standard size blocks. But what were the dimensions?

 

Or failing that the rope sizes?

 

I realise that it's probably in one of the books I have. But with my dyslexia/laziness I'm struggling my way through the books very slowly. As I need to re read several times to grasp what is being said. So if someone could just guide me towards the right source at least please.

 

Izzy

 

It follows the rope sizes :-)

 

It is indicated in the rigging tablature in the end of McKays AOTS :-)

 

XXXDAn

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

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It follows the rope sizes :-)

 

It is indicated in the rigging tablature in the end of McKays AOTS :-)

 

XXXDAn

Thanks I knew the info was out there some where. But I just couldn't read enough to find it. I'm more of a pictures person. As soon as I follow the instructions things go wrong.

 

It's not that I was being lazy as I've been looking for weeks. And as you've done. All I needed was the right place to look. As I can then read it as many times as I have to for it to sink in. But not before I get sent the right way

 

I was beginning to think I'd gone invisible as no one answered me...

 

Thanks again

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've just been doing some reading about The battle. And suddenly wondered.

 

The fire arms in those days were usually the sort that you'd be luck to hit a barn door at any reasonable distance let alone Nelson.

 

So did they have any accurate weapons?

 

And how dose anyone know that the perticular French man shot Nelson?

 

As there would be a situation of so much flying metal in the air it's a wonder any room was left for oxygen to breath. Talk about lead poisoning.

 

But is it a case of artistic licence. That a certain person is credited with the fatal shot. Or is there some reason why it's a "known fact"?

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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Rifled weapons were in use by some at this time period. But most were using the brown Bess musket. In the US Navy, there would be one marine,the best shot, as a sharpshooter in the top, backed up by six or seven marines loading for him. That way he could keep up a steady rate of fire. So, if you know who the sharpshooter was you may be able to identify who shot Nelson.

 

Regards,

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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post-18378-0-89593300-1433882905_thumb.jpg

 

Valar dohaeris

 

For a friend...

Edited by Izzy Madd

Ongoing builds,

 

SCutty Sark Revell 1/350 (Mini Nannie)

Cutty Sark Airfix 1/130 (Big Sis)

Will (Everard) Billings 1/65 but with wooden bottom, because I can

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