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Diluting PVA Glue


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Hello all

 

I am rigging my Amati American Cup Endeavour 1934. I have a question about how to dilute the PVA glue for securing knots etc. What ratio of Water/PVA do you use? Shall it be heavily diluted or just make it float?

 

Br

Jörgen   

Jörgen
 
Current:  Sherbourne - Caldercraft 1/64

            Vasa - DeAgostini 1/65
Finished: Endeavour - Americas Cup J class 1934 - Amati 1/80

Other:    Airplanes and Tanks

 

 

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Thanks Keith

 

How long must I wait until I can trim ends etc? At the moment so doesn't I got any strength without a tiny drop of CA. 

Jörgen
 
Current:  Sherbourne - Caldercraft 1/64

            Vasa - DeAgostini 1/65
Finished: Endeavour - Americas Cup J class 1934 - Amati 1/80

Other:    Airplanes and Tanks

 

 

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I would give it 24 hours :) It takes a long time for diluted PVA to dry. In reality I have trimmed it when it felt dry, but there's no harm waiting a bit longer. After all, you have a tonne of other rigging to do in the meantime!

Regards, Keith

 

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways

post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

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Not at this starter kit of Endevour. Was trying to trim and test the force after some minutes...... :) 

Thanks for the help.

Jörgen
 
Current:  Sherbourne - Caldercraft 1/64

            Vasa - DeAgostini 1/65
Finished: Endeavour - Americas Cup J class 1934 - Amati 1/80

Other:    Airplanes and Tanks

 

 

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If you use natural fiber rigging material and you care how long the rigging will last, consider using bookbinders/archival quality PVA.

Lineco Neutral pH Adhesive is one brand that is available.  The pH of Titebond II  is 3.0 - which is fairly acidic.  Not much negative effect on a closed wood-wood area,  but rigging is all open to air surface area.  Although we need it to live, oxygen is destructive to organic materials that do not have active repair systems (are living).

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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I use casco indoor woodglue. It has Ph 6 and when diluted with water it should be very close to neutral. Think this will be OK.

I have now wait to the day after gluing for the trims etc. Much better result:).

I'm happy that this work because I didn't liked the appearance of dried CA. Thank you all for the help.

 

Br

Jörgen

Edited by Jörgen

Jörgen
 
Current:  Sherbourne - Caldercraft 1/64

            Vasa - DeAgostini 1/65
Finished: Endeavour - Americas Cup J class 1934 - Amati 1/80

Other:    Airplanes and Tanks

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

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