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P_Budzik

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    http://paulbudzik.com/contact.html

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  1. Not quite sure you fellas realize how small the part is, check out the reading on the caliper ... I think you would find it very frustrating to make it out of plastic or wood and keep it sharp. Second, because it's so small, material loss really isn't an issue. Third, you don't start with square stock because the part is transferred to an indexing head on a milling table, so it is much easier than trying to recenter the stock. The point of the video was to demonstrate a method and develop the concept of putting together multiple processes. It started by first thinking how are you going to accurately locate the part, so you need a pin (gluing a free floating piece of plastic is hit or miss). You need convenient way to hold the part when you are doing the free-hand work. So turning the part off on the lathe solves both those issues. Using rod stock gives you a center to work from. The basic shape is generated on the mill and the depth was only .050". Because it's so small, it only takes a few file strokes and sandpaper to work out the shape. These techniques are not new and have been used by professional model maker machinists and taught to me nearly a half century ago. I made the video to answer questions from modelers, with no experience in machine work, who want to purchase a lathe or some single machine that they think will be useful. They don't understand that the majority of parts that they see I've created involve multiple process, not only related to the machines, but also tools like a grinder. You don't just buy a magical machine and start spitting out great parts ... there's a pretty steep learning curve ... even for setting up the machine. So when someone asks me about getting into miniature machine work ... I have a simple example that I can point to and say to them, "do you really want to go down that road?" Especially in the day of 3D printing, which you know will only keep getting better. It's an homage to classical technique that I like to keep alive ... and I had hoped that people could see it for that. Paul
  2. While this particular example is an aircraft part, I use the same basic principles and techniques combining machine process with hand shaping, for creating all sorts of small details. I hope you find it useful. Paul
  3. Jim ... I'll have one later on general techniques for cleaning and maintenance. As for the VL, Paasche makes a point of touting that it's easy to clean ... you just run some thinner through it, and you're done. I don't think that works so well with some of the acrylics. It's not difficult to disassemble ... it's just with some of these older designs ... you should have some beeswax handy to plug up the leaks. And what I didn't say in the video ... Ive been disappointed with the current quality control from Paasche. I can't tell you how many new nozzles I've had to chuck because they were nicked up or bent on delivery. Paul
  4. the Iwata mini spray guns that have application to modeling. There is a short video review/description included for each. http://paulbudzik.com/miniature-spray-guns/miniature-spray-guns-pg-3.html Paul
  5. I've started a new series on photographing scale models ... of particular interest to ship modelers is the latest video on maximizing Depth of Field ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9-AM9uaSFw Paul
  6. I recently debuted an additional Youtube channel that i call "Bits & Pieces". It gives me the opportunity to answer some questions and cover things like tools in a different way than my other channel. The question that I get the most consistently is about the handpiece modelers see me use in my videos. So I've finally been able to do a better explanation along with an explanation of what might be a better choice. The video is here ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDsNVE299PE Paul
  7. Airbrushing for Modelers 101 series is now up ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2QPqwDV2ys Paul
  8. It's 3M Blue Plastic Tape, look for it at an auto body supply. Paul
  9. My latest video on "Masking Techniques" might be helpful ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDS5CCs5LQo Paul
  10. Tip dry is always a problem with acrylics. To be safe, at least a .3 mm nozzle. There are also some thinners that retard settiing (acrylic paints are more like plastic) but you will have to test compatibiltiy. An example would be Gunze's Mr Leveling Thinner or Tamiya X-20A. Paul https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2_YEoGunu0

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