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  1. He covers a number of scenarios as well as soldering to white metal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTL6VLHNW1U&t=0s https://youtu.be/oTL6VLHNW1U
  2. Having grown up with film and large format, I can understand the nostalgia and romance. But especially for images destined for the net, I think a good dslr or mirrorless is more than adequate. For focus stacking, I like Heliofocus over Photoshop. The final image from Heliofocus can be easily squared up in Photoshop The last segment of this video shows the automated features of Heliofocus ... https://youtu.be/yXOsZVbclPI Paul
  3. Hubac: Thank you Wefalck: I don't build any more primer than I would normally, but you do need to have a light touch. Just do a little practice, but honestly, it really turns out to be very easy and fast. You also need to do a little playing around with how fine a point you put on your scribe. Paul
  4. The technique that I have been using for a fine scribed line is to scribe though the final finish layer into the underlying primer. These two scratch built aircraft were done using this technique: I describe the technique in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRnKEwsQSaQ
  5. This video will give you a good explanation of how to get the smoothest finish possible. These are the tools used by all the model production companies to achieve those great finishes.
  6. In the past I've always used just Unimat, both the SL and Unimat 3. The old 3 with a cast bed and ways is far superior to the SL. I now only use a pair of 3's and an SL head mounted on a home made mill. I wouldn't recommend going with an older machine that is no longer manufactured because of the limited availability of parts and accessories. Last year I bought a Proxon 250 because I wanted something a little bigger. It is a terrific machine. You get an actual geared power feed and real compound. Gears are metal and the machine is made in Germany. It bears a str
  7. I had a long history with Floquil. It was the only hobby paint I used. Awhile back I put up a web page just about Floquil. I have a PDF of the original "little red book" that Floquil published explaining their paint and how to use it. I also have the original railroad color chart up as well. The web page is here: http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/floquil-paint/floquil-paint.html
  8. The twisted wire method has always worked well for me.
  9. Here is my solution for adding direct readout to my Unimat 3's ... but the same idea can be applied to other miniature lathes ...
  10. Not quite sure you fellas realize how small the part is, check out the reading on the caliper ... I think you would find it very frustrating to make it out of plastic or wood and keep it sharp. Second, because it's so small, material loss really isn't an issue. Third, you don't start with square stock because the part is transferred to an indexing head on a milling table, so it is much easier than trying to recenter the stock. The point of the video was to demonstrate a method and develop the concept of putting together multiple processes. It started by first thinking how are yo
  11. While this particular example is an aircraft part, I use the same basic principles and techniques combining machine process with hand shaping, for creating all sorts of small details. I hope you find it useful. Paul
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