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    Chantilly, VA USA
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    Woodworking, Metalworking, Wooden Ships, furniture, Travel, Reading

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  1. Sorry. I have had a number of non-shipbuilding issues that over took my build. However, the build is still underway I just have been neglecting updates. Currently I am working on a detailed rigging plan. I should have that completed fairly soon. Once that is completed, I will start constructing the ropes and fittings. At that point I will also be ready to add and update on the build.
  2. We got there on a cruise ship that was crossing from the US to the area for the summer season, so I guess we beat the crowds.
  3. When we visited the museum a couple of years ago we took the hotels advice and bought tickets ahead and arrived right as the museum opened. We had been warned / advised to prioritize those exhibits we really wanted to see so the ships exhibits were first on our list. There were a number of multimedia presentations that I believe represent the best promise for a future for displaying modelers work. The half model mentioned above was an amazing. To watch these tiny actors performing their tasks deep within the ship was very cool. FYI, by midmorning, the museum became so full of tourists, you had to wade seas of people to get to specific painting/exhibits so the advice to arrive early worked extremely well for us. The Rijksmuseum is very highly recommended. It is Netherland's version of the USA's Smithsonian, albeit in one very large facility rather than many. As we left the museum later that afternoon, the weather had turned cold and rainy. The lines to get into the building both for those with prepaid tickets and those without, streamed for many blocks away from the building entrance and promised hours of very cold wet waits to get into the museum. So go early and get in line to be there when it opens. I also would be remiss if I didn't recommend the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam. This museum had far more exhibits of ships and maritime artifacts on display and was much less crowded than the Rijksmuseum. Here is a photo of the stern carvings. However there is also another model not to be missed, the huge model of the William Rex.
  4. Regarding to stain or not, I have found on my Eagle I am using white maple, walnut, cherry, and the occasional piece of boxwood. i found covering everything with coating of a light stain, puts all the wood into the same color pallet and unifies the look of the woods while still allowing the beauty of the various woods to show through.
  5. One other thought on resources, I found it was handy to have a searchable set of Mastini's English/Italian Dictionary. So I bought on Amazon and downloaded it to the Kindle on my iPad. It came in handy when I ran across a term in the instructions (Usually in the tables). I found that once I had that, and became comfortable in the style Mamoli used, the instructions were fairly good. I did not follow them in lockstep since there a number of changes I wanted to make to my model based upon research, or I felt it was something I wanted to put off installing until a later point in the build. For the latter, I would mark the bottom of the page so I remembered to come back to it. Their rigging was great once I figured out how to interpret them. I wrote up a guide on how to interpret them if you are interested, It is here - Mamoli Rigging.
  6. Hey Julie, this is looking great. One trick I learned from others on the forum is to use a combination of wood glue and CA when attaching strips. The CA can be placed along the strip in several spots with the wood glue in between. This allows the CA to hold the strip while the wood glue cures. Another thing you can do is to use CA and your bending iron. The CA will adhere almost immediately with the application of heat. However, if you get it too hot, it will burn off.
  7. Dave, if you look at the 1:00 mark on this video you will see that cabinet from the front side. Captain's Cabin
  8. It does look exactly like it. I know it, like all Grizzly machines is made in China. Now I just have to learn to use it as well as you do!
  9. I would just add a couple of data points. As Keith mentioned, weight is an asset with a mill. However for me there are also weight limitations since I have to get any tool into my basement workshop. That said, a used Bridgeport would be fantastic but I would never be able to get it into my shop. A micro mill is benchtop mounted but I need the bench space and would not want to lift the mill on and off the bench as I need it. Secondly, larger units can mill smaller pieces, but the opposite is not true. Micro mills will never be able to mill using larger bits. However, micromills such as the Sherline or Proxxon mills are very accurate on small scales, they just don't have the power of scope to mill larger pieces. A long XY table is great providing it has the rigidity to hold longer pieces and you have the space for the table to shift out on either side of the mill. I went with the Grizzly G0759. It can be converted to CNC but doesn't come that way. It was small enough that I could get it into my shop and still weighty enough to mill what I would be building. Before I would look at a CNC conversion, I would recommend a good Digital Read Out (DRO). The DRO will allow you to be very accurate but there is a cool factor to having a CNC mill. Lastly, the cost of accessories can double the cost of your mill. Of course you can buy these as you need them, but most mills will require a substantial outlay in accessory cost before you will be able to use them.
  10. You are doing a great job with this. One thing I found very useful when building my Mamoli Constitution was to use my phone to take pictures of the instructions. Then I would use my iPad or iPhone to enlarge them as needed. This saved paper and could be put to immediate use. Once through a step the photos could be discarded. Mastini's book is an excellent reference for Italian boat terminology.
  11. You are doing a great job with the joinery. I have a couple of suggestions you might want to look at. First is to try to align your frame sections with the wood grain. This makes the strongest frame. This minimizes the grain running across the short section of the frame (as shown in the second frame from the top in your last photo). This is never perfect, but was the technique used by the builders. Second, I found it good insurance to glue the frames up on top of the template. This insures the frames do not get sprung one way or the other during glue up.
  12. Thanks Chuck. I will be trying this technique if I ever actually finish my Eagle.
  13. This is looking great Chuck. I do was hoping you could give a few more details on how you printed the flag. Was the tissue paper designed for Ink Jet or were you able to rig it? The process start to finish would be a great addition to our data since sooner or later we all run into making flags to fit our models. Bill
  14. Greg you asked the same question I had. Keith your work is superb!

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