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Mike Dowling

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  • Location
    Sutherland, Scotland
  • Interests
    Models, Natural history, photography

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  1. If this is a new kit they will be thin plastic. If it's older they will be paper. What I did was to photocopy them onto thin card and stick those on instead with pva.
  2. Thanks for that. I am thinking of getting one so I will watch a bit and see how you get on with her.
  3. Please can you tell me the makers of this kit.
  4. I find your ingenuity quite amazing, you are a very clever chap. Your build so far is terrific. I am intrigued to know what your next build is going to be as you say it is expensive.
  5. It's a bit late for me to do a log now David as I have finished the ship but I like the idea. I agree generally about Amati kits, I have made Revenge as well but they are mean with their wood and all the bits and pieces, deadeyes, rivets, o pins and the like so you either need a nice stash of bits or beware of making mistakes or losing any!!
  6. Just to add a postscript to this log, (hope you don't mind David) I have just finished the same model and with effort she certainly builds into a very handsome beast. I won't post any pictures of mine as they will just look the same. I did try to light mine with varying success as some lights are too bright and some too dim. The portholes are so tiny that the lighting effect doesn't really show. Anyway, many thanks to you David as your log has been invaluable. This model is definitely not for the novice as you have to refer to written instructions, a photo album and eight sets of plans all at the same time. Planning ahead is essential and you really do have to work out what order to do things in on your own. Having said that it is a very good package albeit rather pricey and do be careful, there is no extra anything with this kit which makes mistakes very costly. A really good challenge for all you master builders out there!!
  7. Good thoughts so far, thank you all. It is not a problem I have immediately and have not had before but, on the model (Revenge) that I am building at the moment I am concerned that when fitting the sails they are going to put quite a weight on the standing rigging etc and make them sag. I have been using cotton thread so far.
  8. Does anyone have any brilliant ideas as to how you can tighten rigging lines when they have stretched ?
  9. Maybe I am wrong but it seems to me that there is a mixture of opinions expressed here which is interesting. My failing memory seems to think that I may have tried both methods. I seem to remember that attaching the sails on the fixed yards on the model was quite a headache and broke off a few bits whilst trying. So I am very tempted to sew the sails to the yards and then put them on. Thank you all for your contributions.
  10. We may be at cross purposes here. I have put all the blocks etc on the yards so they are done. I have yet to do the standing rigging on the ship but I can't remember or know if it is better to attach the sails to the yards first and then attach the yards to the masts fully loaded as it were.
  11. Thank you both. I know I have done this before but I had forgotten how to do it!! I think by 'dressing the yards' you mean attaching all the pulleys etc in which case I have done all that and they will be ready to go on. I feel sure that by attaching the sails to the yards first that part is easier and that means all the running rigging is done with the sails on which I guess makes sense.
  12. I feel sure this has been asked many times but, is it best to fix the yards to the masts before adding the sails or attach the sails to the yards first?
  13. I use revell aqua paints mostly but vallejo for the skin tones. Where gloss is required on models I don't think you can beat Humbrol enamels.

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