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About usedtosail

  • Birthday 04/27/1955

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    Eastern shore of Newfound Lake, NH

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  1. The AOS Beagle Book starts with Plan G Masts and Spars. Then there is a Contents page, pages 7-9 are an Introduction, and the Ships History, which is the chronology, goes from page 10 to 21.
  2. In between sail production I decided to take a look at the supplied anchors. They are in two pieces, both black plastic. The anchor shaft pieces weren't too bad, just some depressions that I filled with putty, then painted the whole thing with flat black paint, as the plastic was very shiny. The stock pieces were terrible however, so I made new ones from 3/32" square basswood which I cut and sanded to shape. I had to file a square hole through them but that was not too hard with some small square files. I stained the new stock pieces then used some black shrink wrap tubing that I sliced into t
  3. Here is the back of the fore sail with the reef points removed and the blocks, halyard and tie line added to the yard. I put the straight pin through the tie line to hold the parrels on the line while I add the yard to the mast. Here are the fore sail and sprit sails on the model but without any other running rigging yet. I rigged the fore yard tie around the mast and added the second seizing to hold it in place with the parrels. I started rigging the fore yard halyard by threading it through a hole in the mast and seizing a large double block
  4. You guys convinced me to not show them on the sails. I was able to remove a few easily this morning so I'll take the rest off. Thanks for the info.
  5. Kirill, they are shown on the plans that came with the kit. They are also mentioned in a book I am using called Rigging in the Age of the Sprit Sail 1600-1720. I like the look so I am going to keep them. Here is the fore sail tied to the fore yard, as promised to show the chain stitch I am using.
  6. Good news on the tool front - I received a replacement cuticle cutter in record time so I was back in business quickly. I also ordered a second one as a back up. I finished up the lower shrouds and ratlines, then added the topmast shrouds and stays. It was a bit tricky threading the lanyards through the deadeyes in the crows nests. I am now finished with the standing rigging. As you can see I have started making the yards and sails, starting with the sprit yard and sail under the bow sprit. I am using the sails supplied in the kit, which are a bit heavy mat
  7. Well it did cut very well on the first try and very flush but somehow I managed to break off one of the jaws. I guess I pressed too hard. I will be returning this set to Amazon and will order a different brand.
  8. Thank you Kirill. As for the shroud loops, they are placed as first the two starboard shrouds have a loop at the top that is looped around the mast head, then the first two port shrouds, etc. The fore mast only has five shrouds so the last shroud on each side is connected to each other with a cut splice that is looped around the mast head. I do believe this is the correct way to do odd number shrouds. I think what you are seeing is that I put the first shroud pair through a different hole in the crows nest than the other pairs, so they are shifted forward. I wasn't sure i could get all the shr
  9. Here are the starboard ratlines after tying and fixing the knots. I ordered some cuticle cutters which I will use to clip the excess line when they arrive. Port ratlines are coming along and I have started making the futtock shrouds.
  10. Thanks for the likes. I have been making good progress on the standing rigging. I have all the shrouds and stays installed, as well as the crows feet, and have started adding the ratlines. Here is what she looked like as of this morning. I am happy with how even the deadeyes came out. Here is how I do ratlines. I make a template for each set of shrouds with the shroud lines and ratlines on a piece of manila folder material. I set the template behind the shrouds and sitting on the channel. I first tie all the ratlines fo
  11. Outstanding job as usual Dan. How you dealt with that decaying rigging is just amazing.
  12. I checked the chains and they pretty well follow the shrouds. The aft ones could be more angled I suppose. I added the fore crows feet today and this is the first time I have put crows feet on a model. It was tricky getting the tensions right and they are probably a little loose but if I tighten them more it pulls the stay out of line so I am going to go with this. The line behind them is just the excess that I haven't trimmed off yet.
  13. Thank you Kirill for your nice comments. I have used templates in the past for setting deadeyes but was not always happy with the results. The deadeyes in the photo above are just held with a single sliding seizing. I can then adjust the heights of the deadeyes later and fix the seizings in place when I am happy with the heights. I have used this method since I built the Constitution and I like it much better as I can adjust everything on the model. As for the chains I will have to check them as they do look of in the picture. Here I have added the real fore stay and fixed the dead
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