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usedtosail

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About usedtosail

  • Birthday 04/27/1955

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    Male
  • Location
    Eastern shore of Newfound Lake, NH

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  1. I added the head rail supports to the stem then glued on the head rails. Next are the planks for the head area, which on this model get put on under the supports, which does not seem right to me but I am doing it that way. I have the two outside planks glued on. All of these pieces will be painted black eventually, but for now I just painted the ends of the head rails and planks where they are glued to the stained hull to make it easier later when I paint the rest of them.
  2. I finished the deck pin rails and glued them to the deck using a piece of wire as a pin. I then glued in the pump which is a tight fit between the ladder and pin rail. There are four windows that go on the side of the hull. Instead of painting black beneath the window frames I glued black construction paper onto the back of the frames. I thought about putting acetate between the paper and the frames but I didn't like the look. The first item to be installed on the head area is a decorative piece that is laser cut and fits in the op
  3. The kit provides a couple of square laser cut pieces that you are supposed to plank over and glue on top of the deck planking for the hatches. Instead I left the hatches unplanked when I planked the deck. I used the table saw to cut a rabbet into a 1/8" square strip of wood then cut out the four sides of the hatch coamings. I am using 45 degree angle joints for this which I know is not right but that's what I did. Here you can see my hatch coaming on the right hatch with the supplied hatch cover piece on the left. I then cut strips of wood for the hatch cover and glued
  4. So it turns out the sheaves are on the main deck not the lower deck so I will have no problem rigging the lines through them. After I finished adding the rest of the rails and staining them, I glued the ladders in place. I glued the sheave covers to the hull and drilled through them for the sheaves. I assembled the gun port lids and glued them to the hull too, along with the transom decorations. I am in the process of making the hatch coaming and hatch covers, which will be added next.
  5. Thanks Jonathan and for the likes. I have all the rails on the outside of the hull now. I only need to touch up the paint on the ends where I sanded them flush with the hull. You can also see that I have started the rail on the inside edge of the fore deck. It just needs to be stained. I will be adding similar rails to the to stern upper decks. The ladder is not installed yet but it is just there to see where the rail needed to end. I learned from Popeye's build log of this kit that the Corel model has covers for the sheaves in the hull that are lion heads.
  6. I completed the new ladders and here they are on the right with the old ladders on the left. Now they need some oak stain before adding them to the decks. I am going to add the jack staff between decks before I add the ladders, so I made it and will stain it too along with the slotted trim piece that goes on the bottom of it. I continue to add the upper rails to the outside of the hull. I have to do these one or two at a time so it is taking some time.
  7. I finally attached the rudder to the hull. Because the tiller was already attached to the rudder I could not attach the gudgeons to the hull and slide the pintles into them, so I glued them to the pintles after gluing the pintles to the rudder, making sure they were all aligned. I was then able to slide the whole assembly onto the stern post and glue the gudgeons to the hull. I was a bit skeptical but it worked very well. I then made the upper rails. The lowest of these is bent around the bow but the others are just straight sections on the sides of the hull. I bent th
  8. Lars, Nice work for only your second model. I built the Mamoli Beagle many years ago and I remember how much fun it was but it was also very challenging.
  9. I attached the three lower rails to the hull. Since I couldn't clamp these I used medium CA to attach them. This was not without consequences though. I had to clean up excess glue along them in places and touch up the finish around them. I think they came out OK. I also painted some of the decorations for the transom and hull. Most of these are plastic pieces but once painted they look pretty good. The next step will be to attach the rudder then make the upper hull rails.
  10. I started making the rails that go around the outside of the hull. I soaked each wood strip and bent them with an electric plank bender, then pinned them to the hull to dry. After I made the six strips for the three lower rails, I sanded them then gave them two coats of black paint. I also gave the stained part of the hull a coat of Wipe On Poly and painted the bottom portion of the rudder with a few coats of brown paint. I also finished the doors. I stained them with oak stain, gave them a coat of WOP and added nails heads as door handles.
  11. Finishing work on the hull continues. I did stain the upper hull planks with oak stain and did not have any noticeable bleed through, so I pretty happy with that. I also gave the bottom hull another few coats of the diluted burnt Sienna paint and it looks much more even now, which I am also happy about. The transition area between the stain and paint will be covered with a rail plank which will be painted black. I have also started painting the transom. The upper part is blue and the lower part is the same paint as the hull. The middle should have been oak stain but I
  12. Thanks Hardee and Patrick. I decided to only use the thinned paint under the bottom most hull rail, and will use the same Oak stain above it as on the inside bulwarks. This should solve the bleed through problem or at least make it less noticeable. I marked off the location of the bottom rail with masking tape and painted below that with the Burnt Sienna and black thinned paint. I gave it two coats then sanded it and gave it a coat of wipe on poly. I am going for a dark weathered hull look so I like how it came out. When this is completely dry I will remove the tape and mask off th
  13. I made a new rudder from some basswood sheet because I did not like the plywood one in the kit. I milled slots in the rudder for the pintles then made the pintles and gudgeons from brass strip and rod. Again I did not like the kit supplied plastic ones. I blackened them with Birchwood Casey blackening solution after pickling them because of the solder joints on the pintles. I made all of the belaying pin racks that attach to the rails and finished them with oak stain and WOP. I used Brass Brown on the belaying pins. You can see in the above picture that tiller that is
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