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About usedtosail

  • Birthday 04/27/1955

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    Eastern shore of Newfound Lake, NH

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  1. I am planking from both sides of the existing gap between the keel and the chine. I have been able to bend the planks near the keel but I have been spieling the planks along the chine. Here you can see the gap I left for one of the stealers that I will be adding at the transom. I am also planking up from the main rail along the aft section of the hull.
  2. I have been working on the planking from the chine to the keel. I have been spieling planks to fit at the bow and even removed bow sections of previous planks and replaced them with spieled sections. I am going to have to add some extra plank sections at the transom but for now I am just adding full width planks from these bow sections.
  3. Thanks Popeye and Steven. Popeye, this kit has the laser cut parts and the basswood planking so I don't think it is too old. Its the first Billings kit I have done though so I am getting used to their assembly instructions. I am glad this is not my first model. A milestone of sorts - the planking is completed on both sides from the main rail to the chine. It is still pretty ugly but with lots of sanding and scraping it should be OK. This planking has been very different than other hulls I've done but I think I can move on to planking from the chine to the keel now.
  4. More planking being done but the weather here has turned fantastic so less time in the shop. I added a spieled plank to partially fill the gap and resoaked the rail plank to get a better fit.
  5. Thanks Patrick. I do plan to make a hole myself. I have been searching through photos of the replica but none of them show that area clearly. They all seem to be dark in that area. Maybe time to dust off my image processing skills and see if I can enhance one of those photos to see it.
  6. I experimented with spieling the plank that goes above the one in the picture in the previous post and was able to get a good fit around the bow. The rest of it is pretty straight but does change width a lot due to the edge bending of the planks above it. I have also been trying to figure out where the bow sprit goes into the hull. Most of the pictures I can find are of the Corel kit which shows the bow sprit going through the little front deck, but the angle on the stem of this kit has it going through the front bulkhead, which is what the only other Billings kit pictures I can find did. There is just so much of this kit that has no instruction or plans, like the bow sprit installation and the rudder. There is a piece of wood on top of the rudder that goes into the hull but does it go through a slot or a round hole? Questions like that are keeping me up at night.
  7. Thanks Halfdan. More bulkheads would be nice. Well I had to put on the brakes yesterday and reassess this planking job. The planks at the bow were not laying flat as l planked down and the edge bending was becoming way too severe. I removed two planks on the starboard side then just bent a plank with the bow curve and clamped it where it wanted to lay flat. I will have to plank around this one with some drop and added planks and maybe some spieled ones too. I am going to work on just the starboard side for now to see if I can get it planked without crazy plank bends. This morning I added another plank on the starboard side again letting it go where it wanted to. I guess this is the Zen method of planking. I am happier with these two planks and I think filling in between them will be a lot better. We shall see...
  8. Planking continues. I have added planks down from the rail and up from the chine. The bow area is still the most difficult to get right with some edge bending required to keep the clinkering effect down. So far I am pleased with the results. There are two planks above the main deck level that wrap around the bow. Since there are no supports in the bow for these I soaked two full width planks and wrapped them around the planks at the main deck level to shape them. After they dried I glued them to those planks. They fit really well so I am happy. The second plank will be slightly less in height so I need to rip some plank stock for them.
  9. Sad news indeed. He was a great modeler and will be missed.
  10. I have been adding more planks on each side down from the main deck. After adding five planks on each side I bent the planks that run along the chine. I did this to see how these planks would fit and also to remeasure the remaining space for the planks between. They line up nicely at the bow and the stern. After gluing these on I will redo the planking plan for the gap and probably plank both up and down to fill the gap.
  11. I finished planking the transom and sanded the ends flush with the transom piece. The hull planks will overlap and hide these ends. I decided to add some filler blocks between the stem and the first bulkhead to help with shaping the planks where they bend severely and to give me a larger gluing surface. I used some chunks of basswood for the fillers. They look ugly in the picture but they are faired. I then soaked and bent the first plank along the main deck on the port side. It is clamped onto the bulkheads to dry. I then did the same on the starboard side. I have 12 planks to add on each side down to the chine, then 9 planks from the chine to the keel, so this will take a while.

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