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Everything posted by usedtosail

  1. Outstanding job as usual Dan. How you dealt with that decaying rigging is just amazing.
  2. I checked the chains and they pretty well follow the shrouds. The aft ones could be more angled I suppose. I added the fore crows feet today and this is the first time I have put crows feet on a model. It was tricky getting the tensions right and they are probably a little loose but if I tighten them more it pulls the stay out of line so I am going to go with this. The line behind them is just the excess that I haven't trimmed off yet.
  3. Thank you Kirill for your nice comments. I have used templates in the past for setting deadeyes but was not always happy with the results. The deadeyes in the photo above are just held with a single sliding seizing. I can then adjust the heights of the deadeyes later and fix the seizings in place when I am happy with the heights. I have used this method since I built the Constitution and I like it much better as I can adjust everything on the model. As for the chains I will have to check them as they do look of in the picture. Here I have added the real fore stay and fixed the dead
  4. Thanks for the likes guys. I placed the lower masts with the mast coats and added the shrouds to the fore mast. I first seized deadeyes into the shrouds and set the initial heights but did not fix the seizings yet. I will add the lanyards then recheck the heights and fix the seizings then. I added a temporary fore stay to hold the mast at the correct angle, which for this ship is actually tilted forward. The quad hands are new for me and I really like them for holding lines that are on the ship for seizing. They are a lot easier to use than the usual helping hands with the two alli
  5. Thank you Patrick and Popeye. I have been working on making rope for the rigging and also stropping blocks for the masts. I added the deadeyes for the topmast shrouds to the main crows nest. To strop them I used rope instead of wire, mainly because the holes in the crows nest were pretty small. I first seized a loop into a short length of line then dipped both ends into thin CA to stiffen them. I passed the ends through the holes one at a time and then tied an overhand knot using both ends. I put a deadeye in the loop and pulled the ends tight, then fixed the knot and trimmed the e
  6. Here is some of the progress from today. Dingy is now tied down to the deck with the oars. And I added the gammonings to the bow sprit with polyester rope that I made yesterday. I also made the knight heads for the fore deck and the euphroes for the crows feet, as well as a bunch more rope for the standing rigging.
  7. The dingy is finally compete. I finished painting the hull today, so now I just need to lash it to the deck. I have also finished the oars for the dingy and the topmasts and flags poles. Here is the bow sprit with the collars for the main, fore, and fore topmast stays. Next will be adding the gammoning lines to hold it down. Since I took this picture I have actually replaced these collars with new ones made with new polyester rope (see below). I had made all the rope I need for the standing rigging, which was mostly mad
  8. I bought some of the Gutterman MARA polyester thread that Chuck suggested and I made some test rope today that is much better than the rope I have been making. His recipe document is spot on. I have never been able to make good rope over about 0.025" in diameter, but with this thread I was able to make rope up to 0.045" with no problem. Cooking the rope for 5 minutes in a toaster oven kept it from unraveling like magic. I am now in the process of replacing all the rope I already made for my current model with this new rope. It is just that much better. Thank you Chuck for letting us in on your
  9. Thanks Popeye. I almost made it to the vaccination before I got sick. Since then I have gotten both shots so I have a lot of immunity now. How about you, did you get the Fauci Ouchi yet? Thanks for the kind words on the crows nests. They are far from perfect but I am OK with that. Yes, the vacuum formed ships boat hull was supplied in the kit. Based on the scale it just looked too small to me, as did my first attempt on the dingy. The Cutter kit from Vanguard was fun to build, even though I did not use any of the interior parts because they were the wrong scale, but the hull seemed just right
  10. Not so fast Louie. I still have to add the interior details to the dingy, starting with the ribs. Second coat of oak stain on the masts and crows nests. I did finish making all the rope I need for the standing rigging (I think) including the lines for the deadeye lashings and bow sprit gammoning.
  11. The dingy is coming along. I finished planking and here is how it looked before sanding and before the plank ends were trimmed at the bow. Not great but I could work with it. The next thing I did was to cut the transom off and finish the planks at the previous bulkhead. This gave it more of a dingy shape. I also added wood filler to the outside of the hull and sanded it back to get a smooth hull. I then removed the bulkheads as described in the instructions which went much better than I expected. After a little re-gluing of planks here is how it looks now.
  12. More planking on the dingy, now from the keel up. The thin pear strips are really nice to work with as they bend easily after soaking in hot water for 1 minute. Another nice feature in this mini kit is that there are openings in the bulkheads that allow me to use those thin clamps to hold the planks flat to the bulkheads while I curve the ends of the plank. I filed flats in the main mast and glued the cheeks on. I had first used the cheeks as a guide to glue the crosstrees to the underside of the crows nest, then used the crows nest to get the cheeks in the right posit
  13. Planking the dingy continues, as well as assembling the main crows nest. I am using the smallest office clips as clamps and so far they are working well. On the crows nest I have added the new supports to the middle ring and glued them to the bottom ring. The top ring in the picture has also been glued onto the tops of the supports this morning. I put a weight on the top to hold it down while the glue dried.
  14. I faired the bulkheads for the dingy and glued a top plank to them. These are pear wood planks that are laser cut and very easy to work with. I soaked it in hot water for a minute and it was very flexible. When it dried I started doing the same with the plank on the other side, but in the process I broke off the stem. I was able to glue it back on with CA and it seems to be holding well, so I was able to bend and clamp the other plank to dry. I started gluing the main crows nest pieces together but every time I tried to glue one of the support pieces in place it delaminated. So I made new supp
  15. Well another change of plans (Plan C?). I ordered my next kit, the Vanguard Duchess of Kingston, and while I was on the Vanguard site I ordered the 18' Cutter kit, which at this scale is about 12', which with some modification should make a great dingy. The layered version I was working on seemed too narrow to me. So here is what the kit looks like. I started by removing the base and the bulkheads from the MDF and the keel and transoms from the small laser cut sheet. I placed the bulkheads in the base and glued the keel onto them, which fit nicely after joggling the bu
  16. I ordered this Duchess of Kingston kit from Vanguard in the UK over the weekend and to my surprise it showed up today. I can't wait to start this one.I will be giving the completed model to some very good friends of ours who have graciously accepted to display it for me in their house. It always seems such a commitment asking someone to take a completed model but this will be the second given to friends and I love seeing them when we go to visit. Anyway I fell in love with the model because of all the detail. It will probably be Summer before I start it as I need to finish the Half Moon first.
  17. Whoops I forgot to take a picture of the boat hull stack before sanding. Sorry. Here is the hull after a few hours of sanding. I mostly used the Dremel with the small sanding drum and the two burrs shown. I also used a small flat file to shape the inner transom area and the pieces of sandpaper to finish up inside and out. It is not done yet but it is getting there.
  18. I finished the channels by gluing the external strips over the chain plates then adding some wood filler and painting them black again. Next up is the ship's boat. The kit provided a plastic hull and some wood pieces to fit on it, but I don't like it at all. My preferred method for these boats is to make them up in layers to make the hull, then add wood details inside and out. I have some plans that I scale to the size of boat needed, then glue the templates to sheet wood with a glue stick. I roughly cut out the outside shapes with a jig saw but use an X-Acto knife to
  19. What a beautiful model Dan. I too am recovering from COVID and find the modeling time a big therapeutic help. Get well and stay safe my friend.
  20. Sorry for lack of progress these last 2 weeks. I have been hospitalized recovering from COVID but am back home now. I think this week I will be ready to get back to work on the Half Moon.
  21. With the channels in place, I cut tenons in the bottoms of the three mast dowels and fit them into the holes in the decks. I blackened the chain plates and stropped the lower deadeyes with 28 gauge wire, leaving a small space to get the chain plate through the strop. I used thin CA to hold the strop to the deadeye with the joint of the strop at the bottom with the holes aligned correctly. I used an angle gauge to set the main mast at the correct angle and tied a line to the it where the shrouds come together at the top. I used the line to mark the angles of the main ch
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