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JPett

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    North East Coast USA
  • Interests
    Astronomy, history, motorcycles, the ocean, writing, reading, happiness; pretty much everything interests me. I am easlily entertained.

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  1. Ahoy Mark I will second Augie's remark. There's a bit of work in that there pic She looks great
  2. Ahoy Buck No but I drove one once at a trade show and watched a full demo. It uses gluons to fuse molecules at an atomic level . You'll love it I want one for my PE. It really is the bomb. You can solder one thing right next to the other and not melt any other solder except on the part your working on. Think tack welder meets soldering iron. It really is you.
  3. Ahoy Buck If your going to go down this road and we all know you will; you might want to start saving those penny's. About 39000 of them will get you a really nice set up http://www.all-spec.com/products/10541.html?gclid=CNiYnPD_nsQCFU8Q7AodaXIApA#nowhere These things are the bomb
  4. Ahoy Mike I use the Rocket Air globe http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2791-giottos-super-rocket-air/?p=76162 I find them easy to use and very effective
  5. Ahoy Mates Here is another really good video that answers many basic questions. Lots of common sense info. He also demos an inexpensive can adapter for airbrushing large areas that might be all some hobbyist need
  6. Ahoy Mates In my never-ending quest to improve my airbrushing techniques and models I have found this video It is not an airbrushing video although he does use airbrushing paints. Most noticeably Vallejo's new Metal Model Air colors which may be of interest to many here. What he achieves is impressive. The author has also turned me onto a new hobby. Airbrushing plastic utensils. They are cheap and provide an excellent surface in which to develop painting skills, new techniques or possible color combinations before applying them to your models. I am developing a collection of spo
  7. Ahoy HSM It should be noted that when you cover your needle and backwash your airbrush you should never follow this up by spraying. It should always be the last step before you dump your cup or empty the jar so you don't contaminate your airbrush. This is a great link for anyone interested in cleaning their airbrush (Any Brand) http://www.iwata-medea.com/support/faqs/faqs-airbrush-maintenance-and-cleaning/
  8. Ahoy Phil I put a single wrap of Tamiya tape where the knurled lock down knob meets the handle. This is all it takes to prevent it from backing off, keeping the blade firmly in the jaw.
  9. Thx Spiff I will have to try your 10 pound suggestion as I am also big on lots of thinner. I am not a skim milk drinker so I tilt the paint in the cup and watch how it runs back down. For me it should immediately run back leaving only a slightly opaque film on the wall of the cup. When I mix up batches I use a glass jar and this same technique I love my Neo Perhaps you could do a post on how you do your mottled camo.
  10. Ahoy Canute I have read many comments about being very careful when using ammonia in my airbrush. I use Windex and cheap glass cleaners all the time as a quick rinse and have even found mixing some in with acrylics helps the paint to settle. I always dilute it though and never use it straight. Word is prolonged use of ammonia products can damage the chrome plating on the internal parts of your airbrush.
  11. Ahoy Buck You're are really starting to scare me. Any smaller and you might run afoul and split an atom. Your neighbors would not take to kindly to this.
  12. Ahoy Twintrow If it helps the biggest problem I had when I started out was rushing. Airbrushing requires prep, patience and practice. Lots of practice, I shoot between 20 and 25 PSI, thin the crap out of everything and never rush. Learn to build up layers. The best advice I can give you is to go out and buy some cheap model kits and start painting. Once you get into the grove you will be amazed at how good some of these cheap kits can look with a good paint job. I am a PE addict and love resign kits that have a ton of it. The PE will really test your skill with the airbrush. Especially tr
  13. Ahoy Mates PRIMING 101 PE and Resin Any of us that have experience airbrushing resign or PE know the importance of a good primer. After much experimenting and many disasters I use exclusively Mr Hobby Resign primer and Mr Hobby Leveling thinner. Either one could be the poster child for dangerous chemicals used in the hobby industry so a proper paint booth and mask are requirements. This combination does adhere to resins very well and not come off when using low tack tape. It also does not flake or ship off when sanded like many other primers. A coat of Johnson's however will make
  14. Ahoy Mates With all the interest I see here on MSW about airbrushing I thought it would be helpful to have a thread that allows those with more experience to share what they know with those who are just starting out in. If there are enough responses I will request the thread get pinned Please free free to post what ever you like, questions, answers, practicums, links to your videos or other logs here on MSW that you think might be helpful to others
  15. Ahoy Mates I don't think there is a wrong way or better tool. I think it depends on what kind of finish you want on your ship. I always use my airbrush on plastic and resign kits but it has not touched any of my wooden ships yet. This does not mean it won't, but just that I have not found it necessary yet. For stains and dyeing wood, a brush or rag is the better tool; but should I decide to do a clear coat my ship with a dull urethane when I am done I will use my airbrush to do this. It will do the best job to preserve all the detail, especially on the deck. Truth be told a spray can
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