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    Chester, UK

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  1. Incidentally, I’m not sure why some pics appear small and some large. They’re all taken with the same device, and all approximately the same size (in mb).
  2. Well, the gammoning is done now. I think it looks OK. The only thing I’m not happy with is that after running the thread through beeswax, I’m left with some pale residue on the thread which looks a bit unsightly close up. Not sure if its because the wax is cold or if its due to some other reason. In any case, I’ve left it as it for now. There’s nothing stopping me redoing it if I have better results waxing the shrouds etc. I’ve pretty much reached the end of the written instructions now, other than to follow some vague guidelines about the anchors, but I thought they might get in th
  3. A brief update on my Flyer build. I’ve reworked the bowsprit bitt so that sits better with the bowsprit in place, and have been working on the ‘jib boom’ (which I previously thought was all part of the bowsprit). It needed tapering quite a lot, not least so that the bowsprit cap would slide on into the correct place. Most of the parts that need tapering are short enough that I can use my Dremel workstation as a vertical lathe to sand them to the correct diameter. I butchered a small screwdriver to create ‘teeth’ with which to turn the dowels. I added a small piece o
  4. Wow - it’s been over 9 months since my last update on the good old Flyer. Progress over the summer was always going to be slow (even slower than usual) as I spend as much time as possible outside! I’ve since resumed work. The carronade is now built. The woodwork was pretty straight forward. I’ve used Brass Black again to blacken (all) metal parts. I’m not quite so happy with the finish on the carronade itself. It seems the larger the part, the more challenging it is to achieve a nice smooth and uniform finish. So this had a couple of treatments, and I think it looks ‘OK
  5. A brief update on my Flyer build. In the end, I decided to cut away a groove in the pinrails so that they would fit around the stanchions, and I could fit them in the correct place according to the plans. It may have been easier to cut away a portion of the stanchion, but they seem to be very well glued to the bulwarks, so I left them well alone! The grooves that I cut out are a pretty close match to the stanchions, and any inaccuracy is nicely hidden by the gallant rails. I’m happy with how they look... And a pic with belaying pins and the deck furniture (nothing gl
  6. A brief update from this weekend, and a question if I may... I shaped and attached the chainwales over the weekend. They were OK, although I found it quite difficult to shape the inside of the 2 nearest the bow to accurately match the hull profile. Through much sanding, much trial and error and many, many dry fits I think I achieved a relatively close match, although they are not perfect. The ones for the main mast required much less shaping as the hull profile carries much less curve there. Now for the question... I started shaping the pinrails. These a
  7. The next step was the davits. These were pretty straight forward. The stern davits just needed cutting and shaping slightly. Although the instructions state that 1.5mm holes should be drilled in a strip of 2mm width. I chickened out fearing cracking the wood, and went with 1mm holes instead. There will not be any thread going through these holes in any case. The bow ones were 2 pieces and had to fit around the gallant rail. I’m pretty happy with the close fit I achieved. Then a blackened eyelet went through both parts. There will be thread going through the holes on these, so they a
  8. Next job was the gallant rails. These are all laser cut ply. There is a piece that runs down each bulwark, and a piece to go over the transom. The transom piece needed bending before fitting. Initially I tried to bend the wood against the shape left in the ply sheet having cut the transom out. However (to your earlier advice Peter) this left me with too little curve, and edges that did not sit flush on the transom. Cue walking aimlessly around the house looking for circular things of the perfect diameter that I could bend wood against. I settled on a cake tin which worked well! Again - I paint
  9. Having completed the wardroom, I thought I would also get on with the two hatches that sit on the deck. This was pretty straight forward, just a case of partial cuts into the centre piece of ayous wood to simulate adjoining planks, and fixing some sapelly edging strips around the outside. I went for 45 degree corners again and I’m happy with the end result. A ‘ring’ then has to go into each end of each ‘plank’. The rings are actually small brass eyelets. They need to go into each plank and get bent over so that they sit flush with the wood. I wasn’t sure whether th
  10. Thank you both for having a look at my log and for your encouraging comments. In fairness, my comments about rigging guidance were a little tongue in cheek, although that statement in the instructions certainly brought a smile to my face! I’m so far off reaching the rigging part that I’ve not looked too closely at the plans that are provided yet, but I’ve no doubt I will be reaching out to some of the wealth of expertise here on MSW. So far, I’m thoroughly enjoying the ‘wooden bit’ coming together. I actually started this build about 6 weeks ago so my log is still catching up a bit
  11. On to the wardroom then, to see if I would have enough manzonia strip left over for my extra stanchions! I drilled a right angled brace into some chipboard to start off to make sure that my wardroom walls were vertical. The first wall was clamped on to the brace, and the rest glued onto that. Then the roof was glued on to the walls and fit nicely (it’s all laser-cut ply). Next I cut the manzonia edging strips and glued them on. Finally the wardroom door, hatch and windows were glued on. I’m not sure if I did something wrong with the windows. The sizes
  12. Next up were the stanchions. When fitting these, I realised that I had another problem due to my deck planking. Namely that I ran out of wood! The stanchions needed to be glued to the bulwarks in line with the transversal planking lines across the deck. Because of where I started my planking, I ended up needing 2 ‘extra’ stanchions. The same wood (albeit slightly thicker) is used for some of the deck furniture, so I’m hoping that there will be enough left over to thin down and put my extras in. You can see the gap at the stern. I cut each stanchion ever so slightly taller than the b
  13. Thank you Peter for the kind words, and for the advice on bending wood. I dont’ think I have any more to do on this model, but will definitely take this on board for the next one. Will
  14. Next the wales went on. I bent them using the same template and technique as for the bulwarks. They were varnished rather than painted, and glued in place. I got a nice fit at the bow, and they do indeed cover off the gaps between hull and bulwark at the stern. Oh, and the Barcelona snuck into the background... Finally I could turn the model the right way up! So far so good (I think!) Thanks for looking.
  15. I decided to reorder the instructions slightly, and fit the keel, stem and sternpost/rudder (one piece) before the wales and stanchions. The reason being I thought it would be easier to get a nice fit between wales and stem if the stem was already fixed. The stem needed a small hole cutting into it, through which the thread attaching the bowsprit will go. I drilled 2 holes at each end of the planned hole, cut away the middle and filed it. Dry fit reavealed some significant gaps. I sanded the stem to get a close fit knowing that I’d be using some filler afterwards. The k
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