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  1. Incidentally, I’m not sure why some pics appear small and some large. They’re all taken with the same device, and all approximately the same size (in mb).
  2. Well, the gammoning is done now. I think it looks OK. The only thing I’m not happy with is that after running the thread through beeswax, I’m left with some pale residue on the thread which looks a bit unsightly close up. Not sure if its because the wax is cold or if its due to some other reason. In any case, I’ve left it as it for now. There’s nothing stopping me redoing it if I have better results waxing the shrouds etc. I’ve pretty much reached the end of the written instructions now, other than to follow some vague guidelines about the anchors, but I thought they might get in the way, and will take care of them later. So from here on, its uncharted territory for me! I built the stand, only because I noticed whilst doing the gammoning that when I applied any kind of downward pressure to tighten the thread, the cradle I was using would tip. It’s supposed to be clamped to a desk, but my desk is not flat underneath. The stand gives me a bit more stability. There’s supposed to be a nice sapelly (sapele?) strip around the edge of the base. When I started cutting the edging to size, I ran out of wood after 3 sides, because of my repeated attempts to create pinrails that I was happy with from the same strip. 😞 The next step would be the chainplates/deadeyes. For this model, this is just wound copper wire (Constructo say its brass, but I’m sure its not) pinned into the hull. I attempted to blacken the wire, but Brass Black would not darken it at all. For now it will remain shiny copper. I’ve tried to line up the angles of the chainplates with how the shrouds will lie by measuring up the mast, and taping thread at the correct height. Then I ran the thread down past the drilled holes in the chainwales and marked where the pin would go into the hull. To my untrained eye, it looks about right, but time will tell when the shrouds go on! I’ve only done one set so far. I find I end up spending far more time thinking about how I will do something, than actually doing it. The other 3 sets should be pretty straight forwards, and then onto the more tricky bits. Here she is so far. Will.
  3. A brief update on my Flyer build. I’ve reworked the bowsprit bitt so that sits better with the bowsprit in place, and have been working on the ‘jib boom’ (which I previously thought was all part of the bowsprit). It needed tapering quite a lot, not least so that the bowsprit cap would slide on into the correct place. Most of the parts that need tapering are short enough that I can use my Dremel workstation as a vertical lathe to sand them to the correct diameter. I butchered a small screwdriver to create ‘teeth’ with which to turn the dowels. I added a small piece of scrap deck plank to sit between the bowsprit and boom, just to make sure that the angles were consistent. I painted it white to try to disguise it in case the woolding didn’t cover it completely. Thankfully the woolding did cover it so that it can’t be seen at all. I’m trying to stick with authenticity where realistically possible. I’ve not yet purchased any books on rigging etc, but probably will do in the near future. For the woolding, I followed some guidance from this site here, and managed to get a decent result after a couple of attempts. In theory, it should remain fast, but I coated it in PVA/water just in case! And dry fitted, snug under the new bowsprit bitt. Looking forward to doing the gammoning and making some more progress this weekend. I’ve been trying to see if I can splice a ‘rope’ but at this scale it’s beyond me as the thread is much too thin. So I’ve tested a cheat, where I’ve looped some thread around a cocktail stick, and then created some tight twists which I’ve clamped in place and applied PVA/water. It seems to hold OK, and given the thread diameter, it looks fine too. Thanks for looking, Will.
  4. Wow - it’s been over 9 months since my last update on the good old Flyer. Progress over the summer was always going to be slow (even slower than usual) as I spend as much time as possible outside! I’ve since resumed work. The carronade is now built. The woodwork was pretty straight forward. I’ve used Brass Black again to blacken (all) metal parts. I’m not quite so happy with the finish on the carronade itself. It seems the larger the part, the more challenging it is to achieve a nice smooth and uniform finish. So this had a couple of treatments, and I think it looks ‘OK’. I’m not totally sure what should be blackened and what should remain brass, so at the moment I’m blackening all metallic parts. I’m generally happy with how it’s looking so far. The other thing I’ve put off so far is the ‘rope work’ associated with the carronade. Constructo seem to have simplified it somewhat. I’m undecided as to whether to attempt something more authentic. I can’t find much guidance out three for these deck-mounted swivel carronades. Father Christmas brought me a Dremel and Workstation this year, which has made some of the problems I was facing with manual drilling much easier, particularly with the very thin pinrail posts. So they are now firmly attached to the deck. I’m now ready to start with the bowsprit. But in doing so I realised that the bowsprit bitt that I made leaves a big gap, so I need to make a new one. I assume the idea is that the horizontal piece of the bitt rests against the top edge of the bowsprit? I’ve also created a tiller which took some considerable patience due to the scale - it required cutting a groove out of the tiller such that it would fit over the top of the rudder post. Even having narrowed the rudder post, there is very little room for manoeuvre. I think this is the fiddliest part I’ve had to deal with so far in the build. Thanks for looking, Will.
  5. A brief update on my Flyer build. In the end, I decided to cut away a groove in the pinrails so that they would fit around the stanchions, and I could fit them in the correct place according to the plans. It may have been easier to cut away a portion of the stanchion, but they seem to be very well glued to the bulwarks, so I left them well alone! The grooves that I cut out are a pretty close match to the stanchions, and any inaccuracy is nicely hidden by the gallant rails. I’m happy with how they look... And a pic with belaying pins and the deck furniture (nothing glued yet though)! Incidentally, I also tidied up my little gallant rail filler at the bow. It’s quite hard to see now, so happy with the result. I started on the pinrails for the masts. These just comprise 2 posts and the horizontal rail, all with grooves cut in such that they ‘interlock’. Additionally, I had to drill a hole into the base of each post, and will put a piece of brass into it. Presumably this is just to anchor it to corresponding holes in the deck. Is it normal? I would have expected just glue would suffice? I’m struggling a bit to get nicely aligned holes drilled. In spite of measuring properly, it seems when I start drilling, there is just a little movement away from centre. It’s quite noticeable when holes are close together. Any recommendations on this at all? Pics below. Thanks for looking! Will.
  6. A brief update from this weekend, and a question if I may... I shaped and attached the chainwales over the weekend. They were OK, although I found it quite difficult to shape the inside of the 2 nearest the bow to accurately match the hull profile. Through much sanding, much trial and error and many, many dry fits I think I achieved a relatively close match, although they are not perfect. The ones for the main mast required much less shaping as the hull profile carries much less curve there. Now for the question... I started shaping the pinrails. These are essentially shorter versions of the chainwales, and as such should be straight forward. But my planking/stanchion placement has come back to haunt me again. The plans/instructions slot the pinrails between stanchions. If the placement is critical, then I have stanchions in the way. The question is - should I attempt to cut a groove out of my pinrails to go around the stanchions? Or would I get away with shifting the pinrails half an inch or so forwards so that I can put them in between? (Photo below shows the approximate placement as per plans.) I can’t easily tell from the instructions what the pinrails will ultimately have attached to them so finding it difficult to judge what moving them forwards would mean. Thanks for looking, Will.
  7. The next step was the davits. These were pretty straight forward. The stern davits just needed cutting and shaping slightly. Although the instructions state that 1.5mm holes should be drilled in a strip of 2mm width. I chickened out fearing cracking the wood, and went with 1mm holes instead. There will not be any thread going through these holes in any case. The bow ones were 2 pieces and had to fit around the gallant rail. I’m pretty happy with the close fit I achieved. Then a blackened eyelet went through both parts. There will be thread going through the holes on these, so they are drilled to the correct size. Thankfully no problems. (Still work to do on that filler where the gallant rails meet!) And finally the ship so far! Nothing glued down yet, but looking almost like a ship!
  8. Next job was the gallant rails. These are all laser cut ply. There is a piece that runs down each bulwark, and a piece to go over the transom. The transom piece needed bending before fitting. Initially I tried to bend the wood against the shape left in the ply sheet having cut the transom out. However (to your earlier advice Peter) this left me with too little curve, and edges that did not sit flush on the transom. Cue walking aimlessly around the house looking for circular things of the perfect diameter that I could bend wood against. I settled on a cake tin which worked well! Again - I painted everything before attaching to prevent clumsiness later on. The gallant rails above the bulwarks did not need any bending. However, they did not fit together well at the bow and needed some sanding. In trying to get a perfect fit, I took away (way) too much. I couldn’t bend them together because this would mean that the bulwarks would be visible underneath (possibly only because of the bending issue mentioned in an earlier post where they don’t quite follow the hull curve at the bow). So I glued them following the curve of the bulwarks, and then cut a small filler piece as below. I’m still working slowly on making it as invisible as I can, but the result is not too bad.
  9. Having completed the wardroom, I thought I would also get on with the two hatches that sit on the deck. This was pretty straight forward, just a case of partial cuts into the centre piece of ayous wood to simulate adjoining planks, and fixing some sapelly edging strips around the outside. I went for 45 degree corners again and I’m happy with the end result. A ‘ring’ then has to go into each end of each ‘plank’. The rings are actually small brass eyelets. They need to go into each plank and get bent over so that they sit flush with the wood. I wasn’t sure whether they should be left brass, or should be blackened. I chose to blacken them. Having looked through various posts on here, decided to use Brass Black. It takes about 60 seconds to achieve a satisfactory blackened finish. At this point though, I started having problems. When I attempted to bend my first eyelet around some long nosed pliers, it snapped. As did my second. I wondered if the blackening process was making them brittle. I tried to bend another before blackening. I snapped it. I tried gentler bending techniques with soft wood. I think all but one of my attempts ended with a snapped eyelet. I was at the point of ordering some new eyelets when I thought I’d check one of the AL kits waiting to be built. Luckily, the Marie Jeanne has eyelets that are exactly the same size. And thankfully, they are rather more robust. With no more breakages I bent, clipped and blackened them. I drilled pilot holes in the hatches and fitted them. Brass ‘v’ black... Both hatches now have black rings. Looking at the close-up photo, I can see my first hatch (bottom) has some slightly longer rings. If there are any eyelets left I’ll re-do those!
  10. Thank you both for having a look at my log and for your encouraging comments. In fairness, my comments about rigging guidance were a little tongue in cheek, although that statement in the instructions certainly brought a smile to my face! I’m so far off reaching the rigging part that I’ve not looked too closely at the plans that are provided yet, but I’ve no doubt I will be reaching out to some of the wealth of expertise here on MSW. So far, I’m thoroughly enjoying the ‘wooden bit’ coming together. I actually started this build about 6 weeks ago so my log is still catching up a bit - hence the posts coming thick and fast at the moment. Thanks again, Will
  11. On to the wardroom then, to see if I would have enough manzonia strip left over for my extra stanchions! I drilled a right angled brace into some chipboard to start off to make sure that my wardroom walls were vertical. The first wall was clamped on to the brace, and the rest glued onto that. Then the roof was glued on to the walls and fit nicely (it’s all laser-cut ply). Next I cut the manzonia edging strips and glued them on. Finally the wardroom door, hatch and windows were glued on. I’m not sure if I did something wrong with the windows. The sizes stated in the instructions simply wouldn’t fit on the wardroom walls due to the sloping roof. So mine are cut slightly smaller. And the good news is - I have enough manzonia left over to put in the extra stanchions! Incidentally - I’m cutting all my edging strips with 45 degree angles; purely because I think it looks better. Is there a ‘historically’ correct cut? The instructions have everything squared off so no clue what is actually correct... Thanks for looking, Will.
  12. Next up were the stanchions. When fitting these, I realised that I had another problem due to my deck planking. Namely that I ran out of wood! The stanchions needed to be glued to the bulwarks in line with the transversal planking lines across the deck. Because of where I started my planking, I ended up needing 2 ‘extra’ stanchions. The same wood (albeit slightly thicker) is used for some of the deck furniture, so I’m hoping that there will be enough left over to thin down and put my extras in. You can see the gap at the stern. I cut each stanchion ever so slightly taller than the bulwarks so that I could sand them down to create a decent surface on which to attach the gallant rails. And used trusty Lego to ensure right angles!
  13. Thank you Peter for the kind words, and for the advice on bending wood. I dont’ think I have any more to do on this model, but will definitely take this on board for the next one. Will
  14. Next the wales went on. I bent them using the same template and technique as for the bulwarks. They were varnished rather than painted, and glued in place. I got a nice fit at the bow, and they do indeed cover off the gaps between hull and bulwark at the stern. Oh, and the Barcelona snuck into the background... Finally I could turn the model the right way up! So far so good (I think!) Thanks for looking.
  15. I decided to reorder the instructions slightly, and fit the keel, stem and sternpost/rudder (one piece) before the wales and stanchions. The reason being I thought it would be easier to get a nice fit between wales and stem if the stem was already fixed. The stem needed a small hole cutting into it, through which the thread attaching the bowsprit will go. I drilled 2 holes at each end of the planned hole, cut away the middle and filed it. Dry fit reavealed some significant gaps. I sanded the stem to get a close fit knowing that I’d be using some filler afterwards. The keel/stem join left a big gap for filling too. The sternpost/rudder required a groove cutting into the single piece to simulate the gap between sternpost and rudder. I contemplated separating them completely, but the ‘hinges’ supplied do not allow this. So I cut the recommended groove and tried to paint black within it. Then I painted the remainder white before attaching. In hindsight I think I’ve gone from one extreme to the other, and the ‘gap’ stands out too much. I may try to dull this down somehow before the hinges go on later in the build. I did end up using some nails in addition to glue to ensure that the keel and stem were firmly attached. Thankfully the single nail in the stem should be barely noticeable.

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