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Jerry C

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  1. This is to any Bluenose buildres that might happen across this blog. I have an original Billings Bluenose that I started over 40 years ago. I managed to keep the hull, masts and booms but most everything has been lost to time. Reading this building log has inspired me to try and finish it. What I need is a set of plans. I have built other ships in the past and have a good supply of deadeyes and blocks. If anyone could point me in the right direction for a set of plans I would greately appreciate it.
  2. Having a sailboat and familiar with the forces generated by a full sail I would guess the deflection is caused by the upward force caused by the flying jib.
  3. Larry, I jumped onto your site the other day and mentioned that I was slightly behind you on my Niagara build. I am working on the channels for the chain plates and masts and trees. I haven't put any of the deck "stuff" on yet but have it made. These are not very good pictures but I thought I would give it a go since I have never attached any pictures before. So if they don't turn out contribute it to the learning curve.
  4. Larry, I made a serving machine from studying pictures of other machines and it was pretty simple. I got the gears from a hobby shop as well as the tubing. I have less than $25 invested. I tested it and with a little practice it worked great.
  5. Larry, I just jumped on your log and find that we are at about the same stage with Niagara. I am interested in your comments about the kit line as I have experimented with it and didn't like the way looked of felt. You mentioned Syren. Where do I find them? Once I figure out how to post pictures I'll probably start a log. Your build is looking good. Jerry
  6. Laxet, Nice job. I've been following your build from the beginning. I am not quite as far along as you with my Niagara but moving right along. I am ready to start mounting the carronades on the deck. I made a serving machine and it works pretty well. Did you use the rigging thread from the kit or another brand? I tried a test piece and used the smallest black thread but it seemed too stiff. I had some cotton thread but which worked better but it was too small in diameter to look right. Any suggestions!
  7. I understand where you are coming from. I too have made mistakes and had to go back and do over. My modeling background is super scale plastic model aircraft. I've been building them for over 30 years. I specialize in WW1 aircraft in 1/48 and 1/32 scale. I am aflicted with a desease common to serious scale modelers about detail. If it was on the real air plane I try to put in on my models. Building wood boats is a different world and requires a differant set of skills. That's why I have been following yours and Greatgallions building logs with such interest. This is my third boat and I hope it turns out as good as some of the ships I have seen on this website.
  8. I thought I would add my two cents relating to the lifeboats. I am just slightly behind you on my Niagara. I fooled around with one boat but just can't satisfy myself on finishing out the interior. Much too rough even with a lot of sanding and filler. I have opted to use the wood ones as a mold and vac form the three boats. Since the outside of the hull is very smooth on the one boat I have done so far this should translate to a very smooth inerior and if done right should result in a fairly uniform thickness. All of the other interior "stuff" will be wood like the plans show. I have thinned down the hull to make up for the thickness of the plastic styrene. Since the interior of all three boats will be visable I want things as "neat" as possible. Perhaps some others have tried this approach, but in my opinion it should save some time. It's very simple to make a vac form machine. Youtube has many examples. Anyway I have enjoyed your postings and will look forward to your progress. Jerry c
  9. I kow the feeling. I just finished "Race Horse" by Sergal and the rigging, in my opinion, wasn't even close to what I think it should have been. I went as far as the plans made sence then I made modifications from what I found in books of period ships. When I get to the rigging stage I am thinking about taking some colored felt tip markers and color coding the rigging plan to help me follow what line goes where. I am fairly new at rigged ships and just understanding the terminology has been a challange.
  10. Where did you get the gears and what are you using for the serving? I've been following your build and am not too far behind. I'm about ready to start the planking at the inside bulwarks. Wasen't going to start this project for a while but when I found your log I was inspired to get started. I hope you don't mind but I downloaded some of your pictures and use them for reference, and I must say they have been very helpful. I look forward to seeing how you do your rigging.
  11. Scott, Thanks for the tip. I haven't taken any pictures yet, been too busy working on the boat, but will try your suggestion soon.
  12. patrickmil, I have thought about starting a log but first I have to figure out how to post pics. I am finding my way around this site by trial and error. I've been looking at all of the Niagara build logs and found it a great source of information. Just reading the posts has answered some of my questions.
  13. Greatgalleons, The Niagara is my second ship and I've been inspired by your work. I have bunches of questions but if I asked then all at once this would be one long message. Perhaps the best way is to ask when I hit that point in my build. I am ready to start framing for the gun ports and sweeps. The stern has been troublesum, the plans show somewwhat of a arch to the top rail on the transom. All of my stanchion frames lined up flat across the top. I am not so far along that I couldn't redo the entire transom area. Any Thoughts? Jerry
  14. I hav been following your building log since I found MSW. Very impressed by the quality of your work. I am also building the Niagara an am at the stage where I have all of the bulkheads glued to the frame. In your earlier photos I see what looks like a piece of wood pinned to the top of the bulwark frames running the length of the boat. Perhaps I missed it but I didn't see this on the plans. I see what you did and it maks sence but did you have to cut down the top of the bulwark frames to allow for the correct opening for the gun ports?
  15. My first rigged boat was built 45 years ago and I used beeswax on all of the rigging. So far there has been no sign of any degenerating. Age as cause some of the lines to loosen a bit but they are still sound.
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