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About jwvolz

  • Birthday May 23

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    Pennsylvania, USA

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  1. Here's a few pictures. Hard to get ones through the case.
  2. Bob, Looked at mine and it looks similar. Hard to get a great view since it is in a case... One thing, maybe be reduce the size of the messenger a bit to better differentiate it from the actual anchor cable. Mine is about 1/2 the size of what you have there.
  3. Deck has been planked (including windlass pads and thick pads at the masts) and painted. I masked from templates I made copying the plans and airbrushed the white. The areas that I stained should be gray, based on the instructions, but I didn't like how much of the plank detail disappeared under the white paint, so I elected to just stain it a weathered color.
  4. Bob, I no longer have my plans, but according to the AOTS book the Crossjack yard is 183mm in length with a center section of 49.5mm. AOTS shows it round in the full diameter center section, so no onctagonal. I merely started the taper from that full diameter center section. It's hard to get the diameter from the AOTS drawings accurately as they are 1/96, and I converted the above measurements to 1/64. Your numbers look close. The mizzen topsail yard is octagonal in the center section according to the book, and I did build it that way.
  5. Looking fantastic Richard. All that metalwork is going to be "fun" for me when i get there. Not used to doing it, as I've built exactly one ship past 1815, and that was quite a while ago.
  6. Not a big update, but bulwarks planked to the main rail. Now working on the deck.
  7. Thanks guys. Building a fishing schooner is a nice change of pace from the warships.
  8. The false stanchions are complete. They're a bit time consuming, as each has a different inboard and outboard shape to follow the curve of the hull. Next to plank up the remaining area of the hull tot the top of the extensions.
  9. Hull planking is complete to the level of the main deck. I did edge bend where necessary, and the basswood is quite compliant in that regard.
  10. The paint underneath was definitely not dry. When I used to build plastic aircraft models I (and many others) swore by Future as a gloss coat over flat acrylics to provide a proper surface for decals. I always waited a week before applying it and never had a problem, and I only used acrylic paints (Tamiya, Polly Scale, Vallejo etc...). For final flat coat I typically used Polly Scale flat, but if you wait long enough and apply light mist coats with an airbrush you can even apply lacquer based Testor's Dullcote over acrylics.

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