torpedochief

I managed to get some wood from the VICTORY and turned it to a Fountain Pen.

Friends if you think you might be having a heart-related issue. Get to a Hospital fast. I almost shipped off to Fiddler's Green on Sunday. Two surgeries later and still in drydock. Would have been less damage to my main recirc pump had I gone when I was having pain.

I don't mean to make mountains out of molehills or be dramatic, however, doing research sometimes leads even us not so bright people into questions. I Need some help. Any welders, marine engineers, or shipwrights I need your opinion. Suppose we have a ship 15 years old. Designed for one load line, however, it was decided to increase the load line with no internal work. During inspection, it was noticed the hull plates and the keel welds were separating, and the keel was hogged. Repairs were to use steel plates and wedges welded between the keel and the plates. Would this repair be sufficient for continued loading beyond the designed load line?

built from scratch and using Evens LED lighthouse light. 4 feet tall

From many years ago. My COB found this and posted it.

These guys have some great bases for your waterline type projects. https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.coastalkits.co.uk%2Fnewstore%2Fships.html%3Ffbclid%3DIwAR0w-i8geoT0l2ymhm1R-7Rht0w0dhlQCC7QMmHhGRF-OD2afRNQnvEdS6I&h=AT07OBoXAXmm5i4u_JKyrid-TAhjAL1J_2p--8W2zsMSdy_wB8FfyYy3ExVSgmjxk3k_WkzZjpQC2mLN8ajkEgeVKjESb-Fk336d8nrY4JqgezbaavT2vupaXY-J8xfxdx3-rh_DYNJ07_TBAWDLldBkdqHcn0j_bmZMMAU67PyXPjqk348XmB7dMeaNTot6AoYn7UGEIG1976BbZTJ__Mfgletpwngzbh4xSHgrPanhAyP0HblBpHMJivFkKiTY37ai6JILcXVZOiIWn7H-Z5ZeglahZYmEWkyCL6d6GmOOCRlug2rQyl5jlSqzRDwCi4eVIucgofmMekJhRQaIKughX6uTiBmVJ5gEZ24DhCeA5ElxIRjPzeoDolSATQDvRGebVpK9t3AocCgOxacNfBvT_vbwpUe4UxohyQxhil_eG7vglt9VfXOgUetaQr-QzBZgRlycYfgJzaWRst_a1rnFp7M_KrO_DcY_8L_74bq_2tCYhGbWr2PhE2lwEnRbllbssRB6EtEgx1z1xG-sdakfC1pQUFhfymWF7CVNt_DQjAp22A2bUA9bEmUgd6ssa6ai3cIGFtVYwBhu7wCncVyADe495U7jTVj9gyu1VT8bLKySW-dDdoS_rujTnD_683vYQJbktA0t9taM88PkxJL5zBdkegkC0l99IOL7U5DmUkynURpD

Roger the only place on a Nuclear Submarine is the battery well. This wood is Rock Maple. It is boiled in wax for 24 hours. Every bit is therefore impregnated with the wax. This is done to prevent friction, and to lessen static in the well. The wood I have is from the DALLAS when she decommissioned. That was the finest submarine of the four I served on. I also have some from Trident class Boats. Each time the batteries are changed out they have to replace the wood. I also have some from the LaJolla. I do lots of projects for shipmates with it

A tutorial I did for some impatient folks who wondered why making their scratch built submarine models took so long.

The cheaper the magazine the better. Most have that plastic coating, but the higher quality the paper the harder it is to remove the paper and leave the toner. Whatever you use just please be careful. Every one of you, in my opinion, is a master modeler and we need to keep that talent intact.

The paper needed is the annoying advertisement paper that comes with the newspaper. The flyers inside. Magazine paper also works. Wefalck these are reversed from where I was using another method. He is correct you need to have them like this. As for the size of parts I have been able to do 1/700 scale railing for the EDMUND FITZGERALD, Flood grates on My Submodels in various scales and Awards for my German tank crews in 35 scale.

There is a way anyone can make photo-etched parts. You will need cheap newspaper advertisements the kind with the plastic coating, Ferrick Chloride, thin sheet brass, enamel paint, access to a laser printer, printing paper, clothing iron, 2 Plastic tubs, gloves, eye protection, plastic apron, and a well-ventilated area. 1. Design what you need using any program you want. 2. Using the laser printer, print the design on the cheap ad paper. The toner will melt onto the plastic which is what we want. 3. Clean the brass with wet 1500 grit sandpaper. Rinse with plenty of water and let dry. 4. When the brass is dry place the printed design face down so the black toner is in contact with the brass. 5. Place copy paper on top of the design. 6. Use a clothing iron on its high setting (NO STEAM) and go over the design. This is a slow steady process. Check the transfer of the toner to the brass by carefully lifting a corner. 7. Let the brass cool. 8. Soak the brass with the paper still attached in room temp tap water. The water will weaken the paper part and cause it to fall off. A gently rub with the fingertips helps some. This is another time-consuming process. 8. When the paper is totally gone you can see your design now on the brass. The toner acts as a resist to the Ferric Chloride. 9. Dry the brass and turn it over. Now use enamel paint orf Plasti-Dip to coat the back of the brass. This will stop the Ferric Chloride from eating everything. 10. When the enamel is fully dried you are ready to etch your parts. 11. Heat a pan of water. When just below boiling remove the pan from the heat. 12. Place the bottle of Ferric Chloride into the water and allow it to heat the chemical. 13. Fill one of your 2 plastic tubs with clean cool water. 14. Set both tubs next to each other. 15. When warm, and you have on your gloves, eye protection, plastic apron, and in a very ventilated area Pour the Ferric Chloride into the empty plastic tub just enough that it will cover your brass. 16. Place the brass into the chemical facing up. 17. Start rocking the tub back and forth. You will notice the brass dissolving from around your soon to be made parts. 18. When the waste brass is dissolved place the parts in the fresh water tub. Swirl them around to stop the chemical reaction. Change water and continue to swirl the parts. 19. If you used enamel paint, the parts are all loose unless you included a fret in your design. If you used Plasti-Dip they are embedded in the plastic. 20. Remove the parts and let them dry. Have a ball, my friends!! Here is a block and some lances and Harpoons I use