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mdkboggle

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About mdkboggle

  • Birthday 11/17/1964

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    Romford Essex

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  1. Bob Yea i am going to grout it with Blu Tack so i get no fungus problems like frank has said lol. Ok tiles so far This is the state of the tiling along the waterline so far. I may or may not add a finish strip but i will wait until both sides of the ship are completely tiled before i make my mind up. Anyway,so far i have this,,,, Tiling the waterline with no batten to hide edges. by Tim Doman, on Flickr Tiling the waterline with no batten to hide edges. by Tim Doman, on Flickr DSC_0405 by Tim Doman, on Flickr DSC_0406 by Tim Doman, on Flickr As usual the waterline will need a tidy up but so far it looks a hell of a lot better than i thought it would for a first timer effort. ok thanks for looking and back soon guys. Tim
  2. Hi all I have started to copper plate the hull but not as the instructions tell me to I have marked the waterline and then run masking tape along the line so it really stand out,bad eyes you see lol. I then set out 2 lines of tiles from the waterline in the standard brick fashion and then marked the vertical joint lines down to the keel. A spare plank was set 13 tile lines down to take up the natural bend of the hull,at the point where the plank bent round to meet the waterline at the bow and the stern.I spot glued this plank in place and used a pin at each end to secure it in place. I then tiled up and back toward the stern from this line toward the waterline. I have now painted some copper paint on the lower keel and another line of tiles will now start from the keel working up toward the line of tiles you can see set out along the plank.. I have never done this job before and i am following a build that comes from the book "Period Ship Handbook" Is it going to look ok or will i end up in trouble,,,well i dont know yet but i will find out the hard way lol. More to come on this as i get more done. .Copper plating the hull by Tim Doman, on Flickr Copper plating the hull by Tim Doman, on Flickr Copper plating the hull by Tim Doman, on Flickr Copper plating the hull by Tim Doman, on Flickr Ok thats it for now but a big thank you to all you guys for your input and for looking. P.S I am still looking into any entrance port issues and i will come back to this later in the build as if there is any alterations to be made,they can be done later when fitting the canopy and steps. Again,thanks all for looking. Tim
  3. George,Daniel and Bob and to all that have liked the post's i have made i say thanks guys. Daniel You sure know how to get me at it don't you lol Here we go The entrance port I have checked both McKay and McGowan and i did a re scale from McKay's plan drawings that are 1/192 and it seems the port is the correct size provided i got my math right. The port is 9 mm wide on the model and 4 to 5 mm on the plan depending on if you include the width of the printed lines and is as far as i can tell near as damn it right. But,,,, The Entrance Port has changed over the years and i think this is a important thing to note. It seems that at one time or another there was a external frame added that was not there before. On some pic's you can see the yellow of the ship inside the canopy walls (at left side pic 1) but later there was a frame added (see pics 2/3) I think i may add this frame to aid in the tidy up of my Entrance Port and to add just a little more detail and eye candy if nothing else. Did it look like this in 1805? Well i would bet my Dog it did not I would even say that in 1805 the ship did not have a entrance port and if it did it would not have been like we see today but this can be said for almost everything you now look at regarding Victory. I would like someone to correct or confirm my port measurements if possible just to make sure i am at least in the ball park with my sizes,that would be cool. Thanks Daniel for pointing this out to me sir Now,,,,what do you think regarding the Prince of Wales Feather's? should i leave them alone or scratch build a Crown or a shield or other that MAY have been there,high up on the stern? 765-F by Tim Doman, on Flickr 2008_07_22_alex_cap_g by Tim Doman, on Flickr 2008_08_20_victory_donal_oneill_d by Tim Doman, on Flickr Temp test fit of canopy and size of doorway. by Tim Doman, on Flickr please note. Pics are for reference only and will be removed if needed. Anyway that's it for now,i am going back to start some copper tiles on the hull,,,,,or the dog if it gets in the way Back soon and thanks again all for looking. Tim
  4. Hi all Just a fast update I have completed lining the gun ports and i have painted the first side of the hull. Painting hull by T m Doman, on Flickr Hull painting bow by Tim Doman, on Flickr DSC_0380 by Tim Doman, on Flickr I will tidy up the lines later and i may alter them if needed but this will do for now. Thanks for looking guys Tim
  5. Hi all Thanks for looking and thanks for the likes. Bob I agree,when tidy things change a lot and i never tidy until i am done completely with a section of the build because i do sometimes go back and change things. Ok Update and a warning of a long post and pic heavy. I have lined one side of the ships Gun Ports as follows First i made some tools and jigs for the linings out of scrap wood. Hull painting and gun port prep by mdkboggle, on Flickr Next i cut a template of the gun ports out of card using the plan for the size and shape and stuck this to a scrap plank as shown so the ports could be checked for shape and size before lining. Hull painting and gun port prep by mdkboggle, on Flickr Then i cut up 2 x 2 mm balsa wood to line the inner part of the port to form a ledge,this gives the final linings a little more to glue to. Hull painting and gun port prep by mdkboggle, on Flickr Using the tool i placed the balsa in the port as shown Hull painting and gun port prep by mdkboggle, on Flickr So i ended up with this Hull painting and gun port prep by mdkboggle, on Flickr Next i painted the 6mm walnut red ochre and when dry i then cut this into the sizes needed for the top/bottom/sides of the ports and using another tool i made of the correct size to hold the lining i placed the liner in the port as shown. Remember to set the lining 1mm back from the second planking or your gun port hinges will not fit later. Placing the linings by mdkboggle, on Flickr I found the best way to do the job was to follow the instructions and place the sides and then the top and bottom. Working till the job is complete. Gun ports lined. by mdkboggle, on Flickr Gun ports done by mdkboggle, on Flickr Because the linings were painted before fitting we get a good clean edge between the yellow and red with only a small amount of touch up that may be needed later,probably when the lids are fitted. Finally a close up of the tools i made,,,left side is for the balsa and right side is for the walnut linings. Lining tools by mdkboggle, on Flickr Ok that's it for now. i hope this helps others but remember i am new at this and i am sure there are better ways of getting this job done. Thanks for looking and back soon. Tim
  6. Hi all I have completed the wales,woop woop. Using a micrometer i measured the position of the wales in relation to the top of the gun ports all along the side of the ship. This formed a line i could follow,rather like dot to dot and this worked fine until i got to the lower wale where it curves around the bow. I first set the planks so they formed a relatively level line round the bow and then realised this was not right at all because the planks wanted to bow outward at the bottom of the plank,leaving a gap. So i then had to strip the front part of the wale back,cutting it just in front of the first lower gun port. I then joined new planking to old and went back round the bow,this time letting each plank take its natural route meaning it curved up toward the deck (see pics) This worked out fine and now i am happy with it although i do feel i could and should have done this job better. I then re cut any planking away from the gun ports and then used a little filler in places just to tidy up and then sanded the hull again but not so much as to make all the planking flat as is seen on Victory today. I have now sealed the hull ready for painting but before i do that i may line all the other gun ports. Well that's about it for now,all that's left is for me to go and strip the glue off my fingers and grab myself a Coffee Ok,thanks for looking guys. Wales fitted by mdkboggle, on Flickr Wales fitted by mdkboggle, on Flickr Wales fitted by mdkboggle, on Flickr Bow wale position by mdkboggle, on Flickr
  7. Hi ya Frank Good to see you here and Thanks for your comment sir,glad you like it so far but as you know me,there is plenty i can mass up yet Yes it is a shame Bob had to let the model go but i am sure those teeth of his are biting down on another build as we speak. I have to say,building this kit is nothing like the Heller 1/100 Victory i am building (or was building till i got this kit)but i am taking some of my ideas from that build and working them into this model,ideas like the state of the finish on the ship in 1805 and some of the mods ie the prince of wales plume on the stern may go overboard yet lol,we shall see. At this time i have fitted the lower wales both sides and i am about to set about building the middle wales. Anyway,chat soon Frank and thank you all for looking and for your likes,pm's and tips on this build. Tim
  8. Hi all and thanks for looking at this build. Ok,time for a small update. I have fitted the inner bulwarks,lined the gun ports that have no lid and taken the second planking up to the bottom of the quarter deck gun ports. I have also base painted the lined gun ports and inner bulwarks as well as re sanded the hull and sealed the wood so it will not distort in any way when later painted and the copper tiles are fitted. My next step is to fit the wales and line all the other gun ports and at that point i will tidy everything up to a finished state before i move on to tiling the lower hull. DSC_0317 by mdkboggle, on Flickr DSC_0315 by mdkboggle, on Flickr DSC_0316 by mdkboggle, on Flickr ok thanks for looking guys. Tim
  9. Looks good Robert You must be pleased with it so far and now it looks like a ship sitting there. well done sir. Tim
  10. Hi David I just wanted to say that you made a great job of this kit and your victory looks fantastic. Well done sir Tim
  11. Thanks Bob for your help. After staring at the deck for hours i came to the conclusion that it was far to flat and uniform in colour and so i sanded it back and used the dye to build colour in some places more than others in order to highlight the planking. The camera makes the deck look a lot more yellow than it is here on the model. My decks will will be darker and of a light oak colour rather than the bare planking found on victory today,more of a wet look about them. Anyway,thanks for looking and back soon. DSC_0287 by mdkboggle, on Flickr
  12. Cheers bob,i thought they only made Bacon i will go and look it up. Thanks again sir. Tim
  13. thanks Robert and bob I am just glad i did not do it wrong Now i have completed the deck and after sanding with fine grade paper i then rubbed the deck down with fine wire wool ,this removes any "fluffy" bits left from using sandpaper. i then used a wood dye called English Light Oak by Culron and used a lint free cloth and just applied a little at a time,wiping from stern to bow. Looking at it now,i am over the moon,i think it looks well and yet i thought i would mess this up for sure. Take a look Dye on deck, light English oak by mdkboggle, on Flickr Dye on deck, light English oak by mdkboggle, on Flickr Dye on deck, light English oak by mdkboggle, on Flickr At this point i have not made my mind up about varnishing the decks or using a natural oil later and on this point i would like some guidance and advice. Ok back soon,stay safe all. Tim
  14. you sure are moving along at a pace robert,well done sir. Later on,will you weather the copper plate or leave it bright? Tim
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