MEDDO

You are welcome.  Its just as much fun to watch you guys build it.  Im actually making some progress on mine and should have an update soon as well.  
 
I am glad that you are enjoying it.  I really wanted to create a project for a frigate that was like no other available commercially.....as far as the amount of detail and accuracy.  
 
I was leery at first that it was too large a project to have a group like this but hopefully you guys agree it was worthwhile and fun to do.

Hello everybody, thanks for the likes and comment. Here is a little update of my work  on the stern columns.

 

 
This is so much fun, building this model. Thanks Chuck.
Matthias
 

Welcome!  Looking forward to your build log

Toni,
If you are going to buy copper wire, get spools and cut pieces to length.  FAR cheaper.  I bought four different sizes in a box which each spool being 100 feet long.  You can find all kinds of diameters and spool sizes to meet your needs.  The one that worked for me is https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Round-Assorted-24-26-28-30-Spool/dp/B07D54TM1G/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=copper+wire+spool+stl&qid=1594460184&sr=8-12    
Allan

The second ship you found looks like another sister to ours.  Same anchor, knots, deadeyes, and style in general. Who/what company made these?
 
 
The owners have agreed that they want the MAAS ship to be the model for theirs.  They say they want the masts stepped.  To that end I converted the single pole mast we have to a  plan for stepped masts (main and fore).  The concern is to get the yards positioned to fit the existing sails and a general need to transpose any other mast data to the new masts. Flag masts and top caps will be added.

Thank you for the welcomes, appreciated.
 
Robby, I've used several kit producers, Billings, OcCre, Panart, Artensena, Amati, Sergal etc and some that no longer exist that produced specialist smaller models like Cobles and Galway Hookers.
I build what I like and also build commissions too.  My last was HMS Terror [OcCre] which was a very good kit but some problem areas like the chain plates which I re-made entirely.  The client also wanted sails rigged, so I made him a new set from lawn cloth [it can be printed on using an inkjet printer] and it's also very thin so more in keeping with the scale.
 
I don't think I'll be the first Manxie here, we tend to keep under cover if possible.  What I can claim is that Euterpe [now called Star of India] was built about 100 metres from where I live. One day I'll make her as I have access to her lines from the son of her saviour.
 
Kimosubby came about from within my Club, the Manxmodelboatclub, with members deciding that Kim must be short for either Kimithy or Kimosubby - you can tell which won through, and no I don't wear a eye mask nor face mask, this Island has been without Covid for over 7 weeks now.
 
Finally, yes I will start a build log for the armed pinnace, as soon as I can find my way around this site. I haven't found any instructions yet so it's trial and error for now. I did pop a picture into my account on sign on but it seems to be in the ether somewhere for now. If you spot it, it's a 4 inch Thames barge!
 
Aye, Kim

We do have topics for "Restoration" in the scratch area.  There is one going on for an old galleon.  The easiest way to find them, is go to the Scratch Area and in the search function (upper right hand side) use the keyword "Restoration".  Before hitting the search, re-click on the word and change the settings to "this forum" and "content titles only".

Hi Glenn,
 
No sharpening. Just cut the profile and scrap. The hardest part for me was learning the angle
to hold the scraper and the amount of pressure. I also found that going with the grain works better.
I also got the dullcoat today, just sprayed them I think they look good.
I do have weathering powders but I don't think they would right for this. 
 

 

As you can see I've applied the Old Masters Fruitwood Gel Stain to the stern decorations. I applied
the stain with a soft paint brush, let it sit for a couple of minutes and then used a clean dry brush to
even out and wipe off the excess stain. I left the drops undone so you can see the difference.
 

 
Here is one figure tacked temporarily in place to see how it looks and I'm happy with it.
One question though would be after staining the pieces should they be sealed with something or leave them as is?
 

Post 29: Seats of Ease, Knees etc
 
There are three parts to the seats of ease, top, side and front.  There are some tricky angles involved.. I had taken an overhead photograph of my hull and I used this to obtain the profile of the top:
 
.One has to be careful about using such photos.  Most zoom lenses and phones suffer from barrel distortion.  So if you photograph the end of your room for example the walls will bow outward.  Clearly, this makes taking a profile from  such photographs inaccurate.  I used a prime lens which suffers less from distortion and then Photoshop knows which lens you used and can correct for any distortion remaining. Anyway I did make a card template first but the profile was so close that I went straight to the 1/32  timber.  For the sides I used the profile from the transom frame Y and this was accurate enough as well.  For the ends I first made a long piece extending from port to starboard matching the deck profile and making sure it was the same height on each side.  Then I cut the required section next to the bulwark on each side.

 
After assembly I checked that the heights were equal using my digital protractor.  One of the advantages of these is that the hull does not need to be exactly level.  I know my gunwales are level so I first placed the level between the gunwales and zeroed the device then bridging across the seats I could check the angle

 
In fact the angle flicked between zero and 0.05.  So even in the higher angle the difference in height works out to be only 0.06 mm
 
The curve of the transom knees was obtained from the plan and the approximate angle from my overhead photo but the biggest challenge was shaping them to fit the angle of the internal transom frames.  This was trial and error and I found that a had to do a bit of reshaping of the transom frames themselves.  obviously this should have been done earlier but I did not predict the problem until I tried to fit the knees.  so here is the inboard of the stern showing those features.

The horse for the boom sheet was fashioned from 1.2 mm wire and washers were made from light card as  suggested by Chuck.  The cleats are from siren and have been left natural at this stage.  I know Chuck point out that contemporary models show them painted red.  However, any any boat I owned which had wooden cleats we found it impossible to keep any protective coating, paint or varnish on thembecause of the friction from the rope.  Modern synthetic rope is not so bad but hemp is like sandpaper.  I can always decide to paint them later.
 
John
 
 
 

I forgot to mention – chuck supplies 14 window frames of various angles from which you can select the best 6 to suit your QG. In the photos above I have just taken the first three – just see what they look like. Here's a start on the other side.

Good morning everyone from a (finally) sunny Cornwall.
 
First, it has been two months since Bob G asked me to explain a little more where I had gone wrong with the stern counter. Please accept my apologies, Bob, for the delay in responding.
 
This is how I see it. First, the stern counter needs to be sanded to the correct shape. Looking at the incoming planking there is quite a pronounced L shape as the sides of the how turn underneath the stern counter. Chuck's post at #337 is the one to look at. Stuntflyer Mike's post at #133 is another one to study. Of the more recent posts Guillermo Madico's stern counter looks good (post #41) though oddly he has left out the supporting block screwed to the underside of the stern frame's. Scubby J at #93 shows the roles those supporting blocks play in providing something to glue the incoming planking to.
 
I sanded to the wrong shape. I sanded to a gentle curve rather than pronounced L. That's the first thing I got wrong.
 
Secondly, those supporting blocks need to be sanded to allow the incoming planks butt up to the lower counter planking with the edges of each nicely bevelled. I didn't sand away sufficient of the supporting blocks so that my incoming planking "overthrew" the lower counter planking. When the incoming planking was sanding down it left gaps – see #43 above. Fortunately, I had access to the planking from the other side and was able to fill the area with glue and then filler so it is all perfectly sound albeit unsightly.
 
There is, as Chuck has said, fancy profile to go along the junction so I hope to be able to hide some of the error, at least.
 
Finally, the incoming planks turn quite sharply upwards in the last insurer so before they meet the lower counter planking – look at Scrubby J's #93 and you will see what I mean. That sharp upward turn really needs to be preformed with heat. Aside from turning up quite sharply the planks also need to be tapered, edge bent and twisted along the length. They are tricky. I did the tapering, edge bending and twisting first so that I had a pretty well fitting plank up to the point where it needed to be turned up quite sharply. I then tried to form the upward turn by holding the plank with pliers in the heat of a room blow heater. The cherry goes quite plastic once it reaches a certain temperature and it will take and hold bend quite well. The difficulty, as I found it, was controlling exactly where the bend formed. I think I would doing it again I put the bending fairly early stage of making the planking question and then, but only then, fettle the edge bending, tapering and bevelling.
 
So, like I suspect most of these things, there is a combination of errors in play. I hope I will do better next time?
 
On a much happier note, and after a journey of several thousand miles involving three transatlantic crossing is (New York – London / London – Miami and Miami – London) and the best part of a month my chapter 3 parts finally arrived – though not before I got clobbered for import duty. Winchelsea is only my third build (after Amati's Lady Nelson and AL's Bounty ) so I do not speak from a wealth of experience but the laser cutting quality of the chapter 3 parts (as with the earlier parts) is far, far better than anything I have seen before.
 
I have started work on the QGs. I doubt if I have the angle of the transom correct. I certainly think I have set the stern windows to low in the frame's. I doubt if my hull planking follows the plans – unfortunately, all the balsa wood and body filler I added (see above) obscured Chuck's guidelines so I just eyeballed the run. All in all I am expecting to have to make a few compromises but here are some pictures showing the present state of play. The qg frames are just rested in place as our the frames in the great cabin.

After completing the drop plank and the first two rows of planks below the wales (where the drop plank counts as two at the bow), plus installing more than one or two fashion pieces I’ve now completed the wales. I painted them using Admiralty Paints Ironwork Black, which oddly enough is duller (really more flat) than the Dull Black I normally use.
 

 
I was really tempted to also paint the counter but decided to wait until I’d at least had a dry-fitting with the square tuck I’ll somehow create after getting the next 8 rows of planks on both sides.
 

 
I didn’t take any photos of installing the wales, but it’s as straight forward as on any model - I did try extra hard on keeping neat paint lines. Me and Tamiya tape did ok with that, with some effort. It’s worth it to take the time getting the tape right, its either that or scrape, sand, and clean up where you didn’t. If you’re not familiar with Tamiya tape, get some. There is nothing better, blue painter’s tape isn’t even close, in getting a close tight seal for painting - for those of us like me who lack the skill to free-hand. Though I am pretty handy with an 18/0 brush to do touchup.
 

 
I also followed Chuck’s instruction to thin out the wales at the bow. I cut and dry-fitted both top and bottom planks then held them side by side on a work board and tapered them down to near saxophone reed thickness. In my case they actually did fit into the rabbit. They do look so much better this way.
 

 
Since I’ll be working upside down it was time for a new stand, really an old stand modified. I go for function over form with these things so its nothing fancy, just a cut-down of a stand made for my Vanguard with some cross blocks added for stability. The fun part is I used my new mill for the very first time - for the very easy job of adding a slot down the center of the cross blocks. So now I'm a miller, sorta.
 

 

 
I added a fresh coat of poly across what is now the completed top third of the hull. Now it’s time mark the two belts with artist tape, get out the tick strips and line the hull as I start planking the 8 rows of planks that make up the top belt.  Not that anything has been fast, but this next phase will be slow going to get each plank right - and as a bonus I also get to rip more planks, so Yay!
 

Nice progress!
 
I have thought this on numerous occasions 😁

Planking the hull.        
 
Above the Wales the planking is pretty straight forward.    In hindsight:  I wish I took more care in sizing the plank lengths that ran between the gun ports.   A lot of cleanup was necessary to get it into a somewhat presentable form.   
 
Its below the Wales that require a bit more planning, bending in multiple dimensions, and shaping.     I followed Chuck Passaro's method of spiling which has been well documented on the NRG site.   You need to line the hull and this was done by creating tick strips for each section and marking the plank locations with a very sharp pencil.    I also used artist tape to form the sectors of planking from bow to stern.    As Chuck describes in the Cheerful documentation, the planks will narrow down as they approach the bow.   You will need to make a drop plank as well in this area.    At the stern they can widen a bit.   
 
My plank bending set up which I learned from Chuck:
 
This is a small jig that is the same thickness as your planks and has a built in curve to provide a bending form.    

 
 

 
To help the bending process I use a small cup of water to add some moisture to the plank and a small travel iron that provides the heat.   The clamps are used to help define the bend required.

 
Its a pretty simple method that is extremely effective in my opinion.   

 

 

I've had plenty of free time the past week and I was able to complete the port qgalleries roof 
and the starboard side frieze, moldings and qgallaries roof.
 

 

 

 

 
Next I'll start fitting the figures and stern moldings etc. One decision I need to
make is what color to go with for the resin cast figures and moldings. I'm undecided
if I'll stick with the fruitwood gel stain Chuck used or go with something a bit darker.
I do like the fruitwood color and think the contrast may look real good.
The hard part is there is little extra material to test on. I'll post some ideas soon.

Watching you use string will be a great learning experience and I look forward to your updates. Travel safe! 

Managed to get back to my Winnie, I decided that I really want to learn how to line off the lower hull entirely to ensure my planking runs are good so I have taken Druxeys advice and will line off EVERY single planking run with black string so as to see how good I can do this, As Im back travelling for work all the time now this could take me a few weeks before I show any progress and Im still plugging away on Pegasus upper deck framing.
 
ben

Post 28: Timberheads
Once again Chuck describes how to make these.  I made them in pairs (oort and starboard) so that they matched as closely as possible.  I measured the angle with my digital protractor:

This got me started but in the end I eyeballed it.  It is surprising how a very small difference in angle is noticeable.

You will also notice that I have installed the scuppers. Here rather than just use a hole as indicated on the plans I used rivets to fill the holes .  These are used on electronic circuit boards and have an internal diameter of 1 mm and fit into a 1.6 mm hole. I blackened them first of course.
 

 

cornhusker1956
 
Interesting about your thought of planking from the inside out.  I had thought about that, but since the last few rows get smaller and smaller I always thought it would look better if the smaller planks were on the inside.   But I have not seen that, so I can not say I really have a valid thought.   I will take a look at your Bluenose and Pride of Baltimore logs to see what inside out planking looks like.   
 
I also used planked the first row of the deck in mahogany (or what amati calls mahogany strips).  I had a few strips left over from the 2nd planking.    I did not have enough mahogany strips for that and a middle strip.   I still wanted a dark strip down the middle, so I had some leftover walnut from a previous ship (king of the mississippi) so I used that down the middle.   Not quite the same color, but I like it.   You will see some pictures later on in this post.
 
Anyway,,, back to the Endeavour...  At this time I figured it was time to do the mast and boom.    With the mast nothing really exciting.   Only thing of note was that the instructions call for .5mm holes to hold the eyelets.   I do not have a calibrator to verify so my bits may be off, but my .5mm, .55mm, and .6mm bits were too small for the eyelets.   I found I had to use a .65mm bit for all the eyelets holes.   Either that of my bits have gotten mixed up and I really was drilling a .5mm hole.    Anyway there are a ton of eyelet holes to drill.   I have a small electric drill so the task was not that bad, but I really do not recommend you attempt this many holes if you only have a pin vise....  You will go crazy.    
 

The Endeavour has a spinnaker pole, but no fitting on the mast to attach it.   Not a big deal, but I added an eyelet on the front of the mast that show where the spinnaker pole would attach to the mast.  You can barely see the eyelet on the above picture, so it is blown up below.   

 
Here is the aft side of the mast.   Not here I decided to not have the groove go the entire length of the mast.  In a real boat the slot of the sail is just that,,, a slot for the sail.  See the slot start a little below the goose neck on the bottom of the mast and slot stop short of the top.   Not a big deal, but just looked better to me
 

 
In regards to the boom, I did a little more customization.   In my case I do not plan to put the sails on the boat.  To me the rigging looks great all by itself and the sails detract from it.   Since no sails, I decided not to put the long rod along the boom that he sail would attach to.   Instead I just lined the boom with more eyelets similar to the mast.   Many will not like that, but to me it just looks better than the long bar is you are not going to put up the sails.
 
One note,,,, if you plan to put eyelets on the boom, you will have to acquire some more eyelets.  There are not enough extra eyelets included with the kit to allow for eyelets on the boom...
 

 
Nothing new here other than a paint job
 

 
On to the spinnaker pole.   I could not find any written documentation on the spinnaker pole.   However if you look at the drawing showing the mast and boom, there is also a picture of the spinnaker pole.   I guess you just have to know to build it.   Nothing to it,,, just have to put an eyelet at each end of the spinnaker pole and glue on the fitting that attache it to the deck.    I strongly suggest a vice and an electric drill.  Even though the .65mm bit is small, the spinnaker pole is not much larger.   It takes a steady hand to drill the holes at both ends of the pole.  I know I could not do it what a pin vise.
 
 
 

 
On to the decking....  Since the hull will be mahogany the first few planks around the deck probably should be mahogany.  I a few strips left over from the 2nd planking.  Doubling them up (each is .5mm thick) you end of with a 1mm thick plank.   For the center plank, I did not have enough mahogany left over, so I choose some walnut from a previous ship.   The color does not match, but after a light stain they will be pretty close - or at least that is what I hope.  🙂
 
Only big issue is you will have to create a custom curved stern planking section.   My stern piece is not museum quality, but for a beginner I think it turned out OK.
 
As for the deck planking,  I pondered for a long time as to what was the best deck layout but I don't think I found it.    In my case I cut the planks in 10mm sections and staggered them.   Originally i thought this would be a good look, but now I am not so sure.    It results in a lot of cuts (10mm) and I am not sure I is any better (may actually be worse) than if I has used 20mm sections or maybe mostly full planks.   Anyway, this is what 10mm planks sections look like.   I also used the standard pencil lead on the plank edges technique to simulate the caulking between the planks.
 
 
Below pictures show my progress to date.   
 

 

On to the deck holes for the various fittings.   One could cut out the deck layout from the plans, but if you want to save the plans, it is best to make a copy of them to cut out.   In my copier I had to copy each half of the boat, cut them out, tape them together, and then tape them to the hull.    This is good for most of the 1.5mm holes, but not so good for the ones marked in red below.   Problem with the "red" ones are that they are either too close to the edge of the hull or too close to the center line.   Any variation between the paper copy and the actual hull (and there will be) will not look good when the paper is removed.   For the holes on the edge, temporarily lift up the paper and mark the spot with a pencil.   Later when the paper is removed you can drill those holes.
 
As for the 1.5mm holes around the mast, you can more or less mark them with a ruler off the mast and drill them.   The exact location of these holes is not as important as getting them to line up with the edge of the boat or mast.   All the other 1.5mm holes can be drilled off the paper template without issue.
 

 
Having said that, in the spirit of "do as I say and not as I do", I would not recommend drilling these edge holes at this time.   For some reason later on in the build the instructions call to install tow rails on both sides of the hull.  To me these toe rails should be installed now - before you drill the deck holes.   
I drilled the holes before the toe rails, and as you can see below, I have some patching and re-drilling in my future.   I suppose if you are very careful with your hole locations you can drill the holes before the toe rail, but I wish I had not.
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

https://modelshipworld.com/tags/beagle/
 
The TAG system makes finding build logs super easy.

Welcome to Model Ship World Jandrus.  I am glad that you have a girlfriend that encouraged you to work with wood.  You will have her support as well as the members on MSW when you start your OcCre kit of the Beagle.

Welcome to the Forum!  You’ll find plenty of helpful people here. Please start a blog blog when you can
 
One issue with the search is you will find all posts which mention Beagle in them.  To make it easier to find build logs you can use the tags.
 
Once you find a particular build log you can click on the tag at the top of the build named Beagle and it will bring up every build log we have for the ship without all the other topics which may have mentioned it.