Martin W

Thank you Bob and Richard, for me researching a project is a major part of the pleasure of a build.
 
@ Steven, Thanks for your input. - Re the sails, I am rather reluctant to ditch the expensive but beautifully made sails provided for the kit. The material used is so fine, and the stitching so neat, the best I’ve seen for  sail material @1:64 scale.
 
It is a slight disappointment that the stitching stands out quite so much, but the permanent marker route seems to work.
Perhaps Chris could discuss the stitching thread with his supplier, given that these sails are traditionally coloured, rather than left undyed.
 
I don’t think the Skipper will make the final cut on the model, but I do find such figures useful for scale purposes. He’s a chopped about plastic figure built up using modelling paste.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Post 24


 
A little backtracking.


 
I have been having another look at the ships wheel.

3435
It is of the same dimensions as the kit provided wheel but whilst looking at a photo of a figure standing next to the wheel on Reaper I have come to the conclusion that it is somewhat overscale.

 
I came across a description of the wheel dimensions as relating to ‘True Vine’, another 70’ Fifie of 1905.


 
A wooden wheel, 20” outside diameter., with a 2” rim, 6” boss, 2½” thick, has six spokes 4” by 1”, and is connected by a worm gear.



5897(2)
I did a scale mock-up in card to these dimensions, and this is the result, quite a difference.


 
The scale wheel measures 14mm o/a diameter including the spokes.


 
Amati do a 14mm wheel which I ordered as a suitable replacement.

 

5971(2)
A much better scale fit I think.

 

5978(2)
 
I have also created a Skipper for my Fifie.


5990(2)
Willie Buchan is a little rough around the edges, but he is a good 1:64 scale to help me judge relative size.


5991

5995

5994
 
A re-think on ring bolts

Having gone to some length to make ring bolts for the hatch boards, I’m now undecided whether I like the look, or indeed if they are an authentic fitting.


 
I’m beginning to think from looking at mostly unclear old photo’s, that the boards didn’t have such fittings.

 

3492
This is re-enforced by this finely detailed model of a Zulu.

The cover boards as seen both on the hatch and stacked up behind the coamings are free of such fittings.


5984
I remade the boards from Pearwood sheet and they suit my eye better.

 
 

6007(2)
 
B.E.


 
09/07/2020



 

Thanks Richard,
That's what I did, the stitch lines don't show up in reality as much as on the photo's, but I'll  go over them again with the permanent marker before use. Used carefully I didn't get any bleed onto the sails.
I can't answer the photo size question, but for me you can't beat a nice large photo.🙂
 
The Isabella Fortuna is a smaller Fifie, but a beautiful boat.
Note the white painted mast tops, yard tips, and blocks. This is an old tradition, not a modern decorative effect, made them easier to see in the dark.
 
I will probably use that scheme on my build, but not sure about painting the blocks white.
 
B.E.
 
 

Hi B.E.
 
I had found this website a few days ago .... https://www.stbfportsoy.org/boats/

I can understand the need for the restorers to seek sponsorship, but I imagine the fishermen at the start of the last century wouldn't have had whisky ads on their sails, but you never know!
 
The pics on the website tend to show a browner colour (as you note) to the sails, so I ordered Rit dye for when I get round to working on the Fifie.

 
Your sails look great, as does the boat.
 
I can't really think of a proper way to 'brown' the white stitching ...but maybe a running a black or brown indelible marker pen down the stitching would somewhat push it into the background?
 
Regards,
 
Richard
 
PS: Does anyone know if it is possible to reduce the size of images in my posts using the supplied webpage editor? Or do I need to use PS/Paint.net etc to do that before posting?
 
 
 

Perhaps the sewing thread is polyester or nylon, which won't take dyes. It's also a bit difficult to get linen thread to take up dye. Cotton is much better for this. 

Post 23


 
Colouring the sails


 
This is the description as given in the Sailing Drifter book.


 
Sails were ‘barked’ a rich, dark brown, almost black colour. They were seldom tanned the warm Red of the English drifters.

 

This is the sort of look I was after.


 
To replicate this effect, I am using Rit brand (cocoa brown) dye powder, as mentioned and used by James in his ‘Zulu’ log.


 
One issue that arose for me, new to this process, is that the quantities given relate to articles of clothing, not two smallish cotton sails so the question of proportions comes to mind.

 
The recipe’ and procedure I used was as follows.


 
Into a plastic bowl I poured 4 pints of hot water.


 
4 teaspoons of dye powder (virtually the whole packet) were dissolved in a 1pint jug of near boiling water from the kettle.


 
This was added to the bowl followed by a sprinkling of salt.

The mixture was well stirred, and the sails added.


 
I stirred them around for approx 20 minutes which gave me the depth of colour I thought was ok.


 
The sails were then rinsed in a bowl of cool water three times, until the water ran all but clear.


 
They were then hand washed in warm water with a mild detergent added, rinsed and put to dry flat on an old towel.

 

5916(2)
The completed sails set out to dry, a slightly lighter hue should ensue.

 

5922(2)
I think this is as close as I will get to the shade I was after, so I can put them aside now until needed.


 
For some reason the sail stitching and bolt ropes remained stubbornly white.

 I used a fine point waterproof marker to colour these and take the starkness out of the white.


 
An interesting snippet I came across during my subject reading:


Early in the 20thc two men, each sewing for a 9-hour day completed a Foresail in a week, a Mizzen in 4 days, 2 jibs in 6days.

Finished price – Foresail £30, Mizzen £15, Large Jib £10.


 
B.E.


 
06/07/20

Thanks Dave,  I think an unintended consequence of the new system is that  as more time is spent  in our current build era, the other eras tend to get overlooked, and unless I spot something in the latest posts section that catches my eye, things are missed. Under the old system I tended to see more as I scrolled down the build section looking to find my build to update.
One of the objectives of the new system was apparently to reduce the incidence of the same old builds hogging the limelight. Well I'm now on a guilt trip  as my current build seems to be nearly always towards the top of the list, simply because I am progressing quite quickly, and the pond I'm in is so much smaller.🤔
 
On with the build, and I may I request that folks don't turn my log into a pro's and cons discussion forum on the new set-up.
 
Post 22


 
Looking at the masts and booms


 
The Foremast on these large Fifie’s seem almost over-scale but are very stout timbers, necessary to withstand the pressure from the enormous lug sails carried.

 

The kit mast represents a height above deck of 52’6” with a 15” square section at the deck, and 9”ø at the masthead.


 
This is fairly modest by comparison with recorded dimensions given by Edgar March.


 
The True Vine also a 70 ft Fifie had a foremast with a 22” square section at the deck, tapering to 9”. This would equate to 8.75mm at 1:64 scale, something that would not fit on the ‘Lady Eleanor’


 
Time to get the lathe out.


5848
Walnut square section (6mm) is provided for the mast. Walnut is a good choice I think, as the masts do seem to have been of a dark hue, apart perhaps from a white section to the Mast head.


 
To make the mast I roughly take off the corners above the square section using a micro plane and a ‘V’ jig.

 

5847
I then use the lathe to create the taper.

I use a gauge at marked points along the length to check progress.


 
The Mizen mast more closely follows the given dimensions of the True Vine (15” at deck, tapered to 9” at masthead.)

6mm Walnut dowel is provided.


 
The Mizen boom is a length of 3mm Walnut dowel slightly tapered. This looks a little thin to my eye by comparison with the boom on Reaper. Altho’ I have given lengths of this boom I have not found details of relative diameters as yet.

 

5853
The Mizen mast was set with a forward tilt, and wooden wedges were used to trim the angle of the Foremast to suit the preference of the Skipper. I intend to display my Fifie with the mast vertical. This seems a common arrangement as seen in a large number of the old photo’s I have looked at.

 

5850(2)
 
The yards need only a little adjustment to the 3mm dowel and are shaped by hand.



5852(2)
What a pleasure it is to only deal with a simple lug rigged two master, no tops, crosstrees, or mast caps to consider.

 

5900
The masts are a snug fit and I won’t need to glue them in.

A wedge aft of the mast will be required to hold it firmly against the baulk. (not necessary if you prefer some rake aft)

 

5904(2)
The kit provides brass etched ‘mast rings’  which perform two purposes, the first to gauge the mast taper at the mast heads, and the second where one of the six eyes that form the ring are the attachment point for the Burton stays of the masts.


 
A hole is also drilled thro’ the mastheads to take the yard halyards.


I feel a slight enhancement coming on to this arrangement.


 
I now need to familiarise myself with the rigging set up and attachment points before I proceed further.


 

 
B.E.


 
05/07/20

 
 

Good evening Maurice,very nice mods you've made to improve your model. Super job. Just catching up as I'd lost your build due to this new system,just my
opinion but I think the old system was better,now I have to jump from century to century to find the builds I follow. C'est la vie.
 
Kind regards,
 
Dave 

I was pondering with Mrs W the other day about how to dye the sails, I've no experience of dyeing anything, except perhaps standing rigging in wood dye.
I have the Rit stuff which reckons one packet dyes two large tee shirts, but to double the dye for a deeper colour.
How this equates to two small sails I've no idea. I guess it's a case of suck it and see.
I certainly won't be doing the hot cook method on Mrs W's induction hob, that could end in divorce, in fact I'll probably sub-contract the job to her and keep well away from the whole process.
 
My Scottish reference work says that  north of the border a deep brown colour was the tradition, whereas the English preferred a reddish, dare I say even pink hue, as favoured by James.😉
 
Movin' on...
 
B.E.
 
 
 

Cheers Guys,


 
Thanks Bob, and Michael, I’m pleased you like what you see.


 
@ Glenn

Thanks BE, that makes sense. I wasn’t thinking like a fisherman 😊


 
It’s nowt to do with me Glenn, a few weeks ago I’d never heard of a Fifie, but I’ve done a load of speed reading.😉


 
@ Richard – ask away no problem. To some extent it depends on the tightness of the bend, but I tend to use cold water for a few minutes only, and then use a hair dryer on max heat to fix the shape I  formed.


 
I don’t think Chuck even bothers with water, just bends by degrees and uses heat alone to fix the shape.


 
Regards,


 
B.E.

Wow Guys, a lot of questions.
 
 
Glenn said
Nice work on adding the nets. The location of the chimneys seems peculiar, seems like all the smoke would blow right in the helmsman’s face. 
 
I don’t think it would be an issue Glenn, the Capstan boiler and galley were not in use during the sailing of the boat. The capstan was used to set the large fore lug and hauling in the nets, when the boat was in drifting mode. The Galley would only be used once the nets had been cast. The only relative rest period for the crew was during the night whilst the boat was drifting.
As I understand, once fishing began, the Foremast was lowered, the Mizen removed, and also the rudder, (I don’t know how) to prevent excessive movement.
 
Chris said
And I had (finally) my Zulu sail set order arrive today, so all that ordered sail sets for their Zulus will be receiving them within the next week, and anyone who now orders a Zulu and sail set can be shipped together.
Nice work of the Fifie, BE, I see these models as a 'blank canvas' for the more experienced, who like to stamp their own mark on the kit.
Thanks Chris, I very much look forward to building this iconic  Fishing boat
 
 
Richard Said
There is one thing that sort of bothers me with the modification you have made to the wheel. 
Where does the helmsman stand. Normally he would want to face forward, behind the wheel. The mechanism would sort of prevent this & plus he would have to stand on the thwart (further from the boat's center of gravity, a bit more unstable).
As you can see from the photo’s of the Reaper, Richard, there is not much room. The Skipper didn’t stand on the thwart he sat on it, to the starboard side. The port side was cut off by the Mizen boom. Some boats had a stool instead of a thwart.
 What did you make the nets from ?
I used a soft Tulle net fabric, in the shade Peat Brown.
It is cheap to buy, I got mine from a company called Minerva crafts, but there are a lot of online sales for this stuff.
 
Are you going to add a fish smelling perfume to the open hatch ?
I don’t think Mrs W would appreciate taking realism that far, Richard.😃
 
I've had to hold up on my Eleanor since I'm spending some unscheduled time in the hospital. As soon as I get put I'll be starting the 1st planking. Did you start in the middle for that and work towards the bow and stern and pin as you went along? Did you also soak the lime planks to get them to fit better?
When pinning the planking I always start from the bow, but before that I have dry fitted the plank having tapered and shaped it where necessary using water and heat.
 
Rusty Said
Great workshop B.E. Really enjoying your build. I'm also interested in the Lady Isabella and may have to breakout the cc.
Cheers, Rusty, I think there is a lot more detailed information on Zulu’s out there to assist a build.
 
Bob said
A chimney is easily made, from some 3mm ø aluminium tubing.
Did you solder the aluminum chimneys?
No, I just used ca to make the bond
The nets are awesome! How did you make them?
See my reply to Richard, above.
I have the Lady Isabella and would like to find out more about these Zulu fishing vessels. Do you have any good resources that you could recommend?
The good news about Zulu’s is that there is a lot of information on the net, including history, plans, excellent build photo’s, and historic photo’s.
I have used the net extensively for my research, but I do have an excellent long out of print book – Sailing Drifters by Edgar J. March. Still in print is a useful book called Inshore Craft – Basil Greenhill & Julian Mannering.
 
Doug said
I was just gifted with a set of blueprints for the Zulu Muirneag.  Plans were drawn by Harold Underhill in the 1950's.  His book "Plan-on-Frame Models" has reduced version of three of the plans.  I can't use the blueprint set so they're listed in Traders... One source of detail.
 
Underhill’s plans are still available on the net at around £10 each. In relation to the Zulu kit there are some that would be more useful than others, eg; deck layout, rigging plan etc;
 
 
B.E
 
02/07/20
 

There is one thing that sort of bothers me with the modification you have made to the wheel. 
 
Where does the helmsman stand. Normally he would want to face forward, behind the wheel. The mechanism would sort of prevent this & plus he would have to stand on the thwart (further from the boat's center of gravity, a bit more unstable).
 
What did you make the nets from ?
 
Are you going to add a fish smelling perfume to the open hatch ?
 
I've had to hold up on my Eleanor since I'm spending some unscheduled time in the hospital. As soon as I get put I'll be starting the 1st planking. Did you start in the middle for that and work towards the bow and stern and pin as you went along? Did you also soak the lime planks to get them to fit better?
 
Richard

Thank you Grant and Bob, your interest is much appreciated.
 
Post 21


 
Taking stock


 
I felt this was a good point to review progress thus far.

This is also a good point to set out the remaining deck fittings to ensure there are no unwanted surprises.


5825
I have made a couple of additions to the deck furniture, in the form of Chimneys, to service the steam capstan, and Galley stove.


 
Such pipes are shown on the plans I have seen, and Reaper also has one.

 
 A chimney is easily made, from some 3mm ø aluminium tubing. A smaller second pipe was also fashioned for the galley stove.


 
Because of my modifications to the steering I had to reposition the Mizen boom stop slightly.  

5823
The cover boards for the Fish Hatch have been fitted with ring bolts in preference to the provided items, and only a portion of the cover boards are in place.




5839
The hatch is left partly open to reveal the nets that would usually be kept in that area.

 

5836
The nets were cast over the Starboard side and there should be a net roller running along the hatch coaming to assist the process.

I don’t have sufficient detail of the arrangement to fit one yet, but I am looking.


 
Such boats also carried seven 22’ sweeps stowed on the Foredeck and shipped into crutches socketed into the Timberheads.

I don’t know if I will represent these at present.



5830(2)

5818(2)
 

5819
 

5822
 

5826
 

5829
 
Since I have started researching fishing boats I have been amazed at the sheer hard manual work, hazardous conditions, and danger involved in working these boats. The seamanship required to work the lugger rigs seems extraordinary given the harsh conditions they had to work in.


 
It is hard to believe that contained within the hatch were some 60/70 nets, 60 yards long, and when strung together produced a drift extending some 3300 yards from the boat.


 
 The invention of the steam capstan must have been a very welcome addition to aid the exhausting process of hauling in the nets.


 
 
So much am I enjoying this build, I couldn’t resist doing a follow up of the Zulu.


5843
 Ordered yesterday, arrived this morning; great service Chris.👍


 
Shame to waste all the research I have done, and they will make a fine pair, but I won’t start the Zulu until the Fifie is completed.


 
 
B.E.

01/07/20

 
 
 

Thank you Rusty and Tim.👍
 
Post 20
 
 
Completing the tiller attachment.
 
 
 
The final part is the attachment of tiller and worm drive.
 
 
I have been hampered in my efforts by the lack of a detailed plan and I have had to rely on a visual interpretation from photo’s of the restored Fifie Reaper, and indistinct drawings and plan of the Fifie True Vine.
 

 
Reaper
 
What I am sure about is that these late 19th/early 20th century large Fifie’s did have the wheel close to the stern with some sort of mechanical attachment to work the rudder.
 
 
 
 
It would be reasonable to run a shaft from the wheel to the stern post, covered by a narrow longitudinal box with a rod or stiff wire from the rudder, entering the box on the aft starboard side.

True Vine Plan
This is as much detail as provided on the True Vine plan. There is also a small drawing of a ‘boxed’ worm drive with dimensions in the book Sailing Drifters by Edgar J. March.
 

5798(2)
The rod is 0.9mm ø micro brass tubing with a couple of etched brass eyebolts (PE2) from the kit inserted in the ends.
 

5800(2)
The connecting ‘Bolts’ are formed from brass wire which hold the set up together.
 

5812(2)
My interpretation is based on the Reaper set up.
 
 
 
If further information comes to light I can make further modifications but for the present I am content to leave it at this point.
 
 
 
B.E.
30/06/2020
 
 
 
 

Post 19


 
The Rudder.


 
Chris has created a simplified arrangement that takes out all the fiddliness usually associated with fitting a rudder.


5720
This has tenons on the rudder that slot into mortices on the stern post and hold the rudder in the correct position.

 

Syren mini kit.
 
I decided to fit a slightly more mobile set up using Chuck’s  mini pintles and gudgeons kit.

 

5722
The gudgeons are shaped to suit and fitted to the stern post. I use a length of wire to align the holes for the pintles.

 

5725
 
First trial fit; pins have been inserted into the rudder to represent the pintles.


With the rudder set I can now follow through with the paint lines.

 

5749
I decided to re-paint the lower hull Vallejo Matt Red, Mrs W said she preferred it, and that tipped the balance. On reflection I do think it suits the Pearwood contrast better.

 

5752
At this point I can trial fit the tiller iron on the rudder and the rod connection between rudder and worm drive.


 
The finished version will hopefully be a little more detailed than a length of bent wire.

 

5783
One of the things I like about Chuck’s little rudder fittings kit are the boxwood and fibre straps.


 
So much less fiddly than messing about with brass strip and looks good for scale.


 
I represent the bolt heads with blobs of pva.



5791(2)
The tiller arm now blackened is glued into place on the rudder.

 

5777(2)

5789(2)
There is some remedial cosmetic stuff to do following my modifications, but I’m fairly satisfied with progress to date.


 

 
B.E.


 
29/06/20

 

Post 18


 
The Capstan


 
 Elliott and Garrood steam capstans had been used on Fifie’s and similar since 1885, and one is provided in the kit.


 
This is the most prominent and striking fitting on the deck, a real eye catcher, and beautifully presented by Chris.

A combination of laser cut wooden parts and brass etch, which makes up into a fine little model.


 
My most difficult decision; what colour scheme to use.


5730
The suggested scheme of red and green reminded me fondly of my old lawnmower resplendent with green casing and red cylinder blades, so I opted to go with that.


 
I am using Humbrol enamel paint, Matt 80 (Green) and Vallejo Matt Red.


Most time-consuming part is painting the whelps of the capstan. These eight fine etched parts required painting before assembly.


 
The manual suggests that the drums be attached to the whelps without glue when assembling.


 
I found that without glue the whelps had a tendency to fall out during the alignment so I resorted to a spot of ca to hold the whelps in one drum whilst I fiddled to align the other.


 
The box atop the capstan fits over the end of the central spindle that runs thro’ the capstan body, (aka 3mm walnut dowel)

 

5729
A nicely turned brass warping drum is secured to the side of the box.


 
I drilled mine to take a pin to secure it to the box and gave it a chemically blackened colour.



5732
Note:-  there are two small holes in the side plates,  I’m not sure what they are for, but they are not for securing the warp drum.

 
 

5731
The central spindle of the capstan is in reality a steam pipe.
 

5736
When fitting the small hand wheel atop the box I found it best to put a spot of ca on the connecting pipe and press it down on the wheel.


 
 
B.E.


 
28/06/2020

 
 

Post 17


 
Modifying the steering.


 
The first thing to consider is the wheel and the worm drive.


 
I’m not using the provided wheel but another of the same dimensions.

For the worm drive and fittings, I obtained a length of M1.4mm threaded brass rod with associated nuts, Hex and open.

5641(2)

I.4mm ø looks about right and importantly is a good fit for the centre of the wheel.

The brass will be chemically blackened before fitting.


 
Before I proceed too far a bit of de-construction is required.




5644

Replacing the deck planks where the holes for the wheel  standards were cut. Not a great issue and quickly done.

 

5648

Once scraped they should blend in just fine.


At this point I also put together the Companionway cover as this has a bearing for positioning the relocated wheel.



I did make a minor modification to this altering the sliding canopy arrangement and using a proper ring bolt for the door handle.



5670(2)

Next up I had to fabricate a thwart and a knee at the stern, both important for the addition of the steering gear to follow.


 
 
An important item is the section along the worm to which the steering arm is attached.




5685(2)

I made this from styrene tubing with nuts ca’d into each end thro which the worm will pass.

One half of the provided tiller arm is slotted into this.

 

5680(2)

At the aft end of the mechanism the worm screws into a supporting nut silver soldered to a plate. These are tiny and it took several goes to make the bond.

 

5689(3)

One of the consequences of this modification is that the rudder needs to be tweaked to suit the revised steering mechanism. I added a small section to the top of the rudder and filled in the slot provided for the brass etched tiller arms.


 
The mechanism is fitted into place after blackening and painting.
Note one half of the etched tiller arms is used on the worm housing.



5711(2)

The wheel is attached, and the rod trimmed to length.

 

5710(2)

 

5707(2)


 
This is as far as I can take it at present, I need to complete the rudder before the connection can be made.


B.E.

25/06/20

 
 

It would be great if I could make it that way Yves, but don't hold your breath.😃
The engineering parts to effect a working rudder would be very small indeed, tough enough with a static rudder.
 
B.E.

Thank you, James, Derek, and Ernie, looks like Hull Red it is. 🙂
and Derek and Ernie, - I don't think you will be disappointed with this sweet little project, nice lines, beautifully made sails, and a model that can sit on a mantle shelf with ease, casing not necessary.
 
Post 16


 
What to do about steering?


 
I have struggled to accept the steering arrangement as presented in the kit, which may be a simplification as Chris notes in the manual that the kit has been developed with the beginner in mind, and some aspects have been simplified.


 
To my jaundiced old eyes the whole set-up looks more 18th century than the dawn of the 20th century, and distance from the stern to the wheel is also quite puzzling requiring whatever control cables there were to run through the cabin to reach the wheel.

My best guess is that it would represent some sort of drum drive system worked off cables, but the wheel seems a long way from the stern.


 
None of the many photo’s and plans I have scoured on vessels of this type have the wheel arrangement as seen on the kit version.


 
What is indicated is a worm screw system used on these large later period Fifie’s and Zulu’s, probably from the last years of the 19th century, and certainly from the early years of the 20th century.

 

The kit deck layout generally seems to have been taken from the still existing and restored Reaper 1902 and I have decided to modify my version of the kit to better reflect a large early 20th century Fifie.



The arrangement from the plans of the True Vine 1905 drawn by Edgar March show the wheel set just inboard of the stern set in a housing with a worm employed to operate the steering.



True Vine

Here’s a model of the ‘True Vine’ held in the NMM. A worm screw drive is in place.

 
 
I have to thank Lane Duncan, secretary of the Scottish Fishing Museum model boat club for these clear photo’s of the steering set up on Reaper.

 


It is from these photo’s that I hope to make the modifications to the kit.



The wheel position is clearly evident from the Fifie on the left of this photo dated 1904.

It looks to me like they are being towed out of harbour by a steam paddle tug.

 

This painting also shows the arrangement with a worm screw.


 

 
The tricky part now is how to represent what the photo’s show.



 
B.E

23/06/20


 
 
 

Post 15


 


Back to Hull painting

 
The lower hull has been repainted using Vallejo Hull Red a much darker almost chocolate shade.

5622(2)

The hull is masked off to do the White Boot topping.

 

5615(2)

Needed a bit of fiddling to get the lines matching and looking  good to my eye whilst fervently hoping there would be no bleed.

 

5624(2)

I am using Vallejo White for the topping. I applied several coats before removing the tape.



5628(2)

Micro bits of bleed can be cleaned up without the need to re-do the whole.



5640(2)

With the Topping completed I can now apply wipe-on-poly to the natural Pearwood.

 

5639(2)

It brings out the natural beauty of the Pearwood.



5636(2)


 
Got a slight niggle in my mind whether I like the Hull Red finish as much as the Flat red previously used, but I’ll let that percolate for a while.


 
 
I now need to get back the subject of the steering layout before I can progress further.


 

 
B.E.

22/06/20

 

Post 14
 
Back on the deck
 
As I have completed the deck it seems appropriate to fit the timberheads at this time.
 
It is a tedious job fitting all these position specific tiny sections along the bulwark but Chris has done an excellent job with the etched pearwood, which saves a lot of extra fiddling which would otherwise be the case.
 

5601(2)
Care must be taken when handling these pieces, they have an inbuilt drive to ping off into the ether never to be seen again.

5608
I am now into that part of a build I like best, fiddling with the fittings. The fish hatch is the largest fitting on the deck and one that is easy to modify slightly to provide more interest.
 
The kit provides an all-in-one representation of the boards that form the cover.

5602(2)
I prefer to have sections open to view, with a glimpse of the  nets, (detail to follow) in the fish hold.
The boards were modified to allow this.
 
The board lifting rings are represented in the kit by less than convincing eyebolts. I will replace these with ring bolts, tedious as it is.
 
The Fore Mast Housing
This fitting allows the Foremast to be lowered by means of a Tabernacle. This is hidden below decks so it’s not something I need to be concerned about representing, but the model can still be displayed with the mast in the lowered position if desired.

5607(2)
The make- up of this part is a firm fit and I didn’t need to glue the side pieces in place.
The broad thwart is also glued into place.

5598(2)
I did test fit the Fore mast timber (6mm) walnut square stuff which was a tad oversize for the space, but rather than trim the mast I sanded the inside the side pieces to get a snug fit.

5600(2)

5605(2)
This is about as far as I can go with the deck fittings at present.
 
I have some concerns about the steering arrangements and representation and position of the wheel on this sail only vessel. There may have to be some deconstruction/ modification in this area.
 
I have to say I am thoroughly enjoying this build, a departure from my usual 18th century naval subjects.
 
Researching this vessel type is a new interest and I have been in touch with the Curator of the Scottish Fisheries Museum who has provided very useful additional information.
 
Cheers,
 
 
B.E.
20/06/20
 
 

Post 13


 
A Brief diversion from the main event.


 
Included in the kit is a beautifully etched name plate for the Lady Eleanor.


 
What isn’t included in the kit is the Registration Number, something every fishing vessel would have.


 
So, I decided Lady Eleanor should have one too.


 
As Fraserburgh was a centre of the North East herring fishing trade I used the letter code FR.

 

For the number I decided on 620 being the month and year of the model build.


 
It wasn’t by accident that I decided on fitting the first rubbing strake 6mm below the top strakes. This is the space required for the Registration plate.


 
To make the plate I used a 6mm wide Boxwood strip, and for the characters BECC 5mm vinyl.


5563(2)
The lettering is gold which I don’t want, these registration plates seemed to have white lettering on a black board.

 
The answer is to paint the board white, apply the letters, paint over with a waterproof black marker, and hope the result is as desired once the letters are peeled off.


5568(2)
Well not quite, there was a little bleed beneath the vinyl which required touching in, but I quite like the result.


5576(2)

5578(2)
For a simpler approach Becc do supply 5mm white letter/number sets which could simply be fitted on a black board.


 
Just a small enhancement but now back to the build.


 
B.E.

17/06/20

 
 

No time like the present, I have re-aligned the water-line at midships.

5557

5541

5540

5559
 
I think I will leave it alone now until I get the paint for the Boot topping.
 
B.E.
16/06/20
 

Post 12


 
That Waterline business


 
I admit I hate doing waterlines, but I thought with this fairly  simple hull form it would be ok.


 
It wasn’t.


 
Neither was it clear where in the cradle the hull was supposed to fit. The hull was a good but not a perfect fit and there was a choice of positions which suited, one as good as another. Was there any hull drag involved? The plan seems to show the top line at the bow below the top point at the stern, which would suggest drag.

 

I first tried the (common) method of marking the bow and stern points by measuring down from the stem and stern posts, and then used the Amati waterline marker along the hull.


 
James made it look easy, but for me this didn’t seem to produce a good result. The bow and stern point were fine but the line seemed to go far too high up in centre area of the hull at mid-ships.

Conversely if I start at the centre the bow and stern points are too low.


 
My next approach was to use the bow and stern points and measure down from mid-ships on the plan and mark this on the hull.


 
Tamiya tape was then run smoothly between the three points. This resulted in a lower centre line which looked better to my eye.


5510
Nothing for it but to run the test and apply a base coat of paint, and see how it met the eye.


5515
I prefer to hand paint wooden models, gives a more natural look to my eye, but each to their own.

 

5516

5519
I have used Vallejo Flat Red for this first coat, it looks brighter under the flash than it really is.

 

I do have some Hull Red on order, which is of a darker tone

 

5521

5528

5529

5532

5535
 
This is as far as I will go for present, I’m not quite sure whether the mid-ships line needs to come up a tad, so there may well be some fiddling yet to do.


 

 
B.E.

16/06/20

 
 

Post 11
 
 
Progressing the hull
 
 
 
At this point I add the bulwark rubbing strakes comprising half-round Walnut strip. Nice quality strip that does the job perfectly.
 
 
I think this will make a nice contrast to the Pearwood planking.
I found using pva adequate for the purpose rather than ca.
 
 
Below are two other rubbing strips also of Walnut.
 
 
The kit manual suggests that the first of these is positioned around 3mm below the upper strake, and the second 4mm below that. The name plate fits between these two strakes.
 
 
I have looked at many photo’s of Fifie’s and similar boats and
there doesn’t necessarily seem to be a set positioning, or even number of rubbing strakes along the sides.
 

Reaper
Looking at the Reaper these two lower rubbing strakes are below the name and Registration number.
 

Swan.
The same applied to the Swan.
 

5474(2)
I have opted to place the first strip 6mm below the upper strake, and the second 4 mm below that.
 

5478(2)
I used Tamiya tape to set the position.
 
 
I found it tricky fixing these very narrow strips as ca is really the only option, and the risk of marking the surrounding areas with glue is high.
 
 
I applied Acetone using a fine paint brush to clean up as I went along.
 

5481(2)

5483(2)

5488(2)
 
Starting to look like a fishing boat now I think. 🙂
 
 
 
 
B.E.
15/06/20