Martin W

Ron -- How many times do we all have to learn that a big part of model building consists of gnashing the teeth and using language that would make a sailor blush?
 
I spent the weekend out in my woodworking shop cutting dovetails for drawers.  When I tried fitting the pieces together nothing would hold.   And then I realized I had cut tails for pins, and had to do them all over.  So I know your feeling.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Upper deck framing design underway.

Very nice clean and crisp joinery Ben; looks great!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Spectacles? Join the club!

Ron - 
 
You have my most sincere sympathies.  Been there, done that, - - thrown the results across the room . . . 
 
I saw in an earlier photo that you are using a mini-torch to do the heating. 
I never liked the one I have.  Like you, I had a lot of trouble localizing the melting.
Now I use either a resistance soldering unit (Cold Heat) or a small soldering iron used for the electronics industry.
It takes a bit longer, but I have much more control over where the heat is and where it isn't.
A wet piece of folded paper towel is all I ever need to keep the heat from travelling too far.
 
Best of success.
 
Dan
 
 

While I am hardly an expert at soldering, I think some kind of heat sink may have prevented all of the heat being transferred to the anchor.  The melting point of the anchor was probably lower than that of the solder so isolating the heat from your anchor may have prevented the mishap.

Ron, your persistence is amazing. Publishing your setbacks will be of help to the rest of us when we try to tackle the same.

Ron, Just a lesson learned.  We all make these mistakes. Hang in there.
Is the anchor a size one you may use for other models in the future?
If so, it’s a good investment to re-make the mold so you can make another one later for a future project.......or when I need one...LOL.
 
Besides, with this lockdown, there should be plenty of time.  😆 

In between gluing the channels to the hull in preparation for test fitting the chain plate assemblies, I worked on the second iron-stock anchor.
 
In the first anchor, I made the right angle bend and spread the end after soldering the stopper flange in place.  It was not easy to make the bend and detail the end after it was part of the anchor, so I decided to do it the other way round, and make the bend and flatten the end first, while I had better access--

 
Then, I can slip the anchor on, and then fashion and solder the flange ring--


 
Instead of simple wire, this time I drilled a hole in a piece of brass bar stock, cut it out, and filed the flange round--


 
It test fit nicely on the iron stock, and I was feeling pretty good about the whole thing--

 
Here it is ready to solder--

 
I held the torch to the ring, and waited for it to glow and the solder to run.  It never happened, but what did happen is this--



 
After it was cool enough to touch, I discovered that the ring had been soldered.  Maybe before the anchor melted, I don't know.  I'm not used to soldering larger pieces of brass like this.
 
First the deadeye burning, then melting the anchor.  Both through mistakes that could have easily been avoided.  It's easy enough to cast another anchor.  The stock is more work.  This one can't be used because it can't be fit with both the flange soldered and the flattened end already done!   Additionally, this was one of the anchors that would benefit from a better mold, so do I take it back that far and redo the mold?
 
My battery of mental energy is depleted.   I may take a few days to recharge.
 
Ron
 

Heh, heh,
 
Well, only a small update.  I didn't do much on the ship today.  Just work on fine tuning the shape of the binding links, and the middle links.  When stretching out the middle link of the last assembly, the joint gave way.  No problem, I'll just solder it back, better than ever.  I laid it out with the dab of silver paste, fired up the torch and applied heat.  I watched as the flux melted, the link turned red, and the silver melted across the joint.  Then I smelled it--burning wood.  As I moved the torch away, I could see the little deadeye glowing red around it's circumference where it was held by its binding link.  I licked my fingers and gingerly pinched the deadeye, hoping to cool it and stop any damage.  It was hot and still glowing as I released it.  I pinched it again but dropped it on the floor.  When I picked it up, it was no longer burning, but the damage was done, the perimeter had burnt away and it fell out of the binding link!  In the center of the photo, one burnt deadeye, and one crushed--
 
 
 
I replaced it with my one remaining spare, and now I have my 20 chain link assemblies, ready to test fit.  And if I have to re-solder any of them, I will remove the deadeye first!!
 
Ron
 
 

Thanks to all who have taken a look, and those who have hit the like button.  Thank you, Dowmer.  It is very satisfying to have learned something new, and cast the anchors out of real metal, instead of making them painted wood.    
 
The first, smallest one, actually came out the best!  There are some minor problems with the molds, especially on the middle two sizes, having to do (I think) with not having the anchor forms securely and fully bedded in the first half of the mold before pouring the second, which resulted in the anchors coming out a sliver too "deep".  I'm not positive that's why because I thought I was being very careful on that point.  It's also possible there was some flexing in the mold with the way I held the halves together.  In any event, the anchors look good, and I am almost out of mold material, so I'm not going to try redoing the molds at this time.   
 
I want to blacken the anchors with the chain plates and links, so I need to continue on with those.
 
I have the binding links, toe links, and chain plates made, so all that is left are the middle links.  With tweezers I held a test deadeye and binding link in the chain plate, and pinned a toe link to it's location on the wale--

 
Then I bent a piece of wire to bridge between them--

 
Using this piece I then put two pins in some wood, to bend a link around-

 
I only made one, as a trial, and after removing the deadeye from the binding link, assembled all three links together, and soldered the middle link closed--

 
The safe way would have been to use higher melting solder on the binding and toe links, to avoid them coming unsoldered when heating the middle link.  I only have one type (I think it's the lowest type, or maybe middle) but I had no problems with the other links.  
 
I replaced the deadeye, and the assembly was then test fit.  On my first try the link was too long, so I shortened it by snipping it, trimming it, and re-soldering it.  This time I soldered it with the deadeye still in the binding link, as an experiment, and there was no damage (meaning I didn't burn it up), so if I have to make adjustments on the rest of the middle links after the fact, I should be able to do so without too much fear.  Here is the test chain link assembly--

 
And here it is test fit--

 
I made 20 or so more middle link loops, assembled them with the other links, and prepared to solder them--

 
I had a relatively large number of failed solder joints (six or seven).  Not the already soldered joints, but the new ones.   One link actually melted, and I had to replace it with one of the extra loops I had bent.  One link I had to re-solder three times before I got it right!  Eventually they were all solid joints.
 
I will temporarily put all the deadeyes in, and test fit them all before blackening.  Technically many of those middle links should be different lengths to account for the increasing angle of the shrouds.  Actually, I'm sure many of my toe links and middle links vary slightly, so I'm hoping I can match all the assemblies to the place they fit best.  And if I have to snip and redo some links, so be it.
 
On the left is the first test assembly that is pretty much bent "to spec".   The second is not finished; its binding link is only roughly to shape, and the middle link hasn't been "stretched" and straightened.  And of course the third hasn't even had the deadeye bent into place--

 
In the course of fitting the deadeyes (so far), I crushed one.   Its remnants are in the middle of the photo below.  To the left of it is my one remaining extra.  In the container to the left are the matching upper deadeyes that the shrouds will be attached to, and in the lid are the smaller topmast deadeyes and their binding loops.  Those may wait for a later time, though it would probably make more sense to do them now also--
 
I'll finish putting these together, then test fit and adjust them.  Somewhere in there I'll fabricate the iron stock on the larger of the two round arm anchors.  Then I can blacken everything.
 
Ron 
 

Good perseverance. Once cleaned up I’m sure they will look much better and you will have the satisfaction of knowing you made them yourself. 

Carrying on with the anchor molding and casting:
 
The second RTV pour, completing the molds--

 
After separating, these were not quite as well done as my first mold.  Mostly, I had to clean up some of the air vents, but there were some other irregularities as well--

 
Then I talcum powdered the molds and taped them up--

 
I heated up the metal (and heated the molds in the oven, before taking them out for this picture)--

 
When the metal was ready, I poured.  At this point, the back end of beginner's luck reared it's ugly head--

 
On the third mold, the metal just ran completely through the mold!!--


 
Opening this third mold I was quite surprised to see there was nothing cast.  The metal had all run through the mold--

 
The second mold also didn't look good.  There was excessive "flash", indicating that the mold halves were not in close contact--
 
 
The third mold (first poured) seemed okay--

 
These two might be keepers, if I could trim the excess metal from the anchor on the right--

 
I couldn't.  The anchor snapped in two while I was trying to trim the metal.  Redo.  So, I figured my cardboard and tape hadn't pressed the two halves of the mold together well enough (even though I had done the same as I had done on that first successful small anchor).  I changed my tactic a bit, using two layers of cardboard, with the innermost matching the dimensions of the mold, and less tape holding the mold together--
 
These were poured--

 
And the results were much better--

 
Then, I re-poured the third mold from the first try which had seemed good.  I just wondered if with my new method it might be even better--

 
It was about the same as before.  But all-in-all I am done casting!--

These should clean up okay, I have a couple of spares, and I am very pleased to have learned a new skill (though far from mastered it!).  
 
Ron

Part two of anchor casting.
 
After successfully casting the first anchor, it is full steam ahead for the other three.
 
This photo shows the three stages of working the clay around the wooden mold.  First the clay base is roughly leveled and smoothed, and a cutout made for the anchor.  Then clay bits are added and mushed up against the anchor form.  Then the clay is carefully smoothed against the anchor form (with a small screwdriver, and the point of some tweezers), trying roughly to put the surface of the clay at the halfway depth of the anchor, and make sure it is "tight" to every profile of the anchor.  It is important to avoid any stray bits of clay that may cling to the anchor form.  Then wire air vents, the pour head, and the registration dimples are added--

 
After painting all the surfaces with mold release, these will be ready for the silicone pour-

 
I find it difficult to guess the amount to mix up.  Too much and it will go to waste--it is fairly expensive material, and I hate wasting anything anyway!  Using the amount I used for the first anchor, adjusted for my slightly bigger box for these larger anchor molds, I mixed up a batch and started pouring--
 
 
As I got to the end, I realized I wasn't going to make it.  The pour caps remained uncovered--

 
It's the quick setting (5 minute) variety, so hoping I wasn't too late, I hastily mixed up a small amount of additional silicone, poured, and it was just enough to cover--

 
Unboxing the molds.  I had added two layers (one still sticking to the clay) of cardboard under the clay so I wouldn't need to use as much clay--without the spacers I wouldn't have had enough clay for all three molds--

 
Interesting that they peeled apart in three different versions.  One with the anchor and vents with the silicone, one with the anchor but NOT the vents, and one with the anchor and vents sticking with the clay--

 
Doesn't matter, the parts stuck in the clay are positioned back in the silicone.  I need to rebuild the boxes around these, fill in and add some more clay for the pour heads, and they will be ready for the second silicone pour--
 
 
Oh, I also made the twenty (plus some extra) toe link loops for the chain plates, and bent them into shape.  In the picture they look very irregular.  Some of the angle bends I can redo better, but the squiggle irregularities
 I'm not sure I can eliminate.  They were a pain to make--
.
 
Ron
 
 
 
 

Definitely cooler, more wine, and probably only the occasional remnant of a hurricane:  Connecticut, where I'm already designing (or dreaming of, depending on whom you talk to and whether my wife is involved in the conversation) my boatyard/wood working shop.  When we'll actually manage to get there is another issue.  Till we do, and I get a work place set up, I'm mostly entertaining myself by watching other builders' progress.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Hi Martin
 
A search in the web revealed that that belt was a gift and it was dyed purple. I guess that was an expensive colour then. However nothing about its construction - some fabric perhaps. Anyhow, I'll think about adding a purple belt to my Bellerophon.
So, you are close to moving. Might I ask where to? Someplace which is cooler, with more wine and less tornadoes and cows perhaps?
 
Cheers
Peter

I need to update that. I have sold my home in Shubie and we now live in Halifax, pretty close to downtown. We're looking to purchase somewhere not too far from town with a bit of space. We've outgrown this home by a lot. Funny enough, Shubie is close to the Bay of Fundy so I was still close to the water. Navy allows me to live out to just past Shubenacadie without any problem but it's convenient living 5 minutes from the dockyard to go to work. 

Thanks Hamilton!
 
Martin,
The last batch of wire I bought here:  https://contenti.com/
 
Beadsmith German Round Bead Wire

They have multiple gauges and types.  I bought plain brass.
 
It soldered just fine.  It is half hard which is good in some ways, but not in others.  It's definitely harder to form.  Heated to solder, it becomes soft.  I just noticed though, when grabbing this photo, that it is tarnish resistant.  I wonder if that will cause a problem when I try to blacken it.  (And maybe that's why soldering didn't discolor it?)  Before I spend more time using it, I better try blackening!  [Edited to say no problem blackening]
 
They also sell soft, but in much larger quantities (therefore more cost) that I didn't need.
 
Ron
 

Hi Peter -- Beer is always good, even in the cold.  I don't have my classical sources at hand right now, since I've packed them up in preparation for our move out of the prairie.  But I do recall a warm evening in Cambridge with some friends, when we were foolishly drinking merlot instead of IPA, and we entered a wager into the College Betting Book about the construction of Bellerophon's belt.  Whether the bet was ever resolved, I can't say, because of that initial error of drinking merlot in such warm weather.  Never again!
 
Martin

Wow, you've added metallurgy to your impressive set of skills.  Getting the right sized anchors seems to be a persistent problem, and you've solved it.  Ditto with the chains.  Having rejected the ones that came in my kit, I'm trying to get my nerve up to re-learn silver soldering techniques for the umpteenth time.  So tell me, where do you get your bass wire?  All that I've bought locally has been coated with something that prevents soldering.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Hi Snowy
 
Yes, the same stripes for 1st and 2nd planking and yes again I tried to stagger it by starting the 2nd planking a bit too high and then sanding off the top 1mm of the 2nd planking. (With some foresight I would however have done this to the 1st planking because it would be less obvious.) Anyhow I still had a few areas where the seams of both layers met - and split during sanding. Reinforcement with liquid CA glue helped. Btw I used CA glue for the whole 2nd planking and epoxy glue to fix the rails.
 
 
Hi Sailor1234567890
 
Well I think you could start with the boats. Me, I was impatient to see the real dimensions of the ship and started with the big one. I don't know if you could use the boats as training pieces, if that is on your mind, because they are fiddly work and you have less room for corrections with those thin planks.
 
I had to check where that place Shubenacadie is. I hope you forgive me that I had never heard of it. Well, that looks like a nice location, quite close to Halifax and therefore much closer to the sea and the navy than my place.
 
Cheers all
Peter

Any reason why you couldn't have built the boats first?  Looks sharp though. 

That's outstanding work.
A wonderful model.
And for that, my deepest respect and admiration.

Coming from you, Johann, that is a great compliment.  Thank you.

Amazing work on the anchors, Ron! I don't think I would have gone past thinking about it and then ordering something "good enough" from somewhere. It's this level of dedication to your build that makes this one a favourite!
hamilton