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About clearway

  • Birthday 03/27/1966

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    Cumbria U.K.

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  1. thanks for looking in everyone, back in the shipyard and now have the strengthening straps and gudgeons on the sternpost, also got the glazing in the larger skylight and painted the brass bollards on the windlass. the rudder is just resting in place, i have put a pulley wheel for lifting it but still need to add the pintles. take care all Keith
  2. ouch Emmet at least it missed the buildings! you will have a nice supply of firewood though😉 Keith
  3. Ty for likes and looking in/ comments folks. Except for the dremel i did use a similar method to keith s (i just used rat tail and sandpaper wrapped around dowel while twiddling the drums around in my fingers) and drilled and fitted a length of brass rod to reinforce the joins. Unfortunately Emmet i have just come off furlough gto be made redundant (boss is 70 and can't be bothered anymore) however one of the lads is thinking of taking over and if he can get repairs coming back in i might be going back in a couple of months, all a bit hit and miss. I salvaged the gears about 20 years ago (been there 30 years January just gone) 😱 oh how time flies. Back with Terror and nearly got the bigger skylight ready for varnishing/ glazing along with more glazing bars added to smaller skylight. take care all Keith
  4. happy new build i nearly bought this but settled on hms beagle instead. Keith
  5. to quote keith s "the little terror" continues. Got the glazing bars in on the bigger skylight and used some brass shim from my spares box and shaped the metal bollards on the windlass using round nosed pliers. take care all Keith
  6. well done, another build down the ways You will find 2nd build easier😉 Keith
  7. Thanks for the likes and views everyone. I am probably going to use humbrol clear fix Keith as it can be used for small glazed windows also the stovepipe will need an angled piece added to the end, but i agree it does look nice😉, stick some of the clear windows on the end of a cocktail stick and run it around the frame and across. I decided to redo the windlass barrel , i cut out the carved teeth and used some nylon gears i scrounged off some cooker clock rotary dials from work, and also added the gear between frames and warping drum. also added some of the glazing bars to the skylights, i cut out the ends of the opening on the sides and added walnut strip. then drilled down using the holes on the roof as a guide, when these have dried i will remove other ply support that notches into roof and repeat with ends and corners if that makes sense. used 1mm square walnut for the glazing bars. Also got the hatch on place forward of the after accommodation hatch. Take care all Keith
  8. that would make sense Keith i agree, the binnacle on ships a few years later had a small binacle mounted on the deckhouse infront of the helm e.g. cutty sark. Back in the shipyard and got the accommodation hatches finished and the extra planking under the capstan, nothing is actually glued in place on the decks yet. Also found a brass stovepipe in my odds n sods box so will use it for captain croziers stove😁 take care all Keith
  9. me as well Keith, but with being portable it wouldn't be a problem. to be honest though the captain gave the course orders and often if in open water would give the command "full and by" which means keep her steered with the sails full of wind so no compass needed to steer by, also the reason why the helm was always right at the rear of sailing vessels so the helmsman could mind the trim of the sails. Keith
  10. just done some looking around online and found this 19th C Copper Ships Binnacle Compass mounted with a illumination lantern manufactured by Dents London The Compass is stamped Patent Liquid,Dents 61 Strand London 1836 Dent constructs the First Gravity Escapements. Dent invented and registers the Fluid Compass, which was used by the Royal Navy and the Royal National Life Boat Institution Maybe this would be what terror carried for the helmsman? Keith
  11. good start Emmet , at least she is easier to handle than the beast and you now have more framing/ planking knowledge😉. Stay safe m8. Keith
  12. ahhhhh, the azimuth compass was not something i was familiar with. seen the binnacle cabinet in the pics we were exchanging Keith and find the idea of it on top of the skylight a bit weird as they are normally on the deck unless they had a smaller style binnacle by then (we will have to see what mr Betts book comes up with methinks). 🤔 Keith
  13. hello all, finally got round to building the two caldercraft 10 spoke ships wheels i bought to replace the 8 spoke occre supplied ones and fitted the brass trim to the columns , also worked on the table for the azimuth compass (i suspect the compass by this stage was in a box around 12" square and not in a cabinet like on earlier ships) i used some turned brass columns left over from earlier builds for the legs, a bit chunky but i reckon a table on the exposed deck of a ship wouldn't have spindly thin legs. still not sure how i am going to improve the skylights but i do have some 1mm square section walnut about my bodice🤔🤨. decided to use the dark oak stain/ varnish on the capstan. so far the wheels have been primed and had a base coat of humbrol dark earth, will use washes and varnish to make them hopefully look a bit more "woody" Take care all Keith
  14. Ty keith s and broden and for likes and views everyone , what Keith s said regarding windlass barrell, but still better in wood even if casting was right😁. the angled wood replacing the wooden knees infront of windlass are from from the angled offcuts you are left with when removing accomodation hatch roofs from middle of tops Keith😉 i cut them to size and gave them a coat of CA to strengthen the ply. I might be restarting work soon myself so will be shipyard deprived😱, it normally takes me nearly a year to get as far as i did with Victory and Terror. Keith
  15. Hello again all- spent the day working on the philips capstan- built the base with pawl bits out of different thickness plasticard and used Peco track fixing pins for the bolts also including a pic of the windlass barrel supplied with the kit beside the new one- i should really cut the warping drums off the end of mine and fit some cogs between the warping drum and windlass sides. That's about as good as i can get the capstan in 1/75 scale- used humbrol gun metal to paint the base. not sure whether to use clear varnish on the woodwork, or use the dark oak stain/ varnish like i used on the windlass? Have fun all and take care. Keith

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