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Everything posted by clearway

  1. After the elation of the lovely fitting together of the frames happy moment gone- when the transom was fitted the hole for the rudder was out of alignment and the bulwarks are a couple of millimetres short of the stem🤨- got ye old craft knife out and cut the rudder aperture wider (also had to trim a little off the deck). On the bulwarks once the glue had dried i pulled the brass pins and drilled the holes out to 1mm and inserted ye olde cocktail stick trennels trimmed to size. take care all Keith
  2. the problem with aluminium is it forms an oxidised layer in contact with air- this is what makes it hard to glue/ weld. before gluing or painting give it a rub down with either an abrasive rubber or very fine sandpaper/ emery cloth and paint straight away. Keith
  3. Ty Jeff- yep as already mentioned and shown earlier in log the billings supplied one was humungous! Pssst Emmet the seats of ease are there just below and infront of the block on the knighthead😉- hope they didn't hit a big wave when mid job😱🤢 Keith
  4. looks alright from here Keith😁- besides when people are viewing her they will be drawn to the deck fittings and rigging. Keith
  5. TY and Yes Emmet the jeers on the yard are towards the middle and rig to the three way blocks stropped to the masthead- they along with the sling take the weight of the yard - see earlier posts for rigging main yard- and are near the trusses, Keith
  6. looking good emmet- i do all my sanding outside for the same reasons (means no hull construction in winter months though i am looking into fitting a woodstove in one of the outbuildings for messy sanding/spraypainting jobs during bad weather). For tapering my planks i use a small surfoam, but did use coarse sandpaper wrapped around a piece of wood for years. Keith
  7. thanks for views likes and comments everyone- back in the shipyard and work progressing slowly on the foreyard, got the strops on the jeer blocks finished also got the Admirals lantern in place behind the main top while looking at the bow area realised i hadn't properly rigged the fore t'gallant stays- long tackle block seized and rigged to hooked block on knighthead - tail end not permanently glued yet. take care all Keith
  8. Thanks for looking in everyone- removed the pins and gave hull a slight sanding but not too much until transom and bulwarks have dried- still not sure about adding 2nd planking if i am most likely going to go with a painted finish. take care all Keith
  9. Hi Emmet- the seats of ease are a polite way of saying toilets- long drop non flushing open air type- the quarter galleries on the stern are for the ranking officers toilets and the midshipmans toilet is in the semi circular bulkhead in the bow. the gammoning for the bowsprit goes through an elongated hole you see in the bolster marked B in the diagram, and the sails tie of to the timberheads on the f'cstle. Keith
  10. thanks Jo, you have done a great job with the deck- i worked from the top down using brass pins which were then removed after the glue had hardened then added filler in any gaps and sanded down.i start tapering from where the frames start to narrow- on this one i started tapering from 4th frame in from the bow and terminated the top most plank around where the mizzen mast is with the sternwards taper starting just after the fullest middle frame - this allowed the next plank to start sweeping up the counter i also soak the strips for a few hours in water to stop them cracking when bent and use wood adhesive as opposed to cyano- hope this makes sense! Keith
  11. hmmm not good times for anyone Emmeti have heard similar stories from people im u.k. om the victory bow i see no stepped cut outs in the beak which is nice of them! the gratings actually curve upwards as they leave the bow deck- the pieces for forming the supports should be upright and at 90 degrees ton the keel there should be a side elevation in the plans but i have never built a kit from them guys so not sure which way they go around it. found this pic in an old modelling book. take care and hope things get better for you soon. Keith
  12. thanks for views and comments everyone- first planking now finished with stealers fitted at stern. also took delivery of two caldercraft 10 spoke ships wheels- although 1/64 scale they are 24mm across spokes so not too oversize (well spotted with the spoke count keith s). next job pull pins and get sanding. take care all Keith
  13. you are welcome Emmet- the above comment was for Matthew as he has never built a wooden ship before. as regards your Vic you are doing the correct thing in hesitating and thinking through because yes the main gun deck is a bugger to get into when all decks and skid beams are in place. hope you get the attention you need to get on the mend again and see her finished. Keith
  14. welcome to the terror club- feel free to ask questions. Keith
  15. ah brings back memories from 23 years ago! when planking billings hulls don't follow the same method of planking as some other kits, taper the planks at bow and stern from deck level down- i ues this method and have never used filler pieces- when planking finished run white wood glue between planks then when hardened start sanding- my hms terror blog is on the planking stage and i will add a couple of pics here of finished fd10 and billings marie jeanne which has been sanded down and waiting priming. hope this helps with planking Keith
  16. this is why you see a lot of people (including the advise post at the start of build logs) advising against big complicated models like victory and constitution- this has taxed me at times and i have built and finished around 12 ships before this one. serious advise is to finish the framing then get a smaller kit (billings "Norden" is fairly cheap and you can practice tapering planking etc before tackling this monster hull). Then resume the victory build. Keith
  17. the planks are flush matthew- they are just warped a little cross wise and with the caulking gives the impression of a clinker style hull.
  18. looks o.k. so far Keith- i am thinking about using the point of a scriber to imitate nail indents. The chainplates look a lot better than occres (i am either going to scratchbuild the chainplates or go down same path- depends how energetic i feel at the time). Keep up the good work so far. Keith 😉
  19. nice one with ye olde airfix kit! someone did etched hammock netting for the airfix victory (scalelink i think) but he semi retired and someone else is doing some of his etches (mostly railway modelling side though- called fretcetra or something similar). Keith
  20. yes the blocks above have rope strops the wire is for others- my wire is a little finer - also can use it to make eyebolts and hooked blocks- the blocks at base of mainmast and on yard pics are stropped with iron wire. yard with iron stropped blocks and blocks with iron strop with hook i know you like extreme close ups Emmet😉 Keith
  21. better too many than too few Emmet are you going to put a little piece of deck in ehere the entryport goes into the hull? i wish i had🤪 Keith
  22. Thanks for views, likes and comments everyone- if i go for the 2nd planking i will use wood glue- the type i use is evo-stick fast grab glue- you can also use dress makers pins to hold the thinner planks in situ till they dry. I need to think how i am going to intergrate the stern/ rudderpost assembly into the hull, just glad i managed to get the "tuck" at the stern. Safe to say i have deviated slightly from the destructions😉. shot of planking nearly completed- glad i didn't go with fashion pieces for the bow- need some stealer planks in the stern then pins pulled and sanding time. take care all Keith
  23. Ty Emmet- yep i also run my rigging through beeswax as well- i also never throw any ends i have cut off to use for strops-i also use annealed iron jewelry wire for blocks which is thin and coated black. Keith
  24. good idea with the bow filler pieces Jeff- easier to remove material than adding it😱 Keith

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