Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

275 profile views
  1. For what it's worth, Wolfram zu Mondfeld says that smaller bitts at the base of the mast were used until about 1660; the sheets were reeved through sheaves in the bitts and then belayed at the bitt head. "Until about 1660 these bitts were linked by simple crosspieces, but after that these cross pieces began to be fitted with a number of belaying pins, to which additional ropes of the running rigging could belay." (zu Mondfeld, Historic Ship Models, p. 160)
  2. Would appreciate any feedback. So, another noob question. I had planned to stain my masts, but the Model Expo English Oak stain I have looks very orange. I was thinking of using the walnut stain ( I also have this already) which is a somewhat rich dark brown, but I wonder--is there any reason hstorically why that would be a bad (inaccurate) choice?
  3. I've also gotten a start with a few deck accessories. I think some pieces may have gotten lost, so I've had to hand shape some pieces like the prow bitt--or maybe I was just supposed to do that anyway? Rather than cutting holes in the deck with nothing below, I've painted the deck black under the grates. I think that gives the right effect, but again, my first build, so...
  4. Sadly, this kit got packed away for a couple of years. Wow, does time fly. I've dug it out and started up where I left off. Painted the keel, tallow below the waterline and flat black above. Pretty clean lines from the masking, but I may need to retouch the strakes with black. I was a bit wobbly on the waterline, and I'm not sure what would look right, so I'd be curious to hear opinions.
  5. With the new Dremel in hand, I managed to get the gun ports cut. I've been filing them out, but can't seem to get them as square as I would like. Still awaiting shipment of wood for replanking the deck.
  6. Thanks everyone, I managed to use a Dremel to cut out the posts, sand them flush to the deck line, and I will place another layer do .5 mm planking to cover this over. I think we're looking good. Eric
  7. Hi again, I have decided to make some adjustments to a model I have been working with of the Black Prince. These adjustments will require require me replank the deck. The kit called planking the deck withTanganyka and I used all the kit offered. However, when I went to purchase more Tanganyka from Model-Expo online, this was discontinued. Would anyone have suggestions for a more available wood for deck planking that could reasonably substitute for deck planking on 1775 schooner? Thanks, Eric
  8. The instructions show to shave off the parts that rise above the wale, but then there are pictures of the inside wale describing the cannon portholes that dont seem to show the posts at all. I think I will plan to plank between them.
  9. I am on my very first build and I am doing plank on bulkhead model of the Black Prince. On the bulkheads, there are high protruding posts that come through the deck as seen here: I've been looking at some other images to get a sense of the interior layer of wale planking, and they dont seem to show these posts. My question, as best I can formulate it: should I have cut these out prior to planking the deck? should I lay the planks between the posts? should I lay the planks along the inside of these posts as I frame--the way the exterior planks lay against the bulkheads? Or do yo
  10. Greetings everyone, This is my very first build, but I can tell I am hooked. I'm sure this will be the first of many. As of this posting, we are well underway: false keel and bulkhead framing first layer hull planking in boxwood second layer hull planking in walnut deck planking with tanganyka--a few flaws here, but I think these will be hidden by the inside wale planking It's time to cut the canon portholes--which makes me pretty nervous. I also have some questions about the inside wale plan
  • Create New...