Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Nijmegen - The Netherlands

Recent Profile Visitors

799 profile views
  1. Before I started with the masts, I had installed the life boat. Having in mind the ropes and blocks that I used for the sails, I wanted to reduce the size of the blocks and ropes of the life boat. So I did. Pictures of before and after. Also the main sail was made and installed. This one without the copper wires and thus without curve. This because I intend to have this sail partly folded, as in the 1:10 model in the Vasa Museum. Before mounting the sail, first all blocks and ropes were attached. I wait with tying all the lines and with the folding until I h
  2. Thank you for the compliments! I was using the plans from Corel for most of the standing rigging, but I have adapted where I had seen adjustments made by Micheal here on MSW (md1400cs). I looked into the Zu Mondfeld book for the details on how to do things. The plans from Corel have no sails, so I looked at the example set by Michael and have also been looking very carefully at the photos of the Vasa Museum 1:10 model and the drawings from Billing Boats, that do include the sails and lines. In addition, I wanted that the lines going to the belaying pins do not cross, so i had to
  3. Also the last sail of the foremast, the topsail (the middle one), has been installed. This sail has a nice curve in it, due to the copper wires in the seams. The lower sail bent somewhat too much to the front, in my opinion. But I do not like to add a small rope to tie it to the mast... Also the bowlines of the three foremast sails installed, using 4 mm blocks. Missing still is the sheet line from the (lower) foresail. The buntlines on deck have been tidied by making flamish roles. The lines at the belaying pins have been cut short now. Lateron, I will add line bundles. T
  4. The next sail is the foremast sail. The one in the middle, the topsail, will be done next. There are now many lines/ropes running from the mast and the yards to the deck. The lifts are attached the wooden pilars on deck. The bunt lines of the foresail are attached to the 4 blocks on the deck. The clewlines, the leechlines and the braces are attached via belaying pins on the railing. The first spider attachment, I had made a mistake by making 8 lines per spider, which makes it more complicated to put tension on all of the ropes. This was t
  5. Meanwhile also installed the topgallant sails on the main mast and the fore mast, except for the bowlines. The lines for the lift are tied to the deadeyes on the platform and also the clewlines will be so. This makes them more or less independent from the rest. There are several belaying plans for the Wasa, and I have taken this configuration from the plan that I found in the built-log of md1400cs. I noticed, that in the Billing Boats plans, also the lines from the topgallant sails go to the belaying pins in the railings. The halyards are both connected via spiders to the stays. For
  6. The topsail of the mizzen mast has meanwhile also been installed. The crossjack only has braces and no lift, so having the crossjack horizontally was not so easy. I finally did so by putting a lot of tension on the sheetlines of the topsail with which I could get the crossjack horizontal. Also the start of the bowlines added to the topsail using rings and not blocks, but not the bowlines themselves yet. This will be done later.
  7. I have been attaching the sails to the yards, including most of the blocks. This so that it is easier once the yards&sails are attached to the masts. The sequence of installing yards&sails is a matter of choice, but I decided to start with the mizzen mast, because it is more or less standing on its own. I made the mizzensail to have eyelids from rope, to install the bunt lines, before adding the sail to the yard. The mizzensail is attached to the mast including the parrel, which is with a block leading to a ring at the base of the mast. The spider part at the top
  8. And also the second sail of the bowsprit installed, including the many ropes attached. It turned out that putting tension on the ropes from the yards towards the tip of the bowsprit was key in having this yard firmly in place. Surprising how stable this is now, with all the ropes at tension. Before attaching the ropes to the belaying pins, I had first watched on youtube how this is done on a real sailing boat. I attached the rope in this same 'real-life' manner. Only the ropes at the bottom of this lower sail towards the hull of the ship (the sheet line) is still to be done. Als
  9. I have installed the first sail. Before installing on the ship itself, I had attached the sails to the yard and also some of the blocks. I have started with the topsail of the bowsprit. This area includes a lot of lines and thus a lot of checking for the appropiate connections of ropes and blockes and belaying pins. I had made the parrel from wooden strips and some brown plastic beads. The wires inside the seams of the sail make that it falls nicely and with some curve.
  10. Next step in making the sails was attaching the bolt-ropes, including the eyes at the corners of the sails. The eyes at the top of the sails, made by sewing the 'left-over' part to the sail. Originally, this should be done by splicing, but this was too difficult for me. A time-consuming part, because it was all handwork, whereas the previous step of the sails was with the sewing machine... The lower sail of the main mast does not have the shaping wires in the seams, because I intend to have this one furled up, like the 1:10 model in the Vasa Museum.
  11. I have made good progress with the sails. Karl (Karleop) and Michael (Md1400cs) were a good source of information and example, as always. Karl had in his blog on MSW the dimensions for the sails for the Vasa, which I only had to modestly adjust to fit the sails to the dimensions of my yards. I have stitched the vertical lines at always 8 mm, because this was a convenient separation on the sewing machine. And the number of columns then fits nicely with the examples of others. After stitching the lines, I used a 1 cm overlap, that I divided in half to make the nice seams at
  12. I have made the yards, following the dimensions as described in the Corel instructions. I have done the tapering with my larger lathe (I had bought a very old version). This is a bit overkill compared to the smaller lathe, but it has the big advantage that this lathe is more intended for metal turning. Therefore, the knives can be fixed into a holder and the wood turning is thus more precise, as I could now do the tapering with a fixed angle of about 3 degrees. The big yard on the foremast took most time, because it is diameter of 7 mm, whereas I did not have nutwood in that diameter, so
  13. With the masts in place, I noticed that the stand that was provided with the kit is not very stable, because the center of gravity is now higher with the mass of the masts. Therefore, I decided to make a new stand. I had some old solid wood that I had kept which was dark with some wood stain, but with sanding it became light colored again. I had cut some paper to match approximately the shape of the hull at the places where I wanted to have the hull resting on the stand. I made the shapes in the wood using a band saw, followed by more detailed sanding to fit the shape. In order
  14. Following on the futtock shrouds, I had first made the ratlines for the futtock shrouds. This also to get some experience with making and tying the rat lines. Next step was of course making the ratlines for the normal shrouds. Naturally, this took many hours. Prior, I had thought that making the ratlines would be unpleasent, but I rather enjoyed it. In order to have equal distance between the ratlines, I had printed (from Excel) equidistant lines of 5 mm on paper. The paper then attached behind the shrouds, which made it also easier to see the ropes and to push them around the shroud
  • Create New...