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Andre

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    Nijmegen - The Netherlands

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  1. Thank you for the nice comments! Jan, Indeed, I had noticed that your model (updates) had stopped for a long time. I will be looking forward to see your resumed updates.
  2. The last item of the model that I wanted to do was to make the name badge. I used the kit supplied shield and printed (at work) a sticker with the (translated from Dutch) text "Vasa Swedish ship of war, built and sunk in Stockholm 1628. Model in scale 1:75, built 2012-2021, by <me>". The sticker was cut to fit into the shield. I have added some photos of my now completed VASA: The next big thing for me is building a display case. I have seen a very
  3. Hi Frank, Thanks. I had read that in your log. Luckily, my flags were the same color on both sides.
  4. I made and installed the flags, which were supplied in the kit. I have shaped them with via the ' tin can' method, using diluted wood glue to fixate the shape of the flags. This worked quite well. The flags were made with small rope loops, and I connected one long line/rope that ran circular: from the top of the flag, through the block and then to the bottom of the flag, using the same 'knot' as for the sheet lines. This left thus a double rope to tye to the belaying pin. To make it easier to attach these double lines to the belaying pin, I had glued the two lines together.
  5. Hi Mike, Thank you for your further explanations! I have now a good understanding of the principle of how you made the case. I am looking forward to your additional photos! No hurry from my side, because there is still a lockdown in my country, so I cannot buy materials... I intend to make my case 102 cm by 35 cm wide and 75 cm height. I assume that this is close to your dimensions (and weight...). Andre
  6. Hi Mike, Thank you for taking the time to explain. I understand somewhat better. If you would share additional photos: that would be great! I have understood that your horizontal wooden strips have an extenting part at the bottom so that it fits into the base grooves. I assume my milling the excess away. Is it the same construction at the top? I have seen in your photos that the glass is held in place by clip-skrews. I assume that the horizontal wooden strips at the top are only at the outside, to allow the sliding of the glass? Did you need assistance for slidi
  7. Impressive case! And so it happens: I will be needing to make one myself very soon. What I wonder: do the glass panels go through the horiontal wooden frame parts into the grooves in the base? Or are your horizontal frame parts equipped with extending part to fit into the groove of the base?
  8. The galleries were already some years ago made by me, but they were not yet fully complete. I had earlier replaced the supplied metal parts by simple wooden strips, that I had painted yellow. And between them, I had left empty space. Now, I have added some small wooden pillars, which I had painted white. The size was 2 by 1.5 mm. I have placed them in line with some of the decorative figures on the roofs. Picture before and after (at almost the same camera angle..)
  9. Micheal, Thank you for your comments. Of course, I had looked carefully at your example and solutions. I did not know that no lantern was found of the real Vasa. As it is thus unknown how a lantern would have looked (if added after its maiden voyage), all interpretations may be valid.
  10. I have made and installed the lantern at the stern. As many Vasa builders on this forum, I have chosen not to use the kit-supplied circular lantern (first picture), even though the Zu Mondfeld book does have it included as Swedish example. It turned out that I had another lantern in stock, but I do not remember how I obtained this, probably in a combined purchase. This lantern was more traditional shaped. I did insert a candle-like shape, but this is not good visible anymore once the plastic windows were placed.. I found the color of the lantern too shiny, so I painted it with black
  11. Made and installed the anchor buoys, from wood and rope.
  12. I added lines/coils/ropes to the belaying pins, using the pin method. First the rope a few turns around the pins, under 90 degrees angle, and then made some turn-arounds to tye the rope together. I used a needle underneath to have some space under the ropes to pull the ropes underneath. It makes the appearance of the belaying pins much better, but it is also a pity that this hides the 'real' belaying knots.. Also a picture of the deck, with the coiled ropes, from the sheet lines of the lower sails, on deck.
  13. The main topsail was the last sail to mount. As most of the sails, I had inserted copper wires to give the sail curves, to simulate wind. Without the sheet lines to the yard below, the curvature is actually too much. Attaching to the yards results in a nice wind-like appearance. The sheet lines, from the topsail through the violin block to below had to have a lot of tension to bent the sails close to the yard. With the topsail installed, I could also fixate the lower yard and then hoist the bunt lines and clue lines to have the main sail semi-folded. My attempt was to simulate the Vasa Mu
  14. Before I started with the masts, I had installed the life boat. Having in mind the ropes and blocks that I used for the sails, I wanted to reduce the size of the blocks and ropes of the life boat. So I did. Pictures of before and after. Also the main sail was made and installed. This one without the copper wires and thus without curve. This because I intend to have this sail partly folded, as in the 1:10 model in the Vasa Museum. Before mounting the sail, first all blocks and ropes were attached. I wait with tying all the lines and with the folding until I h
  15. Thank you for the compliments! I was using the plans from Corel for most of the standing rigging, but I have adapted where I had seen adjustments made by Micheal here on MSW (md1400cs). I looked into the Zu Mondfeld book for the details on how to do things. The plans from Corel have no sails, so I looked at the example set by Michael and have also been looking very carefully at the photos of the Vasa Museum 1:10 model and the drawings from Billing Boats, that do include the sails and lines. In addition, I wanted that the lines going to the belaying pins do not cross, so i had to
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