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Andre

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    Nijmegen - The Netherlands

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  1. Following on the futtock shrouds, I had first made the ratlines for the futtock shrouds. This also to get some experience with making and tying the rat lines. Next step was of course making the ratlines for the normal shrouds. Naturally, this took many hours. Prior, I had thought that making the ratlines would be unpleasent, but I rather enjoyed it. In order to have equal distance between the ratlines, I had printed (from Excel) equidistant lines of 5 mm on paper. The paper then attached behind the shrouds, which made it also easier to see the ropes and to push them around the shrouds. I made ratlines only on the shrouds leading to a platform, so not at the upper parts of the masts. In the book of Zy Mondfeld, it is described that these sections should not have ratlines, and I also saw that in the museum model these upper shrouds are without ratlines. Meanwhile, I also made the stays from the toplevel of the mizzenmast to the shrouds of the main mast. This was again with self-made 'triangel' blocks.
  2. I am now busy with the futtock shrouds. I have first attached a copper rod (1 mm diameter) beneath all platforms, such that the futtock shrouds are approximately vertical. I had first patinized the copper rods. I knotted each shroud to the rods, using a rolling hitch. The futtock shrouds are then attached with a hook to the metal rods from the deadeyes connections beneath the platforms. I used a buntline hitch to attach the ropes to the hooks.
  3. I have now reached the maximum height of the model, because I have now also installed the two remaining top sections. At the bowsprit section, I have now also made the stays from the bowsprit mast to the forestay. Before attached these 12 lines, I had first put some extra tension on the stay. With the stays higher on the foremast, there had been some loss of tension. With the additional 12 lines, the stay does curl upwards. I think this is difficult to avoid. I assume that this can be prevented by putting even more tension on the stay from the foremast to the bowsprit, but I also do not want to risk putting too much tension on the bowsprit itself... Balance - Balance... I have attached the 12 lines using the 'rolling hitch 2', Ashley knot number 1735.
  4. The building of the masts is nearing completion already. Meanwhile installed one royal mast: the fourth section, or uppermost part, of the foremast.
  5. Hans, I am happy to read that you adhere to the same thoughts on the levelling of the platforms. I am also following your Dutch log on the 7P: wonderful !
  6. Meanwhile also made and installed the topmasts of the mizzenmast and the foremast. All drawings and other models show that the platforms of the mizzenmast and the main mast are tilted, but I find that odd to see. Therefore, I have them approximately horizontal. The last photo shows the three stays at the bowsprit, coming from the foremast. The lowest stay is 2 mm, the middle is 1.2 mm and the top is 0.7 mm. Mizzenmast: Foremast, with not all ropes cut yet:
  7. First, I had corrected the rope from the stay on the block at the bowsprit. Meanwhile, also made the shrouds on the second part of the main mast. And the stay from this second level to the foremast. The number of deadeyes at the wales for the main mast is nine. I had seen in the technical discussions at the Vasa Museum that it was likely that the last/nineth deadeye was not for a shroud but for a back stay. So, I had decided to use this one for a backstay to the second level of the main mast. I used the same rope thickness as for the shrouds thusfar.
  8. Michael, Patrick, Thank you for your compliments! Michael, I had not even noticed using the wrong side of the block. Is an easy fix :). Thanks for alerting.
  9. Also the stay from the second level of the foremast to the bowsprit now made and attached. It was a tedious task to make sure that the two times three ropes were of correct length to ensure that there would be tension on all of them. The way it came out is not perfect, but good enough. It is nice to see that the tension on each of those 12 ropes is not that high, but the tension on the one rope for the stay is actually rather high. And next also to the second level of the main mast: installed the platform (previously already made), the deadeyes on it, and installed also the second mast. Again, like the fore mast, with a fid and a rope to hoist the second mast up and down. Again, the second mast is not fixed by glue.
  10. After making the lower part of the mizzen mast, I continued with the foremast. I made the cap from solid nut wood, of 15x15 mm. I had some metal parts that I could fit on them. I also made the cap already for the main mast, where the only difference is the diameter of the space for the mast part. I had not glued the second mast part on the lower part, but the construction is very stable after adding the shrouds. I had made the platform such that the space for the second mast part was just big enough to fit, including the somewhat extending axis for the sheave. The sheave of the second mast part was used for the line running from the cap, throught the sheave, again to the cap, and then to deck. The fid that keep the second mast part supported on the platform was connected with a small line to a small holder. I had seen these details in the build log of md1400cs, and it thought them to be a nice addition. The futtock shrouds, from the platform to the lower shrouds, will follow later.
  11. It has become almost routine, but still a lot of time spent on also making the tackles, the shrouds and the stay of the mizzen mast. And back to the foremast. Earlier, I had made the wooden parts of the platform. Now, the deadeyes attached. For the deadeyes on the wales, I had used clamps, but using such clamps here would not give enought height. So, I used copper wire. of 0.6 mm. The copper wire is bent alonf the bottom of the platform, and glued at the bottom, so that the angles and heights are as good as possible and these bents are then soon usable for attaching the hooks to prepare the shrouds between the platform and the lower shrouds.
  12. Now also the shrouds on the main mast attached. This time the spacing of the deadeyes is more even than was the case at the foremast. The mouse for the main stay, and the serving with black rope. Also this one proceeded easier than of the foremast. I now made the mouse itself smaller, without splicing and just with needle and some thread to fasten it. And some overviews of the ship as it is now.
  13. My photos from post #42 (in 2013), that are not visible anymore in the original post nr 42. This was about that I had finally decided to add nails into the hull. And the small side window, that I had added.
  14. Hi Guy, Thank you for alerting me. I had not seen that those photos were not visible anymore. I do not know why these are not visible anymore. Now another try. First for the photos that I had taken myself in the Vasa Museum. At the time of my museum visit, I had not started with building a model of it, and also had not tought about it yet. So, with hindsight, I should have taken many other shots of different views as well.. So, corresponding to my earlier post #39:
  15. I have finalized the main mast itself, by making seizings around it. In most other builds, I see that brown/white rope is used for this. But I did so in black rope. This seems more logical to me, as this would probably be tarred rope. And in photos of the replica of the Batavia (in Lelystad, Netherlands), I also see black rope here. Further near the top, I added a thin band of black foil (which I had made at work..) to simulate a metal coil around the main mast. I had seen this in the build-log of md1400s, and it seemed to me a nice addition. Further, already attached the big block for the stay from the mizzen mast. And then made and installed the tackles on the main mast. The two tackles are here not the same as on the foremast, because now only one is with violin block and the other with a double block and with two attachments on the whales. The four violin blocks for the foremast and now one violin, I had somewhere in a box. But the sixth, I made myself, from nutwood and it looks actually better than the others..

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