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Redshirt

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Posts posted by Redshirt

  1. Hello,

    i have recently come to wonder about how the extremely bluff prows (and sometimes rear sections) of dutch vessels like the galiot are to be planked correctly.

    On most british or frensh vessels a normal plank seems to end on either the stem or the stern (or even both if we use a single plank).

     

    On some vessels (like the Master Korabel  St Gabriel at least some planks end in the wales, presumably because of the extreme angels involved.

    Is this something specific to certain boats or merely a simplification?

     

    added pictures for the Master Korabel St. Gabriel 

     

    MK0301-3.jpg

  2. Thanks for the answer. The problems that frames which have been reconstructed from the waterlines do not fully match the frames given by the monograph as well as inconsistencies between different plans of a single set are something i have experienced far too often with some of the more recent Ancre monographs.

    In the age of cad software this should no longer happen.

  3. 12 hours ago, Moxis said:

    I have a Proxxon FET, which is a great little saw which I use every day for scratch building. I am using also a 36 teeth tungsten carbide tipped blade with the saw, which is better for ripping planks & other work than the stock one. But because the saw is already an old model, it has one drawback: It does not have the micrometer adjustable fence which is standard with new saws nowadays.

    So if you folks are thinking to buy the FET, (or a Micro Lux alternative) be sure that it has this micrometer adjustable fence. And buy the 36 teeth tungsten carbide tipped blade as well. You won't regret it.

     https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27070.php?list

    Did you exchange the longitudinal stop with something more accurate?

  4. 56 minutes ago, amateur said:

    Nobody believes that.... That sounds so simple, so it can't be true.

    madness is setting in here too. Meetings cancelled, people forced to work at home, schools closing at first cough. 

    Interseting chain reactions: scholl closing, kids at home, parents not being able to go to work (or asked to stay at home when the kids feeling not completely well)

    On the bright side: plenty of space in the commuters train ;)

     

    Jan

    This might be the worst global pandemic since the spanish flu a hundred years ago so a certain level of alertness is advisable.

    Northern Italy is a rather horrible example of how bad it can get very quickly. Still, hoarding toilet paper might not be the best solution :)

  5. 5 hours ago, RussR said:

    Another thing to consider is what ever you choose it has to hold your interest (wouldn't want something that you get bored with).  The HM CUTTER SHERBOURNE (CALDERCRAFT 1:64) wouldn't be a bad choice. It has a reasonable scale, not terribly expensive, has all the elements you are looking for. For me a better choice for a 1st build would be something like a AL 1805 Pilot Boat. One can be had for less than $75.00. And if you screw it up your not out a lot of money but you will have learned a lot. Heck, you may find out model ship building isn't for you.

    If you ask a dozen people, you'll get a dozen different opinions. Do what makes you happy.

      

    I would advise against the AL pilot boat. It might have been a decent kit in the past but i recently bought the "renewed" version and was quite dissapointed. The wood is rather cheap, it has too few bulkheads and only a single layer of planks (which requires filling which isn't exactly beginner friendly) and the keel shaper was warped and too thin for it's size.

  6. So, during the Holidays i had another look at the plans and contacted Mr. Fissore who found no problem with them.

    Well, perhaps it is me but unless i realy need new glasses then quite a few things are seriously off here. If anyone with a bit more experience than me could  comment if i am right or just blind it would be most welcome. (i received this file from Mr. Fissore, 4 and 7 AV/AR are his insertions, the other measuring lines are mine)

    PL. 1 -- 1÷12 -- 310 x 680 -- 19-12-2018 modified.pdf

  7. The discrepancy was between the frames (as well as the body plan) and the  waterlines at 1:12. Something about the waterlines ist seriously off. They appear to be less wide than they should, which makes it difficult to create the ( sadly missing) bevel lines. Truthfully, i am at a loss here. Either i missed something or Fissore realy messed up.

  8. I have recently purchased this little monograph and think that it wouldn't hurt to share some thoughts about it.

    The monograph includes a short historical section and, probably more interesting for us, the plans as well as a considerable number of pictures of Mr. Fissore's construction of the vessel. The editing of my english version is...spotty but everything can be more or less understood without too many problems. The pictures are nice, in colour and should be generaly helpful.

    Let's get to the plans. There are 11 CAD drawn and pretty detailed plans. 10 for the boat and one for the capstain (visible in Fissore's diorama). Sadly Mr. Fissore has some rather unwelcome habits. While drawing the keel parts on plan 2 separatly is supposed to be helpful one needs to keep in mind that they are somewhat different, perhaps simplified?, from those visible on plan 3 (where they can be seen in a longitudinal view of the boat). Fissore also fails to draw the rabbet in the parts of plan 2 (just like he failed to do in his similar Felucca plans) which is an annoying oversight that adds aditional work.

    The frame plans are another, much worse, problem. In the pictures of his buildlog the frames have the usual inner and outer (beveling)lines which helps fairing.

    In the plans there are only the outer lines...

    This might be acceptable for the square frames but inorder to get acceptable prow and aft frames with a certain bevel we either have to leave some "fat" or we have to construct the beveling lines from the plans.

     

    edit: Did some additional measuring and it doesn't look good. The frames are up to 4mm wider than they should be according to the waterlines.

    This is not the first seemingly somewhat carelessly drawn plan i have seen from Fissore and i don't think that i will buy any other.

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