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Everything posted by Clark

  1. Frank, the advantage (at least to me) is that you are ahead. But I was also reflecting about the two holes for the foremast. I could also not realize why there are two. Following the Fluer de Lis may be an option. But it also may have been a sense of symmetry since it was a ship of pomp. Clark
  2. No problem. The point is that you have to think about the next 10 steps when building the Reale.
  3. Thanks Frank, the photo and my description my have led to errors but I have just drilled the water outlets, the slots for the shrouds are probably led through holes in the outer gangway. I will keep your hint in mind. Clark
  4. Lower planks are glued now and I have started to drill the holes for water outlet. I made some help lines. One line 3 mm distance to the hull to mark the middle of the holes. Rectangular ones to mark the location of the supports. Distance between the rectangular lines was 9.5 mm. Thus, I made a small metal template, outer width 9.5 mm with an inner opening of 6 mm to mark the limits of the holes. For drilling the holes, a driller 0.8 mm was used, wood between the holes was cut and sanded. 6 mm width was marked on the sander (sanding paper glued on wood piece). To arrange supports for the lower planks, I started with the first one arranged by a metal strip clamped to the yolks. Gap between the following supports was kept by using a wood block with 7.3 mm thickness
  5. Supports of port side and starboard side are now all fixed. Outer ends of supports had to be corrected in height.
  6. Frank, it is a pleasure to see your progress and the effort you are putting into the details. I noticed that you did not install the cannons yet. This because you wanted to finish the front deck first? Clark
  7. Thanks Frank, when I first read your blog I was astonished that only a limited number of supports can be adapted per day. Now I know what you meant. Hope to read further inspiring news in your blog. Clark
  8. All supports of port side are now fixed. It really took some time.
  9. With every new ship fun and effort in rigging increased. Doing the same knots again and again can be very relaxing after a hard day. When I began to build mediterrian ships, the task increased further since the plans and books showing the rigging are limited. Looking in the old paintings is sometimes not helpful. Comparing the rigging plans of Corel and Amatis Xebecs let me suppose that there is still a lot of variation possible. Clark
  10. Song of joy - Beethoven/(Miguel Rios)
  11. With a little help from my friend(s) - Joe Cocker/Beatles Clark
  12. Hi Chuck I was happy to find your blog. Klaus Störtebecker is still a hero in Germany at least at the coast line. As far as I know, the ship is originally named "Toller Hund" : "Toll" has two meanings: mad and great. Klaus Störtebecker was both. Clark
  13. Thanks, it makes adjustment much easier. Clark
  14. As suggested by the Corel manual, I started with the two middle supports #82 and #83 (Corel plans), which are at the lowest point of the deck line. To get them in a vertical position I made a holder with a 1.5 mm slot (= thickness of plywood) and 8 mm width of the vertical wood strips (= distance between the supports). I made also some wood pieces 8 mm wide to keep and control the distances between the supports. Additional supports were added between #82 and #83 and the yokes. Further supports were inserted between the middle ones and the yokes.
  15. Regarding the bitts for fixation of the foremast; I had a discussion with Frank (fmodair) some time ago. Pictures of La Reale and some of other galleys show that there is a deviation of 5-7 degree of the foremast from the vertical axis due to the special handling of the lateen sails. It declines toward the bow. In the Corel plans, the foremast is shown in a vertical position. I decided to follow the paintings and drawings. To follow them, the deviation of the foremast of the vertical axis has also to be reflected in the tube to be drilled into the bitts. I have tested the decline with some wood pieces simulating the bitt and the foremast. Moreover, I do not believe that the bitts were strong enough to withstand the enormous power of the big sail, i.e., the foremast had to fixed at the keel line. Such a fixation is also shown in the Mondfeld plan of the galley La Dracene. Thus, I made surroundings for the foremast fixation. Next step is adapting the supports for the oars., which is probably the most difficult part
  16. Some recommend to mix the paint with PVA to get an uneven result. I am eager to read the news on your post.
  17. Frank, which kind of paint do you want to use? Water based paint would not work, I assume. May be better to use Humbrol or any other enamel paint. But I am not sure if the sanding procedure proposed works together with this kind of paint. Any experience? Clark
  18. Glad you are back. "Notebook" is an excellent idea. Clark
  19. When building the hatch coamings, I put the lids at a higher position than recommended in the Corel plans. Regarding the coamings for the anchor line, it should probably only protect the hole in the deck from water flooding in. Nevertheless, the rope would be damaged if pulled along the edges. Thus I added a protection. The hatch coamings had to be tapered due to the sloping deck line in the line from the middle to the hull. It is necessary to keep the upper line of the hatch coamings horizontal since the footplates of the oarsmen will be attached later. To put the coamings in place, ship had to fixed. Hull was protected with painter tape. Ship was put in the slipway, levelled again and fixed by balsa/foam supports. Since I was afraid that the long stem post might get broken (it is really a long and small hull), it was covered by balsa pieces.
  20. Thanks a lot, Frank. Did you have the chance to get back to the bench? I am eager to read news of your progress. Your report is more than inspiring. Clark
  21. I decided to reseal the hull. I sanded it (grade 120, 180, 320) which took me about one week. It is really not the job I like. After sanding, I sealed it with the water based diluted (~20% H2O) acrylic varnish. Corel material of the supports for the middle gangway and thwarts is made of plywood. The best way may be to replace them by normal wood. I relied on the ones provided by Corel. I stained them mahogany to cover the plywood character a bit. Next step is building the hatch coamings.
  22. Meanwhile I have tested other varnishes and oils on walnut pieces. Finally, I found one on acrylic basis and tried it on part of the hull sanded. In the photo below, the glossy varnish (Nelson) can be seen on one side and on the other side the acrylic one (water diluted/surrounded by painter tape) on the other side . I will put the ship aside and have another glance on it.
  23. When starting the Reale, I shortly hesitated to paint it to get nearer to the orignal one. It is probably a never ending discussion if wood ships should be painted or not. I am a fan of the wood structure, thus I will probalby stain only the plywood pieces.

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