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Clark

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Everything posted by Clark

  1. Hi Frank, fun is garanteed. I look forward to follow your progress. It is really an impressive ship, isnt i? Clark
  2. Hi Frank, I am not as experienced as Hubac s Historian. But just on logical grounds: I would draw the ropes for the middle carriage the other way around the wheels: outside in. At present the ropes get in close contact with the carriage wich would damage them (when the ship would really be in fight). Clark
  3. Hi Frank and Hubac's Historian, thanks a lot for helping me. The painting is really helpful in building the ship but unfortunately it is probably not the one described by Vitz. It can be read that the starboard side is shown and not the portside. Moreover it is probably a drawing and not a painting. Meanwhile I figured out the the text copied is part of a thesis written at the Universtity of Duesseldorf (near the river Rhine, near France??). I will try to get in contact with the University to figure out the sources. Can you send me the link, where the painting of the Paris Museum can be looked at? There is no accdess via the website of the museum at least the way I tried. Thanks a lot Clark
  4. I am going to join the club of modelers constructing or having constructed the ship. Frankly speaking, their construction and kit reports (gimo, Bender, fmodair, schiffebastler) urged me to order the kit. Mainly the very sophisticated report of Frank (fmodair) increased my wish to build the ship. I do not have the skills of the others mentioned. Thus this blog is mainly to those who rely on the material provided by Corel. Content of the kit is well described in construction reports of the club members. Most of the material seems to be of good quality but I am already wondering how to amend the plywood pieces. As mentioned I will probably manly rely on the material provided by Corel. However I like to see the wood structure of the models implying that I will use color paint very rarely. We will see. It seems to me that although Corel put some efforts in the written instruction manual, there is still enough space for improving. False keel is a triple one and made of six pieces which have to be glued overlapping to produce a keel three layers thick. To keep the keel straight I fixed and clipped the parts of the keel flatly on a shell with a metal rail below the keel pieces. Since the lower line of the keel is deflecting, small wood wedges were put under the bow and stern side of the keel to get the distance from the metal rail (arrow). The get the three overlaying pieces in the correct position, small wood stripes 4x4 mm were put into the spaces for the frames/bulkheads. After gluing the keel, frames were dry (!) fitted by filing the slots of the keel and filing the slots of the frames. Bottom side and deck side of the keel was treated with wood filler and sanded. Frames, false deck, the pieces of the true keel and other supports were dry fitted. Some minor sanding had to be done for this. Next step will be tapering the keel and adusting the frames.
  5. Hi Frank, I have inserted part of text I found above. Vitz refers to Belin and Goussier as the artists behind the painting/drawing. Any idea? Clark
  6. Frank, via Google I found an article of "Florian Vitz" describing a picture/painting of La Reale (in German) with a lot of details but not the cannons. Do you know what/where the picture/painting can be found? It might help with the cannon question. Clark
  7. Frank, it looks perfect. But I am still wondering if the carriages have to be secured differently (as in other ships) depending on the status of the ship: in fight or on trip. (Do not know if thats the correct english expression, hope you know what I mean.) Thus you may have to decide how you want to present your ship later on. Clark
  8. Thanks a lot for the hints. I will contact them. I do not expect to get rich by selling the models but I - as probably all the others - would appreciate a person who recognizes the work and lifeblood spent. By the way, may wife and me started to get rid of all the things we collected but never touched or looked at during the last years. We found a lot to give away but the ships were never in question. Nevertheless, the space needed for the ships grew and urged us to think a bit further. As far as I remember, there also some guys who founded a private museum just to show their models. Lucky ones. Regarding the models, a lot of my friends (not modellers) are proud when telling me that they bought a really pretty model for less than 100 Euro. Looking at the model it is not only chinese junk. Clark
  9. Although it might not be the correct place to ask it: Did anyone try to sell the boats on ebay. In the past I thought about it since my children are not very eager to keep the collection and our local museum does not have the space. Would be glad if someone can answer and tell the best way to proceed. Clark
  10. Thans Greg for the relief. For heavy sanding, I go outside in to the wind. However is is now a problem in Germany with temperature around 0°C. When sanding greater ares inside I keep the vapour cleaner running which always causes some frowning of my wife. Clark
  11. There is still the question where the cannon balls and the gun powder were stored when loaded from the front deck. I am also wondering how the carriages and canons were handled when they were such tight to each other. Clark
  12. I am not sure but just for logic: Is there also a rig needed to pull the canon back? Enjoying your report. Clark
  13. Thanks for the rapid reply. I have to apologize. I tried the access from another computer one minute ago and it worked. Sorry for vasting time. Again thanks for keeping the wonderful platform running. Clark
  14. Thanks to you all for keeping the site running. I am addicted to the reports. Nevertheless I hope you are right that there will no passports needed. At present I have access to msw only from one computer. Trying to get access from another one is always denied (using correct password of course). Do you have any idea how to get access from various devices? Clark
  15. I finished the built beginning of this year and had also to think a lot about belaying and rigging. Hints for rigging and belaying of the square-rigged sails were found in the book of Lennarth Peterson: “Rigging Period Ship Models: A Step-by-Step Guide to the Intricacies of Square-Rig” Rigging and belaying of lateen sails simply based on logic: How would I do it when I would be the 1st officer. Finally I found that the number of belaying nails and clamps are not sufficient in the Corel plans. I created some additional ones. Clark
  16. Within all the discussions about CAD and precision modelling, I felt a bit old fashioned when trusting the eyes. Clark
  17. Thanks a lot for the excellent and detailed description. Also thanks for ensuring that eyeballing is a proper method. Clark
  18. You should ask Munich Museum to show it. Perfect. I visited Munich Museum some years ago. Is it the big one in the middle? I can only remember ist as a not well restored. Clark
  19. I bought a similar one (model craft) and did some tests on 1.5 - 2mm planks. It works, but you have to soak the planks intensively before. Clark
  20. Thanks for all the replies. Regarding the voltage problem, we have 230 V in Germany. The one shown is 33 Euro. I ordered it. However, I am already facing the problem that the planks I am working with have to be bended in two directions. I will problably start with a longer test perid when the bender has been arrived. Thanks again
  21. Thanks all for the hints and the tips. You convinced me to buy a plank bender. The one of Aeropicola is not available at least in Germany. Does anybody has ever tested the one shown in the picture? Clark

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