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Clark

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Posts posted by Clark


  1. To arrange the benches, I wanted to use the template of the outer platform (named arbalester base by corel). However, the plywood pieces were very slovenly cut by corel. Thus I had to put some effort in sanding them or extending by gluing additional wood strips. May be it would have been much easier to make them new as Frank (fmodair) did. For arranging the benches in line with the outer platform I used a wood piece to keep the angle. 

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  2. Lower planks are glued now and I have started to drill the holes for water outlet. I made some help lines. One line 3 mm distance to the hull to mark the middle of the holes. Rectangular ones to mark the location of the supports. Distance between the rectangular lines was 9.5 mm. Thus, I made a small metal template, outer width 9.5 mm with an inner opening of 6 mm to mark the limits of the holes. For drilling the holes, a driller 0.8 mm was used, wood between the holes was cut and sanded. 6 mm width was marked on the  sander (sanding paper glued on wood piece).

    DSC06033.thumb.JPG.87f47e049654df8d1b38db9c0805eab6.JPGDSC06037.thumb.JPG.acf1c08ad7780d06329e0d36d0a05868.JPGDSC06039.thumb.JPG.1063c0ae0756181907689becc5cd974e.JPGDSC06092.thumb.JPG.5637dc80f9722da60a19540abfc71e84.JPG

    To arrange supports for the lower planks, I started with the first one arranged by a metal strip clamped to the yolks. Gap between the following supports was kept by using a wood block with 7.3 mm thickness

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  3. 20 hours ago, fmodajr said:

    Only one side left to do! Lol!

    From the first photo, it looks like you got the curve of the supports perfectly.

    Nice job Clark!

     

    Frank

    Thanks Frank, when I first read your blog I was astonished that only a limited number of supports can be adapted per day. Now I know what you meant.

    Hope to read further inspiring news in your blog.

    Clark

     


  4. With every new ship fun and effort in rigging increased. Doing the same knots again and again can be very relaxing after a hard day. When I began to build mediterrian ships, the task increased further since the plans and books showing the rigging are limited. Looking in the old paintings is sometimes not helpful. Comparing the rigging plans of Corel and Amatis Xebecs let me suppose that there is still a lot of variation possible.

    Clark


  5. On 5/16/2020 at 12:32 AM, Chuck Seiler said:

        About the Wutender Hund.  According to Chris Coyle, Wütender Hund was the vessel captained by Klaus Störtebeker, the leader of a group of North German privateers that were active at the end of the 14th century.  Wütender Hund roughly translates to “Mad hound” or “Angry dog”.  I will often refer to it as “Wonder Dog”. 

     

        If you look at various paintings and drawings of cogs, as well as more modern replicas, you will see some pretty plain cogs, some with stern castles and some with both fore-castles and stern castles.  The very pronounce castle structures and “fighting top” show that WH was intended for fighting.  Many had a raised stern castle for defense, while also providing a space to operate the ship, allowing more deck space for cargo.

     

     

     

    1616711257_koggeandhound.jpg.cffaeda0f3368fb442eb8df79116f0e6.jpg

     

        The two models (Bremen Kogge and Wutender Hund) show the difference between the trading cog and war cog.  In these two SHIPYARD kits, the hull form is almost exactly alike, as are the parts.  The hull form appears to be based on the same ship that inspired the Roland von Bremen, above.

     

        The “trading cog” was often called into service as a “war cog”.  I am not sure how easy it was to add or remove the stern castle, but the fore-castle appears to be easily added and removed.

     

     

     

    610168933_warringcogs.JPG.c7c143c1950ddfba27fe6907daa8b706.JPG

     

     

    BATTLING COGS or THE FIELD TRIP DURING TH LAST NRG CONFERENCE...you make the call.  This shows the value of the higher castles.

     

     

    Hi Chuck

    I was happy to find your blog. Klaus Störtebecker is still a hero in Germany at least at the coast line. As far as I know, the ship is originally named "Toller Hund" : "Toll" has two meanings: mad and great. Klaus Störtebecker was both. 

    Clark


  6. As suggested by the Corel manual, I started with the two middle supports #82 and #83 (Corel plans), which are at the lowest point of the deck line. To get them in a vertical position I made a holder with a 1.5 mm slot (= thickness of plywood) and 8 mm width of the vertical wood strips   (= distance between the supports). I made also some wood pieces 8 mm wide to keep and control the distances between the supports. Additional supports were added between #82 and #83 and the yokes.

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    Further supports were inserted between the middle ones and the yokes.

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  7. Regarding the bitts for fixation of the foremast; I had a discussion with Frank (fmodair) some time ago. Pictures of La Reale and some of other galleys show that there is a deviation  of 5-7 degree of the foremast from the vertical axis due to the special handling of the lateen sails.

    Vormast.jpg.25a4fac877f4dc8b56bad92f83f8c96f.jpg

     It declines toward the bow. In the Corel plans, the foremast is shown in a vertical  position.

    I decided to follow the paintings and drawings. To follow them, the deviation of the foremast of the vertical axis has also to be reflected in the tube to be drilled into the bitts. I have tested the decline with some wood pieces simulating the bitt and the foremast.

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    Moreover, I do not believe that the bitts were strong enough to withstand the enormous power of the big sail, i.e., the foremast had to fixed at the keel line. Such a fixation is also shown in the Mondfeld plan of the galley La Dracene. Thus, I made surroundings for the foremast fixation.

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    Next step is adapting the supports for the oars., which is probably the most difficult part

     

     


  8. 23 hours ago, fmodajr said:

    Clark,

    Thanks for your input. I am stuck using acrylics. I have to match the red and the blue that I am already using on my model. I will give it a try using the techniques shown to me from Michael,  Mark and Grandpa Phil. 

    Thanks,

    Frank

    Some recommend to mix the paint with PVA to get an uneven result. I am eager to read the news on your post.


  9. When building the hatch coamings, I put the lids at a higher position than recommended in the Corel plans. Regarding the coamings for the anchor line, it should probably only protect the hole in the deck from water flooding in. Nevertheless, the rope would be damaged if pulled along the edges.  Thus I added a protection. The hatch coamings had to be tapered due to the sloping deck line in the line from the middle to the hull. It is necessary to keep the upper line of the hatch coamings horizontal since the footplates of the oarsmen will be attached later.

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    To put the coamings in place, ship had to fixed. Hull was protected with painter tape. Ship was put in the slipway, levelled again and fixed by balsa/foam supports. Since I was afraid that the long stem post might get broken (it is really a long and small hull), it was covered by balsa pieces.

    grafik.png.83c3bc261b2ff3fe3d6da62653263cc1.png

     


  10. On 5/1/2020 at 1:30 PM, fmodajr said:

    Hi Clark,

     

    You are making some nice progress.

    Model looks terrific so far!

     

    Frank

    Thanks a lot, Frank. Did you have the chance to get back to the bench? I am eager to read news of your progress. Your report is more than inspiring.

    Clark


  11. I decided to reseal the hull. I sanded it (grade 120, 180, 320) which took me about one week. It is really not the job I like.

     

    After sanding, I sealed it with the water based diluted (~20% H2O) acrylic varnish.

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    Corel material of the supports for the middle gangway and thwarts is made of plywood.  The best way may be to replace them by normal wood. I relied on the ones provided by Corel. I stained them mahogany to cover the plywood character a bit.

    grafik.png.9e7dc4be53972425622491869fd99d23.png

     

     

    Next step is building the hatch coamings.


  12. Meanwhile I have tested other varnishes and oils on walnut pieces. Finally, I found one on acrylic basis and tried it on part of the hull sanded. In the photo below, the glossy varnish (Nelson) can be seen on one side and on the other side the acrylic one (water diluted/surrounded by painter tape) on the other side . I will put the ship aside and have another glance on it.

    grafik.png.72f4f555b9914040be34c05091ca13b2.png


  13. 19 hours ago, GrandpaPhil said:

    The blue and white with the gold fleur de lis was difficult to paint when I built the Heller version.  I am still going to try it when I build my replacement for it in a couple of years.

    When starting the Reale, I shortly hesitated to paint it to get nearer to the orignal one. It is probably a never ending discussion if wood ships should be painted or not.  I am a fan of the wood structure, thus I will probalby stain only the plywood pieces.

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