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Posts posted by Clark

  1. 7 hours ago, safemaster said:

    Hi Clark,

    I love the work you're doing on this, the lack of color gives this a whole different look that's quite pleasing to the eye👍


    Michael D.

    Hi Michael, I am also following your blog. It is a different approach. I especially like that you show the sails secured. When I get to that point, I'll ask a few more questions on your blog. I assume, however, that you are then finished with your Reale.
    Continue to have fun

  2. 3 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

    True, but I've never had one break on me like surgical scalpel blades are won't to do. There is an advantage to the heavier gauge metal of hobby knife blades. By the way, surgeons will generally only make a couple of cuts with a scalpel before exchanging it for a new sharp one. Scalpels aren't designed to hold their really sharp edges for any more than about that.


    It's odd, but nobody's mentioned sharpening hobby knife blades. A fine sharpening stone, or a leather or MDF stropping wheel charged with green polishing abrasive, or even some fine sandpaper, will put a new razor-sharp edge on a hobby knife blade in seconds. I have a very old Arkansas sharpening stone which was designed for sharpening old fashioned straight razors. I use it to keep a sharp edge on my hobby knives. It works fine.

    Sharpening works quite well when using the sandpaper tools delivered by proxxon.  I got both needles and blades  sharp enough .  There is also a rotating sharpening stone available by proxxon I usually start with the blades.


  3. 1 hour ago, wefalck said:

    I have three of them in different sizes, but mainly use them on my milling machines.


    Fixing them to the base of the PROXXON-drill could be somewhat inconvenient, but the original vice could not be screwed down either. Not sure about the current arrangements.


    The 1" vices have four holes on the sides tapped M4 and two at the bottom. I cut two pieces of small angle iron or aluminium the length of the vice and drilled holes to match the four tapped holes. The angles were screwed to the sides and had a number of holes in the horizontal part with which it can be screwed to machine tables.


    The larger vice have horizontol through holes (I think 6 mm) for a round rod that goes through the lug with which the moveable jaw is screwed down. I made a 6 mm rod and cross-drilled it with 3 mm to take some long M3 screws with which to tie down the vice onto machine tables. The vices also have to round notches at the end for simple hold-down clamps.


    If you think of getting one of the 1" vices, make sure you get one with the shallow recess on top of the jaw - this comes very handy for small pieces. The others don't seem to come with this feature.


    BTW the vices may also run under the name of EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining) vices, where they are used to hold the electrodes.


    I didn't check, whether RDG Tools do have these vices, but thought that I bought one of mine from them. But I may be wrong, as this must have been some 15 years ago.

    Hi Dave, hi wefalk

    Using the vice of proxxon makes drilling and even sanding really easy but I would agree that fixing to the drilling table is a bit challenging in that you have to be sure to adjust it rectangular. I put a long strip (100cm) in the vice (MS4), adjusted the drilling table (KT70) rectangular to the edge of the work disk and measured and adjusted the deviation of the strip of the edge of the working disk. When no deviation was visible, screws were tightened.


  4. I have started preparing the foremast. As always this takes sone time. Progress is not immediately visible.

    Upper end of the mast is quadratic. I used the table saw to get it in shape. After making it quadratic I bevelled the mast using the “lathe” described above. Lower end of the mast has to be shaped octogonal and bevelled. I glued a wooden trim on a base with 3° deviation to form a guide bar and adjusted it to a disc sander. To get the mast rotated by 45° and in agreement with the quadratic end, I fixed the quadratic end of the mast in a small vice.



    Before adjusting the masts, I prepared all the lines of shrouds and back stays. I found it difficult to fix the toggles. Thus, I drilled holes with smaller diameter than the middle of the toggles to put ~1/3 of the toggles in it. Upper end of the toggles end was fixed by a trim. It made handling of the toggles much easier. All lines were pulled through bee wax. Racks were also added before gluing the masts in place at this stage.



  5. I have installed the midway planks. Just behind the main mast, the lines of the haleyard of the main yard run through the planks. To place the holes in the midway planks correctly, I mounted a preliminary main mast and attached the lines of the haleyard to it. I also installed most of the lines later needed for handling the yards (tackles etc.). I thought it would be difficult to attach them when masts and shrouds are added. The lines were pulled through bee wax (to get a slight stiffness) and carefully flamed (to remove the “hairs”). Next step will be preparing the masts.DSC07353.thumb.JPG.a6e736cd48c4c086b6ff9b835989fb5c.JPGDSC07354.thumb.JPG.b4b1c40804875b2cd9181e6b205e4e93.JPG



  6. 14 hours ago, Chuck said:

    You are welcome....I try my best.   Today was crazy so I wanted to make sure I got the orders packed and out the door quickly.  I broke a record today....I know you guys have been waiting for two weeks but it was nuts.   I did the same amount of sales over the last 10 hours that I would normally do in two weeks.  So you guys certainly didnt look elsewhere for parts.  Thank you so much for waiting.  This of course means that I am out of stock on so many things again.  So please have patience as I make the stuff as quickly as possible.....



    I am glad to be able to post the order. Thanks a lot that you "tried your best". Probably more if possible.


  7. 40 minutes ago, Chuck said:

    They are now in stock.  I made a bunch of them last week and they will be available when I open.  I am also making some barge kits right now but I dont know if they will be done for Monday.


    If not certainly early next week.  

    Hi Chuck,

    glad to see your response. I did not want to put pressure on you.


  8. 8 hours ago, fmodajr said:


    Small update.

    Slow, but steady progress!


    There are 11 swivel guns to be installed. Six on the starboard side and five on the port side.

    The mounts (posts) for the swivel guns are made.



    One of the swivel gun posts installed.



    5 of the posts shown here. On the port side, where the cooking station will be, a swivel gun is omitted, thus 5 on the port side.



    In between all the railing posts and gun posts, there are 1mm x 2mm filler trim pieces installed.






    Work has begun on the davits for the launch boat.

    I will be modifying the davits to look a little bit more like those shown on the wonderful "La Fleur de Lis" plan by Gerard Delacroix.

    Photos to follow soon.


    Thanks for checking in!





    glad you are prooceeding. I am not sure if you are running into the same problem as I did. Are you aware that there should be enough space between the swivel guns and the lower railing?


  9. After mounting the swivel guns, I adapted the spars later necessary to support the stern drape (I still hesitate whether to put on the drape or not, it will cover a lot). The cross bar was made out of a tapered 3mm spar. I used my old   “lathe” made out of a drill machine on one side and a ball bearing on the other side. Opening of the ball bearing was minimized by a small spar.  It is not very sophisticated but I have used it very often before to taper masts and yards. It worked.  Tapered bar was glued on a carved support put on the arch construction.



  10. 21 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:


    With the caveat that I've never done this, I'll suggest that the Cricut (pronounced "cricket") home vinyl cutting machine is designed to solve the problem of small scale lettering transfers for modeling purposes. My daughter has one and loves it. It seems to be "a girl thing" as their marketing is directed to crafty "soccer moms," and I haven't seen the Cricut system mentioned in this forum at all as yet. I does seem to be becoming quite popular and the results it produces are excellent. While there is a plethora of "clip art" images for use with the machine, one can also generate their own with any computer graphics program or word processing font. I'd be interested to know if any modelers are using it and how they like it.






    Just browsed through the offers. There are some remarks that the cuts are not very precise. I would also be interested in any answers. Is it possible to design and print ornaments on thin (~0.5mm) wooden planks?

  11. On 1/25/2021 at 10:54 PM, chris watton said:

    Thank you very much! Jim has done a superb job in putting them together. And to think, a year ago he hadn't touched any wooden kit for years!

    They do, they are my US distributors.

    Pinnace kit arrived yesterday (ordered 10 d ago). Looks perfect. Recommendation to all not only to those who like details.


  12. 2 hours ago, fmodajr said:

    Hello Ogun,

    I hope all is well.

    Yes, I have the instructions and parts list. 

    Give me a day or so to clean it up. (I penciled thru all the parts that I have installed in the parts list and crossed out all the directions I have completed). I will erase my pencil markings and get the instructions to you.

    The instructions come in English, French, and what I believe is German. You want the English instructions correct?





    Hi Frank,

    I have sent the manual to Ogun already.


  13. 11 hours ago, OGUN KUNT said:


    Excellent Job.

    I need your help. I bought this model's plans. But i could not find Instruction Manual and Part List. If you have Instruction Manual and Part List can you share me? I do not want Model Plans. I need only Instruction Manual and Part List.



    May be I can help. Both is with me. Please send me a short note. However, manual description does not help a lot. Better to follow the blogs.


  14. 10 hours ago, glbarlow said:

    I agree, but isn’t that what this thread was becoming. Either way, I’m good. 

    I did not want to start a discussion about Brexit. I only wanted to express my hope thant we can rely on you, Chris, in the near and distant future. Pinnace was ordered yesterday. I am eager to start.


  15. Cooking box is now ready. I added some ash and wood remnants from our fireplace. Since I was also wondering how the soup may be distributed, I put a bucket rack aside. Furthermore, I could not imagine how soup and fire could be handled. Therfore,   I glued a walking plank on one side of the cooking box. A further question still bothers me: Are two pots with a diameter of ~60 cm really enough for ~500 hungry man working hard.




    While the glued ash of the cooking box was drying, I started to think about the swivel guns and I have noticed that the supports I have already mounted were much to high for an adequate handling. Thus I started to dismount them and to shorten them. Fortunately, wood is very patient. Picture shows a supportDSC07266.thumb.JPG.1f44d1f91df393055c2e9ff3616e9391.JPG already shortened.


  16. 4 hours ago, maaaslo said:

    you might be still shipping to the continent Chris, but customs charges that your customers are going to be hit with are no scaremongering. they are a harsh reality. or as us remainers liked to call it: Project Reality. i hope you can still continue posting to the EU. some retailers have already said they wont be doing so. 

    it would be a loss to the modelling world if you went out of business due to the customers sending goods back. some retailers are already feeling the effects very bad.

    Thats what was also reported to me but I hope that this will not affect the interrelationsuip between the modellers like Pablo, Paul or Pov.


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