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mtdoramike

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    Central Florida
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    Model building, metal detecting

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  1. I was finally able to glass the inside and outside of the Crockett hull. The rain and humidity let up enough for a few days I finally got to it. I'm doing some finishing touches to the main cabin as well as cutting out the stuffing tube slots in the hull for the drive shafts. I decided to cut out a couple of the solid frames toward the front of the hull so that I can slide some ballast weight towards the front if needed.
  2. Absolutely gorgeous work on the Notman. This is an orphaned kit I'm working on as time permits that I have had to replace just about all of the work the previous owner did. I'm following your build intently. I love the blue trimming of the deck.
  3. I agree Lou, The twisting of the hull was a major facture for me when I planked it.
  4. I started putting the deck house together while I'm waiting for the weather to cool off a bit before I start fiber glassing the hull.
  5. I have finished the hull planking which was non-eventful, but I did use scrap balsa pieces and added it to the sides of the frames to give more of a seat for the plank. I also skim coated the exterior of the hull with bondo, which really wasn't needed since the planking went on very nicely, but rather to give additional strength to the balsa planking and also to add a bit more weight to the hull since it is quite light and the narrowness of the hull along with quite a bit of super structure above the deck. I'm figuring it will require quite a bit of weight to keep it from wanting to pitch to much and to be more stable. The instructions call for 2oz cloth for the exterior of the hull. I have 2oz fiberglass cloth as well as 4oz cloth. I usually prefer to work with 2oz cloth over the 4oz cloth because the 2oz drapes better and a bit easier to work with than the 4oz. But, I like the 4oz for more rigidity than the 2oz.
  6. To me, the crane top for the barge is great, but that wood chip topper for the barge is really something.
  7. You can see the key in the upper left portion of the picture. This key is used to lower and raise the crane by sticking it into the sides of the crane housing and turning the key manually.
  8. I had to fix the spool, the left spool had broken off when it had it's accident. I drilled out the center of the spool and inserted a piece if steel rod in the center of the spool, which now holds the spool in place and is actually functional. It is a real guessing game on working on this beast since I don't have any type of diagram as to how it goes together. I had to cut all the threading for the dozens of pullies just to be able to work on it. The fun part will be re-stringing it.
  9. I've been doing a little work on the Manitowoc Crane, trying to fix what is broken and at least get it back together in one piece. Don't know how functional it will be when I get finished with it, but will have to see.
  10. You are right about that Spark. I have started the planking and am very mindful of that knuckle.
  11. Here is a picture of the crane when it was setup in all it's glory, before the accident.
  12. I agree Joe, but some times we also have the burden of being at times brutally honest with family members who ask that you help in disposing of their loved one's creations. I have had to be the bearer of honesty when asked to appraise models and even though I have tried to be as diplomatic as possible, it still comes as a shock to realize that the quality just isn't there, especially when they think the model(s) are museum worthy.
  13. OK, I have finally started building the Crockett. This is a long model. One thing I noticed right away is the length of this model versus the width meaning it will be quite top heavy.
  14. I know what you mean Bob, but I don't find them, they find me. It's kind of like the unique searching out the unique. I love a challenge and trying to get this crane set backup and together and hopefully functioning again will be a hell of a challenge since the manufacture I believe is out of business, no plan sheets to diagrams of it that I know of. I'll note that the wood chip pile was actually created by getting foam board, building it up to the height needed, then cutting it down to form a hill. Randy then used spray glue on the foam board and piled on the wood chips that he got from a wood lathe turning class. The pictures don't do it justice, it looks awesome.
  15. I met with Randy, (I won't post his last name), he is a not too local model builder today to take possession of a Seaspan wood chip barge as well as numerous other items, plans, templates of his past builds. He has retired from the ship modeling hobby and the hobby is less for it because he is in my expert opinion one of the best model builders I have ever met. I consider myself to be above average in building skills, but he is way about my skill set. So when I had the honor of meeting with him today, I was a bit tongue tied and awestruck. I could have talked to him for days and probably still be as awestruck as I was this afternoon. I hope for the modeling hobby he has a change of heart down the road. The Seaspan Barge is 4 feet long and actually has holes cut into the bottom of the hull to allow it to self ballast using water WOW! It also has a second interchangeable deck, which has a crane on it as a transport hauling barge. The crane was damaged sometime back, so I will have to see about fixing it to bring it back to all of it's glory. A R/C Tug boat owner should love to have this setup.

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