TomJonas
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I apologize fore that I never submitted any photos during the building, but now my Vasa (DiAgostini - ModelSpace) is ready for the rigging. I hope it will be finished before Christmas.
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Thankyou! I'll skip the CA-glue. The knots are no problems, but sometimes the line between the knots is slacking and not tight. But that is only inexperience - have to be more careful.
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I am sorry. A bit of confusion here because of a language problem. The Swedish Word for "strip" is "list". Thanks for your tips! I will try again. -
I am building Di Agostini's Vasa from Model Space. For most of it no problem, but now I am trying to line the cannonports with lists. Absolutely impossible! They all fall into the black void around the ports There is hardly 1-2 mm of the hull where the lists should be glued. Nothing for me, I have to thick fingers, can't press them aginst the hull to get them stuck!. So far I have skipped the lists, unless you have a brilliant solution
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I am building Di Agostini's Vasa. For the ratlines they suggest that CA-glue should be used instead of the usual knots. And paint it black to cover the glueblobs. What do you think?
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I am building the Di Agostini Vasa and am waiting for pack no 11. This is the second time I've waited several months for my next pack - very frustrating! And I apologize very much for not posting any photos. I will do that as soon as I can! Whatever you do - don't paint the ship in that disgusting brown colour! I stained the hull with an oil-based stain in teak colour. I chose that because I liked the quite yellow colour - reminded me of the model in the Vasa museum. But the hull is not that yellow. I painted it twice and got a brown colour which I really like. I imagened that the oak in the hull must have been heavily tarred to resist the saltwater. I did not manage to line the cannonports with the small lists as suggested. Impossible to glue them, most of them fell into the dark void behind the hull! There is one thing I need some comments on. The suggestion is to use CA-glue for the ratlines. And paint it black to get rid of the glueblobs. I have never seen that Before. What are your suggestions?
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I think the colours of the hull and decks you used are very good! What colours of the stains did you use for that? The painted version according to diAgostini is a great dissappointment!
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Model Shipway Ratline tool
TomJonas replied to fnkershner's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Yes, but not too much! -
Model Shipway Ratline tool
TomJonas replied to fnkershner's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
1/65. Modelspace/deAgostini VASA -
Model Shipway Ratline tool
TomJonas replied to fnkershner's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I ask because I find it difficult to get the ratlines perfectly straight. There is often an unrealistic sagging or bending of ratlines. I imagine it would be an advantage not to use a too thin or flexible rigging thread. Perhaps some stiffness would be an advantage? -
Model Shipway Ratline tool
TomJonas replied to fnkershner's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
A general question. Which rigging thread would you recommend for shrouds and ratlines? But perhaps there is no significant difference. -
I am building Corel's Amphion and discovered a substantial problem. There are a lot of 3 mm blocks in the rigging. The holes in these block are very small. It is impossible to use the rigging thread included in the kit. I bought 0.15 mm thread, but still to big compared with the holes. I even tried sewing thread (probably cotton) and the diameter seems to be even smaller than 0.15 mm, but still impossible. Women usually have more skill in puting thread in a needle eye, so I asked my wife to try. No success. She even thought the idea of putting sewing thread through these tiny holes was ridiculous and impossible. So what shall I do? Some sort of plastic material would probably be the best, but where can I find the small sizes?
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Good Evening, This subject has probably been discussed before, but I ask again anyway. -Is it suitable to paint die casts iron ornaments with acrylic paints for artists? I am planning to build Vasa, which have hundreds of sculpture and it would be nice to mix colours on my palette. -I suppose the colours need thinning (with water?) to avoid getting them too shining. -The metal sculptures need a metal priming Before any paint will stuck. What brand would you recommend and is there any special technique required? -Is a gold colour available among the acrylic paint? Thankyou!
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Too much gold-shining brass
TomJonas replied to TomJonas's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
What a model you have built! I am planning to order Royal Caroline and your blog will be an excellent instruction book. Two questions: 1. Is it possible to get pear and boxwood from UK? I fear the postage to Sweden will be much higher from the US. 2. And is pear easy to bend and shape for the second layer of the hull? -
Perhaps this has been discussed before, but ornaments in brass made to look like shining gold often shine too much! So, any ideas how to make them just a bit more dull, and perhaps slightly dirty in deaper parts?
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I once built Unicorn, or rather almost built it. Just a few finishing details of the rigging was all that was left, when I suddenly stopped. Mostly because we moved to an other house, and I was fed up with the ship. But this was perhaps 15-20 years ago. Now I am retired and have som plans. Taking up oil-painting again, join the bridge club, take part in guided tours in nature, take a course with my Stratocaster. And build ship models. I have studied Model Ship World for a couple of weeks now, and seen most of what the market has to offer. But I must say Unicorn will probably be my choice once again. It was fairly easy to build and will not take five years to finish. So I follow all Unicorn-logs with great interest. Many of you make interesting re-designs, mostly regarding the decks. So...keep on rocking!
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maltbyguy! I will not use the brass sculptures but checked on internet how to paint brass. Tamiya Metal Primer seems to be worth a try to get the paint stuck on brass. Several other methods were suggested, most of them with various primers.
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Hej Matti I wonder how much I actually will use from the Corel kit. The plastic sculptures in the BB kit are considerably better made with very good details. The brass sculptures in Corel are very crude with bad details. And painting the plastic seems to be easier as acrylic paint could be used, painting brass seems to be much more complicated. If I had more mahogany or walnut strips, I could do a second layer on the hull, but unfortunately not enough left. We will see whenever I reach the rigging phase, maybe Corel could be of use. At least the colour of the rigging is more accurate rope-like in Corel. In the BB it is very pale and almost white and will have to be stained. Perhaps with a cup of tea?
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Matti! Everything looks great on your Vasa! I am too lazy to start a blog with all the photographywork, but my Vasa is progressing. Soon finished planking the deck and will start with the hull. I have ordered stains in mahogany, walnut and oak and hope I will get some colours right. But the bottles were ridiculously small, so I will probably have to visit a painting shop. What brand of stain did you use? Herdins bets?? Had a look at the sculptures, and realized painting them will be a challenge. Did you use brushes even for the smallest details? Or have you invented some other tools??
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Excellent Matti! One of my cannon ports was at the level of a frame (spant) so I had to carve a bit on it. I am planning to use my Corel Vasa hull as a jig for bending the planks. Hope it will work. When you painted the figures did you dilute the acrylic paint to get it thinner? And how did you manage to hold these small things? (Perhaps shown in your blog)
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Matti! I envy your patience and accuracy! I feel that I am too impatient sometimes. I struggle with the interior of the cannon ports. Did you paint anything red in the interior lining of the ports or are they only stained?
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You once told us about your cat. Our kitten, a 7-month-old Norwegian Forest cat (norsk skogskatt) have twice tried to take bite in the support for the bow sprit. Fortunately without success. I suppose the wood smells good for a cat too.
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I have been thinking about the almost triangular deadeyes too. Good, now you've showed that it is possible to sand the blocks with a good result. I studied your excellent sculptures that you made in wood. But what about clay? There are clay for children which you bake in the oven. Probably easier to sculpture, though I have no idea if it is good enough for small sculptures. But this would perhaps be too unorthodox and almost like cheating?
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Matti! Of course you're right, the deck planks are OK. I checked again on your first photos. No idea why I thought they looked too wide.
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My model is coming soon. Now I have to get some stuff from the Hobby shop (Clas Ohlson) and make a jig for my building. They have a lot of things and I think I have figured out how to make it. I suppose some sort of Dremel-tool will be needed, but I hardly ned that fancy stuff, they have cheaper variants. I was thinking about the ironbolts in the hull. The brass nails are definitely wrong colour, but the dimension is OK. So the nails would be perfect with the right colour (I hope there are some in the Billing Boats box). And I found a way to make bronzed or blackened brass in a book about modelshipbuilding. Substances called Brass Black, Brass Brown, Pewter Black and so on could be used. Could be used for all things made of brass, like cannons for example. I found it here:http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1167-using-blacken-it/ Then there's the issue of making treenails in the hull and deckplanking. Round toothpicks perhaps? By the way, are the planks on the deck in an accurate scale? They look a bit wide, but my Eyes could be wrong. And how should the caulking be made? A fairly soft pencil seems to be the easiest way. I think you stated in a previous post that the planks were put there at random without a regular pattern. Had a look at stains. Ljus valnöt (light walnut) might be a good ground for the hull, perhaps with a coat of diluted grayish Acrylic. And sanding in between. Have to experiment here. The deck also need some staining, light oak? http://www.herdins.se/sv/betser/herdins-akta-bets__28
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