Jump to content

Justin P.

Members
  • Content Count

    828
  • Joined

2 Followers

About Justin P.

  • Rank
    Hold Fast!
  • Birthday 05/02/1981

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    PNW
  • Interests
    Bookbinding
    Mapmaking
    Nautical History
    Restoration & Conservation
    Fly-Fishing

Recent Profile Visitors

2,540 profile views
  1. Frame Tests So today I took a crack at cutting some frame components. I am learning a lot... namely, that I need to practice a lot. I fixed the templates to the sheet with an Elmers glue stick to avoid deforming the paper and it seemed the more more easily reversible of the various options. Im trying to fit the pieces between the grain with a mind towards paying careful attention to the most fore and aft frame faces in particular. At the moment Im really just viewing this first frame assembly as a practice piece, and to work out a process and decide how I want the various
  2. Actually no. Im not doing any resawing at all. The Ryobi couldn't handle that type of work unless resawing very small billets. I ordered all my wood pre-milled to the thickness required by the parts laid-out in the Triton plans. There are a few parts, like the Keel and others that are stipulated at a thickness that Ocooch does not provide and so the Byrnes was required to take it down. The band-saw is for cutting out the keel parts from sheet stock. For example, a single side of a frame is 3/16" making the assembled frame a full 3/8" when complete. Therefore I ordered 4" x 24" x
  3. Indeed! I agonized over this bit for a while. I have a scroll saw that Ive never really liked using, and did a number of trial runs before ultimately deciding to go the band saw route. After trying out cutting the frames on a friends saw, I decided the band saw was definitely something I wanted for this build. I didn't invest a lot and picked up a Ryobi 9" bench-top model for about $150. Many people gripe about the quality of this level of saw, but I found that if you spend enough time learning how to properly set one up and investing in a good blade for the right purpose then a cheap
  4. I was recently working on the rudder, and just couldn't get behind it. I think Im getting a bit saturated on this build and need a break. Not from modeling, but perhaps from the type of modeling demanded by Syren. Ive been wanting to dip my toe into more scratch building as well, and have a project that can fit the weird time I have to model when I don't have the focus and stretches of time required by the Syren project in the coming steps. Im also waiting on some bronze sheet that will take some time, and I hate idleness. Im also not the type that can jump ahead effectively and still
  5. Prep. This will be my first wholly scratch built project. Im undertaking this in addition, and as as a distraction, from my longer-term project HMS Syren by Chuck Passaro and Model Shipways. Ive spent quite a lot of time looking over the various build logs, both more recent and those recovered from pre-crash MSW. I had initially wanted to experiment with the more rare woods, but after getting a sense for their availability and expense, I thought it better to stick to the more common woods for this first attempt. While I would have liked to achieve the contrasts that other
  6. In most cases yes. But Titebond sells a type that looks almost exactly like the stuff in that video that is ready to use with no heat. Also, there is nothing to say the person in the video didn't have that jar on a warmer.... Its just a guess, but it looks like hide glue, or maybe "Old Brown Glue," another variant of similar make. '
  7. I don't know about "best" method, but I much prefer blackened brass to painted. Blackening takes some practice and messing around with preparing/finishing to get a good result but is easier than painting I think.
  8. Just looks like a thick hide glue variant to me. Nothing special, and if made for purpose may explain why its in a nondescript bottle.
  9. I don’t know how I missed all this progress! It looks fantastic, you're moving into my favorite part of a build, I love seeing it come together with masts, spars and rigging. Great photography too! Really elevates the build log and illustrates the work when the lighting and background is simple and well done. I really must do something about that myself!
  10. George - Thanks. I think much depends on the curves of your hull. For SYREN, I haven't needed any stealers or to cut any of the plates to triangles. The overlapping of the plates allows one to make gradual adjustments so that they sweep up towards the bow naturally. At the stern, the curvature of the hull is relatively straight and thus the plates simply run aft without much deviation. If you decide to butt plates edge to edge, which I believe would be an inaccurate representation (I am no expert), then you would need to be more calculated with your pattern and would requi
  11. Coppering is 98% done. I still have the rudder to deal with and another few wipe-downs with ethanol but Im happy with it. I learned a lot in the process, and will definitely tackle it differently next time. Not pictured is the finishes and stained false keel and drilled post holes for mounting.
  12. Out of curiosity are you thinking of "Black Cherry" as something different than the standard Cherry that is commonly sold? I see these terms used interchangeably and I'm always curious what folks are thinking when they choose one descriptor over another... My understanding is that Black Cherry and Cherry are the same thing.
  13. Yes... when I said "side business" this is more or less what I meant, too. The Byrnes is well worth it, by far the best tool I own.
×
×
  • Create New...