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About michael101

  • Birthday 12/07/1983

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  1. You must make a clamps up and down for all over the keel , glue the bulkheads then put the clamps on make it straight .. then use the method of mtaylor ! dont push any bulkhead just make the supports to be exact size between the bulkheads then glue the supports from out side ... make sure not to press the bulkheads with the supports !
  2. Hi where exactly you have the warped ? there is a solution for everything ! but need to know before is it in the middle ? bow ? stern? take a picture ..
  3. The second plank its dark walnut do you think the pencil can do the job ?
  4. I think you not need any bulkheads or fillers ... if the ship its a big scale just add supports from one bulkhead to the next , you can see what i have done in my Hms Victory but when you putting the wood supports you must be sure that the keel its straight and the supports are exact without pressing the bulkheads ... Best regards Michael.
  5. Hello there , im almost there.... almost going to work on the second planks of the Hms Victory.. i saw a lot of beautiful and symmetrical caulking for the hull planks in google for model ships .. but i didnt found the methods for them .. i will be more than happy if you will share with me your experience about how to caulk the planks (without The paper methods ..) Best regards , Michael.
  6. Hello there, A few yers ago i bought some blades of 0.5 mm to my Proxxon table saw for germany they are the best blades i ever see ... the point is, the hole of this blades its 10mm and i cant use them for my byrnes tables saw... but i saw that this site selling also blades of 13mm Hole my question is if i can buy them for my byrnes t.s, the byrnes t.s use blades with 1/2 in (12.7mm) so the big question is if 0.3mm will make a problem..: Best regards, Michael. btw here is the link for the german site: https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/deutsch/catalogsearch/result/?q=Sägen
  7. Thank you all ! i have change the blade and everything working amazing !!!!!!!!! now i can say its the best tool i have in my workshop !!!
  8. I didnt understand can you explane more about that ?
  9. Hello Thisthe I dine talk about the blade slot , I took a reference from the channels of the sides I mean there is a channel on the aluminum board and I put the fence exactly flush with the slot of this channel I locked down the front lock then the back but still you can see in the back that the fence is not a straight line withe the back channel … And about the miter of the 90 degrees I’m talking about the slots of the 90 it’s not exact 90 degrees you must do it by the manual screw and can’t trust the pin … i have check the piece that with angle miter it says 91 degrees … ————- Thank you Y.T I saw this video fue days ago
  10. Hello there i bought this saw last year and not had the chance to use the saw until now, now after using the machine I notice that the fence it’s not a straight locking (if you putting the fence against the Channel in one side the. Fence will be flush with the Channel and in the other side it’s a bit out of the line )and also when cutting 90 degrees its not accurate to cut it exact 90 degrees ,it’s about 1degree out of the line (I have check it with caliber ) have you had the same problem? i hope I’m doing something wrong , if not I’m really Disappoint ————————— im editing now my post and after changing the blade all works perfect !!!!! its the best tool in my workshop!!! i dont want to delete the post because maybe all the info below it can help other people🙂
  11. The only problem with the x-acto its the teeth are very big and im not sure if they will cut a clean line on walnut planks of 1mm can someone check it out for me? i mean to try cutting a 1mm walnut plank from the side Bets regards Michael.

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