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About johncole

  • Birthday 09/25/1957

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Santa Rosa, California
  • Interests
    scale modeling

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  1. "In for a penny, in for a pound" Chuck, I'm following this with great interest. I'd also like to be included in the group build if there is still room. Many thanks in advance. John
  2. Tom, Nice build. I have this model in queue for when I'm feeling especially brave (and more skilled). My unsolicited vote for the deck stain is weathered oak. It looks really good to my eyes. John
  3. Shore leave has been cancelled, I'm back to work. I'll post progress as things get done. Next up: Install rat lines John
  4. Everything looks great! You are exactly correct re fairing the filler blocks and bulkheads, it takes some time. Go slow, use a long sanding block at first, rather rough paper (I used 100 grit), and have at it. Once roughed out, fine tune the shape. Important!! Check your progress often! Your eyes can tell the story. Also, you are in a great position to re-profile the bow, if you choose. Study the photos and you'll see what I mean. The little strips under the deck edge will become apparent, I promise. The existing frame stanchions will help form the bulwarks, they have a gentle curve that is shown on the cutaway drawing. These are later cut away. This leaves the bulwarks unsupported. So, the permanent stanchions are somewhat functional, and are glued to the inside of the bulwarks. They also extend thru the deck, and into our added strips underneath. I just felt that the added wood for these permanent stanchions would give more support. Necessary? Not sure... Keep up the great work. John
  5. Here's another good Puritan link: http://america-scoop.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=701:les-photos-de-puritan&catid=67:puritan&Itemid=893〈=en You can scale the parts from the photos. It's not an entirely accurate method, but will give you a nice representation. Hope this helps. John
  6. Thank you Bob and Andy! Yes Andy, bad angle. Looks like I was drinking while installing the mast.. The kit has some (ok, a lot) inaccuracies, and I was able to locate some old pictures online. Mayflower was built immediately following Puritan, so some of her details can be adopted. Study the pictures closely, because these boats changed their sail and furniture setups often. See link: http://www.jsjohnston.org/index.html Also, do a google image search for 'Puritan yacht' I believe there are some bow problems too, the kit likely has the wrong profile. No matter, and I don't mean to sound so critical of Mamoli. It's still a fun build. John
  7. Check out post #1, 6th pic from the top. You'll see the 3/16" sq added under the false deck and between the bulkheads. I'm not sure these were even needed, I just wanted to give the stanchions a bit more to adhere to. I had to take a break from my model due to other obligations, but I'm back at it. Standing rigging continues. Ratlines are next, then on to some sail work. John
  8. Maturin, So sorry for not responding to your q's, but I'm back! Your build is looking great!! I have to say that your bulkhead and deck assembly looks way better than mine did. Keep up the good work. John
  9. I bought my kit in the late '80's, so it's machine cut (routed). I would think the laser cut parts would be more accurate to the drawings? Anyway, I did put together a base board and bonded six small blocks (three pairs of two each) to hold the keel upright and straight. The middle two blocks are set apart a bit wider to accommodate the keel pocket doublers. You may not *need* a keel holder like this because of how the deck is installed. The deck slots key into the bulkheads, and it's important that everything fits well before gluing it down. I did quite a bit of trimming on the deck slots to get the frames to fit correctly. The top of the frames should be beveled too so that the deck lays down against them. One more thing; I added 3/16" sq. hard balsa under the deck edge, between each frame. I did this because later, you will remove the temporary frame stanchions and install the 2x3 permanent stanchions. These will go through the deck and into the balsa for a bit more integrity. I hope this helps. Have you considered starting a build log on your project? Hope you do! John
  10. Please follow along! It was your earlier posting (August I think) that jump started me to build my kit. We probably have the same kits. I elected to try a single planked scheme using bass wood, but the double planked way will also work really well. I was trying my hand at single planking to help develop some skills. Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any Q's. BTW, I'm progressing along with masts and rigging, but I'm having some photo software issues. More soon, I hope. John
  11. Rick, It looks good so far! I believe once the hull is taken away from the molds, it will make more sense. BTW, I bought this model in 1988 (the older yellow box version). I opened the kit, read the plans, and was immediately overwhelmed. I then built another kit that I believed was better suited for my skills, but truth is, I should have done WB instead. This forum is responsible for allowing so many novices the chance to enjoy this hobby, to start their first kit, and then see it through to completion. Just might have a go at my own WB now! John
  12. Some rig fittings have been installed on deck, and now it's official: the boat is named! John
  13. Mast building continues, and I'm ok with the results so far. The boom has an interesting detail that I wanted to simulate. The main sail attachment to the boom used many small steel fittings. The kit plans show a rope spiraled through the sail and around the boom. I would have likely done this too, but I've discovered Johnson's yacht pictures of Puritan and Mayflower. Pictures like these are really a blessing for scale details, but also impart the burden of "doing it right". Below shows my sequence of making them. John

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