Kevin Kenny

In the tropics all untreated wood is subject to damage from dry-wood termites and woodworm damage. I have actually had one of my finished models attacked and had to treat the internal wood with liquid fluid and  then gassed the model and case to kill all insects under the cover.  Liquid termite fluid cannot penetrate painted surfaces while gas penetrates everything but leave no residue and so does not treat. It just kills. So now to make sure that does not happen again i treat all the wooden parts before i paint or apply any finish. 

the joinery really comes up when i added the termite fluid. I can wait to see the rub on poly effect.

The clamps with the long arms  were made by me using some green heart. I had to add sand paper to the ends as they tended to slip. They were easy to make 

The planking patten gives the deck lateral  strength.Greg says that it’s an area where there is a lot of wear caused by the cannons going back and forth. He also says that these deck planks are often changed due to the ware. 

its called anchor stock planking, i suppose as it looks like the top wooden piece or stock of an anchor of the time.

Enjoy the jaz

Just completed, now for the clean up.

One more set of deck planks to go

Apple is really helpful with their new Proxxon chop saw 

Apple has put out a new modeling table saw.

kidding. I have long wanted to upgrade the Preac to roll on its own and to keep all its accessories. I gutted my old Apple pro computer and mounted it on the top. Now looking for another one for the Proxxon chop saw.

It make me feel i should have included these details in my model. Looks great. The good news is that you will not have to include some or the difficult floor planks on the outer edge of the upper deck.

Back at work. 

I went to look at some old tools and came away with a lovely selection of Sphinx drills, centering tools, reamers etcc. 

To simulate corking you can use black paper stuck  between the two planks or in my case i use a soft pencil to colour the joint which makes it look like scale corking. 

I was still getting slipping issues so had to modify the tips by removing the screws and adding sand paper. That solved the problem. Then made up some extenders that lay flat on the deck and allow further reach. Now its doing what i hoped it would do. 

Coming along nicely. I might have softened the edges of the post a bit. It is always a difficult decision as in miniature sometimes it is better to leave them sharp to show the detail. Looking great.

I have developed a new long reach clamp. It is evolving. I added a 2mm allen key bolt at the bottom which made a big difference.

Made a very small angle gauge to measure the angle on each plank. I had made one along  time ago but i guess it was so small it disappeared. The screw came from a broken pair of glasses. 

First set done.

I was able to work out the curve by putting a french ruler on the previous plank and then transfer this to the new one.

Thats what i have been doing. Got the port side done but was wondering if there was a better way to do this. Its a real pain in the butt.  Ill tackle the starboard side tomorrow.. Once i get  the first layer in the curves can be replaced with straight lines which will be mush easier to fit.

Any advice for shaping these upper deck planks???? Particually at the bow and stern where the .plank is curved on the inside.