bridgman
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Everything posted by bridgman
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The wobble blade method of cutting dados has been pretty much abandon by full sized woodworkers for all of the above objections. It's a cheap method compared to the preferred method stacked blades to obtain the desired width, which is more accurate and results in a better finish of the dado. The stacked blades have a smaller diameter, fewer teeth a larger gullets for better material removal. MicroMarks supplying accessories for their "doll house saws". Bridgman {bellow zero} Bob
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Use the existing deck as a pattern, make a temporary pattern from paper, card stock, whats avaiable that's easy to work with. Insert pattern and trim as need to lay flat. Transfer final shape to deck and make any final adjustments. Bridgman Bob
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Boerscht has realy crafted a beautiful and finally crafted model, and has moved on to the world of larger models! Unfortunately, the Amati kit, and others, are inaccurate in the depiction of J class yachts and other America Cup racers. The Midest Products kit, 2003, is much closer to realaty. The Endeavour''s owner T.O.M. Sopwith, aiecraft designer, had all Endeavour's rigging repalced with stranded wire, and the "latest" high tech electronics installed. Most o fthe deck layout is close except for the brass hand rails at the deck edge, they would have been some type of wood. These were competive racers where money was no object, Endeavors hull was made of steel. I had a similar problem in building the Mamoli kit of the 1885 cup racer, Puritan, where the entire deck furniture had to be reseadched and replaced. A beautiful model Boerscht. Bridgman Bob
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Beware of the "doll house table saws"! If you have any experience with any full sized table saw you will be appalled with the sloppy fitting of their parts fences , miter gauges for example.. Buy one if you are up to work arounds to make them do what you want! Been there done that. Bridgman Bob
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MS Gunboat Philadelphia Eyebolt/Ringbolt Washers
bridgman replied to George in MN's topic in Wood ship model kits
Confronted with similar fabrication question on my 1:50 scale Puritan, I fell back on my local Ace hardware, more out of curiosity than any real expectation. Searching thru the metric hardware bins found 1.6mm diameter washers of stainless steel. Good size match and were able to solder to eye bolts. No shipping costs or waiting, and able to pick out the ones I thought were the best. Bridgman Bob -
The features Roger mentions are critical for proper and useful operation of a band saw, even more so than motor power. They will permit setting up the saw correctly and allow for accurate usage. Bridgman Bob
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Usually for anchoring situations, chain was used next to the anchor to take the potential of damage from lying on the bottom. The rest of the rode would have been hemp to absorb and flex with the strain shock loads. Photos show the anchor on deck where the chain is fasten to it. Good point about Bluenose being a "racing schooner", probably would not have the anchor chain on board during a race. Bridgman Bob
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Wire rigging for 1885 Puritan by Mamoli
bridgman replied to bridgman's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Steve Thanks for the tip on YKL and Gutermann, unaware of those colors. Should be easier to work than bead wire! Bridgman Bob -
Copper powder is a component of modern day bottom paint. It is mixed into the binder before the paint is applied. The power is a fine as face power, and I still have tools that are stained by it, doesn't wipe off. A common component of Interlux bottom paints, don't know if it's sold separately. You might have to haunt the boat yards this spring looking for a possible sample. Bridgman Bob
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Kit instruction for 1:50, 1885 Puritan call for o.5mm "metal plait" material for shrouds and stays. Material that came with kit looks like a braided wire, gray color, flat, and less than a millimeter wide. Have not worked with this type of material for rigging not sure how to make end terminations at mast, dead eyes and other terminations. Material is pliable and twists easily, but not sure how to finish it off neatly. Also looked at beading wire of similar diameter as it is pliable and easily knotted and available. Suggestions, recommendations would be helpful! Or, I just may revert to non-metallic material. Bridgman Bob
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John: Still struggling to finish my Puritan, how did you handle the rigging, plans, plans call for "o.5mm metal', I've never worked with material and am looking for methods, procedures to do so. Came across some beading wire of various sizes, that is actually stranded and flexible enough to knot. My be easiest to revert to usual fiber material. Bridgman Bob
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Mr. Bean: Translation from my Mamoli Puritan kit: OTN=brass, CO=hemp rope{?}, NO= walnut. The instructions lists 22 other codes. Cross checked with my instruction for my America kit and they are the same. Instructions are printed on the inside of the folder that held the drawings mines in taters, but mostly usable. Plans require close inspection as they contain details not mentioned in the directions. Found the kit enjoyable and resulting in a nice model. I cheated by having my sails sown by a quilter friend, she didn't like the supplied material! Bridgman Bob
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Bob: Thanks for the surgical knot tying video, just whatI need for fastening 2 to 5 mm blocks. Bridgman Bob
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The next time you visit your friendly dentist ask him if he has any of those micro files they use on root canals. They come to a needle point and are about 2'' long, though and sharp, with differing diameters and are disposed of after a single use. Great for reaming holes in mimi Blocks, and if you are brave, they work in a Dremil tool chuck. A further question is how best to run rigging lines thru blocks that are mounted on various locations on a model, deck, railing, mast fittings that are almost inaccessible? A timely question for my current stage of build. Bridgman bob
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Correct Glue
bridgman replied to Blacklab's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Browsing the local [an hour away] Hobby Lobby store noticed that they carry BSI CA and Testors paints, both enamel, acrylic and spry cans. An unexpected surprise and convient source. Bridgman Bob -
48th Scale imperial rulers. Where?
bridgman replied to John Murray's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Curious about the accuracy of my HP Envy printer, printed the attachment and was surprised the print to be dead on for all scales without any adjustment. The pdf could be used as a calibration monitoring means for a printer. Also convenient comparison between the various scales. As an alternate suggestion, print it out on a suitable transparent media and protect the printed surface. Much easier to take dimensions off a drawing using a transparent scale. Now where do I save this file,? Thank you Mark Bridgman Bob -
Small diameter gears
bridgman replied to bridgman's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Wefalck: Found some gears of the right diameter, "jewelry making gears", but as you noted thin. Will stick two together and see how they look mounted on the winch frame. Their profiles are good machine representations. Much less frustrating than my attempts to form gear profiles. The joys of 1:50 scale. Thanks for the suggestions. -
Small diameter gears
bridgman replied to bridgman's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Keith: Thanks for the heads up, memory jog for the steam punk "stuff". Should make fabrication much easier! How are things in Michigan? Bridgman Bob -
Attempting to model deck mounted manual center board winch, 1:50 scale, that consists of two gears, 1/4" and 1/2". Design of winch is ca 1885 and is patterned from photos of original vessel. Have no access to metal working tools, and fabricating them from wood results in less than satisfactory , if any results. Gears can be of any material or color as size is important. Any suggestions are welcomed. Bridgan Bob
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Kurt: Have Microlux saw by Micro Mark {doll house saw} its slot measeurs 0.320" deep,and 0.110" wide. Not sure of the preciseness of the machining. Exchanged an extra slot guide from another Micromark attachment with the one on NRG strip jig and it seems to work fine. Thanks for the follow up. Bridgman Bob
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A readers quick tip in the March/April, 2022, Fine Woodworking magazine suggests using UV light to detect misplaced glue smudges, including Titebound, before finishing. It appears some glues are made to glow,from UV light and therefore detectable. A UV flashlight seems to be sufficient. Have not tried it, seems simple. Bridgman Bob
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Another simplistic solution is to construct a dust collection system using a small box window fan and a furnace filter. Find a window fan bout 24" square and a high efficient furnace filter of the same dimensions, tape the filter to the inlet side of the fan all around the filter. Place the fan adjacent to your work area and run at the appropriate speed. Look for the quietest running fan. Several years ago, Wood magazine was evaluating dust reduction equipment for wood working shops and assembled the above contraption for comparison and found it to be 98% as effective as the factory made equipment. Bridgman Bob
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Digital compass / dividers?
bridgman replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thank you Mark and Bob for your replies. I had these dividers for many years, but never able to sort out their full capabilities other than simple proportions. Even found instructions for the same model to perform speed time navigational calculations though I'm long beyond needing that function. Bob, if convenient, could you forward a clearer copy of those instructions as the table on the bottom half is difficult to make out. Thanks again Bob -
Digital compass / dividers?
bridgman replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Does anyone have a source for instructions for the proper use of proportional dividers? Google search returns use for art work proportions and not much else. Have pair of old Weems navigation dividers from Air Force navigation brother identical to those shown in Bob Cleek's photo. Has markins use on maps different scales and straight proportions. No instructions otherwise. Thanks, Bridgman Bob
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