hornet
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I hold this size block in a fly tying vice, ream the hole out slightly with a very fine drill bit then use a doubled over very fine piece of copper wire taken from the core of a piece of electrical wire. BTW an upturned glass jar (with concave base) makes a good receptacle for a few drops of CA glue.
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Straightening thin brass wire
hornet replied to vossy's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Thin brass rod from 1mm and upward in diameter is available on EBay. I’ve found it to be useful for a variety of applications. Usually comes in a pack of 5 & lengths of 300mm -
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If you line the jar with sandpaper you may find the job takes much less time.
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Building the PVC tumbler was a bit of work Y.T. but it was a fun project and gave me a sense of achievement (not dissimilar to building a model). I have to agree with Mark though, the inflexible blades on a food mixer may be a little harsh for the job. You might like to consider making a whole new sandpaper ‘impeller’ to replace the blades on the spline completely or cut the blades off the attachment and replace with something more flexible. Post your endeavours as I would be interested to see the results.
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I use the variable speed control from my Domanoff serving machine ( which I also use on my home made rope making machine) I experimented with different grit sandpaper in the tumbler and ended up deciding on 180 grit. I tumble them for a couple of minutes but because I use the variable speed control the number of revolutions in the tumbler depends (obviously) on the motor speed - not too fast, not too slow. I check the blocks as I go. Another pic of tumbler and some tumbled blocks below.
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Just spent the day putting together a block tumbler using PVC pipe and end caps. Had to cut the end caps down a bit but it works well. The whole thing comes apart by taking one nylex nut from the end of the shaft. Bearings were obtained very cheaply on EBay. Added a small 12 volt motor and now I can tumble a handful of blocks very quickly. Cheers Steve.
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I have successfully used two part epoxy designed for epoxying fishing rod guides in place. Glue your timber frames in place then back the window frame with a piece of flat plastic or the paper used for baking. Mix the two part epoxy then apply it to the windows with a matchstick. Remove backing plastic/ paper when dry. It takes 24 hours to dry but dries clear and often has a slight concave or convex appearance which looks great for ship windows. Most fishing tackle shops sell the epoxy or it can be purchased online.
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With that coppery looking finish it is hard to say but I doubt it unless you removed the finish, then it might work. To be honest, in this case, I’d probably paint with a Matt (metal) black paint. I have used Admiralty Paints by jokita for this purpose with excellent results. You could buy some Birchwood Casey and experiment. It is good stuff to have anyway.
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Depends on what the cannons are made from. If brass, use Birchwood Casey Brass Black. If it is Brittania metal it may still blacken with Birchwood Casey depending on the compound of the metal - it is usually copper/tin/antimony. If Birchwood Casey doesnt work you may have to paint. Admiralty Paints produce an excellent and realistic black metal paint. Birchwood Casey can be bought on eBay.
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Newbie with a few tool questions....
hornet replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I’d probably add a keel clamp of some sort to your list. Check out the thread above for one that I made cheaply and have used on 10 builds. -
I have recessed a set of these into a piece of timber. Covers most sizes of dowel I use. Push dowel into recess, centre marked, job done. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8Pcs-Dowel-Drill-Centre-Points-Pin-Wood-6mm-8mm-10mm-12mm-Dowel-Tenon-Center-Set-/351989788914
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Lots of great ideas here.
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Hull filler.
hornet replied to bluenose2's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I have found that if you are careful about hull shaping as you apply the first layer of planking, packing out/ trimming planks as you go, there is very little need for filler of any sort. If you are concerned about small gaps you can make a wood dust & PVC paste to fill them. I you are concerned about planks drying out and cracks appearing you can use bandage gauze and PVC - a bit like fibreglassing on the inside of the hull. -
Anyone using electric plank bender?
hornet replied to MESSIS's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The beauty of the aeropiccola bender is the spring loaded roller attachment. It allows you much more control of the bend. I normally use mine while the handle is clamped in a vice. This allows me both hands to work the plank. You could do the same with this bender. -
Anyone using electric plank bender?
hornet replied to MESSIS's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
These are the bees knee. Not sold any more. I have had one for over 30 years. If you can find one second hand, snap it up!
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