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About hornet

  • Birthday 03/27/1959

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Newcastle, NSW Australia
  • Interests
    Fishing, golf, tinkering in the shed

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  1. Larry Leno cogs are marked z24. Diameter 25mm. Wheels (pulleys) on trolly are marked 1-05. 30mm diameter.
  2. I hold this size block in a fly tying vice, ream the hole out slightly with a very fine drill bit then use a doubled over very fine piece of copper wire taken from the core of a piece of electrical wire. BTW an upturned glass jar (with concave base) makes a good receptacle for a few drops of CA glue.
  3. Thin brass rod from 1mm and upward in diameter is available on EBay. I’ve found it to be useful for a variety of applications. Usually comes in a pack of 5 & lengths of 300mm
  4. Building the PVC tumbler was a bit of work Y.T. but it was a fun project and gave me a sense of achievement (not dissimilar to building a model). I have to agree with Mark though, the inflexible blades on a food mixer may be a little harsh for the job. You might like to consider making a whole new sandpaper ‘impeller’ to replace the blades on the spline completely or cut the blades off the attachment and replace with something more flexible. Post your endeavours as I would be interested to see the results.
  5. I use the variable speed control from my Domanoff serving machine ( which I also use on my home made rope making machine) I experimented with different grit sandpaper in the tumbler and ended up deciding on 180 grit. I tumble them for a couple of minutes but because I use the variable speed control the number of revolutions in the tumbler depends (obviously) on the motor speed - not too fast, not too slow. I check the blocks as I go. Another pic of tumbler and some tumbled blocks below.
  6. Just spent the day putting together a block tumbler using PVC pipe and end caps. Had to cut the end caps down a bit but it works well. The whole thing comes apart by taking one nylex nut from the end of the shaft. Bearings were obtained very cheaply on EBay. Added a small 12 volt motor and now I can tumble a handful of blocks very quickly. Cheers Steve.
  7. I’d probably add a keel clamp of some sort to your list. Check out the thread above for one that I made cheaply and have used on 10 builds.
  8. I have recessed a set of these into a piece of timber. Covers most sizes of dowel I use. Push dowel into recess, centre marked, job done. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8Pcs-Dowel-Drill-Centre-Points-Pin-Wood-6mm-8mm-10mm-12mm-Dowel-Tenon-Center-Set-/351989788914
  9. I have found that if you are careful about hull shaping as you apply the first layer of planking, packing out/ trimming planks as you go, there is very little need for filler of any sort. If you are concerned about small gaps you can make a wood dust & PVC paste to fill them. I you are concerned about planks drying out and cracks appearing you can use bandage gauze and PVC - a bit like fibreglassing on the inside of the hull.
  10. The beauty of the aeropiccola bender is the spring loaded roller attachment. It allows you much more control of the bend. I normally use mine while the handle is clamped in a vice. This allows me both hands to work the plank. You could do the same with this bender.
  11. These are the bees knee. Not sold any more. I have had one for over 30 years. If you can find one second hand, snap it up!
  12. For anyone who may be interested, this book is available on Apple iBooks (in Australia at least) for 99c (down from about $14) Written by Daniel Bryce.
  13. You can cross the Nullabour in a couple of days if you put your foot down. My stepson lives at the Navel Base at Fremantle, south of Perth (he is a submariner) and he has driven home ( to Newcastle) a few times. We will probably do it a bit slower (4-5 days) and take in the sites.
  14. Na mate, The Don doesn’t own any tall buildings or golf courses in OZ, they are mostly owned by China. However if he is in the market, I could offer him a nice coat hanger style bridge in Sydney for a reasonable price. 😜
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