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About Amfibius

  • Birthday January 24

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    Melbourne, Australia

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  1. Those jokes above are terrible!! So here's my revenge:
  2. 1. The first deck is cut in half lengthways. You insert one half of the deck from the stern, and manouvre it into place. Then you insert the second half. 2. No you don't.
  3. Keep at it. And make sure you look at other RW build logs. I didn't have much to look at when I started my build, but now there seems to be enough information on this site to help you along. Let us know if you need any help.
  4. Fantastic! I'll be following this build. Hopefully i'll finish my build before you, given my 3 year head start
  5. Amazing! I only managed to browse through a few pages, but I will definitely look at the rest when I have some time later.
  6. I agree with Steve, she doesn't look complete without the upper mast. Good on you for working through chemo.
  7. Greg, dry brush picks up raised areas, so it is used for highlights. Therefore it should be a light colour. Washes sink into recessed areas. They are for shadows, therefore it should be a dark colour. Personally I would mix some gold in with black and make a wash with that. I have found that a straight black wash onto a light coloured surface tends to leave water droplet marks as it dries.
  8. Bligh's journal in book form - not sure. Quite a few books do reference what he did after the mutiny though. He ended up as the first governor of New South Wales in Australia. Best kit for the long boat would be the Model Shipways kit. I did a brief discussion on the accuracy of the kit in my Bounty Launch build log (click the link in my signature).
  9. Mark, when it comes time for me to do my stern, I am planning to use a plastic modeller's trick and apply a thin black wash to the carvings. This creates an illusion of depth in modelling scales. Have you considered this?
  10. I am using SMD (Surface Mount Device) LED's, which I bought from a local hobby shop (Brunel Hobbies - http://www.brunelhobbies.com.au/LED/LED-SMD-Light.htm). AUD$8.25 for a pack of five. These SMD LED's have been pre-soldered onto very thin wire, with an integrated resistor. All you need to do is connect it to a 6V power source and it lights up. Take a look at my Royal William build thread for examples. The advantage of SMD LED's is that they are MINISCULE, smaller than a grain of rice. They also generate almost no heat, and they are adequately bright. I am using yellow SMD LED's in my build, and I think it looks great. If you want to look for these lights locally, try a hobby shop that specializes in trains. These lights are typically used on model railroads.
  11. And a few more of my mildly amusing pictures.

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

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