Keith_W

Beautiful ship, Alex. So good to see her finished. She truly is museum quality. 

All right, all right. I'll confess. I have been a little lazy. I might think to myself ... "Hmm, I should really be working on this ship". Then a friend calls me up and asks if I am free for golf. "HECK YES!!" and i'm off to golf  

So sorry guys, i'll get back to it. 

Congratulations, DORIS. Your model is a real stunner. Like I said many pages back - I have seen many Royal Carolines, but yours is the most Royal of them all. Until I saw your model, it was my intention to build a RC. Not any more - I can't possibly do a better job than you, and I doubt if many people on this website (which is already full of talented people!) would be able to do it either. 

Hi Dirk, welcome to the club. Funnily enough, my Drakkar was built in Melbourne and ended up in WA. Albany, to be precise. Gave it to my friend as a gift, and he decided to put it in his holiday home! 

I am intrigued by this Krylon stuff, so I googled it. At the moment I use Vallejo gold with satisfactory results, but it is nowhere near as fine grained as Krylon appears to be. You can still see flecks of gold with the Vallejo paint, whereas Krylon painted models (on Google, at least) look as if it has been electroplated. Does anyone have any links for further info? How do you use it? 

I recommend you read this thread that I started more than a year ago. I asked the exact same question as you. 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5107-which-is-the-best-victory/

Answer: Caldercraft if you want it now and want 1/72. Amati if you don't mind waiting and don't mind a massive model (1/64)!

That sounds superb! Start your build log now and show us some unboxing photos! 

Can't say i'm very interested in the subject, but this bodes well for future releases. I'm waiting for the Victory.

Great work, Jerry. Followed it from start to finish. Thanks for sharing  

I feel your pain, JP. 

Vince, this is the order that I did it. 

1. Mark in pencil the line of the wales, and where you think the parts 54 and 55 should sit on your ship. Take note in particular of where parts 54 and 55 terminate with relation to the gunports, AND the correct inclination of the transom (remember, these follow the curve of the wales!). 

2. Cut the inside contour to fit the ship. Due to differences in planking between my ship and yours, you can not use the same dimensions that I came up with. Also note that adjustment in the future will be necessary after you fit the wales. 

3. Dry fit both parts 54 and 55 to ensure that the inside contour is correct. Drill two holes through both parts and secure with dowels to ensure a consistent reference. 

3. Mark the lower transom piece (part 55) with the correct lines for the OUTSIDE contour. The lower section is referenced against the mahogany ply piece (part 56), and the upper section against part 54. You SHOULD end up with a shape similar to what I obtained here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7195-hms-royal-william-by-keithw-euromodel-172/?p=285618(note that I have also taken reference off Pete's I-I from the Euromodel website, my piece looks a lot like his!). Carve it using whatever tools you have - if you don't own a disc sander as I do, I would suggest a Dremel for rough shaping followed by files and sandpaper. Make the piece oversize, so you can adjust the shape later. 

4. Mark the upper transom piece (part 54). The lower part is referenced against the transom piece below it (part 55). The upper half of this part is VITALLY IMPORTANT. It MUST follow the same curvature as all the decks above it, and project rearwards in a way that maintains a straight line when referenced against the line of the transom (I drew a straight line down from the poop, quarterdeck, etc). In my build, these do not yet exist (which allows me flexibility to adjust the length of these later). You have already built your poop deck, so you MUST reference against it. Now carve part 54. 

5. You will note from my log that both part 54 and 55 need to be curved with a deflection of 2mm in the center with respect to the sides. I found it impossible to bend these pieces, so I shimmed them. If you can't bend them, shim them. 

6. Using a photocopy of the metal decorations, adjust the concave feature on both parts 54 and 55 so that the metal pieces will fit later. 

7. Carve a channel to fit the metal decoration pieces (note that in my build, I replaced these with scratchbuilt decorations). 

8. Glue the lower transom (part 55) piece to the hull. Adjust the shape of the transom support (part 56) and glue that in place. Leave part 54 unglued until you decide on the shape of the deck above it. This will allow you to make final adjustments to its shape and inclination if necessary. 

Hey Vince, I must have made about 10 posts about the RW transom in my build log, with LOTS of photos along the way. Having completed the lower transom support pieces, I now know how they should be shaped. Let me know if you need help. 

Hi Vince, looks to me as if you're not planning to paint the lower hull white? 

My lower hull is painted white. Because of this ... it only took me 3 days to do all the treenails  

You might also be able to save yourself some time by drawing in where the side decorations and wales will be. Once you add these, any treenails under it will be hidden. 

Hey Mike, it's on post 166 in my build log: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7195-hms-royal-william-by-keithw-euromodel-172/?p=289290

If you have a table saw, making the gun carriages yourself is a cinch. 

Hi John, what awful news. I'm crossing my fingers for you buddy. 

Nice progress. I am not sure if Swiss Pear is a good idea if you are planning to make her R/C. Swiss Pear marks very easily. 

I wouldn't want to annoy him, Jerry. He will burn your house down, kill all the men, and take the women and children. 

Very neat, Vince. I like it. Good luck with the gunport lining, I can tell you it was a complete pain in the backside. 

Looking forward to following this one. It will not be easy, building it at 1:72 AND making it R/C! Good luck!

Hello Everyone,

My name is Jerry and I hav

... and you have clicked "submit" before you finished writing your post   

Looking forward to following your build. 

Thanks guys.  Will search for these loopers.

 

BTW, is there something amiss with the notification system -- regarding builds or threads we want to "follow?"  I've had no notices via email for weeks but when I look at My Content I find replies to lots of things I'm supposed to be following?  Also, the private email system seems not to be functioning either.  Any knowledge of those issues?

Take a look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9808-no-mails-for-me-robin-b/

I love what you are doing with your model, Ray. Rigging looks nice and neat. And the combination of painted and bare wood looks fantastic - I have always liked that look. It is for this reason I am steering away from the Agamemnon/Victory (too much paint hiding that lovely wood) and towards something like Diana. 

For a first build, you are doing exceptionally well. Not planning to paint her at all? 

Well, I was at the local Bunnings and saw this old man sitting outside collecting coins for ANZAC day. I dropped a note in his can. He said thank you and tried to give me a pin. I said, no - THANK YOU for all you've done for us. 

Whoops, seems as if you're having lots of trouble with those masts. I too have Chuck's hooks, they are so tiny that I can't thread them, even with my younger eyes.